Repair l212 stands

[bldozier]

Any easy way to repair these
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[rdgrimes]

Re-create is a better option. Start from scratch.

[bldozier]

I know I'm a young man still but your not on the avenue of going about a repair, whats frightening?

[rdgrimes]

You're dealing with crunched MDF, it can't be repaired. You need new veneer as well, so start from scratch. Tear that one apart and sort out how it was made, maybe use some of it as a template.

[bldozier]

You might be right, its doesn't seem to be stable. im sure the veener replacement is a minimal notion, I guess the hardest area of refurbishment is rebuilding tne loss of mdf mass around the cracked area. it definitely looks challenging, however I dont see it as a total loss. thabks for your input.
Brian

[hjames]

You might be right, its doesn't seem to be stable. im sure the veener replacement is a minimal notion, I guess the hardest area of refurbishment is rebuilding tne loss of mdf mass around the cracked area. it definitely looks challenging, however I dont see it as a total loss. thabks for your input.
Brian

Well, its a signature piece and you can't fix it if looks are important -
but if I was trying to fix it, if I just wanted it stable and usable -
and I didn't worry about the looks so much ...
I'd use some industrial adhesive or Gorilla Glue to put the pieces together.
I would attach a piece of, say, 3/8 inch plywood across the bottom,
and screw up into the MDF bases from underneath just to lock the pieces in place.

You'd need a hole into the center of the plywood so the wire could get into the column,
maybe use a router for a large hole in the plywood to match the original access from below
and put some feet on the edges of the plywood so you'd have clearance off the floor for the wire to run.

Kinda quick and dirty, but that's about the only choice you get with it snapped off like that.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=74833&d=1480883410

[quindecima]

Whats the worst that can happen if you try to repair it? It doesn't work. I would use Titebond extended duty glue instead of that gorilla crap and make sure you have some clamps on hand. clean out any loose or bent MDF or particle board fibers and loose chunks and trial fit it together. Glue the crap out of it and clamp it together for at least a day. If it works nice if not make your own.

[bldozier]

Their hollow at the bend... it looks much worse then it actually is, I dont have them on hand. I spoke with a member whom has a pair looks like the contour is edged meaning the sides of the platforms carry the curve...

I guess, again dont have possession at the moment, the veener was applied over the bends and kept its form with the nominal glue process, kind of incredible.

A fix maybe to and a formed curve to the centers... maybe. Idk... carefully cut away the broken and splintered veener, in a section you know replace the section. That or cut the bases to a pont an rebuild. Or a complete rebuild, as mentioned...

☺

[gdmoore28]

Heather, aren't you rebuilding a pair of these, as well? A picture from the OP or Heather looking up into the bases would make suggestions on repair a little easier. I'm assuming that JBL used the side pieces to establish the shape and installed spaced slats to support the veneer? Are the bases used as supports for the speakers, or are they used to increase the internal volume? Do the actual speaker enclosures open up into the bases? If I'm looking at this correctly, a rebuild should not be very difficult. The primary expense will be the veneer.

GeeDeeEmm

[hjames]

Heather, aren't you rebuilding a pair of these, as well? A picture from the OP or Heather looking up into the bases would make suggestions on repair a little easier. I'm assuming that JBL used the side pieces to establish the shape and installed spaced slats to support the veneer? Are the bases used as supports for the speakers, or are they used to increase the internal volume? Do the actual speaker enclosures open up into the bases? If I'm looking at this correctly, a rebuild should not be very difficult. The primary expense will be the veneer.

GeeDeeEmm
Basically, the "chimney" in the base is rectangular going up to the bottom of the tower piece.
There is no visible access to the underside of the curve area without drilling a hole or cutting in from the chimney.
But remember - I am not a woodworker or cabinet maker

I'm guessing the side are where the curve is created - and from the easy way you can break through the veneer in the curve section,
it seems like there is not much underneath the veneer once away from the sides ... (I have a bash in the center of one of mine) .

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