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PSS AUDIO
07-04-2003, 04:00 AM
Hello to all of you,

I had the idea, and I am not the only one who began a thread for a distinct product, that we could begin a thread for each significant items thus everybody can pick up in it all information he needs!

If the principle of several threads is accepted, then let the talk begin...

If open this thread as I owe, as a lot of very happy owners - I hope so, 4350 speakers (they are in fact slightly modified, it is a melting pot of 4350 and 4355).

PSS AUDIO
07-08-2003, 12:40 AM
Is my attempt void to death?

I hope not!

To begin with, please read how I modified, if I can say so, my 4350 speakers:

Original 4350 cabinet
One 2231H basket with a 2231 cone,
One 2231H basket with a 2235 cone,
One 2202H,
One 2441 with 2308 horn,
One 2405.

I do not bi-amp this speaker as I use a 12 dB 250Hz Low Pass and High Pass crossover.

I wired it on a glass epoxy printed circuit boards with tracks of almost 100 microns, air coils have a section of 1,4 mm and polypropylene condensers that are known for their unequalled sonority.

About the typo error about the volume of 4350/55 cabinets I measured the internal volume of the 4350 cabinet and the internal size is .8m x 1.17m x .42m = 437 litres, less 45 litres for the 2202H and perhaps 10 litres more for the horn, driver, 2405 and xover.

There is in fact 390/400 litres for two 2231H, i.e. 14 cu.ft for both drivers, if I am not mistaken.

rgrjit8
07-17-2003, 10:00 AM
Gee, this topic looks like it was made for me, so I'd better post something on it.

First, I still haven't swapped my high end drivers over to mirror image format. I got as far as taking out the woofers before I realized that I'd need more than a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to do the job.
I eventually went shopping for a socket set but all the ratchets were 8 or 9 inches long. I knew that wouldn't cut it what with the bracing, baffle and midbass compartment all in the way.
Sooooo.
Before I go tool shopping again, does anyone have any advice or tips on this procedure? (How to grow a tentacle would be especially useful!)

Next, I recall the power rating on my old L 166s as being 75 watts continuous, yet they were recommended for use with 200 wpc amps. They just laughed at all the clean power I could ever afford to give them.

So it makes me wonder......

The 4355s are rated at 150 on top and 300 on the bottom. Just how much power would it take to make them grunt?
Right now I have 250 on the bottom and can barely get the woofers to move before the room starts shaking so bad that it scares me. I haven't even tripped the soft clipping indicator on the amp at that level.

What a pair of speakers!:moon:

RohH, I want to acknowledge your emailing of the manual, it does indeed show me what to do, but I'm looking for further tips toolwise. I've lived here 10 years without needing a socket or wrench set, so when I buy one I want to get it right the first time.

PSS AUDIO
07-23-2003, 11:56 PM
Originally posted by rgrjit8
The 4355s are rated at 150 on top and 300 on the bottom. Just how much power would it take to make them grunt?
Right now I have 250 on the bottom and can barely get the woofers to move before the room starts shaking so bad that it scares me. I haven't even tripped the soft clipping indicator on the amp at that level.

What a pair of speakers

I do confirm that a single amplifier (I placed a 12 dB 250Hz passive crossover in the speaker) able to handle 2x300 Watts under 4 ohms is enough as in a 25 m² room it is impossible, unless you are completely crazy, to run a pair of 4350-55 at full power!

From my experience, if you need too much power to feel something more, it means that there is a lack of something or too much of something.

In a word, your amplifier is bad!

One can hardly imagine that with a well-balanced amplifier you must lower the output power …

But this is a debate about power amplifiers, nothing to do with this thread ...

Have a nice day

rgrjit8
07-24-2003, 04:57 AM
[
But this is a debate about power amplifiers, nothing to do with this thread ...

Have a nice day [/B]

Well excuse the hell outta me, I thought you'd be happy to see this thread get a little action!

