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rpatt
05-23-2013, 09:04 PM
Usually if you have one shorted transistor and fuses are still blowing one of the other ones is shorted. Do you have schematics? See link in post #1996.

JBLAddict
05-24-2013, 10:29 PM
Hi All,

just added an HTPS400 to my PS series HT, to complete the set.

I'm going from an L8400 with the Normal/LFE setting, where I used LFE for DD, DTS, SACD, DVDA

The HTPS has the Normal/THX setting and recommends for DTS and DD to use the Normal setting, using the xover and gain controls on the unit? However the THX setting which bypasses the xover and uses the preamp xover/gain seems a better match to my former LFE setting (except the gain which is still controlled in part on the L8400)

I don't have a THX pre-amp, can someone tell me what settings to use for my range of DD, DTS, SACD, DVDA material?

Thanks much

rpatt
05-24-2013, 11:36 PM
Hi All,

just added an HTPS400 to my PS series HT, to complete the set.

I'm going from an L8400 with the Normal/LFE setting, where I used LFE for DD, DTS, SACD, DVDA

The HTPS has the Normal/THX setting and recommends for DTS and DD to use the Normal setting, using the xover and gain controls on the unit? However the THX setting which bypasses the xover and uses the preamp xover/gain seems a better match to my former LFE setting (except the gain which is still controlled in part on the L8400)

I don't have a THX pre-amp, can someone tell me what settings to use for my range of DD, DTS, SACD, DVDA material?

Thanks much

Congratulations. I have my EQ set on "Normal", Gain at "1-O'clock" & crossover on maximum "150-Hz". I have my Marantz AV-7005 Crossovers set as follows:
FL & FR at 40-Hz, Center, SL & SR at 80-Hz.

JBLAddict
05-25-2013, 08:36 AM
Congratulations. I have my EQ set on "Normal", Gain at "1-O'clock" & crossover on maximum "150-Hz". I have my Marantz AV-7005 Crossovers set as follows:
FL & FR at 40-Hz, Center, SL & SR at 80-Hz.

thanks, I did an "AIX records cal disc" run using DD-TruHD 5.1 and LCPM 5.1 outputs:

got level matched 70dB w/ THX setting (disables sub xover/gain) drop my preamp (sub-LFE, FL/FR-full) gain down to -4 (of 10)
got level matched 70dB w/ Normal setting (enables sub xover-150Hz/gain-2'oclock) and raise preamp (sub-LFE, FL/FR-full) gain up to +6 (of 10)

I'm assuming ?? these are equal options except the Normal setting is capping the LFE pre-out to the sub at 150Hz?? OR should I run the THX setting, assuming the LFE output in the various formats may output >150Hz?

jener8tionx
06-20-2013, 06:41 PM
Well, I've had no luck fixing my PS1400. I think I might sell that one for parts. Also, I can't afford to replace it, so I might just have to sell my working PS1400 book shelves and center chanel. Oh well.

rpatt
06-21-2013, 12:40 AM
Well, I've had no luck fixing my PS1400. I think I might sell that one for parts. Also, I can't afford to replace it, so I might just have to sell my working PS1400 book shelves and center chanel. Oh well.

Sorry to hear that. I was pulling for you.

JBLAddict
06-24-2013, 11:02 PM
I'm thinking of adding a second HTPS-400 to my Performance Series 5.1 to feed my addiction. Question: How does one go about calibrating the system with multiple subs? guessing this may be a rabbit hole type question, but appreciate some initial feedback.

Thanks

rpatt
06-25-2013, 12:14 AM
I'm thinking of adding a second HTPS-400 to my Performance Series 5.1 to feed my addiction. Question: How does one go about calibrating the system with multiple subs? guessing this may be a rabbit hole type question, but appreciate some initial feedback.

Thanks

I'm planning on upgrading my Pre-Pro from the Marantz AV-7005 to the AV-8801. This will be an upgrade from Audyssey MultEQ XT to Audyssey MultEQ XT32 which handles two subs individually. Audyssey MultEQ XT and my Velodyne SMS-1 only have one channel for the sub and calibrate multiple subs as a whole.

rdgrimes
06-25-2013, 05:24 AM
I'm thinking of adding a second HTPS-400 to my Performance Series 5.1 to feed my addiction. Question: How does one go about calibrating the system with multiple subs? guessing this may be a rabbit hole type question, but appreciate some initial feedback.

Thanks

It's entirely dependent on your setup hardware and software. Fortunately, subs aren't much affected by distances, as long as you don't create a big null in your listening position, its all good. Some folks have stacked the HTPS400 with good results too, but I prefer having subs spaced around the room.

Basically you're just creating more choices without much in the way of a downside, have fun.

Mr. Widget
06-25-2013, 08:28 AM
I'm planning on upgrading my Pre-Pro from the Marantz AV-7005 to the AV-8801. This will be an upgrade from Audyssey MultEQ XT to Audyssey MultEQ XT32 which handles two subs individually.While I could write a convincing "white paper" on the benefits of discrete subwoofer channels, I'm not sure that it will be that significant of an upgrade in terms of actual in room acoustic performance. I would tread very cautiously on this upgrade path. I doubt the audio circuits are significantly improved if at all, and personally I would go with a $1000 Anthem MRX-300 and it's ARC calibration over Audyssey. I would use the Anthem's line outs and a proper multi-channel amp. You do lose balance outputs, but I think the overall sonic benefits would outweigh this step backwards.

Now, if you love bells and whistles... that's another story. I am advocating a sonic performance based direction.

Back to the Off Topic at hand however, yes, I think going with multiple subs is always a good idea. They can all be paralleled and you will get most of the benefits... if the subs are dissimilar or the room quite peculiar separate control/processing of each may be important, but typically it is not that necessary.


Widget

4313B
06-25-2013, 08:44 AM
Well, I've had no luck fixing my PS1400. I think I might sell that one for parts. Also, I can't afford to replace it, so I might just have to sell my working PS1400 book shelves and center chanel. Oh well.I'm completely baffled as to why anyone allows those built-in amps to dictate how they live their lives. Dump the effing things in the trash and move on. Seriously.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-500

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-502

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-504

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-405

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-506

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-407

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-409

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-411

SileasResearch
09-01-2013, 02:08 AM
Glad to see this thread here about the Performance Series. I used to work at Harman (Balboa in Northridge) and have a bunch of the Performance Series speakers.

Specifically:
•PT800 - Total of 9
•PS1400 - Total of 2 (and yeah, the amps are pulled out - smoked, and using QSC MX1500A to drive the subs now)
•PC600 (unused, see comment below)

I used to use the PC600, but discussions with the designer (Greg Timbers) changed that. His preference was either PT800s all the way around or PC600s all the way around, but not mixed.
Another note, the auto-power off feature in the PS1400 amps was something he didn't like, but was marketing driven for reduced standby power consumption.

All of this is off my main topic, however. I am in a new house with a dedicated theater room which I am just starting to work on. It's not a big room (13' x 17') and doesn't have enough wall height for me to have my 133'" screen with the PT800s as Left, Center, and Right at the same height (stacked on PS1400s, C on custom stand). So, I am going to take the plunge into an acoustically transparent screen (microperf, probably, same size 133") and will put the three PT800s behind the screen.

Having spent a fair amount of time installing professional theaters and small screening rooms, the behind screen baffle is a very standard construction. Given that, I assumed that this was pretty normal for home theater as well. Nevertheless, some digging at AVSForum left me wondering a bit about all this. It seems like a fair amount of FUD, but I figured I'd check over here to see if anyone had experience with screen baffles and the PT800s.

Punchline, has anyone tried this with their PT800s, and did you baffle to the edge of the face (narrower part) or to the sides (widest part)? How far from the back of the screen did you the hard face of the PT800s? Did you leave the grills on or off?

I'd be happy to share what I can about Harman, but I left 5 years ago, and was only there a few years (my startup was Harman acquired), so my info will be pretty stale. Plus, I was focused on consumer automotive. If you have a Drive & Play 2, I can tell you every detail.

Thanks!

jblsound
09-01-2013, 05:19 AM
Glad to see this thread here about the Performance Series. I used to work at Harman (Balboa in Northridge) and have a bunch of the Performance Series speakers.

Specifically:
•PT800 - Total of 9
•PS1400 - Total of 2 (and yeah, the amps are pulled out - smoked, and using QSC MX1500A to drive the subs now)
•PC600 (unused, see comment below)

I used to use the PC600, but discussions with the designer (Greg Timbers) changed that. His preference was either PT800s all the way around or PC600s all the way around, but not mixed.
Another note, the auto-power off feature in the PS1400 amps was something he didn't like, but was marketing driven for reduced standby power consumption.

