Long awaited 1501Fe - Edgarhorn project

[spkrman57]

Pre-amp – Counterpoint Solid 8A
Amp – Soundcraftman PM-860 Mosfet 200 wpc @ 8 ohms

Tuner Denon TU-450
CD player – AudioNote AN-CD2.1x tube buffered output

Crossover – passive 2nd order LF @ 1100Hz(Bessel) – 3rd order HF @ 1800Hz w/att-EQ passive

LF driver – JBL 1501Fe 15” 93 db/watt installed in 3 cu ft cabinet port tuned to approx 35Hz

HF driver – JBL 2445J/Be on 350Hz round tractix horn

Future design will be bi-amped to facillitate tube amp on the horns!

Currently I have to say the crossover is not best for this 2-way, but sounds very promising with some tweaking, especially attenuating the horns (113db/w) to the woofer (93db/w).

The bass goes deep and very articulate! I could only imagine when I can afford custom cabs at the proper size and tuning

605166051760518Ron sends...

[spkrman57]

Playing pipe organ music and impressed with the minimal excursion of the 1501 while filling the room with plenty of LF energy!

The 2226 was my favorite driver until now!

I can't wait for the 1501's to reach full break-in!

Pics of 2226 - 1501 for comparison

Ron sends...6051960520

[Mostlydiy]

Looks promising. Wouldnt ~800Hz be a better cutoff for that kind of system?

/Mostly

[NickH]

I see you have quick access to your beer stock pile while listening:D.

Very cool setup.

[JuniorJBL]

Those are some mighty big woofers you got there!!

:applaud:

Congrats 57!!

[spkrman57]

Looks promising. Wouldnt ~800Hz be a better cutoff for that kind of system?

/Mostly

I'm waiting for my dbx driverack to come back home from on loan to a friend.

I just wanted to start the breadboard up for trying different ways of incorporating the 1501 and HF horn system.

The crossover was used for a different system and it allows me to listen to the 1501 and determine how I want it run in the future. Yes, I know it's not optimum but I can listen to it until I get what I need in the future.

When my financial means improve I will have cabs built for the 1501's.

Regards, Ron

[spkrman57]

Those are some mighty big woofers you got there!!

:applaud:

Congrats 57!!

I always liked the 2226's for their excellent midbass qualities.

The 1501 goes lower and still has some of the qualities of the 2226 that I like.

I still might use the 1501's for subs and run either E-145/2206/2226 for mid/midbass. This will be a work in progress for me.

This driver should have been available back in the day, it would have killed the competition big-time!

Thanks to all the folks who made my 1501Fe's possible!!! It's a shame this driver will quietly dissappear, but hard to argue Nd is not the way to go.

Regards, Ron

[spkrman57]

I see you have quick access to your beer stock pile while listening:D.

Very cool setup.

I do part time Bar-back work and the empty beer cases are good for storing a lot of things. And when they get old or fall apart I just recycle them.

Thanks for your kind thanks.

I can't wait until I can go digital x-over and use tubes on the HF.

Ron

[Mostlydiy]

I'm waiting for my dbx driverack to come back home from on loan to a friend.

I just wanted to start the breadboard up for trying different ways of incorporating the 1501 and HF horn system.

The crossover was used for a different system and it allows me to listen to the 1501 and determine how I want it run in the future. Yes, I know it's not optimum but I can listen to it until I get what I need in the future.

When my financial means improve I will have cabs built for the 1501's.

Regards, Ron

I get it, sounds reasonable.

Btw, I like your horns, the upper horns in my avatar is 320Hz tractrix also. They do a decent job down to about 500Hz with the right driver. Currently I use B&C DE75 because one of my 2441 needs a new diaphram :( The DE75 does a great job as substitutes I have to say.

/Mostly

[spkrman57]

Btw, I like your horns, the upper horns in my avatar is 320Hz tractrix also. They do a decent job down to about 500Hz with the right driver. Currently I use B&C DE75 because one of my 2441 needs a new diaphram :( The DE75 does a great job as substitutes I have to say.

/Mostly

You should try some Be phrams and hear how smooth they are.

I'm still struggling with the sheet BrushWellman included with my Be phrams that state recommended x-over of 1Khz @ 12db/oct. I'm thinking I want 750Hz and wondering if they are just covering their arse with the higher than usual recommendation.

