4312b

[PeterJ59]

Hi everyone, I'm trying to replace the standard caps in my 4312B's with some ClarityCap ESA's and was wondering if anyone knows how to get to the xover network .... thanks in advance... Peter

[PeterJ59]

Any ideas .... anyone :dont-know:

[hjames]

Hi everyone, I'm trying to replace the standard caps in my 4312B's with some ClarityCap ESA's and was wondering if anyone knows how to get to the xover network .... thanks in advance... Peter

Don't know that one specifically - do you remove the woofer to find the network inside the cabinet,
or is it one of the units where the crossover is waxy potted in a metal can?

[PeterJ59]

Don't know that one specifically - do you remove the woofer to find the network inside the cabinet,
or is it one of the units where the crossover is waxy potted in a metal can?

Thanks Heather I was starting to wonder if anyone reads these threads .... no I don't believe the network is in a metal can I think it is behind the level controls, possibly same as 4311 etc., can't access via the LF driver hole ..... I thought I might be able to remove the level knobs and get to the pot nuts behind but can't seem to be able to even remove the knobs ... so I was wondering if I have to remove the escutcheon to get to screws behind :dont-know: ... just trying to find out the proper way so I don't end up destroying things.

[Don C]

It looks like the crossover mounting screws are hidden behind the foilcal. So you would have to remove the woofer, peel the foilcal, remove the screws, then pull the crossover out the woofer hole.
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Studio%20Monitor%20Series/4312LR.pdf

[mech986]

It looks like the crossover mounting screws are hidden behind the foilcal. So you would have to remove the woofer, peel the foilcal, remove the screws, then pull the crossover out the woofer hole.
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Studio Monitor Series/4312LR.pdf

Yup, heat gun to soften the glue on the foilcal, carefully remove without creasing or bending it, then you can get at the screws holding the crossover board which also mounts the L-pads and crossover components (all 4 of them).

[Mr. Widget]

Yup, heat gun to soften the glue on the foilcal, carefully remove...(all 4 of them).Yeah, two caps plus two bypass caps and the two L-pads.

I wouldn't do it. I think the likelihood of damaging the foilcal is very high. I would bypass the whole network and make a new one. I'd use a high quality 8uF cap on the mid, a new l-pad, and a high quality 3uF cap on the tweeter with a new L-pad and be done with it. To me, having a wrinkly foilcal is much worse than having a few extra parts floating around inside the box.


Widget

[PeterJ59]

Yeah, two caps plus two bypass caps and the two L-pads.

I wouldn't do it. I think the likelihood of damaging the foilcal is very high. I would bypass the whole network and make a new one. I'd use a high quality 8uF cap on the mid, a new l-pad, and a high quality 3uF cap on the tweeter with a new L-pad and be done with it. To me, having a wrinkly foilcal is much worse than having a few extra parts floating around inside the box.


Widget

Thanks everyone for your comments, I'm tending to agree with Widget with the likelihood of destroying the foilcal ... I seem to have 2 choices, get to the original network and probably destroying the foilcal in the process (although I see some available on ebay for replacements) or since I am running the L Pads at max just make up a separate network and wire directly to the drivers and everything will look just the same :applaud: very good !! thank you all for your advice.