Driver choice for 4641 cabinet - 2241H or 2242H or 2245H, what are the pros/cons?

[Cheapdrinks]

Hello everyone, I'm new here and I was told you guys are the best people to ask for advice. I've been given a JBL 4641 cabinet (8 cubic ft, single port tuned to 25hz I think) with no driver and am looking for advice on which woofer to choose. The stock driver is a 2241H however I was hoping to get some insight on some other possible choices before I make the purchase or if the original is the best option. I've searched through this forum and tried to read as many threads as possible but a lot of the information is in response to different cabinet sizes and some of it is beyond my technical understanding as i'm just a home audio enthusiast so I was hoping for some pretty basic advice.

Main usage will be for music with occasional home theatre use. I would prefer it to perform at it's best for music with less focus on it being able to reach as low as possible for movies however if there is one which strikes a good balance between the two that would also be worth consideration. I also wouldn't mind knowing for reference which one you would recommend for home theatre use just in-case I decide to go down that path however at this stage the plan is for it to go into my 2 channel music set up. I plan on powering it with a Behringer NU1000DSP which will hopefully handle the eq competently enough. Crossover will be handled by a minidsp to split it up from my preamp between my two power amps. The cabinet is also missing the binding posts so i'm going to install a neutrik speakon input to make connecting to the amp easier. After reading as many posts as I could I think i've narrowed down the best options to the 2241, the 2242 and the 2245. Which of these would you go for and are there any choices which I haven't come across yet worth considering?

One other thing I wanted to ask was about the dampening material used inside. The cabinet I have has had all of the felt/foam removed from the internal walls so I need to replace that too, what material is a good choice as i'm not sure what was originally in there.

Thanks very much for any help!

[sguttag]

If it were me, I'd use the 2242H (turns it into a 4645C). If you look up the cutsheets on both the 4641 and the 4645C you'll see the response differences. The 2242 handles more power than the 2241 too but that might be secondary for you in your application.

As for fiberglass. You don't need to go overboard with it. I honestly forget what surfaces of that box are covered (if any). If covered, it will be with 1". The box tuning frequency is 22Hz, as I recall.

[Mr. Widget]

If it were me, I'd use the 2242H...Since primary use is for music, I would use the 2245, unless very high playback levels are desired, the 2245 works well for HT use as well and just sounds better.


Widget

[HCSGuy]

2245 would be good, or take your time and find a 2243, which is a 2242 built for home use (goes lower, but doesn't play as loud and is 1db less efficient). There's a seller on Ebay with two 2243HPL's available, but he's in Cypress:( Good luck getting your money back when they arrive with cracked frames. The shipping also seems too cheap.

[gasfan]

2245 would be good, or take your time and find a 2243, which is a 2242 built for home use (goes lower, but doesn't play as loud and is 1db less efficient). There's a seller on Ebay with two 2243HPL's available, but he's in Cypress:( Good luck getting your money back when they arrive with cracked frames. The shipping also seems too cheap.Would a 2269 work?

[Cheapdrinks]

2245 would be good, or take your time and find a 2243

There's a guy in Germany selling 2 for 400 euro (https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/jbl-2243hpl-paar-/1066990952-172-5908), I wonder if he would sell one individually I might shoot him a message. Yeah i forgot to mention that high output levels are not really required, I live close to neighbours at the moment and rarely exceed 90db during my listening sessions, usually closer to 80. The consensus so far seems to be that the 2245 is a good choice for my needs, would the 2243 match it on musicality grounds but be also able to dip a bit lower at the expense of some efficiency?

[sguttag]

I have a B460 which uses the 2245 (part of my L250/B460 system)...it is a good driver but know that its foam surround WILL fail and there isn't a JBL recone kit for it anymore. You can refoam it.

I don't know if the port on the current box is right for the 2245 or not and have never put one in it nor measured it to comment.

The 2242 I've heard in it a LOT and it always performs. Have anyone of you that are recommending the 2245 used it in the 4641 box?

[Mr. Widget]

The 2242 I've heard in it a LOT and it always performs. Have anyone of you that are recommending the 2245 used it in the 4641 box?I have not heard it in a 4641 box, but the cabinet is 8 cu ft... you can easily retune it if needed.

I personally wouldn't use 2242s unless maximum SPL was a requirement. The 2269 is another fine alternative.


