cables affecting sound?

[pyonc]

Hi friends,

Currently I'm using unbalanced 1/4 TRS cables (unbalanced) for my active crossover(JBL 5234A), preamp( JBL SG520) and power amps(Crown DC300 II, JBL SE408s) for JBL 4343 in biamped mode.
Specifically, two 1/4 TRS to RCAs (for Xover, and power amp for MF/HF), and one 1/4 TRS to TRS (for power amp LF).
I understand there are some brands of unbalanced TRS on the market such as HOSA, Mogami, Canare, Kirlin, GLS, etc.
I'm using HOSA at the moment for its reasonable price and good sound quality.
Do the TRS cables really affect the quality of sound, according to the brands? If so, how much?
For example, Mogami is mostly used in studios for its excellent quality, I hear. I'm tempted to buy Mogami TRS at the moment.
Thanks for your feedback and comment in advance.

[Wagner]

Hi friends,

Currently I'm using unbalanced 1/4 TRS cables (unbalanced) for my active crossover(JBL 5234A), preamp( JBL SG520) and power amps(Crown DC300 II, JBL SE408s) for JBL 4343 in biamped mode.
Specifically, two 1/4 TRS to RCAs (for Xover, and power amp for MF/HF), and one 1/4 TRS to TRS (for power amp LF).
I understand there are some brands of unbalanced TRS on the market such as HOSA, Mogami, Canare, Kirlin, GLS, etc.
I'm using HOSA at the moment for its reasonable price and good sound quality.
Do the TRS cables really affect the quality of sound, according to the brands? If so, how much?
For example, Mogami is mostly used in studios for its excellent quality, I hear. I'm tempted to buy Mogami TRS at the moment.
Thanks for your feedback and comment in advance.
Please delete this post and do not get a "which piece of wire sounds "better"" thread going
There's a lifetime's worth of opinions, arguments, charts, graphs, anecdotal tales and flames about your question (already) out there
You could literally read for years on the subject (uh, er waste of time) and still not know any more than what you started with
You cannot hear with your eyes and you cannot hear what another person hears (or THINKS they do)

Make wire buying decisions based on what your ears tell you (and, your common sense)

You cannot go wrong with Mogami wire if you select the correct cable for the specific application; others will disagree, I'm sure, and that is my point and the reason I ask you to nip this one in the bud

There are about a bazillion opinions on the net about wire, wire whisperers, magic wire, wire that will correct poor buying and matching decisions......................you name it............there's all you want already out there in the wild

Thank you very much,
Thomas

[Wagner]

To answer your question, the name written on a jacket has no effect on sound quality/performance/results, the quality of construction does

That said, certain "names" are synonymous with good construction and quality materials

Mogami and Belden being two of those, there are others

You can't go wrong with any of them, BUT to ask "which is better" is a losing game and a waste of time because ONLY YOU CAN ANSWER THAT QUESTION

[pyonc]

Please delete this post and do not get a "which piece of wire sounds "better"" thread going
There's a lifetime's worth of opinions, arguments, charts, graphs, anecdotal tales and flames about your question (already) out there
You could literally read for years on the subject (uh, er waste of time) and still not know any more than what you started with
You cannot hear with your eyes and you cannot hear what another person hears (or THINKS they do)

Make wire buying decisions based on what your ears tell you (and, your common sense)

You cannot go wrong with Mogami wire if you select the correct cable for the specific application; others will disagree, I'm sure, and that is my point and the reason I ask you to nip this one in the bud

There are about a bazillion opinions on the net about wire, wire whisperers, magic wire, wire that will correct poor buying and matching decisions......................you name it............there's all you want already out there in the wild

Thank you very much,
Thomas

Thanks for your frank opinion. And I know choosing specific brands is very much subjective, depending on one's preference. Still, as someone who has heard about this or that type of brand, known for its quality, I find myself strongly tempted to try out one or two brand cable. Mogami is certainly one such, for example.

[Wagner]

Thanks for your frank opinion. And I know choosing specific brands is very much subjective, depending on one's preference. Still, as someone who has heard about this or that type of brand, known for its quality, I find myself strongly tempted to try out one or two brand cable. Mogami is certainly one such, for example.
So, if you are willing to experiment, why pollute the process with others' subjective input?
Just do it
You can determine, objectively what many like by just looking at what is used in pro applications..................
So, no need to start what I will GUARANTEE YOU will devolve into a flame war, just like that absurd CD thread from a day or so ago
I can promise you, you will be happy with any wire you purchase made by Mogami, Belden or any of the high quality makers who also service the pro side of the industry
Redco has the best prices on bulk that I know of, good inventory of models as well
Here is a good reference tool:
http://www.mogamicable.com/pdf/Mogami_Tech_cat2014.pdf

[dr_gallup]

Thanks for your frank opinion. And I know choosing specific brands is very much subjective, depending on one's preference. Still, as someone who has heard about this or that type of brand, known for its quality, I find myself strongly tempted to try out one or two brand cable. Mogami is certainly one such, for example.