Regards, Ron

[grumpy]

You can trade off lowering crossover freq with using steeper slope crossovers and/or lower power limits.
Keep in mind that 1/2 the freq is double the excursion, and there's not a lot of play in the dia to phase plug distance, which limits how far you can make such a trade off. Ask the Be folks if 750Hz @18 or 24dB/oct would still be ok... I'd guess, yes... especially for home use.

[cooky1257]

I have the 4008 Be phrams they recommend 500hz @24dB/oct minimum.

[pos]

Keep in mind that 1/2 the freq is double the excursionActually its 4 times the excursion for a given SPL, but the backcap will act as an acoustical HP filter with a 12dB/oct slope, keeping excursion constant.

I don't think there would be any problem with a 24dB/oct acoustic filter at 750Hz for home use. This will probably require something like a 12dB/oct electrical filter around that frequency (and some EQ).

The S9800 electric filter for example is a simple cap (6dB/oct), and results when added toghether with the natural rolloff of the horn and compression driver to something like a 24dB/oct LR filter. This is probably too low an electrical slope (and this was corrected in the S9900 I think) but at least it seems that no compression driver was hurt during the life of that speaker...

[grumpy]

Actually its 4 times the excursion for a given SPL....


thanks... That's what I thought I remembered, then re-read (or mis-read) a JBL tech note and figured I'd remembered wrong (doh).

http://www.jblpro.com/BackOffice/ProductAttachments/tn_v1n08.pdf

[spkrman57]

I will be using either a 8 or 9 wpc single ended tube for the horn, so I think 750Hz @ either 18db/oct or 24 db/oct should work well.

I also have a small room so I don't see much cranking levels anyways.

The 4365 spkr system uses a passive crossover @ 750Hz 3rd order LF and what looks to me like a 2 nd order HF. But that is Mg phrams and wonder if they are run close to their limits in that application?

Regards, Ron

[doucanoe]

Looking good over there, Ron! New toy's are always fun and it looks like you have some nice ones to play with. Good to see you getting back in the game again.

RC

[grumpy]

The 4365 spkr system uses a passive crossover @ 750Hz 3rd order LF and what looks to me like a 2 nd order HF.


As pos was pointing out, JBL has been combining the acoustic, low-end rolloff characteristics with the passive component electrical filter
to reach their crossover goals (such that a 2nd order HPF combined with some EQ and the horn/driver response may provide
a much steeper than 12dB/oct type overall response ... e.g., 24dB/oct). It would be fun to hear that system! :)

[cooky1257]

FWIW( unless they've change since I got mine.)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5537/10711715146_c60a5b4cc4_z.jpg

[grumpy]

For those that can't read the section of topic (I just barely could)... it's "...minimum recommended crossover at 500Hz with a 24dB per octave slope..."

[spkrman57]

My literature came with a 2012 Copyright date.

"Minium recommended crossover frequency is 1 Khz with a highpass slope of 12 db per octave or greater" is what I rechecked and read in my brochure.

Maybe they don't want to take chances...?

I may send them a e-mail and get their opinion.

Ron

added: I see your brochure looks like a 2009 copyright (bottom of last page!)

[spkrman57]

I think BW is just being cautious.

I'm running tubes when I get to bi-amp.

Ron

[grumpy]

Using Butterworth 12 and 18db/oct, L-R for 24dB/oct

(rough numbers)

1KHz/12 750Hz/18 500Hz/24
1000Hz -3dB -1dB 0dB

750Hz -6dB -3dB -1dB
500Hz -12dB -11dB -6dB
250Hz -24dB -28dB -24dB

so the later spec does give them a bit more protection
in the ~400-600Hz range

In the plot below (Rane), you'd need to slide the
responses up and down the frequency axis to make the
same comparison.

http://www.rane.com/n160fig5.gif

[cooky1257]

My literature came with a 2012 Copyright date.

"Minium recommended crossover frequency is 1 Khz with a highpass slope of 12 db per octave or greater" is what I rechecked and read in my brochure.

Maybe they don't want to take chances...?

I may send them a e-mail and get their opinion.

Ron

added: I see your brochure looks like a 2009 copyright (bottom of last page!)

Yeah 2009, I wonder if they've been getting failures and have amended as a precaution?

[spkrman57]

It looks like 18 db/oct @ 750 Hz looks good to me as far as being safe.

Ron sends...

[spkrman57]

I'm getting my dbx driverack pa + back Monday morning.

I'm thinking 1501 up to where midbass/midrange driver takes over.

Options for mid: E-145/2206/2226/Ev Sp-12 (I'm thinking 2206 best here) powered by single ended tube amp. either KT-88 or EL34.