Widget

[HCSGuy]

As far as I can tell, the 4641 box is the functional equivalent of the B460 - 8 cubic ft tuned to 25hz (I think the B460 is tuned to 26hz) so a 2245 should be great, providing you have the ability to do some boost at the tuning frequency and cut subsonically. OP should read Greg Timber’s 1983 article on homebuilt subs using the 2235 and 2245, as this is pretty much what he is doing:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/reference/technical/1983-subs.htm

If you decide to do 2245 and can’t find one, let me know - I have a few I am not using, though I imagine postage will be a fortune.

[Cheapdrinks]

If you decide to do 2245 and can’t find one, let me know - I have a few I am not using, though I imagine postage will be a fortune.

Thanks for the advice, i'm hoping one comes up locally, it definitely would seem like it's the best option. The 2243 also sounds good but might be even harder to find. Also i'm in Sydney, Australia which makes things even more difficult but regardless as soon as my budget allows for it i'm going to track one of them down. There is this 2245 which has been reconed "using aftermarket parts" (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-JBL-2245H-18-8-ohm-Speaker-Driver/264155791519?hash=item3d80e9809f:g:ss8AAOSwCGVcRln U&frcectupt=true) a short drive from my house for $700AUD($500USD). It's being sold by the most respected speaker repair place in NSW though (The Speaker Hospital in Sydney is pretty much the go to place for all speaker repairs in this area and has nothing but very positive reviews. They've helped me in the past as well with some parts for some vintage EV speakers) so I would imagine the quality couldn't be too bad. Do you think it's worth taking a chance or are aftermarket recone kits a crapshoot in terms of quality? If you were to ship one over to Sydney any idea of a ballpark figure of total driver cost+freight?

[HCSGuy]

I know prices vary from country to country, but holy crap that is expensive! If it’s not original JBL cone, it’s pretty much worthless, as you do not know what the woofer was built with. I think I paid $250 for the cheapest of my 2245’s, so it would be that plus postage, which may be $150 U.S. I’d have to box it up to get a weight. If you’re interested let me know and I’ll dig it up and check the foam - I had it reformed about 10yrs ago and it’s been in storage since.

[Cheapdrinks]

If you’re interested let me know and I’ll dig it up and check the foam - I had it reformed about 10yrs ago and it’s been in storage since.

Yeah everything here in Australia (Sydney especially) is ridiculously overpriced, I don't smoke but a pack of cigarettes is around $40 if that gives you some idea of the cost of living here. Buying internationally from eBay used to be a good way to save some cash when the dollar was close to parity with the US a few years ago but not only has it weakened significantly but in order to make local brick and mortar stores remain competitive (because they refuse to price things reasonably) they changed the law which used to make international purchases less than $1000 exempt from import taxes but now they apply to everything; a purchase of around $250AUD will cost you roughly an extra $50 in levies on top of that, it's just insane at this point.

Anyway thanks very much for the offer, I might just take you up on it! I'm just about to have a couple weeks off work for Easter and i'm going to see some family interstate so i'll be away from home for a little while but when I get back i'll see what my bank account looks like and probably hit you up after i've got another week or two of work under my belt, so maybe in a months time. Very excited to get this sub up and running after just about breaking my back getting the cabinet down two flights of stairs. I also sent The Speaker Hospital selling that reconed 2245 a message and asked them if they had any detailed information on what kind of recone kit they used or if they had any measurement data which might back up the high price they're asking. I doubt they'll get back to me with anything too useful but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask, if they get back to me with anything interesting i'll post it on here to see what people think.

[edgewound]

Here's your solution to a JBL 2245H recone kit. Drops in to any frame for 2245H/2240/E155. The frame MUST be prepped and cleaned thoroughly. From my Facebook page. I had been on sabbatical for most of 2018, but have a new shop. I even had a very nice visit from Ian Mackenzie.

https://www.facebook.com/UplandLoudspeaker/videos/2319019645002085/

A completed reconed 2245H:

https://www.facebook.com/UplandLoudspeaker/videos/622519538201535/

[gasfan]

Here's your solution to a JBL 2245H recone kit. Drops in to any frame for 2245H/2240/E155. The frame MUST be prepped and cleaned thoroughly. From my Facebook page. I had been on sabbatical for most of 2018, but have a new shop. I even had a very nice visit from Ian Mackenzie.

https://www.facebook.com/UplandLoudspeaker/videos/2319019645002085/

A completed reconed 2245H:

https://www.facebook.com/UplandLoudspeaker/videos/622519538201535/You did not mention the vc/construction, or the source of the cone.

