Did anyone ever tried to combine Tannoy and JBL drivers in one cabinet?

[Cornholio]

Now don't get me wrong, folks, I love JBL. Especially the bass and the dynamics! But every time I hear vintage Tannoys I'm awed at their open and smooth midrange and highs. Unfortunately the bass is far inferior to the JBL bass. Even the driver seems to be positioned a bit too high to produce natural bass for me. So for me the perfect speaker is likely to be a combination of the two - the dual concentric Tannoy driver at the top with a big JBL woofer at the bottom. How come nobody ever tried to combine them?

[Maron Horonzakz]

Try the new Tannoy Kingdom Royal Gold..

[Cornholio]

Try the new Tannoy Kingdom Royal Gold..


Well, it's a bit pricey, isn't it?:D

[hjames]

Well, it's a bit pricey, isn't it?:D

Isn't that true of all Tannoys?

[4313B]

Unfortunately the higher end Tannoys are still made in a part of the world that has a reasonable standard of living so they are a bit costly.


Now don't get me wrong, folks, I love JBL. Especially the bass and the dynamics! But every time I hear vintage Tannoys I'm awed at their open and smooth midrange and highs. Unfortunately the bass is far inferior to the JBL bass.There was a time when the statement "JBL always had the bass, it was everything else that they could never manage to get right." was arguably true. I personally think that those days are long gone but alot of people still don't.



In any case, I'd love to put a pair of those new Tannoy DC10A transducers over a pair of new JBL 1501AL-2's. :yes:
I think Tannoy is pretty bold stacking up that little ten-inch transducer against the JBL fifteen-inch based systems such as the S4700 or 4365. I guess we'll see what the sales end up like.

[Maron Horonzakz]

As my dear ol mama used to say,,,"You want to play with the big boys,,You gotta pay the price"

[MikeBrewster77]

There was a time when the statement "JBL always had the bass, it was everything else that they could never manage to get right." was arguably true. I personally think that those days are long gone...

+1 :yes:

[Cornholio]

Isn't that true of all Tannoys?


Well, Tannoy Kingdom Royal is $75 000 in Moscow. That's WAY too pricey IMHO... Even the Westminster seems reasonable compared to that. The old Kingdom line was also priced within reach of the human being. And of course you can get a lot of vintage/DIY Tannoys for $3000-15 000.

[richluvsound]

I have 2 tannoy CDs ,been thinking about starting a project with them , but I have no tech sheets for them.... where do I start ?

Rich

[Earl K]

I have 2 tannoy CDs ,been thinking about starting a project with them , but I have no tech sheets for them.... where do I start ?

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=18362&stc=1&d=1157811855

Are yours from Mac originally ? If so, I think they're the same vintage as the following .

Here's a critical shot of my cousins HPD315(s) which are the same vintage as Macs . Ignore the suggested levels ( the software wasn't calibrated ) .
- One can see the driver is a good performer out to past 16K .

http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/Tannoy_HPD-315.PNG

I'd start by making/turning a 10-12" round horn for them to play into ( while you decide your next move ) . That way, you can use part of Tannoys crossover ( & HF compensation circuit ) as a guideline .

Considering your talent with wood, you might want to make your own Array1000 ( by using a pair of Le10(s) ) under something like this ( driven by those Tannoy drivers ) ;

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=23244&stc=1&d=1172597267

:)

[richluvsound]

Thanks Earl ,

yep.... there from Mac . I do like the idea of using a round horn . Where would one find the correct profile ?

Rich

[Earl K]

Thanks Earl ,

yep.... there from Mac . I do like the idea of using a round horn . Where would one find the correct profile ?

Rich

I know that John W made a beautiful round walnut horn ( some years back ) based on some info gleaned from Jack Bouska . Click the pic ( for his thread ) !

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=19638&stc=1&d=1161131852 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?12671-Big-Blue&highlight=)

Jack's ( design ) details are here ;

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=18192&stc=1&d=1157439402 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?12126-DIY-Axially-symmetric-oblate-spheroid-CD-waveguides-in-solid-Oak)



:)

[4313B]

I do like the idea of using a round horn . Where would one find the correct profile ?I'm looking for a round WG that I can bolt a 435Be or 476Be to without modifying anything. Something about twelve inches in diameter and something around fifteen inches in diameter.

