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studiojoe
12-14-2015, 09:44 PM
Hi all, my first post here. I've been studying on here for 3-4 yrs and I am finally getting close to my first build. I've sold JBL Pro for a living since 1990.
I've always wanted to build/buy a nice set of JBL's for main monitors for my Music Recording Studio That had the classic visual appeal of the 60's stuff.

I know there is a lot of JBL guru's on here with way more experience than me and welcome some opinions on the best setup using what I own.

I currently use JBL's in the studio for mixing including LSR4328p and a pair of L-7's in a separate mastering room. For live band gigs my rig is 4x JBL SR4719 and various JBL mid/hi boxes.

A few years ago I found a empty pair of Olympus cabs, (thanks Audiobeer)
I believe they are around 1964 vintage, mine have cutout for single 15" (no passive radiator)
I love the look of them. My goal is to build a 3way high output reference system for playing mixes on for customers.

Over the years I have collected a lot of JBL components and have the following to use.

4x 2402h
2x 2445j
2x 2416h
2x 2118h
2x k145
2x 2226h

I plan on using my XTA DP-226 3 way stereo x-over with following amps I already own.

2x Yamaha P2250 for lows (500 watts at 8ohm bridged)
2x Yamaha P2150 for mid horn (300 watts at 8ohm bridged)
1x Yamaha P2250 for tweets (170 watts per ch at 8ohms)

Questions,
1. Should I put some sort of cap across the mids and tweets for protection since I am using active?
2. Anyone want to give opinions of best combo of raw drivers I have?
3. is there a better horn that will fit the Olympus than the 2311/h93? I have to buy these still.
4. I was thinking of selling the 4x 2402h and getting a pair of 2405h?
5. Would using a cone mid (2118h) and 2416h be a better option than the 2445j's and tweets (2402h or 2405h)
6. I have NOS 2441 dia. I can put in the 2445's would you?
7. Anyone every array 2x 2402h to get wider horizontal dispersion?

So far I'm thinking....

k145's
2245's with 2311/h93 and 2441 dia.
2405's


My primary Goals are,
High SPL (for shock and awe)
Looks (so clients think I'm cool)
Relatively flat and accurate.

Sorry for so many questions at once.
Thanks and looking forward to your opinions, Joe

Mr. Widget
12-15-2015, 12:59 PM
So far I'm thinking....

k145's
2245's with 2311/h93 and 2441 dia.
2405's


My primary Goals are,
High SPL (for shock and awe)
Looks (so clients think I'm cool)
Relatively flat and accurate.

Sorry for so many questions at once.
Thanks and looking forward to your opinions, JoeI think you are on the right track. Yes, I would use protection caps and yes, I would install the 2441 diaphragms.

I understand that the 2311/H93 is a compact and convenient solution, but not really the best solution above the K145s. Unfortunately I don't have an easy to find and good alternative for you.


Widget

frank23
12-16-2015, 12:16 AM
For shock and awe I would put in the 2445 diaphragms as titanium can take more than aluminium. For good sound I would put in 2441 diaphragms as aluminium sounds better.

If the DC offset on your amps is stable and small and there is no 'power on/off peak' then you can go without protection caps. I have done this for years now and I have always preferred the 'naked' sound to the sound with a cap in place. But you going for shock and awe, putting a cap in is probably the more sensible way...

jlyons
12-16-2015, 09:43 AM
I have an early Olympus S7, which is about 6 cubic feet, and unvented, which originally housed a LE15 and LE85. Your 2226 and K145 both model within 1dB in WinISD, but of course the 2226 can handle more power. If your cabinets have no cutout for the UHF, you might consider utilizing the horn cutout (4.13"dia) as a vent for 40Hz without a tube-then you could place your 2445, horn, and 240x above. Such a solution (topbox) preserves the cabinet and allows use of a variety of horns-avoiding the H93. If the Olympus is away from the wall, the crossover aperture in the back panel could be used as a vent... I have a 136HS +LE85 rear vented which needs development(read: midbridge)... earlier posts suggest additional bracing for the Olympus.) Without vent tuning, your bass begins to fade below 100 Hz, above typical boundary reinforcement.