PDA

View Full Version : LE10H-1



saeman
08-26-2005, 08:14 AM
I've been combing thru old posts looking for specs on the LE10H-1 woofers and am coming up empty handed. I remember it being used in maybe the L96 but there is no flyer in the library for the L96. Does the LE10H-1 have a pro counterpart like the 2121H, etc. I'm trying to decide it's suitability as a mid-base on top of a 2231 or other similar 15" woof. Any help would be appreciated. Thanx - Rick

GordonW
08-26-2005, 08:54 AM
The 2121 and 2122 have less cone mass (and therefore, higher efficiency), than the LE10A/LE10H/LE10H-1/LE111. As such, the 2121 and 2122 are better matches, efficiency-wise, to a 2231 or 2235.

To get a LE10-based midbass system to "keep up" with a 2231 or 2235, you would likely need to use TWO of them in parallel. At that point, they should be close enough, sensitivity-wise, to work well.

Regards,
Gordon.

Earl K
08-26-2005, 09:02 AM
Hi


Any help would be appreciated.

Okay,

- Here are some old response studies for the 2122H & the le10h . These were originally posted , courtesy of Giskard .

- You can see the efficiency differences . The 2122h has a plus 93db sensitivity vs the le10h family which sits around 88/89 db . IMO ( as Gordon posted ), I think you might eventually "cook" a le10h before too long by mating it with a 2235H ( if asked to perform at a higher SPL level ) .

- Caveat : Now actually, I happen to really like the le10 as a mid-driver in my lower efficiency setup ( useful for apartment living ) / but I feel it needs to be somewhat babied. So, I feel it's better matched with lower effiency woofers, such as some le14 variant .

- Electrically, the 2122h & the le10h aren't interchangable .
- Sonically, they will be are different beasts with different voicings . For instance ; the 2122h will have more "snap".


I'm trying to decide it's ( le10h ) suitability as a mid-base on top of a 2231 or other similar 15" woof.

- If you don't want to use a 2122H for financial reasons then adapt the 2123H to suit your needs.
- Some other reasonable 10" mid choices are the 2012H or the 16ohm 2251J ( if you can find these ) .
- All these 10" mids have their own particular "voicing" and as such, each will require specific changes to a stock 4344 crossover .

:)

Earl K
08-26-2005, 09:29 AM
"What really is a 2122H ?" ( asked by Earl K )

It's an "improved" 2121/2121H as used in the venerable 4343/4343B. Think LE10H without aquaplas. The 2121 was essentially an LE10A without aquaplas, same inverted dome. No mass rings.

Different coil, 52 turns as opposed to the LE10H's 82 turns (early) and 86 turns (late).

Not weighted down to kill efficiency to match the 2235H/2245H but rather to smooth response and increase bandwidth. It's bandwidth is greater than the newer 2123H. It's smoother than the 2123H and goes lower but it can't handle the power and doesn't have the efficiency of the 2123H. The 2108/2108H is it's 8-inch cousin. Same magnetic assembly and 3-inch edgewound copper ribbon voice coil. Used in the 4315/4315B. Awesome midbass transducers.


- That's a Giskard response from an older thread .

saeman
08-26-2005, 09:33 AM
Gordon and Earl: I appreciate you guys chiming in and as usual, there's a wealth of info on the forum when someone needs help. Sounds like my pair of LE10H-1's will sit and wait for a more suitable application to come along. I hate seeing stuff just sitting on the shelf and was looking for a use, even if I had to design something around them. Since the most likely candidate for the low end would be the 2231/2235H I now know these are not the ticket.

Cost hasn't kept me from buying 2122H's (although if a pair comes along I suspect they'll be pricey). It's availability - I've never seen a pair for sale. If someone out there is sitting on half a dozen pairs, they're sitting on precious metal.

Thanks again for your input. Regards - Rick

Robh3606
08-26-2005, 10:03 AM
"Cost hasn't kept me from buying 2122H's (although if a pair comes along I suspect they'll be pricey). It's availability - I've never seen a pair for sale."

You could buy cores and drop in new cone kits.

:) Rob

saeman
08-26-2005, 10:20 AM
[QUOTE=Robh3606
You could buy cores and drop in new cone kits.
[/QUOTE]

Hi Rob: I haven't even seen a pair of cores (are you talking 2122H cores or another model that will accept the 2122H recone kit?). Would gladly go the recone route. Am I looking in the wrong place?? Ebay, Audiogon, Alice's Restaurant, etc. Am starting work on a pair of quasi 4344's and will be using 2123H's in place of 2122H's.....COZ..... the 2122H's just don't seem to be out there. Thanx - Rick

speakerdave
08-26-2005, 10:28 AM
I believe the 4344MKII uses the 2123.