All of this is off my main topic, however. I am in a new house with a dedicated theater room which I am just starting to work on. It's not a big room (13' x 17') and doesn't have enough wall height for me to have my 133'" screen with the PT800s as Left, Center, and Right at the same height (stacked on PS1400s, C on custom stand). So, I am going to take the plunge into an acoustically transparent screen (microperf, probably, same size 133") and will put the three PT800s behind the screen.

Having spent a fair amount of time installing professional theaters and small screening rooms, the behind screen baffle is a very standard construction. Given that, I assumed that this was pretty normal for home theater as well. Nevertheless, some digging at AVSForum left me wondering a bit about all this. It seems like a fair amount of FUD, but I figured I'd check over here to see if anyone had experience with screen baffles and the PT800s.

Punchline, has anyone tried this with their PT800s, and did you baffle to the edge of the face (narrower part) or to the sides (widest part)? How far from the back of the screen did you the hard face of the PT800s? Did you leave the grills on or off?

I'd be happy to share what I can about Harman, but I left 5 years ago, and was only there a few years (my startup was Harman acquired), so my info will be pretty stale. Plus, I was focused on consumer automotive. If you have a Drive & Play 2, I can tell you every detail.

Thanks!


Yeah, Greg has been known to prefer identical speakers all around, especially for music. I was using 5 PT800s (never had a PC600).
But in my current setup I am only using 3 PT800s for center/surrounds and using my custom212s for the mains.
So I still have 5 vertical 3-ways, which are close to identical. I prefer the soundstage of the 212s in stereo playback to the PT800s.

As for having the PT800s behind the screen, as long as the speaker grilles are removed, so there is only the screen, should get close to the same results. The S4VC are flush mounted and 14" wide, with the baffle squared off. So I would think if you plan setting the PT800s into the wall, then place them flush to the 10" wide baffle. But you could just wall mount the PT800s and add foam around them and then the screen in front.

hydroscott
09-10-2013, 06:13 PM
I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

Thanks, Scott

rdgrimes
09-10-2013, 08:00 PM
I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

Thanks, Scott

If the board itself is bad, you're out of luck.
There's no way to duplicate the native function of the PS1400, which is separate control of LF and LFE inputs and levels. Best option seems to me to treat the 1400 box as a passive sub, so you would just remove the amp and plate the hole. Or, go with a plate amp and retrofit that to the box. Which ever route you take, just feed the thing the same as any other sub and keep the PT800 on a 80Hz XO. With most AVRs that would mean taking the sub output to your amp, with the AVR set for 80Hz crossover. It's not ideal, but none of the options are.

You can do what some of us have done, which is to stockpile parts and even complete PS1400 for spares. But that doesn't help you in the short term. They do show up from time to time though. If you're lucky enough to find one with a second generation amp, there's a fair chance it will be trouble-free.

jener8tionx
09-10-2013, 08:05 PM
If you read through my posts below I had one go bad. I parted out the rest of my PS1400s, but I still have a working amp. if you are interested, hit me up via PM and I'm sure we can work something out.


I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

Thanks, Scott

rpatt
12-08-2013, 06:46 AM
If the board itself is bad, you're out of luck.
There's no way to duplicate the native function of the PS1400, which is separate control of LF and LFE inputs and levels. Best option seems to me to treat the 1400 box as a passive sub, so you would just remove the amp and plate the hole. Or, go with a plate amp and retrofit that to the box. Which ever route you take, just feed the thing the same as any other sub and keep the PT800 on a 80Hz XO. With most AVRs that would mean taking the sub output to your amp, with the AVR set for 80Hz crossover. It's not ideal, but none of the options are.

You can do what some of us have done, which is to stockpile parts and even complete PS1400 for spares. But that doesn't help you in the short term. They do show up from time to time though. If you're lucky enough to find one with a second generation amp , there's a fair chance it will be trouble-free.

Is there a way to know if you have a "second generation amp" such as by serial number?

rdgrimes
12-08-2013, 07:01 AM
Is there a way to know if you have a "second generation amp" such as by serial number?

The rev # is stamped on the amp circuit board.
I've also noted that early amps have screws holding the plastic box on the amp, where later amps have none. Can't say if that's a relevant indicator.

rpatt
12-08-2013, 10:59 PM
The rev # is stamped on the amp circuit board.
I've also noted that early amps have screws holding the plastic box on the amp, where later amps have none. Can't say if that's a relevant indicator.

Thanks for the information RD.

JBLAddict
07-26-2014, 04:14 PM
For this evening's magic trick - I am going to make every single PS1400/PT800 stack owner look at the binding posts of their speakers.

How, you ask?

Well, I picked up a new AVR today and was running Audyssey to see how it worked with the new P series setup. It pointed to a phase error on the right speaker, which I found quite odd. After checking just about everything else, I noticed that the binding posts on my right PS1400 were backwards.

I removed to amp to get access, color coding of the wiring matched the binding posts, but the mounting plate itself was rotated 180 degrees. I had never even checked this as the decking arrangement essentially error proofs this. But sure enough, it was backwards, meaning the decked PT800 was in fact out of phase. Text is supposed to be to the back of the PS1400... pick below shows the backwards original installation.

This is the 2nd time I've found such an issue, first time was on a brand new Boston Acoustics VRC center channel that came wired backwards from the factory.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9435/img1465n.th.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/img1465n.jpg/)

Hi All, long time no post. So.....I went back to this thread to find some other pieces of information and came across this post, which the first time I read it, was not yet a PS owner, as I have been now for 2.5yrs. Well, as embarrassing as it is, my right front PS1400 has the plate backward, so I ran some phase testing and sure enough, FL/FR were out of phase!! :banghead:

All this time, I've been nagged by the superior sonic character but inferior imaging of the PS stack compared to the L7s they replaced. Alls well that ends well I suppose, but extremely frustrating nonetheless.... hope the forum is well.....and thanks Slare wherever you are for bringing this nugget to light.

rdgrimes
09-04-2014, 03:24 PM
This is looking like a hopeless search.

I need a tweeter. 335663-001 or 335663-002 or even 361194-001. I do have a pair of S26II but alas the tweeter will not work.

Also need a handful of the little 6 x 3/4 pocket head mounting screws.

Probably going to wind up buying some old S26 to rob the tweeter. But if anyone has one or two here's your chance to profit. I'd even swap the S26II for a pair of S26.

FWIW, I also note that different PT800 have slight variations in the tweeter mounts. Some have washers under the plastic flanges, some do not. Actually the one from the S26II might work but it won't drop into the plastic flange with the correct orientation.

rdgrimes
09-11-2014, 08:06 AM
Following up: I found a pair of S38 being parted out and grabbed the tweeters. Part # 335663-001 and a perfect fit in the PT800 EOS with no spacers.

jblsound
12-09-2014, 11:57 AM
With the need to accommodate toward getting a larger flat screen (right now only a 32") I decided to do a mod of one of my PT800s for center channel use. Cut a circle around the tweeter/mid to make a rotating module so the HF/MF will always be in vertical alignment for either vertical or horizontal placement.

Required four things...a quality, heavy jigsaw, with a smooth motion, an eagle eye and a steady hand. And lastly, a material that would fill the saw kerf and hold the module in place by friction. That material was a strip of vinyl with a thickness between 1/16 ~ 1/8", which was both firm enough and also soft enough to grab onto the module. Thus no screws or bolts needed to keep it in place.

Although, I did add a pair of finish bolts to act as handles to remove or turn the module, w/o having to remove the midrange driver.
I also decided not to use the TV/center stand I have been using. Instead mounted the mod PT800 to one of the subs.

rpatt
12-12-2014, 06:17 AM
With the need to accommodate toward getting a larger flat screen (right now only a 32") I decided to do a mod of one of my PT800s for center channel use. Cut a circle around the tweeter/mid to make a rotating module so the HF/MF will always be in vertical alignment for either vertical or horizontal placement.

Required four things...a quality, heavy jigsaw, with a smooth motion, an eagle eye and a steady hand. And lastly, a material that would fill the saw kerf and hold the module in place by friction. That material was a strip of vinyl with a thickness between 1/16 ~ 1/8", which was both firm enough and also soft enough to grab onto the module. Thus no screws or bolts needed to keep it in place.

Although, I did add a pair of finish bolts to act as handles to remove or turn the module, w/o having to remove the midrange driver.
I also decided not to use the TV/center stand I have been using. Instead mounted the mod PT800 to one of the subs.

Nice! How many PT800's do you have?

jblsound
12-12-2014, 10:00 AM
Nice! How many PT800's do you have?

