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View Full Version : Questions about JBL 044Ti wire mesh grill



Kreshna
11-01-2013, 11:54 AM
Well the right channel of my amp produced loud static (popping and cracking) this morning (long story), to the point that the amp went to protection mode. I worried such thing would destroy the tweeter, so I pulled it out to test it with AA battery; that is, by tapping and end of the wire to an end of a battery. The tapping resulted in scratching and popping noises whenever I tap, so I guess the tweeter still works (http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2046977), don't they?

Alas, while I removed the tweeter from the speaker enclosure, I accidentally pushed the 044Ti wire mesh grill harder than it should, so it is now a little bit deformed (pushed in). In order to repair the deformation, I would need to push it back from the other side. But in order to do so, first I have to remove the wire mesh grill from the tweeter.

Question is: how should I do that? Should I just forcibly pull it away? And after I repair the dent, how should I put the wire mesh grill back?

Also, I spotted a pair of spare 044Tis for sale. It look exactly like my 044Ti, with white-colored tweeter's base. The difference is that it doesn't have the wire mesh grill. Is that different sub-model of 044Ti, or is it the same with the 044Ti of my speakers? From what I read here (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-34093.html), it seems 044Ti has threaded model and non-threaded model. What does it mean? Is it just the screw hole issue?

Thanks.

(BTW my speakers is 120Ti)

John W
11-01-2013, 01:55 PM
There should be a rubber "O" ring around the outside of the wire mesh, in a groove, on the top side of the tweeter.
Carefully remove the rubber ring with something sharp and pointed. It may be oxidized and broken in a few places, so be careful.
This should allow you to get the screen out with just a little effort, though it will still be held in place by the pull of the magnet.

grumpy
11-01-2013, 02:27 PM
Threaded or not is indeed regarding the mounting holes.

rdgrimes
11-01-2013, 02:54 PM
I've used a small piece of wire, bent into a "hook" to pull those screens dents out. However it often results in the whole screen coming out, so use one hand to hold the screen in place.
Removing the screen frequently results in the old o-ring coming out in little chunks, making it useless. However its a standard size o-ring that can be bought easily.


From what I read here (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-34093.html), it seems 044Ti has threaded model and non-threaded model. What does it mean? Is it just the screw hole issue?
(BTW my speakers is 120Ti)

"Threaded" refers to the mounting flanges. You have 3 screws that thread through the speaker baffle to hold the 044ti in place, so yours is threaded. A non-threaded version would be difficult to mount for you. You'd have to use bolts and nuts to hold it in place.

Kreshna
11-01-2013, 03:25 PM
"Threaded" refers to the mounting flanges. You have 3 screws that thread through the speaker baffle to hold the 044ti in place, so yours is threaded. A non-threaded version would be difficult to mount for you. You'd have to use bolts and nuts to hold it in place.
I see. Thanks. Anyway, if I found a spare 044Ti, how do I know if it's threaded or not? Mine have white base. The spare pair I spot also have white based. So does it mean that the spares are also threaded?




I've used a small piece of wire, bent into a "hook" to pull those screens dents out. However it often results in the whole screen coming out, so use one hand to hold the screen in place.
Removing the screen frequently results in the old o-ring coming out in little chunks, making it useless. However its a standard size o-ring that can be bought easily.
I see, thanks again for the tip.



There should be a rubber "O" ring around the outside of the wire mesh, in a groove, on the top side of the tweeter.
Carefully remove the rubber ring with something sharp and pointed. It may be oxidized and broken in a few places, so be careful.
This should allow you to get the screen out with just a little effort, though it will still be held in place by the pull of the magnet.
I see, thanks. What tool are you usually using to remove the rubber ring?