Need Advice On The L-110

[Scooter]

Greetings,

A few months ago, I purchased a pair of L-110s from Hawthorne Stereo in Seattle. They are in fair condition, but need some attention. These were my first real speakers, and I still love them, and I am looking forward to getting them back to to their original condition--or reasonably close. Toward that end, I need some input.

What concerns might there be with the crossover being about 27 years old? I know about electrolytic cap deterioration. Nothing visibly wrong. I am considering enlisting Meniscus Audio to do a rebuild of the crossover using the JBL schematic for this as a guide, trying to retain the original sonic character as much as possible--if possible. Does anyone think that this is ill-advised?

Secondly, how does an aftermarket recone kit compare to the original? Simply Speakers claims that they have kits that are very good quality, at about 80 dollars less. I am almost certain tht I will go with a factory kit--unless I can be given a good reason not to.

Lastly, is there a meaningful sound degradation when using L-pads, as in the L-110? I intend to try a listening test without the L-pads, using external EQing instead. By meaningful, I mean to say objectively and measurably different to the extent that it could result in a subjective difference?

There's more, but I don't want to be greedy with my first post.

Many thanks,

Scott

[4313B]

"I am looking forward to getting them back to to their original condition--or reasonably close"

Use cone and diaphragm kits from JBL. Use the L110A network, or at least bypass the L110 caps (see http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=3555). Replace the stock 10285 L-Pads with the JBL 58450 L-Pads.

[maggnepan]

Hi scooter..good plans for the L110s..I too ran across a pair a year ago and have restored them to as new cosmetic condition. I found a new pair of tweeters at Freds sound of music in portland, or. They still have a pair if you need them..the mids were perfect, but I had Brownell Sound, the local jbl dealer repair the foam on the woofers for 5o eaach...the l pads are better quality than in my L100s and did not even have any noise in them, but i shot some spray contact cleander in them for good measure. A lot of work on that cabinet and I was back in business with the jbls. I did not do a crossover rebuild. I examined the crossovers and they seemed to be in good shape, no visiable leaks or other signs of age..so i left will enough alone for now...I am really pleased with the speakers...fab sound and amazing overall for being so small and old...they really outshine several other pairs of jbls i have on hand.. they have a unbelievable frequency extension at top and bottom, and the mid range is verrrrry smoooooth.......I am a happy camper with them..They share a heritage with the L112 and the L150..same drivers on the top end and similar crossover topology. I use the active subwoofer from the L112 system with them and have flat bass down to 20 htz...very impressive....hope this encourages you..they are really worth restoring......

[Scooter]

Thank you for the suggestions. I had planned on using the N110 schematic to work off of, but now I will try taking the "A" train instead. Looks like I could have done a more thorough search before posting. Thanks for not chastising, as so many other groups are fond of doing.

Is there an advantage to using the 58450 L pads versus buying a new pair from someplace like Parts Express? How about internal wiring? I have been using 14 gauge copper mostly. Some like the Nordost from Madisound, but then, wouldn't you need to use equally high quality wire all the way back to the amp?
I'd appreciate a suggestion too for damping material. The cabinets still have most of the original fiberglass, but it stinks and has to go.

To Magnepan, I have also owned a pair of L112s. They were great too. I hope to make a pair of them my next upgrade. Truly a case of not knowing what you have got until they're gone. I have tried MANY speakers since the mid '80s. Just cannot find that listenability in others. Back then, I had built a 20 Hz box using JBL plans--12 cubic feet--using the 2245 woofer. Also had another of slightly less volume using the E155. The 20 Hz box was not the best use of that woofer at that time. More a curiosity than functionality. I ran both subs with Carver monoblocks in my modest-sized home. One summer, I had a visit from some lightning, courtesy of a Canadian cold front, and it damaged the amps --also filled the house with the unmistakable aroma of quick-fried voice coils. It was a bad day. I have had to back off on the bass since then due to tinitis. I used to stick my head up inside JBL "double scoops" while playing dance music at near rated power. Long since gave up my wicked ways. Sure had fun though.

Scott

[boputnam]

jbl-100 (three pairs)
jbl 166 horizon (two pair)
jbl P-30 (made in denmark)
jbl L-26
Magneplanars MGIII
dahlquist m-905 monitors
celestion dl-4
mission 756 i
infinity qe
infinity transmission line colums (with the famous walsh tweeter)
Dood! You and Scooter are gonna have to get a room! :rotfl:

And, you are both way behind in posting some pics of your great collections! :yes: Unless I missed them on someother Thread...

[Scooter]

Picture will come when they are picture-worthy. Now are just empty cabinets awaiting (expensive) new parts. How's the weed in northern California--Dood!?

[boputnam]

How's the weed in northern California--Dood!? From what I can tell watching the band heading into their last set - and the jams that then evolve - it is just fine! Makes for some extra work at the console, though... :banghead:

[Scooter]

As I mentioned before in this thread, I am considering having a modernized clone N110A network built for my L110s, but for now I am settling for simply bypassing the N110's caps per the information provided here. Going to start with Dayton's film and foil, as they are relatively cheap. Two questions come to mind: I have been reading about capacitors on the North Creek site, and it is suggested that cascade bypassing is preferable to reach the desired value, in 5 to 25% increments, because it provides a more continuous sound versus using one capacitor. Has anyone done a comparison? Which type of capacitor will be a good choice for replacing the electrolytics on the N110? I surmise that I will be doing some experimenting, as there are a daunting number of products to try, but I could use some suggestions on this--it could save me some aggravation and...D'oh! Thanks.

Scott