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View Full Version : Genuine 2344 or PAudio?



aust-ted
02-15-2005, 01:27 PM
I just bought this on eBay on a second chance offer http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5752337014&category=3276

The guy appears to have a good rep and it is described as a JBL 2344. Having never owned one of these I checked the pics against some I downloaded and became a bit confused. There are some pics of the 2344 & the PAudio from this forum but the it is not made clear which is which. Also I have pics of a 2344 which clearly show a bolted on throat. I suspect these are an earlier version of a 2344. Does that make my buy a 2344A?

TIA

Aust-ted

PS I would like to play around with one of these with a 2420, in place of a 2392 on a 4331A monitor. I assume the xover would need modding.

4313B
02-15-2005, 01:30 PM
I think the seller is Jim Henderson. If so, I'm not sure why he didn't post here first. It looks just like my 2344A's.

Just craft a 4430 network and go. These networks are cake to build. Do it now! - the Governator

Robh3606
02-15-2005, 01:37 PM
Looks like the real McCoy but can't hurt to ask. Ask if he has any frontal shots. The slot will be smaller/narrower than the 1" driver exit on the real deal.

Rob:)

Zilch
02-15-2005, 01:43 PM
That be 2344A. The earlier 2344 has a bolt-on throat adapter, which does not always align perfectly, though some want the versatility they afford.

You did good. 2420 will bolt right on, though bolting is a little tight. You have to put the bolt that goes into the flange slot on the driver first, then slide the horn slot under it. I've found hex cap screws the easiest, as there's precious little room for a wrench, and use washers underneath to protect the flange....

aust-ted
02-15-2005, 01:53 PM
Thanks guys

Must be the real thing then. The pic I downloaded of a 2344 and a PAudio from the forum some time ago shows clear differences from the rear view.

Can't wait to when it arrives.

Regards
Aust-ted

Zilch
02-15-2005, 02:16 PM
Here's them pics. 2344 first, then 2344A twice. Note in last pic how horn taper interferes with the bottom flange slot bolt. You almost have to use a hex bolt in that position (so you can get a wrench on it to tighten after installing the horn), but I've found hex cap screws (button-heads shown here) work better for the others.

Governator gonna start a "Build a 4430 crossover, step-by-step" thread soon? :p

aust-ted
02-15-2005, 03:15 PM
Zilch

Thanks for the tip and pics. That probably explains why JBL uses a slot rather than a hole for the third bolt on the 2344A. Found a lot worse on car repairs.

Regards
Ted