I have 5 PT800s and never had a PC600 or the PS1400s.
I've been running a vertical center since '02. First a L212 (7 L212s in that system) then a PT800 (5 PT800, 2 L212(rears) in that system). Right now I am using 3 PT800 (surrounds), mod PT800 center, 2 Custom MJC212 for the mains.

rdgrimes
12-12-2014, 02:40 PM
I recently built a PT800 from scrounged parts and was surprised at how much room there is in the top end. Its amazing how much low end they get from the 8" driver in that little bitty box. Anyhow I'm up to 8 of them now, 2 are spares. 2 spare PS1400 as well, also built from scrounge.

jblsound
12-12-2014, 03:40 PM
I recently built a PT800 from scrounged parts and was surprised at how much room there is in the top end. Its amazing how much low end they get from the 8" driver in that little bitty box. Anyhow I'm up to 8 of them now, 2 are spares. 2 spare PS1400 as well, also built from scrounge.

Did you use the stock PS XOs?
When I first opened up one of my PT800s, I could hardly believe how little insulation was used.
Nowhere near the amount used in the L212s. The more insulation placed in a MB/B sub compartment, the larger the virtual volume of that space. And the larger the volume, the lower the roll off point is.

My chances of getting more PS is probably less than getting parts for the 212s.
I know I can get the 052Ti from Orange County Speaker, for the 212.
But right now of the 5 PT800s, only using 4.

But now living in a climate of constant 70% humidity, should totally eliminate dry rot. A big problem in NV. with older drivers.

rpatt
12-13-2014, 10:36 PM
Ebay has pretty much dried up for PS speakers & parts. I have one spare HTPS400, one PS1400 & two Audax Tweeters (taken from S26's). I'm thinking that I would like to eventually try Dolby Atmos and that four PT800's would make perfect ceiling speakers. We'll see how that works out.

jblsound
12-14-2014, 04:18 AM
Ebay has pretty much dried up for PS speakers & parts. I have one spare HTPS400, one PS1400 & two Audax Tweeters (taken from S26's). I'm thinking that I would like to eventually try Dolby Atmos and that four PT800's would make perfect ceiling speakers. We'll see how that works out.

ATMOS is one thing I have no desire to get into. Its really about getting the LCRs placed right.
When they are right, the soundstage is huge for both music and movies.
I don't see where ATMOS will be any better than width/height channels.
And from what I've seen, most people who use W/H channels and think they need them, either have really lame LCRs or not optimally setup, or both.
I'm running 6 channels(nowhere to place #7), and I feel I am missing nothing.

rdgrimes
12-14-2014, 09:15 AM
Ebay has pretty much dried up for PS speakers & parts.

Ask and ye shall receive:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Consumer-Electronics-/293/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=jm2579

RedCoat23
12-14-2014, 01:15 PM
Aww crap... :banghead:

I promised myself not to spend any money and the 7th and final PT800 to shows up to go with my orphaned 7th PS1400
Thanks RdGrimes - and I mean that in the nicest way possible. Now I have a decision to make.

rdgrimes
12-14-2014, 09:21 PM
Aww crap... :banghead:

I promised myself not to spend any money and the 7th and final PT800 to shows up to go with my orphaned 7th PS1400
Thanks RdGrimes - and I mean that in the nicest way possible. Now I have a decision to make.

I suspect he mistakenly priced the PT800 listing for 2, when in fact its for one (but he has 2 of them available).

RedCoat23
12-14-2014, 10:13 PM
I suspect he mistakenly priced the PT800 listing for 2, when in fact its for one (but he has 2 of them available).

I think you might be right there. Given he's charging just under $400 for the PC600, doesn't make sense to almost double the price for the PT800. I've messaged him to see what he says.

rpatt
12-17-2014, 06:38 AM
Decent price for the PS1400's.

rdgrimes
12-17-2014, 07:44 AM
Decent price for the PS1400's.

Absent the factory packing, value is debatable when shipping is involved. The seller doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. But if the driver and amp arrive intact, you haven't done too bad.

Davethreshold
12-19-2014, 03:04 PM
I saw it over a year ago, and found a PC600 center at the JBL page. I believe I paid $500-$600 for it, and just the other day got it hooked up. I was using some very good, home-brew speakers with Dynaudio and Focal drivers, and I have always loved them. After hooking it up, even though it was the only unit of series in the system, I honestly think the whole room was better sounding for film. So I started searching for the satellite's, which hardly come up anywhere.

I found a PAIR of the PT800’s, and they were located 5 miles from where I live! So I talked to the guy who said there was a tiny ding on one of the 8’s. He has the subs, but I decided to stick with mine which are very similar to a pair of Muse model 18’s. I am using the Ultradrive crossover, set to 48/octave at 80 hz on them and the subs. I am using a Threshold S-450e on the top, and an S-350e on the subs.........

I am nothing less than stunned - STUNNED at how good these sound!! With every speaker that I have ever owned, and like many people here, I have owned a LOT of them, I always wanted to change something. Maybe they were great on 90% of the music, but blatty on that one song, or the midrange would have a color in it somewhere. Not with these. They simply do everything right. There is NOTHING about them that I would change.

I’m in the state of audio shock just a little bit here. At 62 I have done a lot of stuff on my audio bucket-list, but these are a game changer. There is only one more thing that I will try, which is a pair of 50” BG ribbons, but I have to build the baffles etc. If I had found these first, I would not have bought the B.G.’s

Anyway, the first speakers that I ever bought of any significance were the JBL C-36 001’s, with the pale grilles, and aluminum legs. That was when I was 18, and in terms of companies, I guess that means my search has come cull circle.

Once again, I thank everybody for this thread because without it I never would have HEARD of this incredibly rare series at all. :D

rdgrimes
12-19-2014, 03:33 PM
I found a PAIR of the PT800’s, and they were located 5 miles from where I live! So I talked to the guy who said there was a tiny ding on one of the 8’s. He has the subs, but I decided to stick with mine which are very similar to a pair of Muse model 18’s. I am using the Ultradrive crossover, set to 48/octave at 80 hz on them and the subs. I am using a Threshold S-450e on the top, and an S-350e on the subs.........


Go back and get the PS1400. There's some more magic that happens when the PT800 is bolted to one.

JBLAddict
12-19-2014, 09:04 PM
Go back and get the PS1400. There's some more magic that happens when the PT800 is bolted to one.

correction, much more magic ;)

if you're "stunned" by the PT alone, the authority that will come with a crossover matched 14" PS1400 carrying 28-130Hz will have you searching for another verb. Do yourself a favor and rush to hear them they way they were fully intended.

and the "uninspired" sale in LaGrange makes local pickup a possibility.

rpatt
12-19-2014, 09:18 PM
Absent the factory packing, value is debatable when shipping is involved. The seller doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. But if the driver and amp arrive intact, you haven't done too bad.

He couldn't sell them for $390 so he re-lists them for $420. Interesting strategy.

rdgrimes
12-22-2014, 10:37 AM
Down to $385 today. Somebody needs to go get them.

rpatt
12-30-2014, 05:41 AM
I guess it helps to look around. I bought a NIB PC600 for $300 on AudiogoN today.

Davethreshold
12-31-2014, 01:55 PM
Sorry to get back to this thread so late, but I had severe Inet problems.
Yes, the Ebayer below is the guy I bought them from. He’s a good guy, and his brick and mortar store went belly-up a few years ago, when the entire strip mall was foreclosed upon. He does audio install-construction now, and I’m sure that he is capable of crating anything that he ships. I just now saw that he sold one of the subs, but I decided to stick with mine anyway.

Looking at it, I might have paid too much for the PT800’s He came down to $1,100 with no grilles, or boxes, but he lives about FIVE MILES from me! I was not able to audition them, so I did something that I have never done before, and it was a gamble that really paid off! I bought them sight-unheard. I am really GLAD that I did. It is entirely because of the raves on this thread that I did that. Almost everybody who has had these things want A LOT of coin for them, so to me it was a good deal. Honestly for a total of $1,200, I can’t believe that there is ANYTHING out there that could kiss the feet of these! LOL I bought the PC600 NOS from JBL. I think I paid $499.

So before buying them, I contacted JBL, and they had three grilles left. (part #336615-001) I bought two for $100 delivered, and I SUPPOSE I will put them on today. LOL I LOVE the way that the inverted domes look, and I hate to cover them up, but I will. My estimate is they still have one grille left which is about $50 delivered, and well packed.

Anyway, the graph in the pics was made with my new toy, the Parts Express Omni-mic. It is after working with the Ultradrive crossover, which has a fully adjustable e.q. in the three different bands that it controls. I have just scratched the surface with it, and later I will post some graphs of close-mic PT800’s. I want to see what the actual acoustic crossovers turn out to be. I used 1/24th octave smoothing which is very revealing.

A few random notes: It seems that they are out of ALL of the parts for them. I asked about the midranges, woofers, tweeters, the 14” PolyPlass and others, and they were all zero stock. My advice would be that if you need anything, call them ANYWAY, just to make sure. They do have a boat-load of grilles left for the 1400 subs, about 17 when I asked about them. :D

Davethreshold
12-31-2014, 01:56 PM
I guess it helps to look around. I bought a NIB PC600 for $300 on AudiogoN today.
LOL That is what I call, "Robbing the BANK!" Good one!

