4343B rotary switch bypass single amp mode.

[warpig]

First off I do not mind criticism so if anyone sees something that may be wrong please lets get it corrected. Hope this helps some.

This is for the 4343B. Not sure if it is the same for other models. Goal is to bypass the rotary switch in single amp mode not biamp mode and to install new binding post on the LF (low Frequency) side. I left the switch in place in case in the future someone would like to use it. In the future I would like to upgrade the network and rewire. This is a cheap and fast upgrade. At this time I did not want to remove the networks so I did not follow the wiring into the networks and for this work there should be no need to unless the networks have been modified. If they were modified I would have went deeper. This is a stock 3143 network. Also make sure the wires on the rotary switch are the same color as on my switch. If not do not proceed.

This picture is of the rotary switch in the single amp mode. As you can see I have numbered the switch. There are 2 levels on the switch the same numbering system applies to the lower part also. As you can see in single amp mode 1 yellow and 2 green do not make contact. 2 green and 3 brown do make contact. This is true for the rest of the switch.
65857

For reference this is the switch in biamp mode. As you can see the 1 yellow is now making contact with the 2 green.65858

The picture below shows that the HF (high frequency) side has 2 posts that are not joined (connected). The LF side has 2 posts that are joined (connected).
65859

[warpig]

The following steps are what I did to bypass the switch in single amp mode. Reference the single amp mode picture above for numbering of the switch.

1. Cut black wire 2 places on HF negative and upper switch position 6. 65860

2. Cut black wire 2 places LF negative and upper switch position 4. 65861

3. Cut blue wire 1 place on upper switch 5.
65862

4. Cut black wire 1 place lower switch 12.
65863

[warpig]

5. Cut 1 side HF negative side black wire that goes back into box and connect this wire blue wire going back into box and black wire on LF negative binding post.
65864

6. Cut black wire 2 places lower switch 11 and at HF negative.
65865

7. Cut white wire with black stripe 2 places lower switch 10 and HF negative post.
65866

8. Cut orange 12 and white 11 upper switch one place each then join them together. These go back into box.
65867

[warpig]

9. Cut green 2 and brown 3 upper switch one place each then join them together. These go back into box.
65868

10. Cut yellow wire 2 places upper switch 1 and LF positive.
65869

11. Cut yellow wire with black stripe 2 places lower switch 7 and HF positive post.
65870

12. Cut yellow wire 2 places upper switch 10 and HF positive post.
65871

[warpig]

13. Cut yellow wire 2 places lower switch 8 and at HF positive post.
65872

14. Cut yellow wire 2 places upper switch 8 and HF positive post.
65873

15. Cut yellow 1 place on HF positive post. This wire goes back into box. I did not take a picture of it cut but cut it where shown.
65874

16. Cut red wire 1 place upper switch 9. Wire goes back into box.
65875

[warpig]

17. Cut yellow wire 1 place lower rotary 9.
65876

18. Join red and yellow that goes back into box with yellow off of the LF positive post.
65877

19. While I was at it I decided to change the LF positive and negative post. When I did this it allowed me to get rid of the yellow wire on the LF positive post and the black wire on the LF negative post.
65878

20. I then soldered all joints (connections).

[Goldjazz]

Nicely done Warpig. You've done a much better job documenting this than I had planned to. My switch was similarly corroded and nasty. Many of the contact points were no longer making proper contact and at least one was also shorting on the screws holding the thing in. As mentioned in the other thread I noticed an improvement in biamp mode removing it out of the path, hope you did too

[warpig]

Goldjazz thanks. I know some of this stuff can be unnerving. I wanted to make it so most anyone could do it. If someone has a set of 4343B speakers and the wire coloring is the same as mine then this should work as long as the network was not modified previously. I am going to follow this thread for a little while, while it is still fresh in my head in case I can answer any questions. Also would recommend anyone doing this to take pictures and do one speaker at a time and test when one is completed.

Myself I did one speaker then did a test using different frequency test tones from the link below. You can download wav files.
http://www.audiocheck.net/audiofrequencysignalgenerator_sinetone.php
Doing the test it became apparent I need to rebuild the networks. I do believe the caps are way out of tolerance.