The LE10 family of frames will take the 2122 kit.

David

saeman
08-26-2005, 11:20 AM
I believe the 4344MKII uses the 2123.

The LE10 family of frames will take the 2122 kit.

David

Dave: So I can take my LE10H-1's and instead of having them refoamed, I can have them reconed with 2122H kits. This is good news. Thanx

johnaec
08-26-2005, 11:36 AM
Also, the current 2012H has a response curve almost identical to the 2122H, at least below 1Khz. The 2012H appears to be somewhat more efficient, though...

John

Lancer
08-26-2005, 06:55 PM
The LE10H is the best of the bunch for SOTA home hi-fi. The aquaplas coating on the LE10H smooths response. I've biamped LE10H's to 2235H's and 2245H's for over 20 years in countless systems. It's a natural.

If you're building a 4344 or 4345 clone then get the LE10H reconed as a 2122H.

The LE10H as a midbass driver is similar in concept to the 108H in the 250Ti. The 108H is a 2118H with aquaplas applied. The LE10H never had a Pro designation, it was one of those drivers that kept the same model number regardless of Consumer or Pro application. The LE111H is an LE10H with the aluminum face painted black. The LE10H-1 is an LE10H with the white aquaplas on the front of the cone instead of the back of the cone.

saeman
08-26-2005, 08:02 PM
Lancer: Nice to hear from you on this topic. Yes - 4344's are the direction I'm going in; a project resurrected from HOLD recently. We've had some discussion on this before I believe. With 2122H's scarcer than scarce, I was looking at using a pair of 2123H's that I have and incorporating them into the system with appropriately designed x-overs.

From your previous comments it appears that you favor the 2122H over the 2123H in this system, regardless of x-over design. Is this right ???

It's my understanding from talking with a couple of other members, that reconing the 2122H is an expensive proposition with kit prices up at the high end. Please comment.

My JBL adventures to date have been stock configuration. This 4344 project is my first deviation into custom x-overs, etc. and I hope to not cut any corners or make any mistakes. I'd like this to be a reference pair of JBLs.

Thanx http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/smilies/bouncy.gif

Lancer
08-26-2005, 08:17 PM
Send me an email.

How did the other transducers some out?

GordonW
08-26-2005, 09:34 PM
I'd just be inclined, personally, to get a pair of 2123H or 2123J (and use a variant of the stock 4344 crossover), or a pair of 2012s (and build a more "custom" crossover, maybe like a hybrid of 4343 and 4344). You should be able to find 2123s fairly readily, and 2012s may show up here and there as well (as they're relatively current, read "in use all over")...

Speaking of 2118... I was tempted, a while back to construct a "super 250" kind of speaker... with a 2235H woofer, 2118H midbass, 104H-2 mid and 035Tia tweeter. Should have been able to squeeze a dB or so more efficiency out of it compared to a stock 250Ti. But, more pressing projects intervened... and the 2118s and 2235 that I had, all had to go out the door... :(

Regards,
Gordon.

Lancer
08-27-2005, 06:41 AM
Ok, use a 2123 instead. They are everywhere.

saeman
08-28-2005, 06:02 PM
I'd just be inclined, personally, to get a pair of 2123H or 2123J (and use a variant of the stock 4344 crossover),

Hi Gordon: I've spent some more time this weekend combing thru old posts relating to the 4344 project and it's components. I've gotta tell you that for a novice like me, there are a lot of clouds and variables that I don't have the background to understand. I did look at the JBL list of parts and recone kits and it appears that the 2122H recone kit is available. I am going to check for sure but if they are available, reconing the LE10H-1 pair with 2122H kits is the way I will go.

I talked with Giskard quite some time back about component configuration for the 4344 and he said hands down that the 2122H was the best choice. I can use the 2123H's to fill the baffle holes temporarily until I can locate 2122 kits and get the work done. Nothing goes to waste around here so I will eventually find a home for the 2123's.

Doing it this way the x-overs can be designed and built one time for the components that I will eventually have in the system. This seems to make the best sense to me. If I start out with the 2123 and then go to the 2122 the x-overs would have to be modified, and since I'm depending on the help of others to build these x-overs I don't want to confuse the issue for them or wear out the welcome mat.

Thanx for your comments. You have apparantly spent a lot of time researching these various components and have tested a lot of system combinations. Maybe in time I can get up to speed with some of you guys on the technical side of things.

Rick http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/smilies/smile.gif

saeman
08-29-2005, 02:17 PM
Send me an email.

Hi Lancer: I've tried to email you 3 different times but it appears that they may not be getting to you. Also I can not send you a PM thru the forum as this option does not appear by your name. Rick

Lancer
08-29-2005, 06:02 PM
Ok... I'll check all my email accounts...