RedCoat23
12-31-2014, 07:20 PM
Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the PS club :)

I want one spare tweeter and one more PT800 to complete my 7 identical channel setup

Davethreshold
12-31-2014, 09:02 PM
Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the PS club :)

I want one spare tweeter and one more PT800 to complete my 7 identical channel setup
Thank you! Yeah, I THINK it's the same tweet used in the S-38, the 38IIs and many others. I am going to take another whack at seeing if they have any left. I don't need it now, but just in case. If not, that means they abandoned A LOT of speakers. I suppose that happened when they moved to China?
You must have the surround system that GOD uses. LOL :)

rdgrimes
12-31-2014, 09:23 PM
Thank you! Yeah, I THINK it's the same tweet used in the S-38, the 38IIs and many others.

Actually, only the tweets from the S38 will work, not the S38II. Also the S26, S-Center, etc. Same part number as the PS tweets, made in France. The II series tweets have a completely different mounting in the wave guide.

They're pretty easy to pick up on eBay if you're patient.

Davethreshold
12-31-2014, 10:28 PM
Thank you rdgrimes.
So what do you all think would be the closest match to the PT800's for me to use in the rear channels for now? For starters, I'm thinking a pair of S38's would sure sound good, but of course I want them to be close to the PT800s. IDK. A pair of 800s might be too large for the rears, so in terms of size and everything the S38s would work well. Can be EASILY found for $200. - A steal.

rdgrimes
01-01-2015, 06:17 AM
Thank you rdgrimes.
So what do you all think would be the closest match to the PT800's for me to use in the rear channels for now? For starters, I'm thinking a pair of S38's would sure sound good, but of course I want them to be close to the PT800s. IDK. A pair of 800s might be too large for the rears, so in terms of size and everything the S38s would work well. Can be EASILY found for $200. - A steal.
Well, I use PT800 all around in a 7 ch system, so you know what I'm going to say. But yes the S38 might be a decent substitute.

JBLAddict
01-01-2015, 05:49 PM
Thank you rdgrimes.
A pair of 800s might be too large for the rears, so in terms of size and everything the S38s would work well

if cost/availability is the key factor then yes, a tweeter matched bookshelf from the S series (S36 or 38) makes sense

but if size is the concern consider the PT, while 50% larger at the face, is only 6" deep compared to 13" for the S38. In my case they are wall mounted along a narrow 3' pass beside the couch, something a deep enclosure could not provide.

rdgrimes
01-01-2015, 08:04 PM
but if size is the concern consider the PT, while 50% larger at the face, is only 6" deep compared to 13" for the S38. In my case they are wall mounted along a narrow 3' pass beside the couch, something a deep enclosure could not provide.

There's also the corner mount option, they tuck into a corner nice and snug. The corner mount brackets help. (PCM800)

rpatt
01-02-2015, 08:07 PM
Thank you rdgrimes.
So what do you all think would be the closest match to the PT800's for me to use in the rear channels for now? For starters, I'm thinking a pair of S38's would sure sound good, but of course I want them to be close to the PT800s. IDK. A pair of 800s might be too large for the rears, so in terms of size and everything the S38s would work well. Can be EASILY found for $200. - A steal.

Congratulations and Happy New Year to you. The P520WS was also used for surround duty with the PS system but IMO the PT800 is the best option. Parts are definitely a problem. I'm always looking on ebay for damaged or parted out PS speakers. I've ended up with one spare PS1400, two HTPS400's, one PC600 & two Audax tweeters.

Davethreshold
01-04-2015, 11:54 PM
Lot's of good advice!

Has anybody tried THIS idea, which means acquiring more of them:
Take a second pair of PT 800's, flip them upside down, then stack them on your last pair. The original pair would have to be lowered of course. IOW this would give it a W-M-TT-M-W array. Very vaguely, the distortion for a given output would be reduced, and it would give them a HUGE sound, because right now they have a BIG sound. One disadvantage would be the impedance would be a bit brutal, but my amp would handle it. (They would have to be run parallel.)

That idea is bound to keep SOMEBODY up at night! :D

rdgrimes
01-05-2015, 09:06 AM
Lot's of good advice!

Has anybody tried THIS idea, which means acquiring more of them:
Take a second pair of PT 800's, flip them upside down, then stack them on your last pair.

I can think of better uses for an extra pair of PT800, but that's me.

rdgrimes
01-21-2015, 03:00 PM
That last used PS1400 on eBay went for $280 today. Cripes, the driver is worth that much. :crying:

RedCoat23
01-21-2015, 03:10 PM
I saw that. Wish PT800's would show up and go for that low... :(

bonosurf
02-05-2015, 03:06 PM
I used to work for a company that did certification testing on consumer and pro audio systems. They did work on the Performance series and I ended up with a prototype PC600 system. I recently took the system out of storage and found an issue with MF driver. By applying light pressure to the diaphragm you could feel/hear a "crunch" in the VC/gap. The VC DC resistance was in spec and an impedance sweep of the driver showed that there was some obstruction in the gap. I removed the surround, diaphragm and VC to find massive amounts of material in the gap. The VC was pristine. Looking at the residue under a microscope it appears that the plating on the pole structure as corroded and fallen into the gap. This appears to be an issue since this loudspeaker system was only exposed to home/office level humidity (average nothern california indoor environment).

rpatt
02-09-2015, 03:54 AM
I used to work for a company that did certification testing on consumer and pro audio systems. They did work on the Performance series and I ended up with a prototype PC600 system. I recently took the system out of storage and found an issue with MF driver. By applying light pressure to the diaphragm you could feel/hear a "crunch" in the VC/gap. The VC DC resistance was in spec and an impedance sweep of the driver showed that there was some obstruction in the gap. I removed the surround, diaphragm and VC to find massive amounts of material in the gap. The VC was pristine. Looking at the residue under a microscope it appears that the plating on the pole structure as corroded and fallen into the gap. This appears to be an issue since this loudspeaker system was only exposed to home/office level humidity (average nothern california indoor environment).

You mentioned that this was a prototype. I wonder if the production models are made of the same materials as I have never heard of this problem.

Dylanl
03-03-2015, 11:08 PM
Can someone help me with my 2 PS1400s and trying to match the output exactly. How would that be done? spl meter while adjusting the gain on the back?

LF crossover set to normal, seems if the LF level is set the same on both one is slightly louder than the other. These dials are not calibrated to one another.

suggestions please, thank u

jblsound
03-04-2015, 03:46 AM
Can someone help me with my 2 PS1400s and trying to match the output exactly. How would that be done? spl meter while adjusting the gain on the back?

LF crossover set to normal, seems if the LF level is set the same on both one is slightly louder than the other. These dials are not calibrated to one another.

suggestions please, thank u

Could be the room. I would turn off one sub, run the pink noise through the other, check the spl from the LP.
Then turn off that sub and turn the other on. Repeat the signal through the second sub and adjust so its at the same spl as the first.

rdgrimes
03-04-2015, 08:33 AM
Mine measure close to 5db different purely because of the room placement. There's only so much you can do about that. This is why we have AVRs and processors with PEQ and level adjustment. If you're running a simple stereo setup without the benefit of DSP, and no LFE input, be aware that only the "LF" knob effects the speaker level input. The "LFE" knob effects only the LFE input. There's also a difference in whether you are switched to "normal" or "separate" mode.

Dylanl
03-04-2015, 11:16 AM
Yes I am running only 2 channel and switches set to LF crossover - normal, polarity - normal. I have only speaker wires running in from the amp. No LFE so, If I have the LF level set to full open throttle ( would be 5 on the dial) on both they should be both be receiving the full signal right? The only thing the dial does is back off from full right?

I just noticed one was set low and the other high. Some kid must have got back there and messed with it. Anyway now at wide open the bass is almost overpowering. I would still like to get them matched?

rdgrimes
03-04-2015, 11:44 AM
Yes I am running only 2 channel and switches set to LF crossover - normal, polarity - normal. I have only speaker wires running in from the amp. No LFE so, If I have the LF level set to full open throttle ( would be 5 on the dial) on both they should be both be receiving the full signal right? The only thing the dial does is back off from full right?

I just noticed one was set low and the other high. Some kid must have got back there and messed with it. Anyway now at wide open the bass is almost overpowering. I would still like to get them matched?

Level settings are all relative. I'd start with them both at 12:00 and use them to get your desired response curve. That will be different for each one due to placement. With the crossover set to "normal" you are adjusting the octaves below 130Hz (rolled off up to 300Hz). Absent the ability to run a spectrum analyzer, I'd use pink noise and adjust them by ear one at a time. Once that's done I'd use the amp to adjust level L to R.

