New cabinet for L200

[highcut28]

Dear A

[highcut28]

Dear All
I have a pair of L200 (A)
The drivers are fine but the cabs needed a bit of work
I had taken advice to increase the volume of the cabs to improve the LF performance but in that process have concluded that i should really make new cabs.
(the humidity over the 40 years has softened the panels)

In spite of negative comments i have read about the LE15B I intend to use all the original drivers.
Would appreciate ideas re cabinet dimensions, port(s) , Xover
(Have the LX16 but would like to add a super tweeter to make it a 3 way, so am happy to ditch these)

It would be nice to maintain a sloping front baffle ala the original cabinets.
All advice appreciated.

SM

[hatrack71]

Lots of members here have custom 3 way crossovers. You could always start with just adding an N8000 to your LX-16 for 077 slots or an N-7000 for 075 bullets. Either N333 or 3133 networks would suit what you are after as well. Those were stock in the L-300 and 4333A respectively. I would be worried about a woofer impedance mismatch with the latter option though as well as the cost to acquire. You would need to additionally acquire 136As, 2235Hs or 2231As to really be matched. So your best $$ option in my opinion is either N-7000/075 or N-8000/077.

Oh..... and welcome!

[hjames]

A lot of recreating cabinets depends on how skilled a woodsmith you are ...
or if you have a good cabinetmaker on hire.

I am not much skilled with wood - so I found a used pair of empty L200 cabinets locally, then later found a better pair.

I started with a 4320 and moved the parts into a pair of L200 cabs, later adding a 2405 slot tweeter, and building what amounts to a 3 way crossover like the 4333 speakrs came with. I later swapped the L15s for 2235s, then swapped them with a pair of 2234s that came in a pair of 4 way Monitors I got. Later on I tried external Smith horns instead of the LE85s, then had custom walnut horns built ...
Anyway, the point is there is a lot you can do with that hardware ...
given time to tinker and a growing budget.

Keep your mind and your options open, and trust your ears.

More specifics -
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?15317-Looky-What-I-just-got-Those-Darned-L200-Cabs-(from-Aberdeen)/page15



Dear All
I have a pair of L200 (A)
The drivers are fine but the cabs needed a bit of work
I had taken advice to increase the volume of the cabs to improve the LF performance but in that process have concluded that i should really make new cabs.
(the humidity over the 40 years has softened the panels)

In spite of negative comments i have read about the LE15B I intend to use all the original drivers.
Would appreciate ideas re cabinet dimensions, port(s) , Xover
(Have the LX16 but would like to add a super tweeter to make it a 3 way, so am happy to ditch these)

It would be nice to maintain a sloping front baffle ala the original cabinets.
All advice appreciated.

SM

[highcut28]

Dear hjames and hatrack71
Many thanks to u both for yr thoughts.

JBLs are pretty rare in my neck of the woods and swapping and changing drivers wont be possible really.
The drivers when they are available are v expensf.
I am v happy to stick with what i have.

But the idea of making them a 3 way is very attractive. i have read that the horns in the L200 dont go too high and the L200 were much improved by the subsequent models ?L200B and L300.
(I think the L200 is prob the least loved of the old JBLs, but what the heck - dad bought them in '73 - time to keep them going after some improvement).

I am not familiar with the JBL driver nomenclature .
I take it, hatrack, that the 077 and 075 are supertweeters?
What are the N7000 and N8000 ? - are they electronics added to the LX16 X Over that would allow it to drive 3 transducers?

[hatrack71]

Dear hjames and hatrack71
Many thanks to u both for yr thoughts.

JBLs are pretty rare in my neck of the woods and swapping and changing drivers wont be possible really.
The drivers when they are available are v expensf.
I am v happy to stick with what i have.

But the idea of making them a 3 way is very attractive. i have read that the horns in the L200 dont go too high and the L200 were much improved by the subsequent models ?L200B and L300.
(I think the L200 is prob the least loved of the old JBLs, but what the heck - dad bought them in '73 - time to keep them going after some improvement).

I am not familiar with the JBL driver nomenclature .
I take it, hatrack, that the 077 and 075 are supertweeters?
What are the N7000 and N8000 ? - are they electronics added to the LX16 X Over that would allow it to drive 3 transducers?

Yes! The N-7000/N-8000 are JBL tweeter networks made to be used in conjunction with other JBL networks like the LX-16. Just run the HF out of the LX-16 to the input of the N-7000/8000. LF out on Lx-16 still goes to the LE-15b. From the N-7000/8000 network run the LF to the JBL L-200 horn/driver (pass through), and then the HF to either the 075 or 077 tweeter. Done. Nice thing is they have the same cutout for mounting and are the same size as your LX-16 so it looks stock. Now you just need to find either N-8000/077(2405) or N-7000/075(2402). Not going to be cheap but still the least expensive option in the route you want to take.

Let's see some pics of the cabs. I restored a pair that were all broken up. Hardest parts to find/make are the trim pieces on front. Maybe we can help you fix the cabs? Original is still best to maintain value.

[highcut28]

I checked out the N8000 and the 075 and 077 tweeters on eBay.
Holy :eek: the prices that are being asked - USD 500 for the tweeters, another 500 for the X Over!

My original aim was to re do the cabs - i decided to extend the volume of the cab (ala Toddalin's) to improve bass and we were gonna do cosmetics on the husky frail corners of the cabs - but i feel its not woth the effort cause the material is going soft!
I was looking for cab designs on this thread - i've been recommended 5.5 to 6 cu feet volume.

I think this is the best way forward, with addition of a tweeter (prob non JBL) and a custom 3 way X over.
So advice re cab design, alternative tweeters and custom X over needed for the original LE 15B woofer and the H-91 horn with LE-85 comp driver.