[FE3T]

2245 would be good, or take your time and find a 2243, which is a 2242 built for home use (goes lower, but doesn't play as loud and is 1db less efficient). There's a seller on Ebay with two 2243HPL's available, but he's in Cypress:( Good luck getting your money back when they arrive with cracked frames. The shipping also seems too cheap.

I cant really see how a 2243H can be more suitable for home use, it has far less X max and very low QTS which even with a 30hz FS makes it very inefficient in the 20-80hz area in a regular ported box.

To me it seems more like a horn driver or a maximum output mid woofer than a home subwoofer (basically a larger version of the 2227H)

For a 8cuft box tuned to 25-26hz I would chose a 2245H, and that's what I did. (got myself a pair of baskets and a couple of oem recone kits before they vent vapor ware)


Ps the specs on the 2243H are aviable on this site in the driver section.

[edgewound]

You did not mention the vc/construction, or the source of the cone.

Voice coil is edgewound copper wire on kapton former. The cone is sourced from a US supplier.

[gasfan]

Voice coil is edgewound copper wire on kapton former. The cone is sourced from a US supplier.

But how do they compare with original oem construction? You're arriving at comparable mms but what did you start with before aquaplas? How comparatively rigid is the final product? I don't mean to take you to task, I just want to hear how well they've been emulated.:)

[edgewound]

But how do they compare with original oem construction? You're arriving at comparable mms but what did you start with before aquaplas? How comparatively rigid is the final product? I don't mean to take you to task, I just want to hear how well they've been emulated.:)
Here’s an email from a customer in Finland back in 2015:

”Hi Ken.Reconing went well and the reproduction cone sounds very accurate but little bit dry.I think thats because the cone is not broken in yet.the spider is still little bit tight but it will come loosen when time goes on and sound comes warmer.Thank you regards Eljas.”

His word is “accurate”.

[rusty jefferson]

Glad to see you've got the shop up and running and are making the modified kits. I don't need any currently, but accidents happen, and JBL ain't got em. There's a lot of 2245h baskets our there. Great woofer.

I too would load your box with a 2245h. You will need the 6db boost as explained in the linked article. Fiberglass, or loose wool stuffing for fill.

[turnitdown]

My vote (FWIW) is the 2245. It is optimized in 8 cu ft as evidenced by the B460 sub JBL designed.

[1audiohack]

I don’t think the 2243 was designed for domestic use. It was used in the Sound Power series I believe.

Barry.

[toddalin]

Pros and cons
2241H is by far the cheapest and most readily available. 2245..., not so much.
2241 goes lower than 2242. Forget watts, that's not an issue here.
2245 will require a refoam every 10-20 years.
2245 is better for a subwoofer, but a 2241 sounds more like a bass guitar should sound (texture) in a multi-way system.

BTW, I would seriously be considering the 2269 if available.

[Earl K]

Not that anyone really noticed, but G.T. let it be known many years back, ( through his spoke-person of the time ) that the 2241H was a laudable substitute for the hard-to-get 2245H.

Running some sims shows that to be true. Additionally, one has some recent testimonials ( like Todds ) to savour.

On the same subject ( sort-of ), G.T also mentioned the undiscovered HiFi capabilities of the roundly ignored 2204H.

:)

[sguttag]

Pros and cons
2241H is by far the cheapest and most readily available. 2245..., not so much.
2241 goes lower than 2242. Forget watts, that's not an issue here.
2245 will require a refoam every 10-20 years.
2245 is better for a subwoofer, but a 2241 sounds more like a bass guitar should sound (texture) in a multi-way system.

BTW, I would seriously be considering the 2269 if available.

I have not found that the 2241 goes lower than the 2242 and quite the opposite. I've used quite a bit of both and the 4645C routinely out performs the 4641 and the only difference is the driver...same box, same tuning.

