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jbasse
06-14-2016, 04:17 PM
Hello everybody. My first post here but I found some JBL 4311 WX-A that need a bunch of help to get back to running order. The previous owner had screwed hangers in the top of them to hang them in his shop where they evidently were subject to some moisture. The cabinets have some separation in the corners from the moisture but nothing too severe

I have been reading various threads here to gain an understanding of restoring these. My plans for the cabinet is to fill the holes with wood putty and to bondo in the separation of the corners before I reveneer over the top. I wish I could save the original veneer but they are too far gone.

I have pulled all of the drivers and the woofers and mids all are showing continuity but the tweeters are shot. I have a pair of LE-26 tweeters that are laying around that I plan on using. The problem with the mids is there is a water line on the cone and was wondering what is the best way to try and remove the line? I have read that an eraser may work but I have yet to make it to the store to buy an eraser.

I need to replace the L-Pads and was wondering if the 15w versions from parts express will work fine or if I need to buy a larger watt rated L-Pad?

I know these are not the best JBL has to offer but I just can't stand to see a good vintage speaker just sitting and rotting away from neglect.:(

Other speakers that I have saved from junk shops or thrift shops are: Electrovoice Aristocrats, AR3a, AR2a, and Frazier MkIV

I will be posting pictures later on in the week as I am at work and am going to be out of town for a couple of days.

Joseph Smith Jr
06-14-2016, 05:14 PM
Hello everybody. My first post here but I found some JBL 4311 WX-A that need a bunch of help to get back to running order. The previous owner had screwed hangers in the top of them to hang them in his shop where they evidently were subject to some moisture. The cabinets have some separation in the corners from the moisture but nothing too severe

I have been reading various threads here to gain an understanding of restoring these. My plans for the cabinet is to fill the holes with wood putty and to bondo in the separation of the corners before I reveneer over the top. I wish I could save the original veneer but they are too far gone.

I have pulled all of the drivers and the woofers and mids all are showing continuity but the tweeters are shot. I have a pair of LE-26 tweeters that are laying around that I plan on using. The problem with the mids is there is a water line on the cone and was wondering what is the best way to try and remove the line? I have read that an eraser may work but I have yet to make it to the store to buy an eraser.

I need to replace the L-Pads and was wondering if the 15w versions from parts express will work fine or if I need to buy a larger watt rated L-Pad?

I know these are not the best JBL has to offer but I just can't stand to see a good vintage speaker just sitting and rotting away from neglect.:(

Other speakers that I have saved from junk shops or thrift shops are: Electrovoice Aristocrats, AR3a, AR2a, and Frazier MkIV

I will be posting pictures later on in the week as I am at work and am going to be out of town for a couple of days.
The tweeters may be reparable depending on the how and why the VC windings have opened, it is very common for the lead wires out to the connecting lugs to be broken, if not, the LE-26s will be just fine for replacements
The water stain on the mids? Do NOT rub the cone with an eraser, post a photo of the stain and I may be able to help you with a remedy. In the meantime, leave it alone
As for the L-pads, why do you want to replace them? If they are not damaged or burned I would advise that you thoroughly service them and reuse the originals. Alps or COSMOS made those and you are not going to find anything that fits exactly as it should AND is of comparable quality. They are high quality Japanese made wire wound controls and the stuff they sell today, although it certainly will work, is junk by comparison and just as suspect to noise from oxidation as the 40 year old originals.
It is a labor of love and will take some time though to restore them properly but it is not difficult
While you have your controls out, it would be to your benefit to replace the caps while you have it all apart, use the Daytons from Parts Express and add a film and foil by-pass cap of .01uF while you're at it
The caps are your choice, I just think it'd be a good idea based on my own past experience

They may not be the "best" JBL has to offer, but they certainly were at the top of their class in their day and are a very competent design still, by any standard
They were fine loudspeakers then and they're fine loudspeakers today

You will be very happy with them I am sure
Best of luck with your new project
Joe

jbasse
06-14-2016, 05:39 PM
I should have stated that one of the l-pads is destroyed and half of it is missing. I was going to replace all 4 but I may not now knowing they are of lesser quality. I already have Audyn Q4 caps in a shopping cart on Parts Express waiting for me to get paid on Friday.

And ok on the eraser trick. I will not try that. Thank you


I actually had a pair of 4311b's that I ended up trading in a deal for a Dynaco ST70. I did like the way they sounded and I knew this guy had the pair I am working on when I traded them away:D.