Here, they get a LOT of reinforcement from walls behind and at 1.5 ft from the wall they have a good 6-8db spike at 60Hz. Placed near a corner that can be more than 10db.

Dylanl
03-04-2015, 12:13 PM
So wide open, turned full right does not make them equal? I would think it would from a signal standpoint, forget the room at this time.

I am wondering how everyone else that listens to 2 channel sets theirs up? I can't be the only one that has noticed this right?

measuring close to the cone then is best ?

rdgrimes
03-04-2015, 12:26 PM
I think the point being made is that there's no such thing as "equal" unless you're measuring each in the same location. Use the balance control in your amp to adjust Lt - Rt. Use the LF control to get the response curve you want. (which could be different for each one)

There's no compelling reason to set the LF knob to max unless your response curve demands it. I have mine near to 12:00 and still get a big spike at 60Hz. If I was shooting for a very flat curve I'd have them lower than that. Absent any EQ you're going to be trading 30Hz levels for 60Hz levels, so do what sounds good to you.

If you have a burning interest in knowing for sure whether your 2 PS1400 are putting out the same levels, swap them L-R and see if you get the same results.

Dylanl
03-09-2015, 04:35 PM
I just opened up my tweeters because they sounded a little different. Here's what I found, looks like two different tweeters. they measure the same with a meter, the 335663-001 is correct right? Can I get a replacement?

Thanks

rdgrimes
03-09-2015, 07:12 PM
I just opened up my tweeters because they sounded a little different. Here's what I found, looks like two different tweeters. they measure the same with a meter, the 335663-001 is correct right? Can I get a replacement?

Thanks

Correct, looks like someone swapped in a different part. The best source for that tweeter is the S26, S38 and S310/312. Not the "ll" versions with grey cones, but the ones with copper cones.

Dylanl
03-09-2015, 08:17 PM
I just checked my PC600 and it has the same odd tweeter. 050625. Are you sure this is not the tweeter that JBL used once they discontinued the 335663-001?

rdgrimes
03-09-2015, 08:27 PM
I just checked my PC600 and it has the same odd tweeter. 050625. Are you sure this is not the tweeter that JBL used once they discontinued the 335663-001?

You'd have to check with JBL. All I can tell you is that 335663-001 is the part number listed by JBL in all the above speakers.

rpatt
03-10-2015, 12:32 AM
I just checked my PC600 and it has the same odd tweeter. 050625. Are you sure this is not the tweeter that JBL used once they discontinued the 335663-001?

Yes that is the tweeter JBL used after the 335663-001. The problem I found with it is that it is jury-rigged together. I received one of my PT800's with the tweeter loose from the wave guide. I found that the tweeter dome was glued into the plastic frame then bolted to the wave guide. The tweeter dome was hanging from the wires inside the cabinet. I have since replaced all tweeters in my PT800's & PC600 with the original. They show up on e-bay or as mentioned can be taken from S26, S38, S310, S312. One other thing, the replacement tweeter uses small washers as spacers when bolting to the wave guide. The original does not need these.

rdgrimes
03-10-2015, 04:43 AM
One other thing, the replacement tweeter uses small washers as spacers when bolting to the wave guide. The original does not need these.

Just to add to the confusion, some need the washers and some don't. The plastic ring on the front of the tweeter should be just flush with the wave guide. You may or may not need spacers to accomplish that properly. I took one out of an S38, where it had washers, and put it into a PT800 where it didn't need them.

Dylanl
03-10-2015, 09:24 AM
If anyone has a tweeter I would really appreciate if you would sell one to me. Hearing was one thing seeing the difference has confirmed what I heard.

[email protected] is my email, thank you

Brett

rdgrimes
03-10-2015, 11:00 AM
I was unaware that JBL used anything but the 335663-001 in production. Shows you what I know.

Anyhow you'll find them on eBay from time to time, and derelict s-series models and parts are fairly common.
S26, S38, S-Center, S310, S312, S412 all use the same one. In the last year I have acquired three at reasonable cost, but they're not for sale.

4313B
03-10-2015, 11:36 AM
I was unaware that JBL used anything but the 335663-001 in production. Shows you what I know.Vendors change. :o:

Dylanl
03-10-2015, 12:47 PM
So is the 050625 an inferior tweeter? Mine are both in good shape.
I have one also in my center channel which I could move to the one PT800 so at least left and the right match and then put the 335633–001 in the center.

rdgrimes
03-10-2015, 03:12 PM
So is the 050625 an inferior tweeter? .

It is if it sounds different than the other. Apart from that, if its a 1" pure titanium dome it should be adequate. Your idea of swapping from the center to L-R is not a bad one.

Now I'm gonna be busy opening up 10 different PS speakers to check. Thanks! :p

rdgrimes
03-10-2015, 03:53 PM
Thanks to hex heads and high speed electric screwdrivers, i got all mine out in about 15 min. They're all the original tweeter, the 335663-001.

rpatt
03-10-2015, 08:08 PM
The way the replacement tweeter is jury-rigged together, "My Guess", is that JBL took defective original Audax tweeters, cut out the defective dome assembly and glued in the replacement dome. If they work and stay glued together then they are OK. I couldn't tell any difference in sound.

Dylanl
03-10-2015, 08:47 PM
I think you would only hear the difference if you did an a verse b. I would be interested if anyone's done that.
I've had the speakers for years but they've been in my HT I only started listening to them in 2 channel the other day. At first I thought it was my amp but then after looking through this thread I got inquisitive.

rpatt
03-16-2015, 05:17 AM
Here's a tweeter on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-JBL-S38-Tweeter-335663-001-Original-Fast-Free-Shipping-/301560059684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4636615724

rpatt
04-10-2015, 04:16 AM
This ebayer repairs many types of sub plate amps. Below is the link for the HTPS400. I didn't see the PS1400 but they might be able to repair that as well. Anyone ever heard of them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-HTPS400-Powered-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Plate-Repair-Service-/251905673747

rdgrimes
04-10-2015, 04:52 AM
This ebayer repairs many types of sub plate amps. Below is the link for the HTPS400. I didn't see the PS1400 but they might be able to repair that as well. Anyone ever heard of them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-HTPS400-Powered-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Plate-Repair-Service-/251905673747

When I had my HTPS400 repaired, it was here: http://www.jbl-speaker.com/entrance.asp

bobwhite
04-04-2016, 12:46 PM
Mike Baker told me to check here on help selling my performance series speakers that i bought brand new. I have pt600 center and two pt800 and matching subs for both ps1400s. The green light on subs dont light and sub not producing sound on them. Any help on how I might find someone who would be interested in them would be great. Thanks

rdgrimes
04-04-2016, 01:05 PM
Mike Baker told me to check here on help selling my performance series speakers that i bought brand new. I have pt600 center and two pt800 and matching subs for both ps1400s. The green light on subs dont light and sub not producing sound on them. Any help on how I might find someone who would be interested in them would be great. Thanks

Those sub amps do fail at a pretty high rate. The good news is that the driver is worth as much as the whole sub. eBay value for the PT800 and PC600 has fallen pretty far.

FWIW, what are you replacing them with?

bobwhite
04-04-2016, 01:22 PM
not replacing with anything just downsizing. Just trying to find a good home for these.

Titanium Dome
04-05-2016, 12:33 PM
not replacing with anything just downsizing. Just trying to find a good home for these.
Black Ash, Cherry, or Birch finish?

pathfindermwd
04-07-2016, 06:50 PM
Mike Baker told me to check here on help selling my performance series speakers that i bought brand new. I have pt600 center and two pt800 and matching subs for both ps1400s. The green light on subs dont light and sub not producing sound on them. Any help on how I might find someone who would be interested in them would be great. Thanks

Hi Bob, I tried to sell my P.S. setup here recently but ended up selling them on ebay (for a pretty good price). The guy I sold them to wanted a pt600, I could ask if he's still looking if you would like. The rest might sell on ebay, but you have to be patient. Ebay is not always the greatest experience but it's probably the best way to sell. I tried craigslist but after 3 people came to audition them without buying, I realized why people sell things on ebay.

wu6fiend
02-10-2017, 07:00 PM
Just a bump for a great thread. I'm looking for a pair (or four) PT800s to complete my Performance Series lineup. If anyone has, or knows of some/any for sale, regardless of condition, a PM would be appreciated.

wu6fiend
08-31-2017, 08:13 PM
Yesterday I finally got my Performance Series set up for 2 channel audio. Docked the two PT800s above their PS1400s via the kit, and connected them via the gold jumper bars. Overall the set up was uneventful, but doing the bolts into the bottoms of the PT800s was a challenge due to the limited access. I have them powered by a Sony TA-N55ES/TA-E1000ESD combo.