It's your money, spend it as you wish.

Personally, I'll never spend more than $10 on a cable and there are those that will say I spend too much. I do like reasonably well constructed cable and nice gold plated ends that don't corrode. Beyond that, I don't believe that cables make a hill of beans of difference but I'm sure I won't convince you or anyone else that wants to buy the snake oil brands. As others said, these types of posts are non productive.

[pyonc]

[QUOTE=Wagner;383104]
... I can promise you, you will be happy with any wire you purchase made by Mogami, Belden or any of the high quality makers who also service the pro side of the industry.../QUOTE]

Sure, Thanks. I've just ordered Mogami! :)

[pyonc]

It's your money, spend it as you wish.

Personally, I'll never spend more than $10 on a cable and there are those that will say I spend too much. I do like reasonably well constructed cable and nice gold plated ends that don't corrode. Beyond that, I don't believe that cables make a hill of beans of difference but I'm sure I won't convince you or anyone else that wants to buy the snake oil brands. As others said, these types of posts are non productive.

I got your point. As a budget buyer, I can't afford any expensive cables, of course. Three sets of quality Mogami cables (TRS/RCA, TRS/TRS) cost around $120, all together. Thanks!

[Wagner]

I got your point. As a budget buyer, I can't afford any expensive cables, of course. Three sets of quality Mogami cables (TRS/RCA, TRS/TRS) cost around $120, all together. Thanks!
Did you go with Redco?
(yes, I am not affiliated but I am stumping for them: best inventory, best price, best on shipping charges and best on service (with a smile))
But whoever you ordered your stuff from, you will be pleased. The wire is beautifully made

[pyonc]

Did you go with Redco?
(yes, I am not affiliated but I am stumping for them: best inventory, best price, best on shipping charges and best on service (with a smile))
But whoever you ordered your stuff from, you will be pleased. The wire is beautifully made

Thanks for your info on Redco. Actually I ordered them from Pro Audio LA because I could find my cables more easily. :)

[Mr. Widget]

In answer to the original question, in my opinion the cables are the very last item I look at after EVERYTHING else has been taken care of.

FWIW: I also like Mogami along with a number of other brands.


Widget

[Challenger604]

In answer to the original question, in my opinion the cables are the very last item I look at after EVERYTHING else has been taken care of.

FWIW: I also like Mogami along with a number of other brands.


Widget
Can I agree with that?
12 gauge minimum! Period! As he says!

[pyonc]

Can I agree with that?
12 gauge minimum! Period! As he says!

Hum...... Mine is 16 awg for both LF and MF/HF, with cables 5ft each long from speakers to amps with 8 ohm load.

[pyonc]

In answer to the original question, in my opinion the cables are the very last item I look at after EVERYTHING else has been taken care of.

FWIW: I also like Mogami along with a number of other brands.


Widget

Re Mogami, I see some different model # for the the same type of cable. For example, one set of RCA to 1/4 TRS I've ordered is Mogami 2549, and the other set is Mogami 2964. Any difference between the two Mogamis in sound quality or purpose-wise? I see the following descriptions:

*Mogami 2549 Neglex Balanced Cable
*Mogami 2964 75 Ohm S/PDIF Coaxial Cable

[grumpy]

At audio frequencies, the differences will be minimal, but yes, they are purpose built for different tasks.

[pyonc]

At audio frequencies, the differences will be minimal, but yes, they are purpose built for different tasks.

So, for audio purpose, Mogami 2549 is the right one?

[grumpy]

I'm saying that it will matter more how you terminate the cable
for the kind of lengths typically used in a house.

You have more choices with the 2549. Both would work fine for
unbalanced connections. Whether one is "better" is your call.

In your case, I would probably use the 2549 and only connect the
shield at the source end.

[pyonc]

I'm saying that it will matter more how you terminate the cable
for the kind of lengths typically used in a house.

You have more choices with the 2549. Both would work fine for
unbalanced connections. Whether one is "better" is your call.

In your case, I would probably use the 2549 and only connect the
shield at the source end.
Got it. Thanks!

[Wagner]

Hum...... Mine is 16 awg for both LF and MF/HF, with cables 5ft each long from speakers to amps with 8 ohm load.
Select according to that chart and you'll be just fine

[Wagner]

Got it. Thanks!
Read the catalog entries for the various model cables you might be interested in (I posted a link)
Then, look up any vocabulary you may not be familiar with; type in the new word or term followed by "electronics"
Actually teach yourself something about wire and cable besides reading ad copy or asking opinions
For example: can you accurately explain (the basics) of insertion loss to a random individual so that they could understand what it was?

