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alnico
10-17-2004, 07:37 PM
Hi,

I have a pair of L-26 , after having sanded , which product needs applied to wood for a finish original ? clear spray, or oil or other ?
The L-26 = natural oak.................

I would like to acquire a result to similair has.. ..L-26 at Wardsweb

Wardsweb
10-18-2004, 05:59 AM
The only thing applied after sanding was Deft.

4313B
10-18-2004, 06:01 AM
Maintaining JBL Furniture Finishes (http://lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/reference/general/finish.htm)

Watco Natural can be used for oiled finishes.

4313B
10-18-2004, 06:04 AM
Originally posted by Wardsweb
The only thing applied after sanding was Deft. Yeah, I used Deft on the last pair of 4313/L96 hybrids I built. I veneered them with white oak.

Steve Gonzales
10-18-2004, 11:38 AM
Both Watco untinted natural and Deft are exactly what you use. Put the Watco on and 'push it in to the grain and let it sit for 30minutes and wipe it off thoroughly then apply a second coat if the depth of the color is not to your liking, then after that has been wiped down thoroughly, let it 'cure for at least 5 hours (I let mine sit overnght) then spray 3 fairly good coats of Deft on them. The Deft will dry hard very quickly at around 72degress or so. The problem with high gloss Deft is that you will probably have some shiney spots and some dull ones if you are not an expert or lucky. I like to use satin. The satin will do the same thing too but after the final coat is cured for an hour, you can take a green fine grit scotchbrite pad like your wife uses to do the dishes with and dampen it slightly then 'burnish' it to a Matte luster. Use super light pressure with the grain keeping the pad tapped out of debris and keeping it moist for lubrication. Do this just to even out the sheen. if you can't get this process to work you can always spray another coat on them and live with that. Here are my results using these very products and proceedures. Good luck!

alnico
10-19-2004, 06:28 AM
Originally posted by Wardsweb
The only thing applied after sanding was Deft.

But i applied one coat Deft Lacquer Sanding Sealer ? and after Deft Clear Wood Finish ?
Or Deft Clear directly on natural oak?


tanks

droh
10-19-2004, 06:40 AM
Just to be clear here, you are going for a finish different than the originals on these boxes - correct? The Deft product I beleive is a lacquer finish. This will give you a harder and probabaly glossier finish than the original. From what i know the original finish on those L26s was the usual JBL "hand rubbed oil finish" which would be more closely replicated with a mixture of Linseed oil and turpentine or a commercial product like Minwax Antique Oil Finish.

Wardsweb
10-19-2004, 08:42 AM
Originally posted by alnico
But i applied one coat Deft Lacquer Sanding Sealer ? and after Deft Clear Wood Finish ?
Or Deft Clear directly on natural oak?


tanks

I sanded the cabinet with 320 grit paper and a sanding block. Then 600 grit paper and finished with some 1000 grit. This leaves a VERY smooth finish, almost with a sheen to it. I then sprayed semi-gloss DEFT finish directly onto the wood. (Gloss is to much IMO) I followed with two more coats, waiting about 30 minutes between coats.

If you want a matte finish, after they have set for a few hours, you can sand them with some white scotchbrite. NOT the green stuff, but the white which is very fine. I guess you could use 1000 or 1500 grit paper too. Just sand lightly until you get the finish you want.

Steve Gonzales
10-19-2004, 09:03 AM
I have been a cabinet finisher for 20years and in my opinion using 600 and 1000 grit is WAY over board and going to scratch his finish coat because he would have to be shown in person how to get a good result plus it would clog really quick when using it to sand the Deft. I think it is too much for the unfinished wood too. JBL didn't even go that far. 320 is about the finest grit I would use. Since you go progressively finer, feel how smooth even 220 will get the surface. I agree a novice should use a white Scotchbrite pad, I have years of practice, and it is easy to go with the green, still super-light pressure is needed moving with the grain with the white too and I dampen mine. Try it with and try it without and see what works for you. When you start to see scratches in the deft, you will know its time to try it damp.

sonofagun
10-21-2004, 12:57 PM
I used to finish oak or walnut by applying a good oil finish (I used something called "Swedish Oil") to the veneer - one or more coats depending on how dark you want the finish - oil tends to help bring out the natural color(s) of the wood. After it dries, sand lightly and then apply Deft. After Deft dries, rub to satin sheen using very fine steel wool dipped in same oil.

Old cabinetmaker I knew swore by genuine tung oil handrubbed into the wood...is a traditional finish IF you don't mind the work!