Where would the film and foil by-pass cap be added and what is its purpose? It has been about 5 years since I last recapped a pair of speakers (AR3a).

Joseph Smith Jr
06-14-2016, 10:07 PM
I should have stated that one of the l-pads is destroyed and half of it is missing. I was going to replace all 4 but I may not now knowing they are of lesser quality. I already have Audyn Q4 caps in a shopping cart on Parts Express waiting for me to get paid on Friday.

And ok on the eraser trick. I will not try that. Thank you


I actually had a pair of 4311b's that I ended up trading in a deal for a Dynaco ST70. I did like the way they sounded and I knew this guy had the pair I am working on when I traded them away:D.

Where would the film and foil by-pass cap be added and what is its purpose? It has been about 5 years since I last recapped a pair of speakers (AR3a).
The by-pass is optional and installed in parallel with the primary value cap
In brief, without getting into the facts and the theory behind it, it will improve the sound of the system, especially on the top end
There are many threads here on the subject, just do a search
JBL adopted it as standard practice with all of their networks sometime in the '80s or thereabouts
These will work well:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dffc-001-001uf-400v-by-pass-capacitor--027-450

As for your L-pads, if one is busted up then obviously you don't have much choice, at least for that one. If you can afford it go for all 4.

You don't have to buy the most expensive ones they have to choose from (price is usually in line with wattage ratings) When I have to replace, I also get the ones with vented housings so I can more easily spritz them with contact cleaner and lube when new and if and when it's needed later on
The original JBL part # was 10285, an 8 ohm, 50dB pot rated at 15 watts. One like this would be suitable and affordable
http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-1-shaft-8-ohm--260-250

audiomagnate
06-15-2016, 09:37 AM
...where they evidently were subject to some moisture. The cabinets have some separation in the corners from the moisture but nothing too severe...My plans for the cabinet is to fill the holes with wood putty and to bondo in the separation of the corners before I reveneer over the top...

Instead of filling the gap with Bondo I would recommend squirting some wood glue in there and then clamping the panels back together with pipe clamps.

jbasse
06-15-2016, 08:19 PM
Instead of filling the gap with Bondo I would recommend squirting some wood glue in there and then clamping the panels back together with pipe clamps.

Noted. Thank you. I will try that first.


Here are the photos of the midranges with the water marks. Also I was wondering if the binging posts on the midranges were available anywhere as both of them are busted on one midrange.

Also I noticed there was a little ding on one of my LE26 tweeters.......Is that enough to worry about.72156721577215872159

Joseph Smith Jr
06-15-2016, 09:02 PM
Noted. Thank you. I will try that first.


Here are the photos of the midranges with the water marks. Also I was wondering if the binging posts on the midranges were available anywhere as both of them are busted on one midrange.

Also I noticed there was a little ding on one of my LE26 tweeters.......Is that enough to worry about.
Those mids are really rough
I was under the impression that you only had a stain
First, clean the frames well, start easy and work up, try something like Nevr-Dull first and if that doesn't get it you can try a mildly abrasive polish like Flitz or Maas
Hard to tell how much of the crud is something you can wash or polish off off or if it's corrosion and how deep down in the aluminum's grain it is
If cleaning with soap and water and or the polish won't clean them up decently you can get a couple of sheets of wet dry sandpaper, put it face up on a hard flat table and rub the drivers across it in a straight line, back and forth to remove the corrosion and brighten things up. You might even want to just do that first and be done with it, hard to say from just the photos.
If the corrosion is too deep you may just have to do the best you can do and live with it, OR, paint your frames flat black, your call
As for the cones? Go to an art store and buy a small bottle of genuine India ink. Real India ink has no heavy binders so it won't add any measurable mass to the cones once dry. Use a sponge brush, lightly dampened with the ink and simply paint them. It may take more than one pass and if it does be sure to let the cones dry thoroughly between coats
Go slow, don't scrub them with the brush and let the pigment in the ink do the work
DON'T GET THEM SOPPING WET, just a light pass
You can speed things along with a hair dryer on WARM but don't overdo that either, the heat can compromise the drivers' adhesives
They'll be much darker than factory fresh was but will look a hell of a lot better than they do now
I'd also make sure they work well first, before I did anything as there's no need to waste any time or money

Is the dent in the tweeter a puncture that's all the way through or just a dent? If it's not a puncture you can use distilled water and isopropyl alcohol to shrink out that dent
If it's a puncture then we'll need to try another approach