Neither go as deep as the 2245, natch, though the 2245 doesn't have the power of the others. I'd agree that, for home use, the 2245 would be the one to seek. I also agree that the 2269 is worth considering though I think it should be given a box worthy of it. I have a genuine B460 (original owner) and this past year built a pair of SUB18 semi-clones (a little bit bigger, play a little bit deeper). The 2269 is just all kinds of awesome if one has the funds and the power to feed it (it isn't efficient).

[toddalin]

I have not found that the 2241 goes lower than the 2242 and quite the opposite. I've used quite a bit of both and the 4645C routinely out performs the 4641 and the only difference is the driver...same box, same tuning.



Well there you go. :skeptical:

Requires a different box and different tuning to take advantage of its capabilities. WinISD results are included!

Red is 2245H, Green is 2241H and White is 2242H. Speaks for itself.

http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/ScreenHunter_201_Apr_23_19_03.jpg

[Mr. Widget]

Red is 2245H, Green is 2241H and White is 2242H. Speaks for itself.

Yes it does.

If you look at the plots, the rolloff for the 2241H is steeper than the other two drivers. This means that the alignment you are showing is not a standard Butterworth alignment. You need to compare apples to apples .


Widget

[toddalin]

Yes it does.

If you look at the plots, the rolloff for the 2241H is steeper than the other two drivers. This means that the alignment you are showing is not a standard Butterworth alignment. You need to compare apples to apples .


Widget

I am letting WinISD do its own comparison based on whatever WinISD bases it's comparisons on.

By program default, if nothing is changed (e.g., box size/tuning) all drivers are shown in their optimum tuning based on their T/S parameters to get a flat response. Certainly the box can be tuned differently (e.g., a lower frequency with a dip before a rise back to average before the rolloff, or a higher frequency with a peak before the rolloff), but I let the program select these parameters for the flattest response and this is what it comes up with.

You'll have to take that up with WinISD.

[sguttag]

So....WinISD is better than JBL and defies actual measurements?

JBL's specs for the 4641 (2241 in an 8ft3 box) http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/4641%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf
JBL's specs for the 4645C (2242 in the same 8ft3 box) http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/4645C%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf

The 2241 does better in the mid bass (flatter) but for getting more bottom end, 2242 will routinely beat the 2241 when loaded in the same box (be it the 4645C type box, the 4642A type box; to get it with the 2242 it is the 5749 LF system).

[toddalin]

So....WinISD is better than JBL and defies actual measurements?

JBL's specs for the 4641 (2241 in an 8ft3 box) http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/4641%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf
JBL's specs for the 4645C (2242 in the same 8ft3 box) http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/4645C%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf

The 2241 does better in the mid bass (flatter) but for getting more bottom end, 2242 will routinely beat the 2241 when loaded in the same box (be it the 4645C type box, the 4642A type box; to get it with the 2242 it is the 5749 LF system).


Again, WinISD optimizes the box for the driver's T/S parameters. The 2241H is in a 10.7 cu ft box tuned to 35.3Hz. The 2242H is in a 3.0 cu ft box tuned to 50.85Hz. The 2245 is in a 7.7 cu ft box tuned to 30.16 Hz. Anything else will result in either a dip or a peak before the roll-off.

You note that the 2241 does better in the mid bass (flatter). This is most likely because the 2242 is producing the noted dip in response though this area of the band to get the lower extension in the bigger box than is optimum for the T/S parameters.

[toddalin]

BTW, there is another issue that need to be addressed and has been totally ignored. That is, what are the other drivers to be used?

The 2242 is so efficient that you will need to use it with some type of horn be it a "woofer" horn or driver horn. If you try to use a simple cone midrange, you will be hard pressed to find one that will keep up with the 2242. The 2251H 10" (with no horn enclosure as intended) barely keeps up with the 2241H.

In fact, I had the 2251 tuned nice and flat, but it didn't have the volume (dB) to keep up with the 2241 and I had to take a different tact in redoing the crossovers to let them sing louder. Know that you don't want to put a resistor in series with your woofer to knock down its dB (screws with the damping), and the best you'll do is to put a 20 ohm high wattage, non-inductive resistor across the woofer terminals to reduce the volume ~1-2 dB.

[toddalin]

OK, using JBLs specs of 225 liter box tuned to 25 Hz. But this is probably erronious and they should have specified the vent dimensions to get the actual tuning.