Take Care
greg

[CJWessing]

Not sure if anyone is still watching this thread, but thanks for the very thorough write-up. I followed it step by step and was able to get to basically the same place except I modified my speakers to use all 4 binding posts to accept bi-wire cables and use external jumpers when required. When you look at the final configuration it's actually quite simple with the 8 wires coming out of the harness, I circled the BROWN-GREEN and ORANGE-WHITE switch connections on the diagram, the RED/BLUE are the LF inputs, and YELLOW/BLACK are the HF inputs.

The question I have is that I hooked up a frequency generator to only the LF binding posts (BLUE/RED on diagram), and when I do a frequency sweep I'm still able to hear some frequencies up to ~1000 Hz coming out of the LF driver. I assumed it would slope off faster than that and just wanted to make sure I don't have a connection wrong. Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

8821788218

[Riley Casey]

The low pass filter on the woofer is a second order 12db per octave slope. Assuming a crossover frequency around 250hz that puts 1khz down only 24db and easily audible with a sweep tone. All working as expected.


...
The question I have is that I hooked up a frequency generator to only the LF binding posts (BLUE/RED on diagram), and when I do a frequency sweep I'm still able to hear some frequencies up to ~1000 Hz coming out of the LF driver. I assumed it would slope off faster than that and just wanted to make sure I don't have a connection wrong. Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

8821788218

[warpig]

Riley
Came here tonight to say I was not sure. Thanks for answering because I was curious also. Glad someone else got some use out of this thread.
Thanks

[Paul001]

Good morning I would like to skip the rotating switch of my 4333B (bi-amp) someone did it?

[warpig]

I do not think the 4333B has a rotary switch.

[Paul001]

4333B has behind the internal-external rotary selector for bi-amp

[warpig]

4333B has behind the internal-external rotary selector for bi-amp

Okay sorry I looked for pictures but could not find any showing a rotary switch. Also I cant help because I have never worked on the 4333B.

Good luck
Greg

[Paul001]

Ok scusa ho cercato le immagini ma non ho trovato nessuna che mostri un interruttore rotante. Inoltre non posso aiutare perché non ho mai lavorato sul 4333B.

Buona fortuna
Greg


I think we are talking about this:


89706

[mibamb]

Nicely done Warpig. You've done a much better job documenting this than I had planned to. My switch was similarly corroded and nasty. Many of the contact points were no longer making proper contact and at least one was also shorting on the screws holding the thing in. As mentioned in the other thread I noticed an improvement in biamp mode removing it out of the path, hope you did toosorry, but does this switch have a value ( ampere ...) ?

[warpig]

sorry, but does this switch have a value ( ampere ...) ?Yes it has value if you intend to biamp the speakers.

[Robh3606]

Yes it has value if you intend to biamp the speakers.

The rating of the switch contacts in amps.

Rob :)

[warpig]

The rating of the switch contacts in amps. Rob :)I have know idea but I would imagen that if you burnt up the switch the speakers and crossovers would be toast.

[Ian Mackenzie]

https://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=313096

[Ian Mackenzie]

1. For simplicity can l suggest the following bi amp switch bypass on the above schematic
with red circles.
Connect the low amp + input terminal direct to the woofer+ terminal

Using new wires soldered to the input terminals and the switch set to external:
Connect the low amo - input terminal direct to the woofer - terminal

2. Connect the internal + input terminal to the input wire of the 1.7 mH choke per the schematic
Connect the internal - input terminal to the Lpad tab 1.

This will eliminate touching the switch terminals and simplify the task.

If you intend to continue with a full passive crossover build a new network and re wire. These old networks were never intended to be diy friendly.

[mibamb]

Yes it has value if you intend to biamp the speakers.hi Warpig, sorry I meant for a power signal ( ohm ), not a line signal, to create a passive bi-amplification. How many amps does the rotary switch need before entering the passive crossovers so as not to burn the components. A while ago I saw a modification by Luxman that put a 20A rotary switch. Is that right? But the switch that I am attaching what value does it have?

[warpig]

hi Warpig, sorry I meant for a power signal ( ohm ), not a line signal, to create a passive bi-amplification. How many amps does the rotary switch need before entering the passive crossovers so as not to burn the components. A while ago I saw a modification by Luxman that put a 20A rotary switch. Is that right? But the switch that I am attaching what value does it have?Not sure what you are attempting to do. Also I am not that technical of a person. I had no intentions of Biamping the 4343B speakers that's the reason for bypassing the switch. I left the switch in place with wire attached so if anyone wanted to reattach the switch it would be simple. If Luxman changed out the switch perhaps he is the best person to ask.