PSS AUDIO
07-24-2003, 05:40 AM
Well excuse the hell outta me, I thought you'd be happy to see this thread get a little action!

I am very glad to see this thread with a little action on it as all 4350-55 owners.

Speaking about sound quality of an amplifier could perhaps be held on a "specific" thread?

What do you think about it, all of you?

Rhino
07-24-2003, 06:42 AM
Glad to see a thread on these speakers. Not enough info on them as there is so it would be great to get feedback from the owners. BTW, I am in the market for a set of mint 4355's if anyone knows of a pair that is available. I had 4350's years ago but had to sell when I downsized houses.
If anyone is interested, what I'm currently using now are 2 sets of JBL's: L-300's and S-22's powered by Mac 500 watt and Mac 300 watt amps respectively. While not sonically perfect I'm sure, this system does a good job with the 4 15's, 2 LE85's, 2 375's and the 4 slot tweeters. Oh and just as an experiment this weekend I'm going to add 2 Velodyne 18" subs to see (and feel) the difference.
Feel free to contact me if you want to sell a set of 4355's.

Rhino

rgrjit8
07-24-2003, 06:48 AM
Sigh...

I wasn't asking about sound quality, I was asking how much real world power the 4355 can actually handle.
I recalled my L- 166s being rated at 75 watts but were recommended for use with amps up to 200wpc.

Soooo. if the 4355s say 150 and 300 this means that an amp of how high a rating is recommended.?

I'm guessing amps capable of 300 and 600 watts respectively, but does anyone know for sure?

PSS AUDIO
07-24-2003, 06:57 AM
Originally posted by rgrjit8


I wasn't asking about sound quality .... I'm guessing amps capable of 300 and 600 watts respectively, but does anyone know for sure?

I seem to be misunderstood.

JBL says that the low can handle 300 Watts and high 150 watts. It means, still in theory that you can/must use an amplifier able to deliver such power.

I tried to explain that, in my case (I use the 4350 with a single amplifier as I placed a passive crossover), a 2x300 Watts is by far more enough.

The raw power of an amplifier means nothing as from my experience, when you have an amplifier unable to reproduce with high sound quality (there is no numbers able to let you know that) you will ask him more power just to feel or hear what you wish.

I like deep bass. With an amplifier that deliver aggressive mids, I will increase the sound level until I will hear the bass I am looking for and my ears will be tired as the mids are violent.

Once you have a well balanced amplifier you will lower it as you have a natural sound, and in my case, out of a 2x300W amplifier I pull perhaps nothing more than 10 Watts and it is from time to time too loud!

It is very difficult to explain and to understand, as you are not in live.

Mr. Widget
07-24-2003, 09:50 AM
Originally posted by rgrjit8
Sigh...

Soooo. if the 4355s say 150 and 300 this means that an amp of how high a rating is recommended.?

I'm guessing amps capable of 300 and 600 watts respectively, but does anyone know for sure?

Those figures are simple guidelines.

Essentially all speakers should be powered by the most powerful amp of the quality level that you can afford. Obviously in a tri-amped system for home use a 500 watt amp used on the tweeter would be a bit of over kill, but essentially, you will never damage a speaker with an amplifier capable of delivering too much power as long as you don't push the speakers into distortion. You are much more likely to destroy a speaker with a 100 watt amp driven past its limits.

That said I use the low end section of my 4355 clones for my home theater powered by a 600+ wpc amp and for stereo listening I listen to them with a 350 wpc amp. In the home theater setup I have seen the clip indicators flash with no ill effects. Recently I watched Fightclub at THX reference level and during the mid air collision the woofers bottomed out with a very loud smack! The amp had not clipped, it was simply that the sound track has some very low frequency info at a very high level. My woofers are tuned to 29Hz. A powerful signal below that will cause them to unload and smack! A more powerful or less powerful amp would make no difference. Obviously if I were trying to play the speakers at that SPL with a 40 wpc amp the amp would have crapped out and clipped hard. That would be worse.