HF is already good: JBL 2445/Be/350Hz Edgarhorn powered by 300B SET amp (my favorite amp!)

With either the JBL 2206 or EV SP-12 1Khz on the HF is no prob, in fact I would be comfortable @ 1200 Hz with those drivers.

I welcome comments here on this.

This will be a work in progress and I don't mind trying different drivers for the mid until I get the sound stage I'm looking for.

Regards, Ron

[Mostlydiy]

That means you are going three way I presume? Dont neglect 2202 and 2123 into your considerations...

/Mostly

[spkrman57]

That means you are going three way I presume? Dont neglect 2202 and 2123 into your considerations...

/Mostly

Except the ones I mentioned, I actually already have and I'm too poor to be buying anything else for the moment.

Regards, Ron

[spkrman57]

I think they are great drivers with that 4" voice coil and same magnet as 2226 should be a great mid driver.

Opinions wanted!

Also if anyone knows what to use as distance behind the 1501Fe the voice coil is. There is 2 windings and not sure what to use.

Regards, Ron

[badman]

I think they are great drivers with that 4" voice coil and same magnet as 2226 should be a great mid driver.

Opinions wanted!

Also if anyone knows what to use as distance behind the 1501Fe the voice coil is. There is 2 windings and not sure what to use.

Regards, Ron

I designed a system around 2206h and am very pleased- it can be run unfiltered, at home levels, without the breakup being too problematic.

[4313B]

Why would you want to put anything between the 1501FE and the horn? I must be missing something. ( Don't throw that horseshit about not using a fifteen up to a thousand cycles in my face :rotfl: )

I decided to use my 2206H's with some brand spanking new 2105H's and 052Ti's JBL hooked me up with a couple months ago. :p That's only because I can't afford another pair of 476Mg's. :rotfl:

[spkrman57]

Why would you want to put anything between the 1501FE and the horn? I must be missing something. ( Don't throw that horseshit about not using a fifteen up to a thousand cycles in my face :rotfl: ):

Okay I'll go 2-way and thinking 800Hz on up, but not sure of how much earlier to cut off the 1501's going by the 4365 crossover. This is the part where flexability with the driverack comes in I guess.

If the 1501Fe is mounted flush on the baffle board, how far back is the voice coil for delay setting purposes? I did a crude measurement before mounting these and I believe it was 5" back to the 1st coil winding. There is almost 3/4" between the 2 coil windings.

I'll be getting my driverack this weekend. Passive crossover I'm using is all wrong, but I have not had the time to build a dedicated one for this 2-way. I'll be trying bi-amp and passive over the next year to see how it all pans out.

Thanks, Ron sends...

[spkrman57]

For those that did not get the reference, I've been a big fan of running 2226's up to 1.6Khz for several years now.

I can't wait to go digital to see what works best.

Regards, Ron

[4313B]

Okay I'll go 2-way and thinking 800Hz on up, but not sure of how much earlier to cut off the 1501's going by the 4365 crossover. This is the part where flexability with the driverack comes in I guess.

If the 1501Fe is mounted flush on the baffle board, how far back is the voice coil for delay setting purposes? I did a crude measurement before mounting these and I believe it was 5" back to the 1st coil winding. There is almost 3/4" between the 2 coil windings.

I'll be getting my driverack this weekend. Passive crossover I'm using is all wrong, but I have not had the time to build a dedicated one for this 2-way. I'll be trying bi-amp and passive over the next year to see how it all pans out.

Thanks, Ron sends...I didn't like the sound of the 4365 network at all. You might want to look at the DD65000 network topology instead. 1501FE, 1501AL-1, whatever... ;)

I use the impulse responses of the two transducers to set the delay. I haven't measured a 1501FE yet.

[hlaari]

I didn't like the sound of the 4365 network at all. You might want to look at the DD65000 network topology instead. 1501FE, 1501AL-1, whatever... ;)

I use the impulse responses of the two transducers to set the delay. I haven't measured a 1501FE yet.

What did you not like with the sound of the 4365 network?

[spkrman57]

I didn't like the sound of the 4365 network at all. You might want to look at the DD65000 network topology instead. 1501FE, 1501AL-1, whatever... ;)

I use the impulse responses of the two transducers to set the delay. I haven't measured a 1501FE yet.

At least I can balance the driver outputs so they can be adjusted with the driverack to work in unison.

Ron sends...