Joseph Smith Jr
06-15-2016, 09:14 PM
Instead of filling the gap with Bondo I would recommend squirting some wood glue in there and then clamping the panels back together with pipe clamps.
Good approach, but success is dependent on how severely the joints have opened and how much the cabinet panels have swollen from being wet
Once it gets to a certain point you can clamp all day long and it isn't going to go back into place or to it's original thickness
I have successfully repaired a couple of cabs by re-wetting the joint and then clamping as you suggest, but I only went through that nightmare as I had veneer worth saving and my water damage wasn't too too bad
He says he's going to re-veneer these

jbasse
06-16-2016, 10:52 AM
The tweeter is a slight puncture. I am not too concerned with the aesthetics of the drivers as much as I will be making grill cloths for these. I just want these to function great. I will post photos of the cabinets either Friday evening or Saturday evening.


Thanks for all of the help. I have bought India Ink Sepia and painted the cones on the mids with one coat and I was worried it was too dark but as it is dryinf it is looking great. I would have never known about India Ink without this site.

Joseph Smith Jr
06-16-2016, 11:21 AM
The tweeter is a slight puncture. I am not too concerned with the aesthetics of the drivers as much as I will be making grill cloths for these. I just want these to function great. I will post photos of the cabinets either Friday evening or Saturday evening.


Thanks for all of the help. I have bought India Ink Sepia and painted the cones on the mids with one coat and I was worried it was too dark but as it is dryinf it is looking great. I would have never known about India Ink without this site.
That's great to hear, I am glad the ink worked out
Grilles or no grilles it is nice if they look decent
Sepia is awfully brown though, I wouldn't have thought of that color myself, I was thinking black, but if it looks good to you that's all that matters
It's the water in the ink that makes things look so dark when you first put it on, that's why I was emphatic when I suggested that you allow each light coat to dry before deciding whether or not to apply more as the pigment will have a cumulative effect and you can't really see how much until the vehicle (water) has evaporated

As for your punctured tweeter, take a piece of blue painter's tape, make a little wedge by folding it and see if you can pull the pushed in area back up any with it by gently pressing that spot with the tape and pulling up

Don't over do it, just give it a try and use a LIGHT touch. If you are gentle you can try it with regular masking tape as it is much stickier

Then, mix some isopropyl alcohol, the purer the better, 90% is fine for this, 50-50 with some distilled water and using an eye dropper or similar just drop one big drop on that spot
Let it soak in and dry
Repeat several or more times
After a while most of it will be gone, repeat until you can see that it has really changed things for the better
It may never take it out 100% but it will improve it
Then, take a small soft paint brush, small like for painting models, and give the whole cone a light wash with that same 50-50 solution
Get it wet but not dripping
Alow it to dry thoroughly
Most of the wound will hopefully be much less evident
If you're lucky it may disappear all together
Take a tooth pick and dip it in some Elmer's Glue that been thinned 50-50 with water and JUST TOUCH the actually puncture hole with the smallest amount you can and sort of work it into the tear
Let that dry
Then do the glue thing again
You're done and you can take it to the next level and treat your tweeters' cones with your ink the same as you did the mids

Joseph Smith Jr
06-16-2016, 11:30 AM
Please post a photograph of your mids after the ink treatment

Did you try to improve things at all with the mounting flanges ?

jbasse
06-18-2016, 04:20 PM
Sorry I haven't been online in a couple of days but here are the shots of the cabinets and the mids after dying them. I trided to sand the mids frames a bit but it was not coming off very well. I am going to be slowly working on these over the next month or so. I have ordered the caps and l-pads.

jbasse
06-18-2016, 04:22 PM
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jbasse
06-18-2016, 04:23 PM
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jbasse
06-18-2016, 04:24 PM
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jbasse
06-24-2016, 02:26 PM
Could a mod please move this to the technical board.

Joseph Smith Jr
06-24-2016, 03:32 PM
How are your new speakers doing?
Making progress?
Joe

jbasse
06-27-2016, 06:12 PM
It is going slowly but it is going good. Bondo on the cabs and the backs and front have been painted black. It looks a whole lot better already. The crossovers are recapped with Audyn Q4 caps (2 1.5uf for the tweeter and 1 8.2uf for the midrange). I did use a .01 film cap with the tweeter cap mostly because I meant to order 4 from parts express buy accidently ordered only 2 of them.

I should be putting the veneer on Wed or Thurs of this week and then finishing them with some tung oil a couple of days after that.

