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Triumph Don
06-24-2003, 06:43 PM
I have read the distain for Century 100's. What would be recomended componets in this size cabinet?

Mr. Widget
06-24-2003, 06:58 PM
Don't feel compelled to change a pair of L-100s simply because others don't like them. There are plenty of people who love them.

I have a pair I drag out from time to time. I hook them up to an old Marantz receiver and get a real blast from the past.

If you have a pair of empty L-100 cabinets lying around, well that is different. What to do with them would depend on what you are after.

Triumph Don
06-24-2003, 07:07 PM
I do have a pair of empty 100's. I also have an old Crown DC 300 A and a Carver CT 17 pre amp/tuner, would like a low DB bedroom system. Any ideas?

Mr. Widget
06-24-2003, 08:07 PM
I guess I would get the components for a 4312. It may be cheaper to buy a pair on eBay with messed up cabinets than to buy the parts separately.

I think the 4312 is a significant improvement over the L-100, but that is only one person's opinion.

4313B
06-24-2003, 08:25 PM
"I have read the distain for Century 100's. What would be recomended componets in this size cabinet?"

"Don't feel compelled to change a pair of L-100s simply because others don't like them. There are plenty of people who love them."

Mr. Widget is right. It's what you like that matters. Take JBL for instance, if they actually paid attention to what all the "audiophiles" said about their products they probably would have bagged the whole loudspeaker building endeavor by now.

I personally love to rag on the L100/4310/4311 because it is such a "minimal" system. They don't come much simpler from a filter design standpoint. Nevertheless, they were wildly popular. Their components were extremely well built and the overall desired system effect was achieved. In short, they were a complete success.

GordonW
06-24-2003, 11:02 PM
Mr. Widget is also right about looking for a cosmetically or structurally damaged (cabinet) pair of something, to rob for parts. It'll be MUCH cheaper than buying the parts seperately. For example, here's the main parts in an L100, and what, IME, they tend to run as far as typical prices on Ebay or at parts places:

Woofer: 123A-1, 12" (or alternatively, the 2213H, as that's what JBL recommends as an OEM replacement these days), typically $100-200 each depending on condition

Midrange: LE5-2, 5" (or LE5-10, as a recommended OEM replacement, or 2105, the mid driver used in some 4311s and/or 4312s), $40-80 each.

Tweeter: LE20-1 (IME, LE25 or LE26 should also work), 1.75" cone tweeter, $75-100 each


As you can see, you could easily run up $700 or more in drivers, buying them seperately, and still not have the crossovers. However, you may be able to find a pair of L100s, 4310s, 4311s, or 4312s with bad cabinets, for less than half of that price...

If I had a good set of empty L100 cabinets, I might be inclined to build a more "modern" JBL system in there. Here's an idea, though it would take a custom crossover (cloning the one for the 120Ti as a starting point, might work with a few tweaks)

Woofer: 128H-1 (the woofer from the 120Ii, will go lower than the 123A, also less boomy in the bass IMHO). Would require re-tuning the port in the L100 cabinet (port probably would need to be longer)

Midrange: 104H2 or H3 (the newer felted paper mid, MUCH flatter than the LE5-2)

Tweeter: 035TiA

You wouldn't spend any more than the L100 parts for these, and IMHO, you'd have a system that could beat the pants off of an L100 in response linearity, while still having the great transient response and "rockability" of the L100...

Regards,
Gordon.

GordonW
06-24-2003, 11:09 PM
Heh, I just went and looked up the 4312C, like Mr. Widget suggested. Looks like exactly what I was suggesting above, except it still uses the 2213 woofer. Looks like great minds (almost) think alike... :D

I would still think the 128H with the 120Ti crossover, would sound better close-up, for a laid-back-type bedroom system. Actually having a crossover on the woofer, is a good think IMHO...

Regards,
Gordon.

Triumph Don
07-01-2003, 08:12 PM
Gordon-Can you tell me, in your opion, the difference in sound between the 126 A, 128 H, and the 123 for my small room L 100 project? And I read Dave Platek put LE14's in these cabinets! How? Thanks!

boputnam
07-01-2003, 08:23 PM
Bo, here...

I'll toss in my two bits: I swapped into my 4312's L/R the 128H (on the esteemed advice of Giskard...) and couldn't be more pleased. As GordonW posted, the 128H simply has more at the low-end, and is seemingly a better overall transducer than the 2213H (4312) or the 123A (L100).

POLARITY COMMENT!!! The 123A (L100) is "positive", a lone bull amongst the JBL family (most all are negative). "Positive" means cone excursion is out on positive signal. So, if you are inclined to swap-in either a 2213H or the 128H (both are negative and will fit right into the baffle cutout) make sure and cross wire the transducer. That is, connect the solid green to BLACK and the green/black to RED binding posts. That will honor the factory polarity if the L100 cabinet.

Thus sayeth JBL... ;)

More on Transducer Polarity, here: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9

Rex Mills
07-01-2003, 09:01 PM
"POLARITY COMMENT!!! The 123A (L100) is "positive", a lone bull amongst the JBL family (most all are negative)"

Bo..I'm glad you pointed that out as just today I installed a pair of 123A's in some L 166 cabs while the woofers are out for recone. That explains the hollow midrange.:confused:
I was not sure what the problem was. Thought it might be hearing the 123A with a 2nd order crossover for the 1st time rather than wide open like they are in the L 100.
Get out the screwdriver again Ma :)

GordonW
07-03-2003, 12:32 AM
Don,

I've not used the 126H, so can't really comment there...

As far as 123A vs. 128... well, the 128 has a more rigid cone and a foam surround... both of which seem to act to reduce the "bumpiness" and boominess of the FR of the 123A. Now, there IS a compromise there (nothing is ever free)... the 123A does have slightly more attack on midbass. However, if you use the 104H2/H3, IIRC, it can be crossed over a bit lower than a LE5-2... which may make up a little bit of the attack.

BTW: I've got a pair of L100s here, that were sort of "donated" to the store I work at (abandoned is a more accurate word), and in which, due to the out-of-stock condition of 123A cone assemblies from JBL, we reconed with a 128-style cone, the fabric surround of the 123A, and the original geometry 123A voice coil. Once I get the mids up and running (currently have one dead LE5-2), it'll be interesting to see how a "hybrid" woofer will work...

Regards,
Gordon.