[4313B]

What did you not like with the sound of the 4365 network?Too much energy in the 1 kHz to 2 kHz region as well as a little anomoly that irritated me just above the crossover region. Keep in mind that I was also using it with the 4338 front horn instead of the 4365 front horn (The 4338 and 4365 back horns are identical).


Ron, you might want to look at that $75 mic from miniDSP. It has references to REW5 as well. The combination of the two can be pretty powerful with minimal cash outlay. G.T. turned me on to REW5. Just a thought.

[hlaari]

[QUOTE=4313B;354967]Too much energy in the 1 kHz to 2 kHz region as well as a little anomoly that irritated me just above the crossover region. Keep in mind that I was also using it with the 4338 front horn instead of the 4365 front horn (The 4338 and 4365 back horns are identical).

But it is possible to use the network from the DD65000 for the 1501Fe, 476Mg and H4338/H4365 ?
Like Guido said one time, the back horn for the H66000 were similar like the back horn for the H4338 and H9800

[spkrman57]

[QUOTE=4313B;354967]
But it is possible to use the network from the DD65000 for the 1501Fe, 476Mg and H4338/H4365 ?
Like Guido said one time, the back horn for the H66000 were similar like the back horn for the H4338 and H9800

1501Fe and 1501Al are similiar somewhat.

Ron sends...

[Ian Mackenzie]

Hi Ron,

I have not been around much but you are having too much fun.

I would be flexible and trial several xover frequencies.

One thing I have found is that if you can find the point where the woofer dispersion arc is complimentary to that of the horn it will really make a big difference.

Because horns tend to loose the dispersion pattern at the low end the sweet point tends to be higher than you might realise.

Have a read of the white paper that Robert posted in the reference section on the 4430-4435

[Mostlydiy]

I can't wait to go digital to see what works best.

Regards, Ron

How are things working out for you?

/Mostly

[spkrman57]

How are things working out for you?

/Mostly

I picked up my Adcom 555 II amp from the tech Thanksgiving day(hum prob - loose ground strap fm power tranny).

Installed 555 in place of Soundcraftsman PM-860. Both amps are similiar in power and both Mosfet amps which are tubelike sounding to me. The 555 is a bit cleaner and more revealing soundstage wise.

So far I have settled on 18 db/oct BW slopes with 750Hz LF and 1Khz HF.

Lower frequencies did not sound as well to me. I have no Eq set at this time.

I don't have a microphone yet, holidays are taking priority right now.

Because of not being able measure the output I'm winging it which is not turning out as well as I had hoped.

The 1501Fe sounds pretty good in 3 cu ft tuned to 36 hz. If everything gets set right it will sound great. I can hear the promise of a great sounding system!

When funds become available I'll have cabs built for the 1501's in the future with proper size/tuning.

More updates when time becomes available and I can tweak further.

Ron sends...

[spkrman57]

x-over 800hz LF 12db/oct and HF 18db/oct and reset delay.

Need a few days to find out. Have to run out take care of tasks right now.

Ron

[macaroonie]

Hi Ron , a couple of things , I'd welcome your comments re the Driverack's sonic purity. Second , you have a decision to make with your measurements. Are you measuring the speaker or the room ?
I'll be interested to see how you approach this.


Regards Mac

[spkrman57]

Hi Ron , a couple of things , I'd welcome your comments re the Driverack's sonic purity. Second , you have a decision to make with your measurements. Are you measuring the speaker or the room ?
I'll be interested to see how you approach this.


Regards Mac

Mac,

I have not heard anything that is degrading the sound using the dbx, but slight hum in my horn(only when right in front of it).

But I must say it is difficult to fully analyze the sonic character until the sytem is set properly.

When I measure down the road with microphone I will be measuring the total system in room. My room is 12' x 16' x 8' ceiling and that makes a big difference than with a large room.

Regards, Ron

[macaroonie]

Re the first question , clearly there is a huge price difference between the low and high end end DSP, it begs the question other than greater PEQ , processors , facilities then what is one actually getting.
This plays directly into the M2 discussion
The second question brings in the debate about speaker measurement in general. Manufacturers in general use anechoic conditions to test their products and aim to achieve a flat response ( with other factors like dispersion / phase taken into consideration ) but from there you are at the mercy of your home environment response.
Aside from the hard core filter parameters , slopes frequency phase I am curious whether one forgets the anechoic part and aims directly for room response.
I'm leaning towards agreeing with you for the following reason. All this DSP technology M2 and all, filters down from the well established practices with Tour Sound where as you will no doubt be aware the system is tuned to the room / arena from setup.
Having said that I have found with my system 3 way analogue active ) that slight changes of crossover frequency have made significant improvements. Of course you can do this easily with DSP assuming you are hooked up to a PC or whatever.
I suspect it might be a long path for you Ron , hopefully with a happy ending.