For the record the four 2235Hs didn't seem the least bit phased by exceeding their XMax. I consider the mass ring as providing an auditory alert to pull back on the overall system SPL during those events. An alternative would be to add a high pass filter. Actually this was the first sound track with a very low frequency sound at a high enough level to cause this problem. I have played concert DVDs at THX +10dB and it sounds great. Obviously those mid air collisions are real killers.

Robh3606
07-24-2003, 10:11 AM
"Recently I watched Fightclub at THX reference level and during the mid air collision the woofers bottomed out with a very loud smack! The amp had not clipped, it was simply that the sound track has some very low frequency info at a very high level."

My goodness how big is your room?? How far away are you?? WOW I am surprised you bottomed them. Must be some low stuff in there. Do you have a high pass filter in place. I end up with 3 of them all on top of each other. One in the 539 EQ one in the M552 crossover and a third in the subwoofer plate amp. So I don't have anything below 20Hz into the subs and they probably have some attenuation above that. All 3 are built in and only the Urie and Plate amp are selectable frequency wise. All are set for 20Hz or lower. I can crank the new Telarc Cannons on SACD and not bottom no doubt due to the fact that I have a brick wall down low. I am sure I am missing some impact but you can't have everything!

Rob:)

Mr. Widget
07-24-2003, 10:33 AM
It is a fairly large room, approximately 24' by 26' by 10'. The viewing/listening distance is about 15'. To be fair, the sound is quite literally stunning. Upstairs the house shudders as though actual ordinance has gone off down in the theater room.

No I do not have any filters in the system, so if 6Hz is present, the speakers try to reproduce it. Typically there is no problem with this setup. Most action movies that are filled with gobs of gratuitous explosions sound great since they obviously filter the infrasonics.

The funny thing is over all the system doesn't sound that loud. This is probably due to the very low distortion inherent in the main speakers (Meyer UPA 1 clones) as well as the bottom end of the 4355s.

Alex Lancaster
07-24-2003, 01:36 PM
I built 4350/5's years ago, and always liked them, for me the 2235's are better, specially than the 2231 alnico´s, the 16Hz Fs does not tell all the story, look at the response curves; at the time, I had access to the then current blueprints and components, and now You can get the 3107 x-overs at the JBL tent sale, I saw somebody trying to auction some in eBay for $90 + shipping, they are $77 delivered.

Current system per side:

above 80Hz

2405H w 1 micro f cap, have tried mylar and poly, cannot hear a difference.
2425J w 3110 x-over 2312 horns, 2308 lenses.
2220H

below 80Hz

1 ea SP120PII subs

Sony N80ES amp
" 2000ES pre
" ES CD
various turntables, I am waiting for a Shure V15-V cart. ($)
DENON 30W amp and small speakers for rear surround.

It is good, but the system "in progress" is per side:

2405H
2445J with almost hand made horns and 2308 lenses
2202H
2-2245H driven by crown K2 amp in 560L enclosures.
3107 x-over

Sony N80ES in mono.
M553 x-over or 5234

the K2 has a built in 8Hz filter, so for TELARC's 1812, it will be that.

For my deranged xtreme audiophile friends (check aca.gr on the net), who maintain the "sweetness" of tubes, I've told them to smear some grape (or Your favorite) jelly on their direct-to-disc LP´s.

Thanks for all suggestions, it is a lot of fun.

I am getting together 4 blown 2241H's and recone them as 2245H, If I can't get the flat wire, I´ll make it.