Think about it..., the dynamics of the installed speaker come into play in box tuning and how could both drivers be tuned to 25 Hz in the same box with the same vent?

2241 in green and 2242 shown in white. In a 3-way, what do you want to hear?

http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/ScreenHunter_202_Apr_24_13_01.jpg

[Cheapdrinks]

Sorry everyone, I went away for a week over Easter and only just got back. I'm just going through all the new comments now, thanks again for all the input and discussion, you guys really know your JBL drivers wow.

Had a couple more questions you might be able to answer; Firstly, what sort of crossover frequency would you recommend for this once I get it all put together? As it was going to be used as a domestic use subwoofer I was thinking somewhere around 80-120hz but was wondering if you recommend going a bit higher as it would probably perform better in the mid bass than my current speakers. It will be going into a 2 channel music set up which at the moment consists of some Infinity 6 Kappas powered by a TA-N80ES power amp (http://marantzhallo-fi.blogspot.com/2017/09/my-two-sony-ta-n80es-mk1-power.html). As I said before i'm going to order a minidsp to perform room correction and split the frequency range between the TA-N80ES and the iNuke/JBL sub. Haven't decided though if it would be better to EQ the sub from the minidsp as well or from the iNuke's onboard dsp, probably the minidsp I suppose.

For box lining I was thinking of buying some of this stuff which seems like it will be reasonably good (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Heavy-Duty-Sound-Barrier-Damping-Material-Improved-AX3680/391914037662?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144), does that seem like a decent choice? Also something else I noticed is that the area behind the port tube is painted black and if I use the staple marks in the wood as a guide, it doesn't seem like there was ever any damping material attached there directly behind the tube. Is there a reason for this, should I leave that area bare? Was also wondering if the cab should be stuffed with any loose material or if just damping the internal walls is enough/how it is supposed to be.



Pros and cons
BTW, I would seriously be considering the 2269 if available.

I might have to check the physical measurements on the 2269 to see if it would fit as there is some bracing midway through the cabinet which may get in the way of this driver as it's very deep but the taper might be enough for it to fit. I think it may be a little out of my price range though unfortunately.

I think at this point i'm probably going to hit up HCSGuy (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?11322-HCSGuy) for one of his 2245's in a few weeks when I can spare the cash (just got hit with $1200 at the dentist for a couple of fillings which was annoying and set me back a little)



OK, using JBLs specs of 225 liter box tuned to 25 Hz. But this is probably erroneous and they should have specified the vent dimensions to get the actual tuning.

The vent dimensions on my 4641 cab are 18cm diameter with a depth of 32cm if that helps

[toddalin]

Sorry everyone, I went away for a week over Easter and only just got back. I'm just going through all the new comments now, thanks again for all the input and discussion, you guys really know your JBL drivers wow.

Had a couple more questions you might be able to answer; Firstly, what sort of crossover frequency would you recommend for this once I get it all put together? As it was going to be used as a domestic use subwoofer I was thinking somewhere around 80-120hz but was wondering if you recommend going a bit higher as it would probably perform better in the mid bass than my current speakers. It will be going into a 2 channel music set up which at the moment consists of some Infinity 6 Kappas powered by a TA-N80ES power amp (http://marantzhallo-fi.blogspot.com/2017/09/my-two-sony-ta-n80es-mk1-power.html). As I said before i'm going to order a minidsp to perform room correction and split the frequency range between the TA-N80ES and the iNuke/JBL sub. Haven't decided though if it would be better to EQ the sub from the minidsp as well or from the iNuke's onboard dsp, probably the minidsp I suppose.

For box lining I was thinking of buying some of this stuff which seems like it will be reasonably good (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Heavy-Duty-Sound-Barrier-Damping-Material-Improved-AX3680/391914037662?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144), does that seem like a decent choice? Also something else I noticed is that the area behind the port tube is painted black and if I use the staple marks in the wood as a guide, it doesn't seem like there was ever any damping material attached there directly behind the tube. Is there a reason for this, should I leave that area bare? Was also wondering if the cab should be stuffed with any loose material or if just damping the internal walls is enough/how it is supposed to be.




I might have to check the physical measurements on the 2269 to see if it would fit as there is some bracing midway through the cabinet which may get in the way of this driver as it's very deep but the taper might be enough for it to fit. I think it may be a little out of my price range though unfortunately.