Pretty soon you'll have enough knowledge and the subsequent confidence to stop fretting over which wire sounds "better" over another one (rather than looking to have someone tell you "yeah, that's the ticket")

It's an electrical conductor, Mogami doesn't make any junk. and any (measurable) difference between models that might be there because of construction types, you're not going to be able to hear it with a home system anyway

You have been too conditioned (or maybe programmed) with the "hi-fi" rags and marketing methodology of categorizing everything as "good" "better" or "best"................you have ordered some of the best wire possible to hook your stuff up with

Two pages in and we're still angsting over wire insecurity; I'd love to kick the boutique cable branders and audio scribes in the nuts for perpetrating this myth

You do realize that most, if not all "high end" cable is is someone else's wire either built/drawn to spec OR more commonly, simply purchased in bulk and all dressed up in fancy jackets and terminated with expensive ends don't you? They don't draw their own wire, they have it/buy it to spec. That doesn't mean it's good or bad, it just means that the ultimate aim is for the correct wire correctly made and there are many cheaper options out there that are just as good and maybe (probably) better (like Belden and Mogami to name but two) as for construction quality.
Most of the consumer branded audio cable on the market today was actually manufactured by someone other that who's name is on the jacket, AND that is subject to change from month to month and year to year.

Audio cable(s) needs to be properly and well made of good quality materials and the correct cable type for the given task; that is what you have purchased

STOP worrying about wire

[pyonc]

Read the catalog entries for the various model cables you might be interested in (I posted a link)
Then, look up any vocabulary you may not be familiar with; type in the new word or term followed by "electronics"
Actually teach yourself something about wire and cable besides reading ad copy or asking opinions
For example: can you accurately explain (the basics) of insertion loss to a random individual so that they could understand what it was?

Pretty soon you'll have enough knowledge and the subsequent confidence to stop fretting over which wire sounds "better" over another one (rather than looking to have someone tell you "yeah, that's the ticket")

It's an electrical conductor, Mogami doesn't make any junk. and any (measurable) difference between models that might be there because of construction types, you're not going to be able to hear it with a home system anyway

You have been too conditioned (or maybe programmed) with the "hi-fi" rags and marketing methodology of categorizing everything as "good" "better" or "best"................you have ordered some of the best wire possible to hook your stuff up with

Two pages in and we're still angsting over wire insecurity; I'd love to kick the boutique cable branders and audio scribes in the nuts for perpetrating this myth

You do realize that most, if not all "high end" cable is is someone else's wire either built/drawn to spec OR more commonly, simply purchased in bulk and all dressed up in fancy jackets and terminated with expensive ends don't you? They don't draw their own wire, they have it/buy it to spec. That doesn't mean it's good or bad, it just means that the ultimate aim is for the correct wire correctly made and there are many cheaper options out there that are just as good and maybe (probably) better (like Belden and Mogami to name but two) as for construction quality.
Most of the consumer branded audio cable on the market today was actually manufactured by someone other that who's name is on the jacket, AND that is subject to change from month to month and year to year.

Audio cable(s) needs to be properly and well made of good quality materials and the correct cable type for the given task; that is what you have purchased

STOP worrying about wire

Absolutely! I wish I had realized it a bit earlier. Thanks a lot again for your kind and detailed explanation on this wire topic.:applaud:

[Hoerninger]

Sometimes there are details which are not obvious at first sight.
I've got a cable from a chines trader via Amazon with a wonderful cinch plug turned from metal - no metal sheet- which is tight and easy to loose. And it is solderable.
68275 :thmbsup:


____________
Peter

[pyonc]

Sometimes there are details which are not obvious at first sight.
I've got a cable from a chines trader (not online anymore) via Amazon with a wonderful cinch plug turned from metal - no metal sheet- which is tight and easy to loose. And it is solderable.
68275 :thmbsup:


____________
Peter

Do you know its brand name?

[Wagner]

Do you know its brand name?
Don't know the full extent of all of your cable needs or projects, but this one is one of the best deals going for male RCAs
Termination (wire required) lengths are kept to a minimum, will fit in tight spaces and the build quality is good (there's really no such thing as a 75ohm RCA but this one comes pretty close)
And the best part? They're cheap (as in cost very little)
Last batch of these I bought last year were still marked and made in Liechtenstein (and they were the current version with the new style strain relief, used to be a metal spring type when they first appeared; more and more of the REAN branded and Neutrik stuff is coming out of china now
I love 'em:
http://www.redco.com/Rean-Neutrik-NYS373-Male-RCA-Plug.html

Same RCA that "clearaudio" charges about 5x as much for (they print their name on it of course):
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables.html

[Hoerninger]

Sunshine Tronic
Baumhaselring 80
14469 Potsdam
Deutschland
Tel.: 0175-2325581

I bought this one (not available any more):
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8FIS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Now they offer a shorter one:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8D3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_image_8&smid=A1JXZN98QQGJ7