Earl K
07-24-2003, 03:48 PM
I am getting together 4 blown 2241H's and recone them as 2245H,

Alex, you should read the posted info about the expected lack of success in reconing a 2241 to a 2245 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=313&highlight=2245+and+recone) and the better (successful) way to go (reconing a 2240 / E155 into a 2245h (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=72&highlight=2245+and+recone))

regards <> Earl K :)

Alex Lancaster
07-24-2003, 04:20 PM
Earl, I did read it, excellent; Already have 3 blown 2241's with a customs broker in Laredo, TX, waiting for more non Hi-Fi merchandise, CAT and Komatsu parts for my business, to make up a load.

When I get done with them, I know the end product, will be a bit of a bastard, like putting JBL diaphs into Altec drivers, which I have done with D16R2425's, I´ll let You know.

Thanks: Alex

boputnam
07-24-2003, 08:56 PM
"No I do not have any filters in the system"

Me neither, Mr. Widget. The QSC's have a DIP for a 30Hz roll-off, but somewhere in fine-print I'm sure it sez:

"...users of the 4343, 4345, 4350, or 4355 series shall leave this in the OUT position." :D

boputnam
07-25-2003, 07:32 AM
"I popped on a 20 Hz filter in irritation"

Define "popped", and what is the filter comprised of? :banghead:

I agree on the need for a low-cut filter, but the minimum 30Hz on the QSC's was simply too high for the 2245H's, so I have been deliberately stingy on gain.

I've got a Rane DEQ60 en route that will provide a selectable low-cut filter (15Hz - 240Hz) and make moot this question, but still curious... :hmm:

boputnam
07-25-2003, 09:48 AM
"I flipped the DIP switch in the 5234A"

That's what I thought, but wondered if there was something else you've utilized. I wish those DIP switches were more accessible - de-racking and opening the 5234A is tedious.

Now, another question? :yes: ??

You've elsewhere (a pm?? :hmm: ...) mentioned you preferred crossover from the 2245H at ~100Hz, versus the 290Hz imbedded in the 5234A w/ 51-5145 card. How? (Maybe you're not using the 51-5145...).

Mr. Widget
07-25-2003, 09:50 AM
In the dark recesses of my often foggy brain I remember a discussion of in-line high pass filters. I suppose a 20Hz filter would be worth giving a listen. Can someone recommend a good in-line filter?

Another solution would be to add four more 2235s... ok well then there is turning down the volume 2-3dB...

boputnam
07-25-2003, 09:59 AM
"I used the 20 Hz high pass function of the 5234A/5235"

I assumed, but shouldn't have, that you used Q = 0.707 (i.e., "flat") and not Q = 2. Correct, Giskard?

Sorry to be so pedantic... :banghead:

IDF
07-25-2003, 12:48 PM
Originally posted by PSS AUDIO
I seem to be misunderstood.

JBL says that the low can handle 300 Watts and high 150 watts. It means, still in theory that you can/must use an amplifier able to deliver such power.

I tried to explain that, in my case (I use the 4350 with a single amplifier as I placed a passive crossover), a 2x300 Watts is by far more enough.

The raw power of an amplifier means nothing as from my experience, when you have an amplifier unable to reproduce with high sound quality (there is no numbers able to let you know that) you will ask him more power just to feel or hear what you wish.

I like deep bass. With an amplifier that deliver aggressive mids, I will increase the sound level until I will hear the bass I am looking for and my ears will be tired as the mids are violent.

Once you have a well balanced amplifier you will lower it as you have a natural sound, and in my case, out of a 2x300W amplifier I pull perhaps nothing more than 10 Watts and it is from time to time too loud!

It is very difficult to explain and to understand, as you are not in live.

boputnam
07-25-2003, 01:29 PM
Got it.

"The 112/2108, 2121, 2122, or 2202 are allowed to roll off naturally at 12 dB/octave in their little sealed enclosures..."

...gives me the floor to ask:

¿why was the dog-house not ported? Did you, or are you aware of, any testing where the dog-house was ducted? The dog house interior dimensions are 14.5" wide by 10" high by 6" deep - a very small volume for that transducer. The overall cabinet response curve reveals additional LF/MF isn't needed, but the 2122H seems to cover such a reduced range...