I think at this point i'm probably going to hit up HCSGuy (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?11322-HCSGuy) for one of his 2245's in a few weeks when I can spare the cash (just got hit with $1200 at the dentist for a couple of fillings which was annoying and set me back a little)




The vent dimensions on my 4641 cab are 18cm diameter with a depth of 32cm if that helps

According to WinISD the box is tuned to 27.15 Hz. Plots are below with 2241H in green and 2242H in white.

One needs to recognize that the plots are based on the roll-off from the average signal, overlaid upon each other, and do not consider that the 2242H is ~3 dB louder, and would still be 3 dB louder at 27 Hz (where the plot lines cross) even though it is further rolled-off along it's journey to this point relative to the 2241H. Subjectively, this would make the 2242H stronger at 27 Hz when compared in a "heads up" competition with the 2241H.

However if you've settled on 2245s, in this case it is a moot point.

http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/ScreenHunter_203_Apr_25_12_32.jpg

[emilime75]

BTW, there is another issue that need to be addressed and has been totally ignored. That is, what are the other drivers to be used?

The 2242 is so efficient that you will need to use it with some type of horn be it a "woofer" horn or driver horn. If you try to use a simple cone midrange, you will be hard pressed to find one that will keep up with the 2242. The 2251H 10" (with no horn enclosure as intended) barely keeps up with the 2241H.

In fact, I had the 2251 tuned nice and flat, but it didn't have the volume (dB) to keep up with the 2241 and I had to take a different tact in redoing the crossovers to let them sing louder. Know that you don't want to put a resistor in series with your woofer to knock down its dB (screws with the damping), and the best you'll do is to put a 20 ohm high wattage, non-inductive resistor across the woofer terminals to reduce the volume ~1-2 dB.

My 2251J's "keep up" with dual 2226Hs just fine. Aside from that, OP said he'll use an amp with built in DSP and he also mentioned buying a MiniDSP...he won't need to mess with no stinkin' resistors.


...Think about it..., the dynamics of the installed speaker come into play in box tuning and how could both drivers be tuned to 25 Hz in the same box with the same vent?

You tune the box, not the driver, i.e. changing the woofer in a box doesn't change the tuning of the box, but the tuning of the box changes how a driver will perform in said box. Hoping that makes sense because it's a common misconception. Let me try it this way...you can build a box and tune it to whatever you want without even knowing what driver you'll put into it.

[Val]

But how do they compare with original oem construction? You're arriving at comparable mms but what did you start with before aquaplas? How comparatively rigid is the final product? I don't mean to take you to task, I just want to hear how well they've been emulated.:)

I blew my 2245H being stupid with an overpowered amp and Soul Coughing "Rolling" (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?41114-2245H-Detached-Spider), a tune which has some serious LF. I sent it off to edgewound for a recone and just got it back last week. It sounds great and I can't tell any difference from before, so for me, compares well with oem construction. I highly recommend his work.

[DogBox]

It's being sold by the most respected speaker repair place in NSW
Says WHO when it comes to JBL... NOT from what i've seen of their work...

(The Speaker Hospital in Sydney is pretty much the go to place for all speaker repairs in this area and has nothing but very positive reviews. They've helped me in the past as well with some parts for some vintage EV speakers) so I would imagine the quality couldn't be too bad.

Do you think it's worth taking a chance or are aftermarket recone kits a crapshoot in terms of quality?

NEVER, not to a JBL. I was once where you are many years ago and now I still have the bruises where i've kicked myself for falling for it. Regret sounds horrible!

.....figure of total driver cost+freight? Sometimes you just have to weigh things up for when you buy from the States.

If you are looking for a Basket to Recone a 2245, I may be able to help. I'm on the NSW south coast. I am waiting to get some recones from Edgewound [here on

the forum] who has also Aquaplased a bunch of recones to the Proper [as good as you are going to get these days!] JBL Specs. Expensive? Not considering.

Just have to wait until the USD/AUD$ exchange gets a bit better and i'll be getting some.

From what I have learned, this is what I am going to do.

Kind Regards,
DogBox
[steve]

[more10]

Is the box made of plywood och chipboard? How dense plywood? How much bracing is there?