Joseph Smith Jr
06-28-2016, 08:58 PM
It is going slowly but it is going good. Bondo on the cabs and the backs and front have been painted black. It looks a whole lot better already. The crossovers are recapped with Audyn Q4 caps (2 1.5uf for the tweeter and 1 8.2uf for the midrange). I did use a .01 film cap with the tweeter cap mostly because I meant to order 4 from parts express buy accidently ordered only 2 of them.

I should be putting the veneer on Wed or Thurs of this week and then finishing them with some tung oil a couple of days after that.
Sounds good, look forward to seeing them
Joe

boputnam
07-01-2016, 02:17 PM
Could a mod please move this to the technical board.:yes:

jbasse
07-05-2016, 03:38 PM
Well I got them put together and hooked them up and one of the woofers was buzzing during high bass moments. I took it out and turned it 180 degrees and that seemed to help but I will listed to them more carefully tomorrow. Not sure what the best course of action would be if the buzzing persists.

I am putting the finishing touches on the cabinets and then will make the grilles for them in the coming weeks. As this was my first real restoration and reveneer job I am happy with the results so far.

I am going to need to do something with the foilcals sometime but currently do not have the cash to shell out for new ones. Is there a way to flatten them back out as the previous owner crinkled them. I was thinking about doing what this guy did (http://www.klipschupgrades.com/jbl4311.shtml) (http://www.klipschupgrades.com/jbl4311.shtml) as I have some veneer left over and the foilcals I have are fine on the half that has the JBL and the model number.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-05-2016, 04:11 PM
Well I got them put together and hooked them up and one of the woofers was buzzing during high bass moments. I took it out and turned it 180 degrees and that seemed to help but I will listed to them more carefully tomorrow. Not sure what the best course of action would be if the buzzing persists.

I am putting the finishing touches on the cabinets and then will make the grilles for them in the coming weeks. As this was my first real restoration and reveneer job I am happy with the results so far.

I am going to need to do something with the foilcals sometime but currently do not have the cash to shell out for new ones. Is there a way to flatten them back out as the previous owner crinkled them. I was thinking about doing what this guy did (http://www.klipschupgrades.com/jbl4311.shtml) (http://www.klipschupgrades.com/jbl4311.shtml) as I have some veneer left over and the foilcals I have are fine on the half that has the JBL and the model number.
Clean the foilcals well, no bits of paint or MDF stuck to them, and clamp them TIGHTLY between two pieces of clean glass overnight
Use wood between the glass and the clamps obviously
They'll flatten out as good as new

As for your buzzing, make sure the tinsel leads aren't touching the cone anywhere and that you don't have any bad glue joints at the surround attaching lip or at the spider.
But first, make sure you don't have any air leaks
You can feel for leaks with your hand or use a piece of paper towel to find them, just pass it over the drivers and cab while playing the bass notes and see if you notice any fluttering
I use foam weather strip on my woofers instead of the O-rings just because of this problem. On those older cabs, the sealing surface for the woofer frames leaves a lot to be desired and the O-ring isn't always thick enough to give you a good seal and it can and will make noise

Even though it's a ported box, air leaks at any of the areas around the woofer frame, the tweeters, the crossover/L-pad board or input connector board can give you a buzzing that sounds like it's the woofer when it's not, especially on hard low bass at higher SPLs

JBL put foam rings around the L-pad shafts, most of the time but not always. I've had plenty that were bare. Pay close attention to those

If rotating the woofers changed the noise, and it's a buzz and not a click or a knocking sound, then that's a good sign that it is a sealing problem and not a mechanical one so think positive

Also, double check and make sure there are no wires in the cab touching anything except where they are supposed to connect and for any loose hardware

Take your time and inspect things closely, you're waking up the dead, it'll all be cool!

Joe

jbasse
07-05-2016, 05:34 PM
I used mortite to seal the woofers and there is no air coming out from around the woofers. I think it may be the glue on the surrounds or spider because I pulled the woofer out while it was playing and the noise was coming from the woofer still.

The other speaker has a leak where the speaker terminal plate is attached to the cabinets. I am going to open those up and fix that tomorrow.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-05-2016, 08:30 PM
I used mortite to seal the woofers and there is no air coming out from around the woofers. I think it may be the glue on the surrounds or spider because I pulled the woofer out while it was playing and the noise was coming from the woofer still.