The docked PT800 and PS1400 are certainly a weighty pair, but the supplied docking hardware do a great job of making them effectively one speaker (ie. I have no fear of the PT800 falling). The sound is pure and rich, and now that I have played with the setting, the bass is full without being overpowering. I'm really happy with these speakers!:D

For the future, I have purchased the PT800 mounting brackets, and two brand new PS1400 amps (just in case), along with the PC600 and another pair of PT800. One day, if I can find a third pair of PT800s, I will set up the Performance Series in 7.2 configuration.

RedCoat23
08-31-2017, 08:30 PM
Yesterday I finally got my Performance Series set up for 2 channel audio. Docked the two PT800s above their PS1400s via the kit, and connected them via the gold jumper bars. Overall the set up was uneventful, but doing the bolts into the bottoms of the PT800s was a challenge due to the limited access. I have them powered by a Sony TA-N55ES/TA-E1000ESD combo.

The docked PT800 and PS1400 are certainly a weighty pair, but the supplied docking hardware do a great job of making them effectively one speaker (ie. I have no fear of the PT800 falling). The sound is pure and rich, and now that I have played with the setting, the bass is full without being overpowering. I'm really happy with these speakers!:D

For the future, I have purchased the PT800 mounting brackets, and two brand new PS1400 amps (just in case), along with the PC600 and another pair of PT800. One day, if I can find a third pair of PT800s, I will set up the Performance Series in 7.2 configuration.


:useless: well, maybe not worthless... but you know, certainly much better with! :thmbsup:

wu6fiend
12-16-2017, 09:59 AM
:useless: well, maybe not worthless... but you know, certainly much better with! :thmbsup:

They look like the standard PS stacks, nothing much to see (because the living room is so small, they are jammed in next to the L890s which are connected to the AVR). Today I purchased the third set of PT800s that I have been looking for. They appear to be in the best condition yet, and even have the wall mounting brackets still attached. I've been enjoying the stacked PT800/PS1400 combo for some time though, but I am going to move my Sony TA-E77ES/TA-N77ES setup from upstairs to the living room today, and see if there is any noticeable improvement. My options for placement in this room are limited (read: none), and the spot the Performance Series is occupying is probably not optimal (I'm noting the bass, while acceptable, is not as full as I would like). Time to play with some settings, and the present TA-E1000ESD preamp is really designed for surround applications, rather than 2 channel. My wife, who initially really disliked the appearance of the stacks, seems to have gotten used to them (or she has decided to ignore them). The cats have been delighted as they climb on them like a jungle gym.

wu6fiend
02-10-2018, 10:59 PM
Finally got around to taking a couple of pictures, both with and without grills. Due to the size and shape of our small living room, the placement is not optimal, but there's not much I can do about that. Anyway, I have changed the amplification to the Sony TA-E77ESD and TA-N77ES. Sorry about the photo orientation, not sure how to fix that (maybe somebody can suggest a fix?). The speaker next to the PS stack is an L890, part of the 7.1 setup.

Titanium Dome
02-12-2018, 07:26 PM
I get dizzy looking at your pictures, but I'm glad you have your Performance Series components finally in hand with all the PT800s you wanted.

Slare
10-01-2018, 06:57 AM
I know this topic has been beaten to death, but has anyone found and had success with a suitable plate amplifier with high level inputs?

My PS-1400 amps are slowly dying, I am down to one spare, and with four subs in service I don't think I have many years left. I have no issue opening up the hole in the box to mount a different plate amp, but it would be nice if it were big enough to only have to open up the hole and not make an adapter template, but not required.

I get that for home theater use there is no big problem using any standard plate amp and treating the PS1400's like standalone subs. The issue I have is this solution doesn't allow me to use (easily) the front PS1400/PT800 stacks as standalone 2ch speakers without also having my HT subs active. Just wondering if anyone has spent any time working with whatever plate amps are available out there with high level inputs, and has had good success.

My speakers aren't going anywhere. I'll use them with a normal plate amp in a compromised fashion if I have to. Any other affordable speaker system available these days uses much too wimpy of a center, I am in love with the front stage I get from this setup.

I suppose option B would be a suitable plate amp that has some sort of high pass built-in, so I can get a roll-off around below say 40Hz from the PS1400. I don't need them doing that heavy lifting if the HT subs are in the mix.

rdgrimes
10-01-2018, 08:24 AM
I know this topic has been beaten to death, but has anyone found and had success with a suitable plate amplifier with high level inputs?



I'd consider just sealing them up and use an external amp. You can still implement the passive 130Hz filter that's in it. Its pretty easy to come up with a decent stereo amp with enough power to drive them.

Slare
10-01-2018, 10:18 AM
I'd consider just sealing them up and use an external amp. You can still implement the passive 130Hz filter that's in it. Its pretty easy to come up with a decent stereo amp with enough power to drive them.

My AVR's only have one sub output, and I've already got two other 15" sealed subs with their own amps handling the heavy lifting. Right now I have my my fronts set with a 40hz hp crossover in surround mode, which keeps the heavy lifting off of them and on the real subs. And when I go to 2ch mode all I have is the stacks running at full range for music. And they get room EQ as a normal pair of tower loudspeakers for both modes. It's perfect.

Situation 1 would be using a normal plate amp. This changes my setup to be the fronts as high pass with a four sub system, two stack subs and two freestanding subs. I lose the ability to switch to a simple 2ch mode with only the stacks playing, all four subs must be in play and with the same crossover. I can live with this but don't want to if I don't have to. I don't want the PS1400's taking the beating of home theater bass, and I don't want to use the compromised 80Hz crossover point across the board.

But we can't always get what we want.

1audiohack
10-01-2018, 11:55 AM
Both of my 1500 Array sub amps ate it within one week of each other. For them the power supply and amp modules are still available but not the whole assembly. At least they are savable. This may be the case for yours if you can check.

Barry.

Robh3606
10-01-2018, 04:32 PM
Both of my 1500 Array sub amps ate it within one week of each other.

Wow I guess JBL just can't get these sub amps right!

Rob:)

Slare
10-02-2018, 05:30 AM
There was a plague of bad capacitors in the 2000 timeframe that hit a bunch of things, if you were into electronics at all at that time chances are you saw monitors, TV's, motherboards, etc., all puke with bad caps.

Plate amps aren't the most reliable thing on the planet to start with, and JBL (and all the associated brands) have never been great within that discipline. But the amps from that time frame are even worse. I have three failed amps on hand right now, and all three of them show bulging / leaking caps.

Dr.db
03-01-2019, 01:01 PM
After 5 minutes of TRULY AWESOME sound I notice some extreme woofer movement on the right and taking a closer look I see the surround of my very new LE14H3 flapping in the wind...so to speak.

After promptly shutting it down and examining the situation, I find that over half of the rubber surround has come completely off of the basket. Party Over!

The next day, I check the surround again. Did I push the woofer too hard? None of the paint of the basket came off with the glue, the rubber surround is pristine and undamaged. But even more telling is that when GENTLY pulling on the surround that is still attached, it peels right off with a brittle crackling.


Second, has anyone had this happen with their LE14H3's? Has anyone dealt with JBL on an issue like this? I bought the PS1400's new earlier this year.


Are the LE14H3 and LE14H4 prone to failure :confused:
Have others had similar problems?
Has jbl solfed these problems or are the current woofers prone to fail as well?

Robh3606
03-01-2019, 01:34 PM
Are the LE14H3 and LE14H4 prone to failure :confused:
Have others had similar problems?
Has jbl solfed these problems or are the current woofers prone to fail as well?

How old is that post?? I have been using LE14-3 for years no issues.
Rob:)

Titanium Dome
03-01-2019, 06:50 PM
How old is that post?? I have been using LE14-3 for years no issues.
Rob:)

Right. My 14-3s have been to hell and back in the "let's try this" department, and they just keep going.

Dr.db
03-03-2019, 01:43 PM
Good to hear, thanks for the feedback! ;)

I think the post was from 2012...

mariosav34
05-21-2020, 11:58 AM
Hey, reviving this ancient thread with a request. I just got a full 5.2 set of these speakers for very cheap but I am in need of a 904Ti driver for my center channel as the one in it is distorting badly at certain frequencies and lower volumes. Anyone here has/knows where to get one?

It's the last piece I need after removing the burned out plate amps from the PS1400s and now running them separately in a dual SW setup with a Behringer amp fed by my Denon AVR.

Thanks!

rdgrimes
05-21-2020, 01:01 PM
Hey, reviving this ancient thread with a request. I just got a full 5.2 set of these speakers for very cheap but I am in need of a 904Ti driver for my center channel as the one in it is distorting badly at certain frequencies and lower volumes. Anyone here has/knows where to get one?

It's the last piece I need after removing the burned out plate amps from the PS1400s and now running them separately in a dual SW setup with a Behringer amp fed by my Denon AVR.