If I can't find something I like that I can run over some 2206H's and some 1500AL's then I might just bag it all, buy more Tannoy DC12i's and put them over some 1500AL's. :p The DC10A transducers are unobtainable.

[Earl K]

I'm looking for a round WG that I can bolt a 435Be or 476Be to without modifying anything. Something about twelve inches in diameter and something around fifteen inches in diameter.

Perhaps someone here at LHF ( talented in woodworking ) will consent to a contract for a custom build of "Salad Bowls" .

- Almost a decade ago, I got by using these ( with my first generation MTMs ) ; http://d2oiekhouywd6z.cloudfront.net/images/products/anchor/264-316_a.jpg (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-316) I crossed them over at @ 1000hz .
- At $25.00 a piece, they are a true steal for a nice bit of metal casting .
- " I got by" , means I was able to enjoy the "Pin-Point" imaging obtainable from an axis-symmetrical horn ( without much financial investment coloring my assessment of their capabilties ).
- The low buy-in allowed me to ( guilt free ) retire these horns when I finally decided I was ready for a larger sweet-spot .

- Some will need to add this adapter ( into the cost equation ) when using a 1.5" exit driver ;http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/PDGImages/PC-5038-thumb.jpg (http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/PC5038/P-AUDIOPC5038/) ( since the Selenium HL14-50 has a 2" entry ) .




- I then went to 60x30 ellipticals ( JBL H5038s to be precise ) .
- Since those Paragon Horns are virtually unobtainable, the next best standin will be something like this ( though with a 1.4" entrance ).
- One advantage to these horns ( from Faital Pro ) is that the bell is fully terminated ( unlike the JBLs which are truncated ) .


http://www.usspeaker.com/images/faitalpro-LTH142-size175.gifhttp://www.critesspeakers.com/_Media/lth142horn3_med.jpeg (http://www.critesspeakers.com/cornscala-style-d.html)

- I found that the ellipticals were almost as "pure" as the rounds ( for imaging ) but over-all had a "wider & deeper" sound-stage .

- All-in-all , everything mentioned above, I view as necessary "kit" for those who want to explore the fascinating world of DIY imaging ( in a step by step manner ) .

- Currently I enjoy using some Emilar EH500 ( 90x40 ) radials . They're imaging is noticeably shallower and wider , when compared to the ellipticals .



:)

[ivica]

Perhaps someone here at LHF ( talented in woodworking ) will consent to a contract for a custom build of "Salad Bowls" .

- Almost a decade ago, I got by using these ( with my first generation MTMs ) ; http://d2oiekhouywd6z.cloudfront.net/images/products/anchor/264-316_a.jpg (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-316) I crossed them over at @ 1000hz .
- At $25.00 a piece, they are a true steal for a nice bit of metal casting .
- " I got by" , means I was able to enjoy the "Pin-Point" imaging obtainable from an axis-symmetrical horn ( without much financial investment coloring my assessment of their capabilties ).
- The low buy-in allowed me to ( guilt free ) retire these horns when I finally decided I was ready for a larger sweet-spot .

- Some will need to add this adapter ( into the cost equation ) when using a 1.5" exit driver ;http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/PDGImages/PC-5038-thumb.jpg (http://www.loudspeakersplus.com/product/PC5038/P-AUDIOPC5038/) ( since the Selenium HL14-50 has a 2" entry ) .




- I then went to 60x30 ellipticals ( JBL H5038s to be precise ) .
- Since those Paragon Horns are virtually unobtainable, the next best standin will be something like this ( though with a 1.4" entrance ).
- One advantage to these horns ( from Faital Pro ) is that the bell is fully terminated ( unlike the JBLs which are truncated ) .




- I found that the ellipticals were almost as "pure" as the rounds ( for imaging ) but over-all had a "wider & deeper" sound-stage .

- All-in-all , everything mentioned above, I view as necessary "kit" for those who want to explore the fascinating world of DIY imaging ( in a step by step manner ) .

- Currently I enjoy using some Emilar EH500 ( 90x40 ) radials . They're imaging is noticeably shallower and wider , when compared to the ellipticals .



:)

Why not had tried HL14-50 with JBL 2308 to 'widen' the sound stage?

Regards
Ivica

[richluvsound]

I like the idea of a 12" over and 2206 - relatively inexpensive project . Need to book some time on the lathe , but first I have a shifted pole piece to sort out on a 2435 .

