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Butch Adams
03-29-2005, 03:13 PM
My latest project was going to be a reproduction of the 4345's but, being married always keeps you open to new ideas. http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/smilies/banghead.gif
Does anyone have examples of speaker systems that look more like furniture, not boxes?

4313B
03-29-2005, 03:26 PM
Those exponentials had a lot of depth to contend with... they weren't an issue with the LF transducers that required the large enclosure volumes.

boputnam
03-29-2005, 03:58 PM
Does anyone have examples of speaker systems that look more like furniture...? But, the 4345's do look kinda like kitchen furniture - a modest sized freezerbox! :p

Butch Adams
03-29-2005, 04:26 PM
Ya that's what I got from Berta when I told her they would be 25% larger than the 4333's. The image was a real mood stopper.

Robh3606
03-29-2005, 04:31 PM
Hmm that's tuff with the box size required for the 2245. You could scale back a bit too the 4344 which will buy you back about 1/3 of the volume and very little if any real loss in performance. Even then you will want to keep ay least 4.5-5 for the 2235. I toyed with the idea of a basic lowend box with a seperate head section with the 2122,2425 2307 and 2405. You could disquise the lower volume using shape and depth and have a head assembly up top that could be almost anything you want provided you have enough baffle for the 2308 to load properly. I chickened out for simplicity reasons and went with the generic box. I was going to go something along the lines off my XPL's but was afraid I couldn't pull it off. You could make a striking head assembly if you have the skills.

Rob:)

Steve Gonzales
03-29-2005, 04:33 PM
Most large cities have a good way of dealing with the lack of space and that is to build UP!. A tower design is also very helpful in regards to speaker building. You can get great driver placement and a relatively small "footprint". Look at JBL pro designs; they use a tower design for a lot of the 47xx series and a Trapazoidal enclosure to help prevent backwave cancellation. I think if you used an L220/222 design and put a 10" driver for the lower mid-bass in place of the LE14 and used the 15" passive's hole for an active 2235h,136a, 2231a or h., you would have a wonderful 4 way. If you modified the dimentions to accomodate the use of a horn/compression driver in place of the LE5 as I have done, you could even use a large format driver of your choice. If I had the money and ability, I would build an enclosure with an 077/076 on top crossed at 5to 7k depending on which one, below that I would incorporate a 2397 with a 2441 or TAD 400X then a 2121,22 or 23 it's own sub enclosure, then a 2235H on the bottom. I would use a modified 4343 crossover too. I would style it after the L220 and veneer it in ROSEWOOD and use 1" MDF and brace it very heavily. I would have a dark JBL monitor blue grill cloth. I would have threaded inserts on the bottom for spiked feet or whatever type you need for your particular installation. you did not speak of a budget so, I am giving you my outline of a dream speaker. I hope this gives you fuel for thought. Good Luck and I hope you find what you need, Steve G

Butch Adams
03-29-2005, 05:03 PM
Sorry fellows, this might help.
Current component selection is 2-2242H's 2-le10A's 2-2426J's(on their way) and still needing 2-2405's or something like them for that spot.

I see what you're saying Steve, a satelite system of sorts. Does anyone have the construction details for the B460?

Steve Gonzales
03-29-2005, 05:07 PM
If you need 2405's, send me a PM and I'll hook you up. BTW, I don't think you are gonna get all those drivers in a single enclosure without creating a MONSTER. Westlake has done the best job of creating something in the same vein as you need and they look quite nice-Steve G

BTW 2--are you planning on two of EACH of those aforementioned drivers PER cab?--that is what I'm refering to as a monster

4313B
03-29-2005, 05:08 PM
The LE10A is all wrong for the rest of those components.

Butch Adams
03-29-2005, 05:19 PM
No, one each per side.
What would you suggest in place of the old LE?

4313B
03-29-2005, 05:20 PM
Anything newer in a 10" format - 2121, 2122, 2123, 2012
While the LE10A might mesh the best with the 2242H it won't have the efficiency or power handling of the rest of the system by a long shot. It would be a very weak link.

Butch Adams
03-29-2005, 05:41 PM
Thanks Guys,
Does anyone have pics of unusal system designs?