MikeM
07-25-2003, 08:41 PM
Originally posted by rgrjit8
Gee, this topic looks like it was made for me, so I'd better post something on it.

First, I still haven't swapped my high end drivers over to mirror image format. I got as far as taking out the woofers before I realized that I'd need more than a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to do the job.
I eventually went shopping for a socket set but all the ratchets were 8 or 9 inches long. I knew that wouldn't cut it what with the bracing, baffle and midbass compartment all in the way.
Sooooo.
Before I go tool shopping again, does anyone have any advice or tips on this procedure? (How to grow a tentacle would be especially useful!)

Next, I recall the power rating on my old L 166s as being 75 watts continuous, yet they were recommended for use with 200 wpc amps. They just laughed at all the clean power I could ever afford to give them.
Ive ran my 4350 / w 2235H woofs on 800 watt mono blocks and sometimes over drove them ( The Amps ) On the highs I used very high resolution tube amp. id say for the lows 500 a side for proper control and 60 a side tube top end will sound great!!

So it makes me wonder......

The 4355s are rated at 150 on top and 300 on the bottom. Just how much power would it take to make them grunt?
Right now I have 250 on the bottom and can barely get the woofers to move before the room starts shaking so bad that it scares me. I haven't even tripped the soft clipping indicator on the amp at that level.

What a pair of speakers!:moon:

RohH, I want to acknowledge your emailing of the manual, it does indeed show me what to do, but I'm looking for further tips toolwise. I've lived here 10 years without needing a socket or wrench set, so when I buy one I want to get it right the first time. :biting:

rgrjit8
07-26-2003, 04:22 AM
Sorry Mike, I've tried bragging to civilians (non-audiomaniacs) but they just don't get it.
We have to crow amongst ourselves.

PSS AUDIO
07-29-2003, 11:22 PM
Originally posted by PSS AUDIO
I do not bi-amp this speaker as I use a 12 dB 250Hz Low Pass and High Pass crossover.

I wired it on a glass epoxy printed circuit boards with tracks of almost 100 microns, air coils have a section of 1,4 mm and polypropylene condensers that are known for their unequalled sonority.

I hope this picture will please you!

I placed one low pass 250Hz 12 dB/oct. xover in the circuitry of each 2231 and a high pass 250Hz 12 dB/oct xover in the circuitry of the 3107!

And it sounds great with a single amplifier...

PSS AUDIO
07-31-2003, 11:32 AM
Listening conditions:

The room is quite small (20 square meter) but big enough to have a great pleasure out of the sound system.

Enjoy (I hope so) the pictures and please note that it is NOT a home theatre system despite the fact that there is a television in between the two speakers!

PSS AUDIO
07-31-2003, 11:33 AM
Listening conditions

The room is quite small (20 square meter) but big enough to have a great pleasure out of the sound system.

Enjoy (I hope so) the pictures and please note that it is NOT a home theatre system despite the fact that there is a television in between the two speakers!

Robh3606
07-31-2003, 03:23 PM
"please note that it is NOT a home theatre system'

And what's wrong with HT:bash: :p

Nice set-up. Most pictures I see seem to be floor mounted. Understandable with the size and weight. OK and the floor?? I always figured they would be soffit mounted by Hercules:eek: or on stands. You ever get them up off the floor??

Rob:)

boputnam
07-31-2003, 07:56 PM
"Enjoy (I hope so) the pictures and please note that it is NOT a home theatre system..." Me too, Rob!

That picture is worth a google of words - it's REAL clear what really matters! :D

Thanks for sharing!

Plus, now we all understand what "a melting pot of 4350/55's" really means...

PSS AUDIO
07-31-2003, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by boputnam
Plus, now we all understand what "a melting pot of 4350/55's" really means...