Thanks!

The 904ti is pretty rare. They were only otherwise used in the tiK series and a few of the pro models from the Asian market, maybe another model or 2 from the EU market.
I have one that I bought off eBay ages ago, have never used it. Make me an offer by PM if you like.

mariosav34
05-21-2020, 08:01 PM
Just wanna say this is such an awesome community, posted a request for an incredibly hard to find component (been looking around for a few days already) and got a reply within 2h and a great deal within 4h. On a 16 year old thread...

Thanks!

Sam
11-07-2020, 09:26 PM
Hi, new to the forum. Just recently bought 4 PT800s for my system. These things sound amazingly beautiful. Words can not describe the detail these produce. I am now a JBL fan for life.

Mr. Widget
11-08-2020, 10:58 AM
Hi, new to the forum. Just recently bought 4 PT800s for my system. These things sound amazingly beautiful. Words can not describe the detail these produce. I am now a JBL fan for life.Welcome to the LHS Forum!

Do you have the matching 14" sub/bass modules too? Are you running these in a "Quad" system or as part of a HT system?


Widget

Sam
11-08-2020, 11:53 AM
Welcome to the LHS Forum!

Do you have the matching 14" sub/bass modules too? Are you running these in a "Quad" system or as part of a HT system?


Widget


Thanks, and no i don't have the matching PS1400s but I wish I did lol. I am using them as a part of a HT setup. I never knew of the clarity and details I was missing out on especially while playing music. I have my AVR set to deliver 80Hz and above, set on small so I dont damage them. I am so glad these came into my life. They have turned me audiophile lmao.

Titanium Dome
11-08-2020, 10:51 PM
Hi, new to the forum. Just recently bought 4 PT800s for my system. These things sound amazingly beautiful. Words can not describe the detail these produce. I am now a JBL fan for life.

As the starter of this thread way back in 2004 (!), I'd like to say welcome to the JBL Performance Series club. Receiving my first 5.1 set up was a memorable day for sure. I enjoyed that set up and added to it over time until it held the place of honor in my designated surround sound music room. There was a musicality and honesty to that system that was hard to beat.

When it was time to semi-retire and get out of LA to the beautiful Central California Coast, I sold 80% of all my JBL stuff, including most of that original Performance Series system. However, I kept four PT800s and a PC600, so one day I could put together an intimate surround sound dedicated system again.

lThe amps on those PS1400s were prone to failure. I already had them repaired once and didn't want to face that again, so all the subs are gone, but finding passive subs to supplement these remaining Performance Series speakers was easy, especially driving them with dedicated amps rather than the PS1400s unreliable internal amps.

It's the Ti inverted domes, the enclosure designs, and the network designs that make the magic in the system. Congratulations and enjoy!

Sam
11-09-2020, 08:17 AM
As the starters this thread way back in 2004 (!), I'd like to say welcome to the JBL Performance Series club. Receiving my first 5.1 set up was a memorable day for sure. I enjoyed that set up and added to it over time until it held the place of honor in my designated surround sound music room. There was a musicality and honesty to that system that was hard to beat.

When it was time to semi-retire and get out of LA to the beautiful Central California Coast, I sold 80% of all my JBL stuff, including most of that original Performance Series system. However, I kept four PT800s and a PC600, so one day I could put together an intimate surround sound dedicated system again. The amps on those PS1400s were prone to failure. I already had them repaired once and didn't want to face that again, so all the subs are gone, but finding passive subs to supplement these remaining Performance Series speakers was easy, especially driving them with dedicated amps rather than the PS1400s unreliable internal amps.

It's the Ti inverted domes, the enclosure design, and the network designs that make the magic in this system. Congratulations and enjoy!

Thanks, as of now I'm just running them with a Pioneer VSX-519V until I get my studio rack finished. I'm going to run dedicated amps for front and rear, as well as center and a dedicated sub. All ran through crossovers and equalization. I've toyed with the idea of bi amping but I scrapped that idea.

As much as I would like the PS1400s, they are super hard to find, and I have read the horror stories of their amp failure. They would be aesthetically pleasing though if I could stack them though.

howaboutthat41
12-09-2020, 10:06 AM
I am having a devil of a time getting the plate amp to separate from the plastic housing after wresting that pair of items from the speaker box. I am also not sure about how to handle the wires (especially the pair that attach near the upper back of the speaker box). Any insights appreciated! Thank you

rdgrimes
12-09-2020, 10:22 AM
I am having a devil of a time getting the plate amp to separate from the plastic housing after wresting that pair of items from the speaker box. I am also not sure about how to handle the wires (especially the pair that attach near the upper back of the speaker box). Any insights appreciated! Thank you

Not sure how that plastic box is attached to the amp, but they stick pretty good. There's a couple screws in the back that should come out.
The LP filter is located up by that connection plate, separate from the amp itself. Whether you keep that LP (130Hz) filter in line is up to you. I assume you are talking about removing the amp and running them as passive subs?

howaboutthat41
12-09-2020, 11:13 AM
Not sure how that plastic box is attached to the amp, but they stick pretty good. There's a couple screws in the back that should come out.
The LP filter is located up by that connection plate, separate from the amp itself. Whether you keep that LP (130Hz) filter in line is up to you. I assume you are talking about removing the amp and running them as passive subs?

Thank you, rdgrimes! I am considering sending the amps in for repair or, alternatively, treating them as passive subs. I finally did wrest the amps free (two of my four, so far). Any recommendations on repair versus external amps? I was thinking a set of two Behringer NX6000 amps, one per each set of two PS1400s, if I opt for the external route. If so, perhpas I could prevail upon you for some addiotnal inisghts in terms of how to wire the new amps to the subs (this is all new to me)? Thanks again!

rdgrimes
12-09-2020, 11:29 AM
Thank you, rdgrimes! I am considering sending the amps in for repair or, alternatively, treating them as passive subs. I finally did wrest the amps free (two of my four, so far). Any recommendations on repair versus external amps? I was thinking a set of two Behringer NX6000 amps, one per each set of two PS1400s, if I opt for the external route. If so, perhpas I could prevail upon you for some addiotnal inisghts in terms of how to wire the new amps to the subs (this is all new to me)? Thanks again!

Odds are good they only need minor repair, they used super cheap parts in sub amps. (still do). The trick is to find a place to do the work, I suggest finding someone local since shipping is loaded with issues. Best to take them in for repair as a complete unit, not just the amp.

Setting them up for passive duty is beyond my experience. I have replaced amps in the past, I think there are some folks around here that do this though so someone might turn up.

howaboutthat41
12-10-2020, 05:02 PM
Odds are good they only need minor repair, they used super cheap parts in sub amps. (still do). The trick is to find a place to do the work, I suggest finding someone local since shipping is loaded with issues. Best to take them in for repair as a complete unit, not just the amp.

Setting them up for passive duty is beyond my experience. I have replaced amps in the past, I think there are some folks around here that do this though so someone might turn up.



Thanks, again!

St. Anger
02-06-2021, 03:55 PM
Hi All,

I’m selling my 7 channel Performance Series, it’s listed on US Audio Mart. My system was posted here on post #1243.

howaboutthat41
02-07-2021, 08:31 PM
Hi All,

I’m selling my 7 channel Performance Series, it’s listed on US Audio Mart. My system was posted here on post #1243.

Sorry to see your note and listing — you had quite the impressive system. It seems like a general end of an era, to a degree. I loved when this thread was active.

AudioLover773
03-03-2021, 12:23 AM
Has anyone ever compared the PT800/PS1400 to the Studio 590 speakers (also a work of Greg Timbers)? People seem to rave about them online, so I'm tempted to add a set to my collection. I'm curious how they compare. I'm very interested in how the low crossover point of 1.5kHz affects vocals and imaging but I wonder if I can live with the high-frequency rolloff shown in the measurements of the review below, though it appears shallow and minimal or maybe I'm misunderstanding something. Take a look at the frequency response graph in this review.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjzjqGvypPvAhXkAZ0JHVsUDXkQFjAAegQIARAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.audiosciencereview.com%2Ffor um%2Findex.php%3Fattachments%2Fjbl-s590-australian-hifi-review-pdf.55356%2F&usg=AOvVaw3DV1U7GkAOHD2YMpOWCJG4

rdgrimes
06-07-2021, 10:10 AM
If anyone is looking for parts or complete speakers, here's a deal, (no affliation):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274824814053?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

2x PT800 and a PC600.

Edit: already gone.

AudioLover773
11-06-2021, 04:53 PM
I think I've damaged one of my PT800's tweeters. It measures 6 dB lower in output vs my other 3 PT800s, so I opened it up to swap it with another to make sure the tweeter is the culprit, and when I did that, I discovered that all my tweeters have the part number 050625 on their backs. Has anyone found out what was going on with the two different part numbers? Is one better than the other? I was about to buy one of the S speakers to harvest the tweeter, but now I'm thinking I'll need a pair or two so that they'll all match, and I'm wondering how they'll sound different.