Mac

[spkrman57]

Re the first question , clearly there is a huge price difference between the low and high end end DSP, it begs the question other than greater PEQ , processors , facilities then what is one actually getting.
This plays directly into the M2 discussion
The second question brings in the debate about speaker measurement in general. Manufacturers in general use anechoic conditions to test their products and aim to achieve a flat response ( with other factors like dispersion / phase taken into consideration ) but from there you are at the mercy of your home environment response.
Aside from the hard core filter parameters , slopes frequency phase I am curious whether one forgets the anechoic part and aims directly for room response.
I'm leaning towards agreeing with you for the following reason. All this DSP technology M2 and all, filters down from the well established practices with Tour Sound where as you will no doubt be aware the system is tuned to the room / arena from setup.
Having said that I have found with my system 3 way analogue active ) that slight changes of crossover frequency have made significant improvements. Of course you can do this easily with DSP assuming you are hooked up to a PC or whatever.
I suspect it might be a long path for you Ron , hopefully with a happy ending.

Mac

I truly miss passive crossovers as there is less to change. I understand digital is the way to go if set up properly. I don't have measuring equipment or the time during the holidays to play with the system. I do listen however briefly on occasion and play with the settings to see what happens. 2014 will bring more improvement to my system.

Ron

[macaroonie]

A smartphone with an SPL app will get you rolling. Bit crudimentary but hey

[spkrman57]

Biggest problem now is room is too cluttered.

I changed the x-over to 18 db/oct BW 375 hz and 1000 hz 12/db/oct and sounds better, but have not played enough different types of music to see if it is that good or not.

Ron

[macaroonie]

Are you adjusting on the fly with PC control of the DBX ? Note that the M2 uses very sharp cutoff's but that may be more to do with power handling.

M

[spkrman57]

Are you adjusting on the fly with PC control of the DBX ? Note that the M2 uses very sharp cutoff's but that may be more to do with power handling.

M

I'm not coming up with anything exciting enough to mention. I guess digital lets you play with different variables, but as the experts here have mentioned over and over again "you can't get it right without measuring". I'm hoping to just get close at this point.

I also don't have much time to play with the settings as I'm busy this time of year doing chores.

Ron

[doucanoe]

I dabbled in the world of active crossovers several years back now. The actives I was using were pretty bare bones DBX SS and Marchand tube compared to the unit your using so comparisons really can't be made. All I can say is that although there was a glimmer of better things to come, I quickly grew weary of the mass of cabling, hum and the multitude of amplifiers needed to 2 or 3-way up and running.

I really felt that I would revisit later on when funds allowed for a more serious active crossover. As time passed, my aversion to the mass of cabling and multitude of amplifiers grew at a more rapid rate than my curiosity in chasing the "better sound" said to be had by going active.

I'm now pretty comfortable in the notion that I more than likely will never know if there is any truth in that or not.

RC

[spkrman57]

After some time to listen to the system I have come to the conclusion that the 1501Fe will most definitely benefit from a larger box and lower tuning(when funds permit in 2014).

Even with experimenting with different frequencies I still returen back to 375hz 18db/oct and 1khz 12db/oct providing the clearest soundstage. I sit 6 ft away from my spkrs and therefore it's hard to hide any flaws in the system.

My horns need a new base/bracket to hold it up higher. I'm currently about 4 to 6 inches too low.

I finally found out how to work the graphic EQ and experimented with it a bit. I will do a passive HF EQ circuit as I don't like the dbx EQ which is limited to 16khz on the top. On the bottom end I decreases -3db @ 28 hz which really made up for the small box and higher tuning I'm using now. I found no reason for adding LF EQ as it is not needed for my listening. I tried gentle bump @ 40 hz but found it not pleasant to my ears. I'm really looking forward to when I can get a proper box/tuning for the 1501Fe.

Mosfet amps on the 1501Fe (Soundcraftsman PM-860 and Adcom 555 - II) sounded more realistic than like the JBL 6290 bipolar amp that sounded harsh in delivery. I like Mosfet amps as most sound more tubelike than bipolar transistor types.

I truly think that down the road I'll be using passive crossover rather than bi-amping. The dbx driverack Pa + is okay, not the high-end performance I'm used to.