Whatever, try any finish process on some sample pieces to see which you like.

alnico
10-21-2004, 04:31 PM
tanks you

analogman
10-21-2004, 05:07 PM
In my opinion, the only correct finish for these boxes would be BOILED LINSEED OIL. The results will be stunning and will only deepen and become richer in texture with time and with repeated "coats". You can make adjustments to your colour either by adding a little stain to the linseed oil OR if desired, stain the boxes first. Spraying or brushing crap on real wood veneer is a crime. On some projects that are particularly rough, I will seal with pure tung oil, but this is rare and only as needed. This type of veener should be "French polished" ONLY! It will also preserve and enhance JBL's original type patina.

With regards,
Analogman

analogman
10-21-2004, 05:21 PM
Another thought,
If, for some reason you DO NOT like the results of my suggestion, it can easily be undone with the can of your choice with NO SANDING or further compromise of the already thin veneer.
As always,
Analogman

Mr. Widget
10-21-2004, 05:32 PM
Analogman,

It depends on the look you are after. The original finish on the L26s was a "contemporary" very light colored oak. A linseed oil on them will give it a look that may be more appropriate in some interior designs but not go well with others. The darker look is more appropriate on a vintage look. In any event it will not result in a look that matches the original, especially after time.

Widget

alnico
10-21-2004, 05:42 PM
but antique danish oil it's OK ? or BOILED LINSEED OIL or tung oil ?

I would like to acquire a result original .........original look


What difference finishing ......danish oil and BOILED LINSEED OIL or tung oil?

analogman
10-21-2004, 05:43 PM
I did not say it would "match", I said it would "preserve and enhance". STRAIGHT (NO STAIN) boiled linseed oil will not darken the wood so severely that it will loose it's "contemporary flavour" as it has already been stained. I do agree that it will certainly add depth and richness that the original never had.

With regards,
Analogman

Audiobeer
10-21-2004, 06:26 PM
I believe on virgin wood or wood that has been completely stripped with the pores relieved of all foriegn material the way to go would be a linseed oil finish. It indeed looks beautiful and if a mantainence coat is applied every so often the patina is actualy enhanced over time. However if in fact there is any material such as the owner already has applied, it will actualy be detrimental. I also agree with another who stated that anything over 220 is overkill. With what finish has been applied I would try some good old elbow grease and rub #0000 steel wool with the grain being careful not to catch any loose edges. Should look good!

Steve Gonzales
10-21-2004, 06:28 PM
I think it has been established that he likes the look of the L26 on the Ward's web site, given that, wardsweb himself has told him first hand how to go about it and although my proceedures vary slightly from his, the basic combination of products used to achive that desired finish is right. The pictures I have attached may be of walnut veneer, a picture is worth a thousand words. Stick with the Watco & Deft. They are easy to use and the results are fantastic !. Now go get some , do your thing and post the results. Good Luck.

Audiobeer
10-21-2004, 06:35 PM
That indeed looks beautifil Steve!!!!:)

alnico
10-21-2004, 06:49 PM
Yessss Steve is very good job........

Steve Gonzales
10-21-2004, 06:56 PM
Thank you !. Not to throw a change-up in the mix but, I actually use Minwax finishing wax in between the Watco and the Deft. After 20 years of doing cabinets, i was looking for a process to give the wood an aged 3D patina and depth so I found that this step gives that result without waiting 15-20years. I explained the process in one of my other posts about L220 and L222's. I LOVE THIS SITE!!!!!!!!!!!!

alnico
11-21-2004, 09:52 PM
i finished my project .........restoration of my JBL L-26 see pictures

tanks

http://img127.exs.cx/img127/103/JBLL-262restauration16oct2004.jpg

alnico
11-21-2004, 09:53 PM
http://img127.exs.cx/img127/9803/JBLL-261restauration17oct200400001.jpg

alnico
11-21-2004, 09:54 PM
http://img127.exs.cx/img127/6746/JBLL-2602peinturenoire.jpg

alnico
11-21-2004, 09:55 PM
http://img127.exs.cx/img127/1473/JBLL-2604final.jpg


http://img127.exs.cx/img127/6689/JBLL-2606final.jpg

alnico
11-21-2004, 10:05 PM
I use antique danish oil ( Circa 1850 ) 2 coat ( NO CLEAR ) and
for front and rear i use 1 coat of primer Krylon and
i use black paint ..Krylon semi flat black 2 coat

johnaec
11-21-2004, 11:32 PM
Beautiful! The shine is amazing!

John

Wardsweb
11-22-2004, 06:39 AM
I know it was a whole lot of work, but worth it. Nice Job.

Steve Gonzales
11-22-2004, 06:21 PM
They look AWESOME, Good job!!!, BTW,Watco IS Danish oil.

Audiobeer
11-28-2004, 08:30 PM
They look great! Well worth the time! How do they sound. Did you put them back together yet?