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KTG
10-27-2013, 07:56 AM
working on a 4350 project, past owners modified most of the wiring with xlr connectors. I have 4 wires left to hook up, they are orange/ orange/black and yellow/ yellow black. a little confused which might go to the 2405 and 2440 and polarity. I have the 2202 and 2231;s figured out. any past threads or help would be greatly appreciated. also any source for yellow insulation similar to the orginal. i could also use the lower clamp that bolts to the bracket for the 2440. thanks ktg

Odd
10-27-2013, 09:36 AM
Here is the 4355 crossover. Can not find 4350.
I think it is the same color codes.

KTG
10-27-2013, 01:20 PM
thanks Odd, appears this will work just fine., thank you very much, ktg:bouncy:

57BELAIRE
10-30-2013, 12:02 PM
working on a 4350 project, past owners modified most of the wiring with xlr connectors. I have 4 wires left to hook up, they are orange/ orange/black and yellow/ yellow black. a little confused which might go to the 2405 and 2440 and polarity. I have the 2202 and 2231;s figured out. any past threads or help would be greatly appreciated. also any source for yellow insulation similar to the orginal. i could also use the lower clamp that bolts to the bracket for the 2440. thanks ktg
if this is the clamp your referring to you can simply make one or have a machine shop do it...bolting that beast (2440) in is definitely a two man job. :banghead: good luck!

DogBox
11-06-2013, 01:32 AM
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Network%20Schematics/3107%20Network.pdf


Regards,
DogBox

KTG
11-06-2013, 03:34 PM
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/network schematics/3107 network.pdf


regards,
dogbox
thanks very much, this helps, i will keep in the files

KTG
11-06-2013, 03:46 PM
if this is the clamp your referring to you can simply make one or have a machine shop do it...bolting that beast (2440) in is definitely a two man job. :banghead: good luck!


thanks very much, great photo, this will help immensely. do you think your clamp is orginal jbl because it looks really heavy? my only problem is the driver is not exactly centered of the wooden crossmember, but i will figure it out. also do you have a interior picture of the angle support brackets that bolt to the bottom and baffle, thanks again ktg

1audiohack
11-06-2013, 05:08 PM
The driver is not centered over the support in mine as well. I have no support brackets for mine either. Also my 2311/2440 will not go in between the port tube and brace as an assembly. Will yours?

I figure I'm going to have to make the brackets as well and that picture is a big help.

Thank you,
Barry.

KTG
11-07-2013, 05:18 AM
The driver is not centered over the support in mine as well. I have no support brackets for mine either. Also my 2311/2440 will not go in between the port tube and brace as an assembly. Will yours?

I figure I'm going to have to make the brackets as well and that picture is a big help.

Thank you,
Barry.

hi Barry. the top port at least has to be removed to remove the driver. its easier if none are in. all the ports were damaged in mine and had to be replaced. i left the 2 top ones in each cabinet not glued in so as to be removed if necessary. i cut extra ports for this reason. it looks as if the lower u shaped clamp has to have unequal ears so the holes line up with the upper bracket that is bolted to the driver and horn. also i am not sure which way the upper bracket faces, leg toward the rear or leg towards the front of the cabinet. i think this lower clamp is not too important if the cabinets are horizontal but if they were stood on end or hung upside down it would be very necessary to support the driver and relieve the stress on the baffel. also i got a feeling my cabinet never came with brackets. no marks anywhere on the support members. this is a real pain but i want it done correctly. thank you.

1audiohack
11-07-2013, 06:48 AM
I get the driver in first by orienting it so the throat faces the port or dogbox and it slips through like that and then assemble the throat on the driver and then mount the assembly to the baffle. PITA! One of mine had the top port tube detached from the baffle and the rear support rail screw head stripped out trying to remove it before they figured out how they come apart without destruction.

The rails in mine show no evidence of anything being tightly clamped to them, maybe it is just a displacement limiter and it floats or possibly had a wrap of felt inside?

KTG
11-07-2013, 10:57 AM
i removed the small screw on the baffel that holds the support member and recentered it under the bracket. it moved just enough to be centered for the clamp.

DogBox
11-07-2013, 01:31 PM
file:///C:/Users/Steve/Pictures/Page 3-1.jpg

Hi Barry, this help?

DogBox

1audiohack
11-07-2013, 09:22 PM
Cool!

Thank you.

57BELAIRE
11-09-2013, 05:52 AM
thanks very much, great photo, this will help immensely. do you think your clamp is orginal jbl because it looks really heavy? my only problem is the driver is not exactly centered of the wooden crossmember, but i will figure it out. also do you have a interior picture of the angle support brackets that bolt to the bottom and baffle, thanks again ktg

I'm guessing the clamps are original and yes, they are sturdy....they'd need to be to support the weight of the 2440 if the unit was suspended upside down. I did have to remove each top port to get the drivers out and the slip right back into place. Sorry, no pics of the support brackets.