More to follow after the holidays!

I really do love these 1501's, my previous favorite driver was the 2226. The 1501Fe is 4 db less efficient but gives a octave or more LF response.

Happy Holidays everyone!

Regards, Ron

[spkrman57]

Crossover Frequency:
750Hz 24 db/oct LR

EQ:
31.5Hz -3db/oct
40Hz +3db/oct
16Khz +3db

I'm listening to this and I may be closer to what I like. I just have not had a lot of time to play lately and hope to do more after the 1st of the year.

Regards, Ron

[danvprod]

Enjoyed reading you build here and also your tweaking as you develop crossover that meets your listening requirements. Interested to see that you went for the symmetrical 750 Hz 24 dB/octave vs. 350 @ 18dB and 1k @ 12 dB that you described before.

I've be playing with my crossover for a similar project (2226 in 4 cu ft @ 45 Hz, 2445J) and currently am using a 80 Hz 6 dB/octave and 1000 Hz 24 dB/octave to deal with the rising midrange response of the 2226 in the small enclosure. I was going to try you 350/1k and see how that sounds as well.

[macaroonie]

Hey Ron I tried to snag the DBX software without success , can you point me in the right direction online if its there.
I was wanting to have a look at how the EQ is implemented. Are the center frequencies fixed ? Is Q variable at all ? or is it a straight Graphic ?

Cheers Mac

[spkrman57]

Hey Ron I tried to snag the DBX software without success , can you point me in the right direction online if its there.
I was wanting to have a look at how the EQ is implemented. Are the center frequencies fixed ? Is Q variable at all ? or is it a straight Graphic ?

Cheers Mac

Mac,

Parts Express has them and can be ordered online. They cost $100 less than what I paid last year for mine.

There is both a graphic EQ and a separate parametric EQ onboard. So the parametric has the adjustable "Q".

I have had some success with the 750hz LR 24db/oct crossover setting and I'm considering using a Marchand X-over I bought last year. I have 2 x-over modules 24db/oct w/freq setting resistor chip for 750hz LR and I don't really use all the features the dbx has. So I will probably put the Marchand xm-9 modules and power supply in a chassis and run that. EQ and delay I can work without needing and that will simplify things.

Ron

[spkrman57]

Enjoyed reading you build here and also your tweaking as you develop crossover that meets your listening requirements. Interested to see that you went for the symmetrical 750 Hz 24 dB/octave vs. 350 @ 18dB and 1k @ 12 dB that you described before.

I've be playing with my crossover for a similar project (2226 in 4 cu ft @ 45 Hz, 2445J) and currently am using a 80 Hz 6 dB/octave and 1000 Hz 24 dB/octave to deal with the rising midrange response of the 2226 in the small enclosure. I was going to try you 350/1k and see how that sounds as well.

But I missed too much midrange with the 375hz. I had to go to 24db/oct LR to keep the 1501Fe from sounding slightly muffled.

750Hz 24db/oct LR is sounding pretty good so far, but my biggest problem is I have not had much time to play with it lately. When everything gets slower soon I can get more serious time to play the system.

Regards, Ron

[Mostlydiy]

I'm getting my dbx driverack pa + back Monday morning.

I'm thinking 1501 up to where midbass/midrange driver takes over.

Options for mid: E-145/2206/2226/Ev Sp-12 (I'm thinking 2206 best here) powered by single ended tube amp. either KT-88 or EL34.

HF is already good: JBL 2445/Be/350Hz Edgarhorn powered by 300B SET amp (my favorite amp!)

With either the JBL 2206 or EV SP-12 1Khz on the HF is no prob, in fact I would be comfortable @ 1200 Hz with those drivers.

I welcome comments here on this.

This will be a work in progress and I don't mind trying different drivers for the mid until I get the sound stage I'm looking for.

Regards, Ron

If you are to use the 1501Fe for sub duty only, have you decided on the mid already?

/Mostly

[spkrman57]

If you are to use the 1501Fe for sub duty only, have you decided on the mid already?

/Mostly

I'm leaning towards the E145 in 2.5 cubic ft box tuned to 50Hz resulting approx -3db down @ 80Hz.

My other option was 2206, but I don't have decent cabs in house for using them.

Ron

PS: everything is sitting idle until winter decides to leave Ohio!

[spkrman57]

I'm leaning towards that when I find some old Marantz cabs I used before.

Winter wx still keeping me busy chpping snow and ice off the gutters.

Ron