Mr. Widget
03-29-2005, 10:54 PM
Does anyone have pics of unusal system designs?

Sorry, but you did ask...

Mr. Widget
03-29-2005, 11:17 PM
Anything newer in a 10" format - 2121, 2122, 2123, 2012
While the LE10A might mesh the best with the 2242H it won't have the efficiency or power handling of the rest of the system by a long shot. It would be a very weak link.

If you are not after serious SPLs, you could try the LE10As. The nice thing about the LE10As is that they go low enough to use with a true sub. I would use them in 10" three-ways with the horn of your choice with added 2405s. You will be padding down the 2426 and 2405 quite a lot, but that is OK. You should have quite a lot of design freedom with this package.

I would use the 2242s as subs and actively cross them over to the three-ways at the frequency of your choice between 40Hz and 80Hz. I feel that for music systems 80Hz is frequently too high but that is room and system dependent.

Alternatively, if you own your home, how about building them into your walls? You could fit 4345s into the walls and they would be virtually invisible.

Widget

pangea
03-30-2005, 01:39 PM
I won't hesitate to recommend the design I used for my MTM hybrids.

I like them alot as is and I think they will be absolutely gorgeous when they are completed.

If you should choose this design, I should think, taking off an inch or so on the width would improve the design even more, as well as improving the WAF.

I would also be happy to share all my experiences from the building process.

They also sound great!:D

BR

Roland

GordonW
03-30-2005, 07:50 PM
If you are not after serious SPLs, you could try the LE10As. The nice thing about the LE10As is that they go low enough to use with a true sub. I would use them in 10" three-ways with the horn of your choice with added 2405s. You will be padding down the 2426 and 2405 quite a lot, but that is OK. You should have quite a lot of design freedom with this package.



Actually, you could make such a system, with TWO LE10As per side, in parallel. This would gain you close to 6 dB more "sensitivity", as far as matching in the network with the 2426 and 2405.

If I was doing this, I'd run the two LE10As in a SEALED box, of between 2.5 and 3 cubic feet total (1.25 to 1.5 cubic feet per LE10A), filled loosely with fiberglass. This would give an f3 of between 55 and 60 Hz, with FULL ACOUSTIC POWER HANDLING down to right about 60 Hz. This would be an ideal crossover point, to hand off to the 2242 subwoofers.

I'd say, with a 3 cubic foot airspace inside, an enclosure height of between 36 and 48 inches would be pretty easily do-able. The width of the enclosure would be completely determined by the width of the horn flare; it could be a reasonably "svelte" enclosure, with the choice of the right flare.

The nice thing about having the LE10A's in a sealed box, is that it is MUCH EASIER to integrate a sealed cabinet with a subwoofer, than a ported cabinet. You can use a Butterworth second order highpass electronic crossover, set at about 60 Hz, and wind up with just about a textbook-perfect 4th order LR highpass acoustic response for the main speakers. Simply use a 4th order LR lowpass at 60 Hz or so, to the subwoofer, and you should have pretty much taken care of crossovers.

Though, with a crossover point this low, you can "fiddle around" with "gapping" the crossovers (leaving a small region between where the lowpass rolls off the sub, and where the highpass rolls off the main cabinet, ie, "underlapping" the crossover points), to help "shelf" the subwoofer response (to make it effectively go lower in reach in its bottom end), or to help combat room boom modes (which frequently exist between 50 and 70 Hz in MANY rooms).

In all, I'd think it'd be quite an impressive system...

Regards,
Gordon.

pmakres1
03-30-2005, 08:39 PM
Thanks Guys,
Does anyone have pics of unusal system designs?

I've yet to run across any of my neighbors that own either one of these designs...:screwy: :screwy:

Robh3606
03-30-2005, 08:44 PM
The ones on the stands remind me of this from the "Christmas Story". Think I will go lick the pole.

Rob:)

pmakres1
03-30-2005, 08:49 PM
The ones on the stands remind me of this from the "Christmas Story". Think I will go lick the pole.

Rob:)

That's unusual...:yes:

Steve Gonzales
03-30-2005, 10:44 PM
Hey Peter, i hope she returns the favor :p