How can you know by the picture that it is a melting pot of 4350-55 as only the speakers placed in the cabinet is a melting pot as described at the beginning of the thread?

Unless I do not catch something...

PSS AUDIO
10-09-2003, 05:53 AM
Hi,

I have 2 LE15A and may have the opportunity having two others in mint condition.

Do you have any experience with Le15a in 4350/55 speakers instead of the original 2231/5?

I hope to read your opinion about it.

Mr. Widget
10-09-2003, 10:10 AM
I have used a pair of LE15As on each side in several systems. I hadn't completed my 4355 clones when I was using them. (Well they are still not finished aesthetically.)

I upgraded to the 2235Hs and sold off my LE15As. I like deep tight bass, the LE15As were quite rolled off below 40Hz. I find both woofers have very good transient response, and a powerful and tight low end sound quality that I like. I definitely prefer the deeper response of the 2235H.

If you really are listening to your 4350s shoe horned into the corners of that small room, you may want less low bass, but I am only guessing here. I obviously have not heard your room.

hosee
10-09-2003, 03:05 PM
I bought a pair of 4350s in 1973 ( I think), I still own them and only one speaker (tweeter) has been moved in the cabinet for better separation. I don't drive them very hard but use a alesis matica 900 to drive the woofers and a Hafler 500 to drive the rest. Seems to do ok but I still use a 15" JBL powered sub with them. I remember vividly at a friends house (who turned me on to the 4350s at the time) who had 2 pairs of 4350s (gray cabinets) in a 20 x 20 room and was playing around with some subsonic signals with an oscilloscope. You couldnt hear the sound but you could feel it. Around 1 or 2 in the morning (I was a lot younger) we went upstairs to the kitchen to get a cold coke and happened toobserve the ceiling and the sheet rock screws had backed out about 1/2 inch. We were both very surprised and he swore that they were not backed out before this session.
This same friend helped me build a center channel using a 2202, 375 and 2405 which is triamped. It sounds pretty good to me and very crisp. I don't have as much room in the present house but they still sound good. Between my speakers, my friend, and his brother in law, there are 4 pairs of 4350s and they all sound good in different settings.

PSS AUDIO
10-15-2003, 05:43 AM
What is the 0 dB setting for the 2405 as I have no plate on my 4350 speakers?

The potentiometer rotates from 5'oclock (minimum) to 2 o'clock (maximum) ...

boputnam
10-15-2003, 06:47 AM
Hey, Yuri...

I don't know if this will help, but here's the L-pad for the 4345, with that for the 2405 at the top:

PSS AUDIO
10-15-2003, 07:13 AM
Originally posted by boputnam
Hey, Yuri...

I don't know if this will help, but here's the L-pad for the 4345, with that for the 2405 at the top:

Hi,

In such a case it means that the 0 dB setting would be at 9 o'clock?

4313B
10-15-2003, 07:27 AM
Original 4350 foilcal

boputnam
10-15-2003, 07:37 AM
Originally posted by PSS AUDIO
In such a case it means that the 0 dB setting would be at 9 o'clock? Hey, Yuri...

Not exactly. Mount it so that mid-way is at 12:00 high - that is, if it's like the L-pad in the 4345.

Hey, Giskard - let us see the rest of the cabinet! What color are those compliance, anyway...? :hmm:

4313B
10-15-2003, 07:43 AM
"So, Giskard - let us see the rest of the cabinet! What color are those compliance, anyway...?"

They are that goofy beige colored chips-a-hoy crap :rotfl:

These pictures were taken from somewhere. I've long since forgotten where. Maybe they were on eBay? I'm sure someone else on the forum has them too.

boputnam
10-15-2003, 07:55 AM
Originally posted by Giskard
They are that goofy beige colored chips-a-hoy crap :rotfl: Ha! That, is a keeper!! :thmbsup:

Now what the heck did they do to mount the 2405? Ain't that a 2402 bracket there, on the outside? Whoa...

