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Triumph Don
11-28-2005, 08:09 PM
Just picked up an Ashly XR 1001 crossover for my 4343's. Have been using a JBL 5234 with "4343" card. Where should I set the Ashly? McIntosh 2125 on top and a Crown K1 on the bottom. All opinions welcome!

scott fitlin
11-28-2005, 08:12 PM
I would use the same crossover points as JBL used in their passive networks. Whatever the points are in the 4343 cards are the same points I would set the Ashly to!

Triumph Don
11-28-2005, 08:51 PM
Well thats the easy way to start, but I bought the 5234 used [from a forum member] and have no idea what the crossover points are! Also, I'm sure someone has some suggestions pertaining to the amps used. Ideas?

scott fitlin
11-28-2005, 09:27 PM
Im sure Widget or Lancer can tell you the correct crossover points to set for your speakers.

On the amps, what did you want to know? I think, as far as what you have, you got it right, K on the bottom, and Mc on the top. I have heard the K on full range, and dont like it in the mids and highs, but it does make decent bottom.

I am interested to hear your thoughts on the MC-2125 for the top, I bought one of those a while back, and have been considering using it in my system, on the top!

scott fitlin
11-28-2005, 09:35 PM
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/pro-speakers/1977-4343/page4.jpg

JBL list xover points as 300, 1250, and 9500Hz!

boputnam
11-28-2005, 09:45 PM
Hang on...

The 5234 is a two-way crossover, between the LF and the rest. The crossover point is something ~300Hz. Let me check...

In the meanwhile, I use the XR1001 on my 4345's crossing at 290Hz, and have adjusted the shape of the crossover zone ("Response") to taste, which for me is "-4 dB".

Mr. Widget
11-28-2005, 09:45 PM
I assume you are using the Ashly to bi-amp the speakers. Set it to 300Hz and set the "Response" knob to -6dB. Balance the lows and highs preferably with an RTA or SPL meter and then set the "response" knob to whatever sounds best by ear. Feel free to tweak all of your settings a bit as you listen to a wide variety of your favorite pieces of music.


Widget

boputnam
11-28-2005, 09:48 PM
Yea, exactly as recommended.

300Hz is the split between the woof and the mid-range. And, play with the "Response" setting to your taste...

Mr. Widget
11-28-2005, 09:49 PM
Hi Bo!

You weren't there a minute ago... the 300Hz and all of the settings are fairly loose. The -6dB setting to begin with is for maximally flat. As you pointed out, a bit higher or lower may be appropriate for taste, room, or the speakers themselves...

Are you still using the Ashly?


Widget

boputnam
11-28-2005, 09:53 PM
Hey, man...

Yea - doing dinner with a neighbor, shunning this crappy weather!

Yea - I do still use the Ashly on the home setup with the 4345's. I really like it's analogue warmth. I'm sure there are better, but have stopped "wanting". Got any ideas...? ;)

On the roadrack I've gone to the KT DN9848 which has really very good sound but is audibly not analogue... :o:, however, the imbedded powerful multiple parametric filters and time-delay controls are unbeatable, quite necessary and indispensible for the quirky venues I'm tossed into. Consider me the FOH Dwarf... :rotfl:

Chas
11-29-2005, 08:15 AM
Speaking of Ashly's, I picked up a pair this year and was kinda bummed out when I discovered the outputs are NOT balanced. Now I can't bridge my stereo power amps with the xover anymore. :banghead:

boputnam
11-29-2005, 07:11 PM
Now I can't bridge my stereo power amps with the xover anymore.

Chas, dood, that post has confounded me all day. I'm not that clever about these things, but am certainly curious how / why you are doing that?

Having admitted my ignorance (above) I am now allowed to ask: Have you tried dropping Pin1 at the amp input(s)? That might obviate the problem(s)... But again, I am really lost in this... :spin:

Tom Loizeaux
11-29-2005, 08:19 PM
I believe JBL used a slightly different crossover points for the woofer and the top end on their card for the 4343. I heard that they wanted a slight dip at the crossover point to compensate for the response of the 2231 and the 2121 working together so the seperated the crossover points slightly.
I have used that set up, but have since moved to a Rane crossover at 24dB/ octave and use either 250 or 300 Hz. I never really A/B'd the two crossovers so I can't comment on the sonic differences.

Tom

Mr. Widget
11-29-2005, 09:07 PM
Chas, dood, that post has confounded me all day. Bo, what Chas is doing is using a balanced source (a balanced source has two hots for each channel that are out of phase) to drive the two inputs of a stereo amp and thus bridging it. This works with most Class AB amps but not all and will not work with a Class A amp.


Widget

boputnam
11-29-2005, 10:20 PM
Ah....

Thanks, Widget!

Chas
11-30-2005, 07:55 AM
Chas, dood, that post has confounded me all day. I'm not that clever about these things, but am certainly curious how / why you are doing that?

Having admitted my ignorance (above) I am now allowed to ask: Have you tried dropping Pin1 at the amp input(s)? That might obviate the problem(s)... But again, I am really lost in this... :spin:

Bo, with my previous crossover, for my subs I was using the two polarities of the balanced low pass outputs to drive two identical stereo amps effectively creating two mono blocks (i.e. bridged them) for added power. The Ashly has single ended (only one polarity) XLR outputs. Have a look at the schematic or look at their data sheet. The outputs are not typical true, dual polarity balanced outputs we are used to.

boputnam
11-30-2005, 08:06 AM
Yea, Chas - they are "quasi-balanced" (sez Ashly). I didn't understand their decision to go that way - most be a cost issue...?

Thanks.

Chas
11-30-2005, 11:27 AM
Yea, Chas - they are "quasi-balanced" (sez Ashly). I didn't understand their decision to go that way - most be a cost issue...?

Thanks.

Yup, must be. Hard to believe - chips are cheap! Even Behringer gives you REAL balanced outs. :p

boputnam
11-30-2005, 11:49 AM
:o: Doh! That hurts! :rotfl: