JBL L110 woofer air leak

[tinkerwalsh]

Hey All,

new to this forum - stoked to know it exists now!

Anyway - I have a pair of JBL L110s which I love very much. I just got a old AR turnable running and wanted to test out the bass out :D

when i cranked up the system i noticed a weird buzzing coming thru the left speaker. clearly audible during heavy bass passages. almost a buzz/hissing. I just let the woofers run - no mid or high. checked the right side - clear as a bass bell. ran my hand around the outside of the left woofer and could clearly feel a air leak. I pulled the screws and re-set them. no luck getting the leak.

So now i am wondering what my best option is for sealing this leak out is? my first thought was a bead of silicone? but i wanted to consult people who been down this road before.

also my system was cranked when this happened. i dont normally listen that loud - but sometimes i do.

thanks!

[Earl K]

Don't use silicon caulking, you'll never be able to remove the woofer if you do.

Best to remove the woofer and then install some thin ( window + draft ) sticky-backed foam ( 1/4"-3/8" wide ) onto the back-side of the woofer's basket edge.

The foam only needs to be 1/8" high or so.

Do you have L100's or L110's ( you mention both ).

If you have L110's then the air leak might be the surround starting to disintegrate ( & therefore needing replacing ).


:)

[tinkerwalsh]

Don't use silicon caulking, you'll never be able to remove the woofer if you do.

Best to remove the woofer and then install some thin ( window + draft ) sticky-backed foam ( 1/4"-3/8" wide ) onto the back-side of the woofer's basket edge.

The foam only needs to be 1/8" high or so.

Do you have L100's or L110's ( you mention both ).

If you have L110's then the air leak might be the surround starting to disintegrate ( & therefore needing replacing ).


:)

Opps!

Ill have to chance my title! Thanks for pointing that out!

They are the L110s. They had be re-foamed before I got my hands on them so Im hoping they are all good on that front. But I dont know a ton about speakers.

Thanks for the tip on window draft stop. That makes more sense to me. I had the same concern about the permanence of silicone! terrible stuff to remove.

[tinkerwalsh]

Don't use silicon caulking, you'll never be able to remove the woofer if you do.

Best to remove the woofer and then install some thin ( window + draft ) sticky-backed foam ( 1/4"-3/8" wide ) onto the back-side of the woofer's basket edge.

The foam only needs to be 1/8" high or so.

Do you have L100's or L110's ( you mention both ).

If you have L110's then the air leak might be the surround starting to disintegrate ( & therefore needing replacing ).


:)

Hey, just wanted to let you know that I applied some of the window draft sticky-backed foam and it worked like a charm :D !

Thanks so much for the help!! Long live the bass :bouncy:

-Dave

[Earl K]

You're welcome!

Glad it all worked out for you.

Do you have original L110's or L110a's ?

:)

[bedrock602]

You're welcome!

Glad it all worked out for you.

Do you have original L110's or L110a's ?

:)

I looked in the library and couldn't find references to either the L110 or L110A, what are the differences and when were they offered?

[Earl K]

I looked in the library and couldn't find references to either the L110 or L110A, what are the differences and when were they offered?

Keep Searching the site! The info is out there.

Use Techbot ( or 4313B as the thread author ) and L110 in the text field that needs to be discovered.

- There's very detailed info available for the L110.

Availability Guess?
L110 ( 1979 - 1981 )
L110A ( 1981 - 1983 )

The most notable differences comprise the migration away from Alnico based drivers to Ferrite based drivers.

:)

[LRBacon]

You have a pair of L110As if there is an "A" and an "H", either die stamped in the aluminum or printed on the aluminum, after the serial number. If you look into the port you will not be able to see any of the fiberglass dampening material as the port is curved in the L110A. If yours does not have either of these traits then they are the original L110s. L110As use the LE111H woofer and bypass capacitors in the N110A crossover network.

Larry

[rusty jefferson]

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?24165-L110


Some L110(a) threads


https://www.google.com/search?q=jbl+l110a+site:www.audioheritage.org&client=ms-android-verizon&hl=en&prmd=sivn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjTv4rf9JTiAhVOhOAKHazNBq8QrQIoBDALegQIB BAK&biw=360&bih=668#ip=1

[bedrock602]

Keep Searching the site! The info is out there.

Use Techbot ( or 4313B as the thread author ) and L110 in the text field that needs to be discovered.

- There's very detailed info available for the L110.

Availability Guess?
L110 ( 1979 - 1981 )
L110A ( 1981 - 1983 )

The most notable differences comprise the migration away from Alnico based drivers to Ferrite based drivers.

:)

found this great thread...

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?1168-L65-L86-L96-L100-L110-L112-L150-L166&highlight=l110