Anyone have any success buying the tweeters by themselves? What's their list price? I read that someone was able to buy them from a Canadian distributor. How does one go about doing it that way?

The S-Center uses the 335663-001 tweeter right? I looked it up, and this service manual gives a part number 40DT25BC-DT01. Does this mean that I can buy that tweeter and use it in the PT800? Has anyone taken a tweeter out of an S-Center and confirmed that it is the right tweeter?

https://servicemanuals.us/jbl/audio/s-center-studio-series.html




I just opened up my tweeters because they sounded a little different. Here's what I found, looks like two different tweeters. they measure the same with a meter, the 335663-001 is correct right? Can I get a replacement?

Thanks

rdgrimes
11-06-2021, 07:21 PM
I think I've damaged one of my PT800's tweeters. It measures 6 dB lower in output vs my other 3 PT800s, so I opened it up to swap it with another to make sure the tweeter is the culprit, and when I did that, I discovered that all my tweeters have the part number 050625 on their backs. Has anyone found out what was going on with the two different part numbers? Is one better than the other? I was about to buy one of the S speakers to harvest the tweeter, but now I'm thinking I'll need a pair or two so that they'll all match, and I'm wondering how they'll sound different.

Anyone have any success buying the tweeters by themselves? What's their list price? I read that someone was able to buy them from a Canadian distributor. How does one go about doing it that way?

The S-Center uses the 335663-001 tweeter right? I looked it up, and this service manual gives a part number 40DT25BC-DT01. Does this mean that I can buy that tweeter and use it in the PT800?

https://servicemanuals.us/jbl/audio/s-center-studio-series.html

My recollection is that there are 2 versions, but the only difference is in the way they mount into the waveguide. With a little finesse they should be interchangeable. Maybe someone else will chime in, but I think there's a sort of a spacer that gets added or subtracted. Been quite a while since I had one apart.

Titanium Dome
11-07-2021, 11:56 AM
My recollection is that there are 2 versions, but the only difference is in the way they mount into the waveguide. With a little finesse they should be interchangeable. Maybe someone else will chime in, but I think there's a sort of a spacer that gets added or subtracted. Been quite a while since I had one apart.

Your memory serves you well, RD. I've harvested those Ti tweeters from S Series units and a little finesse is all it takes for a correct mount. I've used both metal and steel small washers to do this, and I've noticed no difference between the two. Early on, I used plastic so as not to add any metal near the magnet, but of course the screws are metal, so...

rdgrimes
11-07-2021, 02:11 PM
Your memory serves you well, RD. I've harvested those Ti tweeters from S Series units and a little finesse is all it takes for a correct mount. I've used both metal and steel small washers to do this, and I've noticed no difference between the two. Early on, I used plastic so as not to add any metal near the magnet, but of course the screws are metal, so...

I'd doubt there's much of any ferrous metal in the screws or washers. Anyways I think I still have a spare tweet lurking around here somewhere that came from an S38.

AudioLover773
11-07-2021, 02:36 PM
Here's something that adds even more confusion. I found an S-Center for sale (the one with the copper-colored cones, not the Series II model), and the seller was kind enough to take a picture of the back of the tweeter, and the model number is 338059-001, and when I searched that up, it came up as a tweeter for their Series II speakers. I've read that people say the Series II tweeter is incompatible or inferior?

89869


I think I've damaged one of my PT800's tweeters. It measures 6 dB lower in output vs my other 3 PT800s, so I opened it up to swap it with another to make sure the tweeter is the culprit, and when I did that, I discovered that all my tweeters have the part number 050625 on their backs. Has anyone found out what was going on with the two different part numbers? Is one better than the other? I was about to buy one of the S speakers to harvest the tweeter, but now I'm thinking I'll need a pair or two so that they'll all match, and I'm wondering how they'll sound different.

Anyone have any success buying the tweeters by themselves? What's their list price? I read that someone was able to buy them from a Canadian distributor. How does one go about doing it that way?

The S-Center uses the 335663-001 tweeter right? I looked it up, and this service manual gives a part number 40DT25BC-DT01. Does this mean that I can buy that tweeter and use it in the PT800? Has anyone taken a tweeter out of an S-Center and confirmed that it is the right tweeter?

https://servicemanuals.us/jbl/audio/s-center-studio-series.html

rdgrimes
11-07-2021, 04:09 PM
The ones I have, one from a PT800, and one from a S38, both say 335663-001, which is all I can tell you. In that picture, only the mounting strap is visible, the actual driver is underneath. You take that out and pop it into the plastic bracket from the PT800. Though I will also point out that the bracket from the S38 looks just like the one from the PT800, neither one looks like the above photo.

JBLAddict
11-16-2021, 11:52 AM
I also have a dead tweeter, is there a place to buy them (Canada?) or is it harvest season only?

EZ-Rhino
02-02-2022, 08:13 AM
Does anyone have experience with the ebay plate amp repair service. They claim to have refurbished many PS1400 plate amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252743608962?hash=item3ad8b16a82:g:jggAAOSwA3dYlOC P

rdgrimes
02-02-2022, 08:49 AM
Does anyone have experience with the ebay plate amp repair service. They claim to have refurbished many PS1400 plate amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252743608962?hash=item3ad8b16a82:g:jggAAOSwA3dYlOC P

I would caution against this for a couple reasons. 1st, shipping an amp has its own set of risks. 2nd, its my feeling that a competent repair person would ask for the entire sub, not just the plate amp. The reason for that is for testing purposes. If they have an actual sub in house for amp testing, that's fine.
My advice is to locate a local shop that does electronics repairs. I've had some array subs repaired that way with good success. Still, they do have good feedback so if you're willing to risk the $190 plus shipping, let us know how it goes.

EZ-Rhino
02-02-2022, 03:24 PM
I would caution against this for a couple reasons. 1st, shipping an amp has its own set of risks. 2nd, its my feeling that a competent repair person would ask for the entire sub, not just the plate amp. The reason for that is for testing purposes. If they have an actual sub in house for amp testing, that's fine.
My advice is to locate a local shop that does electronics repairs. I've had some array subs repaired that way with good success. Still, they do have good feedback so if you're willing to risk the $190 plus shipping, let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the advice. My PS1400's and HTPS400's are working great. I'm looking for options when the inevitable happens.

JBLAddict
02-02-2022, 10:57 PM
Does anyone have experience with the ebay plate amp repair service. They claim to have refurbished many PS1400 plate amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252743608962?hash=item3ad8b16a82:g:jggAAOSwA3dYlOC P


i do. Totally got scammed. Guy was in the Phx area, out of his house when I looked up the shipping address. But I was desperate. He held onto it for months with no feedback. I had to press constantly and he finally started giving BS about expensive components he’d need to fix it, then finally said he couldn’t fix it, total mess. Didn’t end well. I’ll never do that again through ebay. Problem is I couldn’t and still cannot find a shop locally to work on it. Ended up getting new amps from a forum member on both ps1400s

EZ-Rhino
02-03-2022, 01:58 PM
i do. Totally got scammed. Guy was in the Phx area, out of his house when I looked up the shipping address. But I was desperate. He held onto it for months with no feedback. I had to press constantly and he finally started giving BS about expensive components he’d need to fix it, then finally said he couldn’t fix it, total mess. Didn’t end well. I’ll never do that again through ebay. Problem is I couldn’t and still cannot find a shop locally to work on it. Ended up getting new amps from a forum member on both ps1400s
Thanks for the heads up.

Riley Casey
02-03-2022, 04:15 PM
I would view such an Ebay based " repair service" as sketchy for many reasons but repairing a plate amp without the associated speaker enclosure isn't one of them. When was the last time anyone took their stereo speakers in when having an amplifier or receiver repaired? With VERY rare exceptions electronics such as plate amps are repaired without regard to a particular speaker acting as a load. If the amp works properly into a load resistor after replacing output devices and related components it's unlikely to not work into a speaker load.


I would caution against this for a couple reasons. 1st, shipping an amp has its own set of risks. 2nd, its my feeling that a competent repair person would ask for the entire sub, not just the plate amp. The reason for that is for testing purposes. If they have an actual sub in house for amp testing, that's fine.
My advice is to locate a local shop that does electronics repairs. I've had some array subs repaired that way with good success. Still, they do have good feedback so if you're willing to risk the $190 plus shipping, let us know how it goes.

old-fashioned
06-08-2022, 12:37 PM
Hi,

one of my Synthesis Four / Performance Series 904Ti-001 4" midrange drivers is defect.
Does someone like to sell a working unit and would ship it to Germany?

Cheers,

Andreas