Robh3606
10-15-2003, 09:13 AM
Those pictures were from an Ebay auction. I grabed them too. Rare beast that they were.

Rob:)

Mr. Widget
10-15-2003, 09:59 AM
That pair was from e-bay. It was down the peninsula from me and I went and saw the speakers. I took a pile of photos of them myself and subsequently misplaced them.

The guy got around $5K for the pair, he told me he paid $1K and was just turning them over. I saw him before the auction ended, I am sure he was very pleased with the out come. They were really beautiful, chips-a-hoy and all.:D

soundhd
01-28-2004, 04:19 PM
Mine are pretty much "stock"...........had the 15's reconed when I first got the speakers, upgraded the speaker wiring and replaced the biding posts with modern hi-end gold plated connectors, and purchased a new pair of crossovers that JBL was selling a couple years ago in one of their wharehouse sales.............
It's like being in "Audo Heaven"............

boputnam
01-28-2004, 05:42 PM
Hey... :wave:

First, post some pics, OK...? That avatar's one heck of a tease... :scold:

And, if you've not, you might think about putting new diaphragms in those 2440's. I re-diaphragmed my 2421B's, and the improvements were audible. There are others here who have opined that diaphragms get either brittle, or fatigued, over time. We argue about which it is, but "strengths of materials" study suggests either-way, new ones are :thmbsup:.

soundhd
01-29-2004, 09:18 AM
Where do I post photos in this site? I have some photos on audiokarma.org but can find anywhere here to post any......
tried to put a link to those photos but it would not work when I tried it......

boputnam
01-29-2004, 09:30 AM
Originally posted by soundhd
Where do I post photos in this site? As funky as we are, you can post them right in these "Replies". See the "Attach File" window, below. There's further instructions under "Forum Issues".

soundhd
01-29-2004, 09:40 AM
OK, now I see it.............I'll see if I can get it to work...........
alas.............the "Hide-A-Way.............

boputnam
01-29-2004, 09:50 AM
I was just about to post your pics...

What are those 4350B's on-top of, anyway...? :hmm:

You must have some help slingin' them around!

soundhd
01-29-2004, 10:30 AM
They are sort of speaker stands (really a 2x4 framed box covered with oak plywood) on wheels............very helpful when I have to move them............

edgewound
06-08-2005, 10:59 AM
FYI....you CANNOT recone a 2241 with a 2245 recone kit....not a factory recone kit anyway. I'm sure it's possible to do something with aftermarket parts that are available...but then again it WON'T be a JBL product....I don't care what the "reconer" says. There is always someone out there who is willing to tell you what you want to hear and take your money to accomplish what you want to do...and think is possible. The fact is...ALL Genuine JBL Factory recone kits are preassembled cone/voicecoil/spider assemblies that are designed to fit specific frame/magnet assemblies. The ONLY Genuine JBL recone kit that will fit a 2241 frame is a 2241 kit in either 4 or 8 ohms. How do I know this? I am a JBL authorized recone technician since 1988....and I've seen lots of hack jobs that people actually charged money for!! You have to be careful what you buy...because some things are just not possible. Thanks for listening.

BTW...The previous posts are correct...2245, 2240, E155 frame/magnet assemblies are identical and can be reconed with 2245 recone kit.

boputnam
06-08-2005, 11:13 AM
I am getting together 4 blown 2241H's and recone them as 2245H, If I can't get the flat wire, I´ll make it.

Hey, Alex -

Giskard had posted this redirect, for you:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=313&highlight=2245+and+recone

And, edgewound, you might wanna "copy" your experienced perspective there, too!

Good to nail this question in the forehead. :banghead:

Alex Lancaster
06-08-2005, 05:17 PM
:) I finally got only 2 2241 baskets, so I used 2245 cones and surrounds, 2242 coils and spiders; I have these Frankenwoofers, but have not found the time to test them, will let You know.