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4313B
04-12-2005, 09:58 AM
There have been a few inquiries about biased 4406 networks.

I figured I'd post a few quick snapshots of my mini-monitors. They're fun.

New boxes for 18Ti components along with new boxes for their little 121A subs. There's a charge-coupled 4406 network in that 115H-1 hole. L-Pad knobs aren't installed until the boxes are finished. Piano black lacquer finish maybe.

Other stuff - tired L212, mainstay L96/4313B hybrid, 4435 components, LE14H-1. One project could be pairing the LE14H-1's up with the 2344A/2425H's in nice sized 3 cu ft boxes... :hmm: Maybe someday. 250XPL's and surround sound Ti Series are probably first.

Robh3606
04-12-2005, 10:05 AM
Nice show and tell!!! I like all those goodies!! I have 3 pairs of L20T'T3 floating around is it worth doing the CC for them??

Rob:)

4313B
04-12-2005, 10:19 AM
I want to say it ran me something like $100 a pair to do new biased filters (I didn't reuse any stock parts but could have).

You know how everyone's own creations are... there is a built-in bias (no pun intended) and unless they really stink... :p I had to have some guys and gals listen to them that couldn't give a rat's ass about JBL and cared even less about biased anything, they just like good music, preferably live. We A/B'd stock 18Ti's and stock 4406's and the biased hybrids won hands down. It's like they're alive. Very nice for a "minimal" loudspeaker. It was worth it to me.

Robh3606
04-12-2005, 10:24 AM
Thanks!


I really like them. They really sound good as they are I will give it a try. Nice Sunday project:D

Rob:)

4313B
04-12-2005, 10:48 AM
They really sound good as they are.Yes, they certainly do.

spkrman57
04-12-2005, 11:01 AM
I remember some circuits(crossover) of bias(charged) that I seen on this forum somewhere in my researching. In some of them I noticed there were more than one set of caps to be biased in the same system. Will "one" battery work for that, and would it not introduce a way for the different crossover functions to affect each other??? Or did I not pay enough attention to them when saw them?

Ron

4313B
04-12-2005, 11:27 AM
The resistors between the capacitor pairs and the battery are 2 to 5 megohm. One battery for all the capacitors. One 3 megohm resistor for each capacitor pair.

In my pair I used Dayton Metallized Polypropylene mains and AudioCap Theta bypasses.

spkrman57
04-12-2005, 11:38 AM
Is there any special way to design a crossover using CC design?

I am thinking of 2226/2426/075 3-way supplemented with 2242 for bottom octave help.

Is there any threads already posted that would help me in designing such a crossover?

Thanks, Ron

4313B
04-12-2005, 11:44 AM
Nothing special. Just double the capacitor values of a "regular" network to get the biased pair. In the above schematic the two 6.0 uF = the stock 3.0 uF value, etc.

The battery should last for the length of it's shelf life.

spkrman57
04-12-2005, 11:54 AM
At the very least I should try and breadboard one to try out.

I am still at odds at what crossover to try with my 3-way (2226J/2426J/075). I have looked over all the schematics listed here and there on this forum and tried to compare to the models JBL put out over the years, but have yet to find something close.

It seems that I am trying to put a "dinasour" system together with modern technology!

Ron

Zilch
04-12-2005, 02:00 PM
If it's 2226H (you said J) or a pair of 2226J, I'd be starting with 3110 or 3110A (depending on the horn) and 3105.

Simpler approaches may be found in Cabaret and SR series.

johnaec
04-12-2005, 02:09 PM
Giskard - looking at that charged-coupled diagram, it looks like this eliminates the need for bypass caps? (I'm still trying to get a handle on what this stuff does and how it works...)

John

4313B
04-12-2005, 02:15 PM
It's supposed to eliminate the need for bypass caps. I didn't like the sound of the bare Dayton MP mains. I tried adding Dayton poly films and didn't like them either. The Audiocap poly films seemed to be the icing on the cake. Just my personal take on the matter.

If you go with Solen caps they are not supposed to need bypass caps.

spkrman57
04-13-2005, 06:44 AM
Would there be any difference in using a higher voltage source other than the 9 volt source?


Zilch: I have 2226J and 2426J plus the 075 which is 16 ohm or 8 ohm(I have read here they are same and treated as 10 ohm drivers).

I have 2226H, but it is set aside for a different system for me to play with.

I will have to check out the cabaret/SR systems for more reference.

Ron

Rusnzha
10-11-2005, 09:15 PM
Does anyone have a diagram for a biased crossover in an L100?

Uncle Paul
10-11-2005, 09:38 PM
http://jblproservice.com/pdf/Studio%20Monitor%20Series/4311B.pdf

C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground

Rusnzha
10-12-2005, 09:38 PM
C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground

Thanks for the info, it made my day. You made it so simple I can't help wondering why I didn't figure it out myself. I put bypass caps on them a while ago and was amazed with the improvement. I'm still trying to find out just how good these old JBLs can get.

Rusnzha
11-06-2005, 12:02 AM
Originally written by Uncle Paul

C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground

I got all the parts together and built them this weekend. I used Solen 16ufd and 6.2ufd main caps and bypassed them with AudioCap .01 ufd and 2.7 Megohm pull down resistors. I had to tweek the Lpads afterward due to some added brightness in the mids. Everything on them seemed to tighten up including the low end. I thought I was crazy since the low end goes straight through but a friend who was familiar with the L100 agreed that the bass tightened up. We did some more tweeking and wound up with the mids at -1/2 and the highs at 0. I turned my bass and treble up just a hair past flat. Damn, they sounded good! Now, they give my main system (6.1 surround with Studio Series 412s, 38s, Center and 2241H) a real run for the money on some things if you're not in the sweet spot.

Uncle Paul, thanks for making it simple. I wanted to do this for a while and you helped me get it worked out so I was comfortable to get the stuff and do it. I am enjoying my L100s more than ever.

Uncle Paul
11-06-2005, 01:42 AM
Happy to help and glad you got such pleasing results!

brettMc
06-01-2014, 10:47 AM
Happy to help and glad you got such pleasing results!


Hi all,

i posted to this forum back in 2012 my first post.

i just love my 4406's for me they perform better in my room than my 4312's.

i am dying to hear one you pros out there help take them to the next level. Please let me know if anyone is interested in helping me reach 4406 audio nirvana!

i reside in LA if that makes it any easier....

many thanks!

brett

Malefoda
08-03-2016, 01:49 PM
Both charge-coupled and bypassed, OEM PCB. Tiny MKPs from industry (Arcotronics) with some creative lead bending and voilą.
I feel it's like we've moved from a cheap, slow, boring and muddy CD player for a more alive-cleaner-detailled one without any harshness.
Had those cheap MKPs, dozens of K71-4 Polystyrene and L-pad resistors (Mills); to be honest can't tell the ratio on SQ improvement related to parts quality or CC...
In the end it sounds very good to me: very good these 4406!

About voltages regarding to 9V:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/204857-test-how-much-voltage-power-do-your-speakers-need.html

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