The other speaker has a leak where the speaker terminal plate is attached to the cabinets. I am going to open those up and fix that tomorrow.
Try and describe the sound it's making

jbasse
07-06-2016, 12:01 AM
Well I think I may need a new woofer or repairs. I made a video of the woofer outside of the box with loudness on and bass turned up and it is worse than I thought.


Here is a link to the video:

https://youtu.be/jhKav5hvz04

Joseph Smith Jr
07-06-2016, 08:32 AM
Well I think I may need a new woofer or repairs. I made a video of the woofer outside of the box with loudness on and bass turned up and it is worse than I thought.


Here is a link to the video:

https://youtu.be/jhKav5hvz04
Can't really tell for certain from your video, too short
Was that woofer the only thing playing?
If I had to pick a card, I'd still say it sounds like something coming unglued, if it is the only thing you had playing
That or a really saggy spider which is unusual
Frustrating because you are there and I am here
When you look at the woofer from the side, does the spider appear flat?
What amp are you using?

What was the music you were playing, I dig that

Joe

jbasse
07-07-2016, 11:01 AM
Well I checked everything out and there was no sagging spider and I could not find any of the surround or spider that were loose. I sent a speaker repair person on Audiokarma the video and he thought it was voice coil damage. I sent the woofer off to him and he should be able to repair whatever is wrong.


The music I was listening to was Dunes by The Alabama Shakes. Great band from Athens, Alabama.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-07-2016, 11:08 AM
Well I checked everything out and there was no sagging spider and I could not find any of the surround or spider that were loose. I sent a speaker repair person on Audiokarma the video and he thought it was voice coil damage. I sent the woofer off to him and he should be able to repair whatever is wrong.


The music I was listening to was Dunes by The Alabama Shakes. Great band from Athens, Alabama.
I had an old compression driver diaphragm once on which the glue attaching the voice coil to the dome itself had partially let go
The diaphragm played music put would make a weird clicking noise from time to time depending on content
I thought about that when I heard your video, but the sound was very different, still I thought of that as a possibility
Hopefully that's the case and he can repair it for you, that would be great

Thanks for the heads up on the band, yeah, the barefoot chick, I caught them briefly on one of the plethora of late night shows not too long ago, PBS too I think, but both shows were winding up when I stumbled across them, I will definitely check them out more closely

Joe

jbasse
07-12-2016, 09:30 AM
Well I just hear back from the guy I sent it off to. Good News! The surround was rotted in some places making the voice coil rub at high excursion as well as some dirt from an old mud dobber nest on the back of the woofer:blink:. So he put new surrounds on, new dust cap, and cleaned everything up real good all for $50 plus shipping. He received the woofer yesterday!!!

These things were not taken care of at all by the previous owner and I am glad that I found them to give them new life.


Also I am uploading a picture of one of the foilcals that has some of the paint worn off. What would be the best way to repaint the foilcal?

72662

Joseph Smith Jr
07-12-2016, 09:47 AM
Well I just hear back from the guy I sent it off to. Good News! The surround was rotted in some places making the voice coil rub at high excursion as well as some dirt from an old mud dobber nest on the back of the woofer:blink:. So he put new surrounds on, new dust cap, and cleaned everything up real good all for $50 plus shipping. He received the woofer yesterday!!!

These things were not taken care of at all by the previous owner and I am glad that I found them to give them new life.


Also I am uploading a picture of one of the foilcals that has some of the paint worn off. What would be the best way to repaint the foilcal?

72662
That's great news about your woofers
Did you get them both done?

Did the glass flatten out your foilcals or did you do something else?
Either way, looks good
Touch up the scratched spots on the foilcal lightly, like just enough to make the scratched spots black again, spray or brush, whatever you got but keep the touch up THIN THIN THIN! Leave the good black areas alone

Touch it up light and let it dry at least 24 hours and then spray the whole foilcal with some Dullcote, the Testors model stuff, it's clear flat lacquer so go with light coats (lacquer can make old finish lift)
It'll smooth out all the touch up spots so you can't see them, makes everything look all smooth again

It'll makes 'em look perfect, they'll look great

Do y'all have an ACE hardware store?

Joe

Joseph Smith Jr
07-12-2016, 09:59 AM
That's weird though, your woofers should have had the cloth type surrounds
Did somebody change them out or was the cloth bad?
What's the model number of your woofers?

Joe

jbasse
07-12-2016, 10:09 AM
No all we have is a local lumber yard/hardware store which I think has Do It Best stuff. Bastrop, where I work, which is 15 miles away has a Lowes, Home Depot, and a McCoy's. La Grange (yes like the ZZ Top song) is 20 miles away or so and has an Ace.