(http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8D3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_image_8&smid=A1JXZN98QQGJ7)I suppose there are other offers which I do not know.
___________
Peter

[pyonc]

Don't know the full extent of all of your cable needs or projects, but this one is one of the best deals going for male RCAs
Termination (wire required) lengths are kept to a minimum, will fit in tight spaces and the build quality is good (there's really no such thing as a 75ohm RCA but this one comes pretty close)
And the best part? They're cheap (as in cost very little)
Last batch of these I bought last year were still marked and made in Liechtenstein (and they were the current version with the new style strain relief, used to be a metal spring type when they first appeared; more and more of the REAN branded and Neutrik stuff is coming out of china now
I love 'em:
http://www.redco.com/Rean-Neutrik-NYS373-Male-RCA-Plug.html

Same RCA that "clearaudio" charges about 5x as much for (they print their name on it of course):
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/remotes-cables-accessories-tweaks/13000-how-solder-illustrated-diy-guide-making-your-own-cables.html

Great! Thank much.

[pyonc]

Sunshine Tronic
Baumhaselring 80
14469 Potsdam
Deutschland
Tel.: 0175-2325581

I bought this one (not available any more):
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8FIS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Now they offer a shorter one:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8D3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_image_8&smid=A1JXZN98QQGJ7

(http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003GM8D3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_image_8&smid=A1JXZN98QQGJ7)I suppose there are other offers which I do not know.
___________
Peter

Oh, it's from Germany! Thanks much for your info.

[Wagner]

Oh, it's from Germany! Thanks much for your info.
I doubt very seriously that those cables are manufactured in Germany; Sunshine Tronic?!
Sounds more like an importer
In fact, I would bet money on it.
The copyright date on their website is 2008
Similar to another brand that's popular right now on Amazon, here in the U.S.A.: "Twisted Veins"
In fact, their product bears such a striking resemblance (and catalog content) I'd bet they are coming out of the same factory

I wrote them for confirmation as to the country of origin; we'll see if they respond

Not implying there is anything "wrong" with the cables, just that they are all sourced from the most competitive bid and the rest is just packaging and the cloth wrap appeal
(my wife bought some of the "Twisted Veins", she didn't understand that much much more cable could be had for much much less)
At least the HDMI cables are available now at reasonable prices, member when they first cam out?

I avoid chinese wire whenever possible

[Hoerninger]

I doubt very seriously that those cables are manufactured in Germany; Sunshine Tronic?!
In fact, I would bet money on it.



I've got a cable from a chines trader via Amazon




I avoid chinese wire whenever possible

any Samsung, iWhatsoever?
___________
Peter

PS: I have pointed to a quality cinch plug. There are differences.

[Wagner]

any Samsung, iWhatsoever?
___________
Peter
chinese of unknown origin is what I meant
The containers and containers and containers of the crap, sold under 50 different "brand names"
Some chinese product is absolutely unavoidable today, but I try to only buy it if it was manufactured in a well documented environment (like the passive parts from Panasonic, Nichicon, Vishay etc)
Or hardware from a reputable ISO certified maker like Rotel

"Sunshine Tronic" hearkens back to the good old days of the chinese word play on popular American brands, "Blue Bird" was a poplar one through the '80s for everything from SUPER CHEAP shit hand tools to cheap car radios; still see it from time to time at the .99 cent store

They have become a bit more sophisticated with their branding in this century; now everything sounds like something from a video game

And again, I am not talking chinese made goods coming out of ISO 9001 certified factories, different conversation
I am talking about the shit you probably shouldn't bring home unless you have your own Geiger counter

[Challenger604]

chinese of unknown origin is what I mean
The containers and containers and containers of the crap, sold under 50 different "brand names"
Some chinese product is absolutely unavoidable today, but I try to only buy it if it was manufactured in a well documented environment (like the passive parts from Panasonic, Nichicon, Vishay etc)
Or hardware from a reputable ISO certified maker like Rotel

"Sunshine Tronic" hearkens back to the good old days of the chinese word play on popular American brands, "Blue Bird" was a poplar one through the '80s for everything from SUPER CHEAP shit hand tools to cheap car radios; still see it from time to time at the .99 cent store

They have become a bit more sophisticated with their branding in this century; now everything sounds like something from a video game

And again, I am not talking chinese made goods coming out of ISO 9001 certified factories, different conversation
I am talking about the shit you probably shouldn't bring home unless you have your own Geiger counter

Samsung is not Chinese.

[Wagner]

Samsung is not Chinese.
I am well aware of that
But still, Samsung is Korean like Apple is American; probably not quite as bad
Guess you didn't actually read my post, that or can't understand what it says
I wrote a second attempt at stating the point and then the site went down
Ah well