I would feel more confident with a profile to work to - anyone have a drawing they're will to share ?

Rich

[macaroonie]

Glad to see you are getting revved up with these Rich. Suggestion , measure the internal diameter of the throat where it is flush with the top plate surface. I think you will be in the 1.5" region. I think you can figure out where I am going with this. Another thing to be aware of is the snout is just a baw hair too big to fit inside any 2" throats , just in case you thought of trying anything along those lines. Personally I would saw off those snouts if the 1.5" figure is good. That leaves you much more control over flare rates etc. Also I would be cautious of putting these in a lathe unless you have non mag chuck jaws. Same applies to the tool holder etc. I'm sure you know all this stuff.

Make sure when you run them up that you do an alignment check and also that you have the correct amount of shims in place. 500-1K tone straight on to the dia at low volume. Adjust position / screw tightness for rubbing if there is any and use the least number of shims that you can without the dia crashing into anything. Its normally just 1 but sometimes 2

M

Here is the standard X/O Somewhere I have a resolved verion of this so you don't need to get an auto transformer from big ears. I'll see if I can find it.

[spkrman57]

I'm looking for a round WG that I can bolt a 435Be or 476Be to without modifying anything. Something about twelve inches in diameter and something around fifteen inches in diameter.

I have a pair of 500Hz Edgarhorns that you could borrow if they would work for you. They are 2" and I have adaptors for 1.5" 3 bolt that could be drilled out for 4 bolt use. The front diameter is 10".

Send me a PM or e-mail if you would like to borrow them.

Regards, Ron

[Earl K]

I would feel more confident with a profile to work to - anyone have a drawing they're will to share ?

These pics are from JackB's thread ( link previously provided ) .

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=18196&stc=1&d=1157439654

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=18197&stc=1&d=1157439665

- I would not over-think this exercise ( don't think of this as your first & last custom horn build ) .
- No matter what you might do ( & you may think a change is some form of screw-up ) the net result ( in audio terms ) can be described & defined ( even in the extreme circumstance of you drilling holes through the bell // those simply become "notch-filters" ) .

- Hornresp Software (http://www.hornresp.net.ms/) can help you predict the net results of "lengthening" the horn bell sides ( say to to get a desired diameter ) but frankly, I'd just do it , then measure the acoustic results and then deal with the consequences using custom filters .

:)

[macaroonie]

Here you go. Credit to the original author. I believe the standard frequency is 1200 , you may want to sneak it a bit lower with a JBL driver or it might get a little murky in the x/o region. YMMV

57842

As you can see it has been simplified and the trans has been removed and replaced with a fixed value inductor. I notice the author does not mention a wire guage , you may need to take advice oon this.

[Earl K]

Why not had tried HL14-50 with JBL 2308 to 'widen' the sound stage?

Regards
Ivica



One needs (2) 2308 per side to fully cover the mouth of (1) HL14-50 . While I do have enough of 2308(s) I don't believe I went through the process ( of exploring all the trade-offs ) .

Mea Culpa ; I have a deep-rooted prejudice against these types of lenses ( maybe unfounded, maybe not ). I've always blamed them for JBL monitors tragically-poor imaging capabilities ( I guess I should revisit that bias someday ) .

:)

[Earl K]

Rich

The profile of Tannoy's own horn ( seen below ) can be used to approximate a flare rate ( & type ) for a custom round horn ;


http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Tannoy/1512horn.jpg

One can see that they apparently chose to copy the profile of the LF cone used in their coaxes .

http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Tannoy/1b.jpg

The Tannoy horn profile will offer pretty good LF loading for a 10" diameter horn ( at the expense of some increased HF beaming ) .

:)

[panos29]

Since I have a pair of original Tannoy HPD385 crossovers at hand I can measure the inductance of the autotransformer as well as the RDC if anybody is interested on this. I would love also to see those Tannoy CDs photographed from the other side as these seem unique enough and look more like the magnetic system of HPDs taken off their basket - chassis.

Thank you!

[macaroonie]

[QUOTE=panos29;343918]Since I have a pair of original Tannoy HPD385 crossovers at hand I can measure the inductance of the autotransformer as well as the RDC if anybody is interested on this. I would love also to see those Tannoy CDs photographed from the other side as these seem unique enough and look more like the magnetic system of HPDs taken off their basket - chassis.

Thats exactly what they are. :eek:

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