I haven't done anything with the foilcals except sit them under some Infinity Qb's that I have waiting to get recapped for a couple of days. What is the best thing to clean all of the glue and mdf off of them?


I only sent the one woofer off to get fixed. The other speaker is put together and sounding great as a mono setup. No air leaks or weird noises on that one. Also I had a question about re-magnetizing the alnico woofers. Is it really necessary in your opinion?

BTW I recently picked up a pair of 4408A's for $60 that all they need is a refoam. I love Craigslist sometimes.

jbasse
07-12-2016, 10:11 AM
The woofers have cloth surrounds. I thought that was weird too but we will see when I get them back. He could have meant that the woofer surround was ripped or something. They were 2213's.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-12-2016, 10:35 AM
No all we have is a local lumber yard/hardware store which I think has Do It Best stuff. Bastrop, where I work, which is 15 miles away has a Lowes, Home Depot, and a McCoy's. La Grange (yes like the ZZ Top song) is 20 miles away or so and has an Ace.

I haven't done anything with the foilcals except sit them under some Infinity Qb's that I have waiting to get recapped for a couple of days. What is the best thing to clean all of the glue and mdf off of them?


I only sent the one woofer off to get fixed. The other speaker is put together and sounding great as a mono setup. No air leaks or weird noises on that one. Also I had a question about re-magnetizing the alnico woofers. Is it really necessary in your opinion?

BTW I recently picked up a pair of 4408A's for $60 that all they need is a refoam. I love Craigslist sometimes.
The 4408As are very nice, good find
As for recharging your Alnico motors?, don't worry about it or let anyone tell you you need to worry about it
Re-charging them is a real thing but if they sound ok then leave them alone

Joseph Smith Jr
07-12-2016, 10:37 AM
The woofers have cloth surrounds. I thought that was weird too but we will see when I get them back. He could have meant that the woofer surround was ripped or something. They were 2213's.
They do sell 'em, so who knows
I can't believe what people so sometimes, tearing stuff up
Like pushing in on dust caps and what not

Joe

jbasse
07-23-2016, 06:23 AM
I got the woofer back from the repairs yesterday and everything works great. Now the problem I have is that the woofer that was repaired has more and cleaner bass output than the other. Also when I push on the repaired woofer it moves more freely than the unrepaired one.

The only other issue I have is one of the knobs for the l-pads cracked in half when I installed it yesterday.


Other than that and the issues with a first time veneerer they are looking and working a whole hell of a lot better than they were when I got them. I still am going to make two sets of grill cloths for them with the blue and the orange grill cloth.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-23-2016, 10:31 AM
I got the woofer back from the repairs yesterday and everything works great. Now the problem I have is that the woofer that was repaired has more and cleaner bass output than the other. Also when I push on the repaired woofer it moves more freely than the unrepaired one.

The only other issue I have is one of the knobs for the l-pads cracked in half when I installed it yesterday.


Other than that and the issues with a first time veneerer they are looking and working a whole hell of a lot better than they were when I got them. I still am going to make two sets of grill cloths for them with the blue and the orange grill cloth.
Playing them, like some real hours may help balance out your woofers
In a perfect world do to the other one what you had done to the bad one
But like I said, playing may take care of a lot, if not all of that

Let's see at least one picture man!

Glad your woofer was fixed, it look nice?

Joe

Joseph Smith Jr
07-23-2016, 10:34 AM
What is the best thing to clean all of the glue and mdf off of them?
How much crap you got on 'em?
Yeah, I know where you live I looked it up
Nice, I wish I was in Smithville, Texas right about now
I only asked about the ACE because I know what they have there and the brands and labels that are good

Joe

jbasse
07-25-2016, 11:16 AM
Here are some photos and where they are currently set up. I currently live in a small trailer until I get married in March and then I will be living somewhere that will have more space for my stereo. I will pull them out and take better pictures with a better camera soon.

They are sounding better and better the more I play them.

Joseph Smith Jr
07-25-2016, 03:46 PM
Here are some photos and where they are currently set up. I currently live in a small trailer until I get married in March and then I will be living somewhere that will have more space for my stereo. I will pull them out and take better pictures with a better camera soon.

They are sounding better and better the more I play them.
Nice
I think they'll get even better the more you use them, especially if they weren't used a lot and didn't get much love
Glad to see you've got a turntable too!
Nice amp by the way

Joe