[hjames]

I checked out the N8000 and the 075 and 077 tweeters on eBay.
Holy :eek: the prices that are being asked - USD 500 for the tweeters, another 500 for the X Over!

My original aim was to re do the cabs - i decided to extend the volume of the cab (ala Toddalin's) to improve bass and we were gonna do cosmetics on the husky frail corners of the cabs - but i feel its not woth the effort cause the material is going soft!
I was looking for cab designs on this thread - i've been recommended 5.5 to 6 cu feet volume.

I think this is the best way forward, with addition of a tweeter (prob non JBL) and a custom 3 way X over.
So advice re cab design, alternative tweeters and custom X over needed for the original LE 15B woofer and the H-91 horn with LE-85 comp driver.

Instead of buying old used crossovers with capacitors that are very old and may have dried out and not be at their original spec anyway, you should build a pair of crossovers (with new parts) made for JBL 3-way systems. Yesterday I gave you the link for my speakers build, and midway through that is a link for the schematic one of the forum gurus shared on building the 3133 equivalent crossover, which should serve you just fine.

Here is a glimpse of what my L200s look like these days.

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=42587&stc=1&d=1256562921

[Mr. Widget]

I think this is the best way forward, with addition of a tweeter (prob non JBL) and a custom 3 way X over.
So advice re cab design, alternative tweeters and custom X over needed for the original LE 15B woofer and the H-91 horn with LE-85 comp driver.Personally I would use a pair of 2405H tweeters... they are sonically and electrically identical to the original 077s in the L300 and frequently a fraction of the cost. If you use the top portion of the 3133 as suggested by Ms James, you should do very well.

I would keep an eye out for a pair of 2235Hs as well as you could then use the entire 3133 network and have a very nicely balanced system that is tried and true.


Widget

[highcut28]

Personally I would use a pair of 2405H tweeters... they are sonically and electrically identical to the original 077s in the L300 and frequently a fraction of the cost. If you use the top portion of the 3133 as suggested by Ms James, you should do very well.

Personally I would keep an eye out for a pair of 2235Hs as well as you could then use the entire 3133 network and have a very nicely balanced system that is tried and true.


Widget

Great advice Mr Widget.Thanks, I like a cheaper option :)

Excuse ignorance
What is the 3313?
The 2235H is a better 15 " woofer right?

[hjames]

Here is the schematic for the 3133 equivalent network - "3133" is the number for the crossover network that would go in a 4333 3 way monitor, which is the Pro series equivalent of the L300 system. This one was updated by member 4313B so it doesn't need tapped inductors.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=42684&stc=1&d=1257099850

[highcut28]

Thanks ever so much ya'all.
There's much to do .....

[hjames]

Thanks ever so much ya'all.
There's much to do .....

But you don't have to do it all at once!
You already have a great start!
Make plans to take it forward in stages!

I started with some cabinet that had water damage but were (mostly) tight.
I added the supertweeter and built the crossover and got the sound where I liked it.
Later on I found better cabinets and moved all my pieces over.
Then did the wooden horn on top even later, with the original driver from the LE85 metal horn (2420 driver).
Then even later I swapped a larger format horn driver for that original driver ...
Now I am trying out different tube amps instead of the vintage receivers I used to use ...

Except for the occasional weekend project, all the while I could listen to my speakers and enjoy the music ...

[highcut28]

Cheers James et al
I have sourced the tweeters. Would it be correct that i should get the 8 ohm 2405H tweeters ( i note there is a 16 ohm version).?
I will get the 3313 made up.

Cabs remain an issue.
Should i make clones of the L300 cabs? or is there an 'improvement'?
Where would i find the dimensions in this massive Lansing resource?

I have been recommended 5.5 to 6 cu feet of internal volume.

Warm regards

[highcut28]

holy cow, here it is :)

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?20230-Need-L300-dimensions&highlight=L300+dimensions

[Mr. Widget]

I have sourced the tweeters. Would it be correct that i should get the 8 ohm 2405H tweeters ( i note there is a 16 ohm version).?
All 077s and 2405s use the same diaphragm and have the same impedance regardless of what is printed on the foilcal. Here is a comparison I made years ago. (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?6368-Ring-Radiator-Comparisons&p=62922&viewfull=1#post62922)


Widget

[highcut28]

thank u Mr Widget
Still no comments abt the volume of the L300 cabinet and the recommendation to me that i should aspire to a volume of 5.5 to 6 cu feet?
Thanking u in anticipation

[hjames]

thank u Mr Widget
Still no comments abt the volume of the L300 cabinet and the recommendation to me that i should aspire to a volume of 5.5 to 6 cu feet?
Thanking u in anticipation

Kind of depends on what you want to have, doesn't it?

I mean, the L300 is a legendary speaker that commands high resale values even today -
seems like they got many things right with that combination.

Why redesign it if you are not sure what you'll have afterwards,
and you aren't sure that all the pieces will work that well together?

[highcut28]

Points well taken James
Will be working towards making the L300 cabs.

The 3133 schematic u gave me has my electronical friend a bit concerned.
We need to source all those parts (coils and caps) in the US. No way to get those funny mH spec coils here!
Can u put me in touch with a seller who will be familiar with what i need and who will ship the stuff to me?

[hjames]

Points well taken James
Will be working towards making the L300 cabs.

The 3133 schematic you gave me has my electronic friend a bit concerned.
We need to source all those parts (coils and caps) in the US. No way to get those funny mH spec coils here!
Can you put me in touch with a seller who will be familiar with what i need and who will ship the stuff to me?

I believe I got most of it from Parts Express when I built my pair a few years ago -
http://www.parts-express.com

Wrote it all on a list, looked it up, put in the order online ...

I gave you the just the schematic a couple posts back, but I would recommend you read
the full design thread where that schemo came from

4333/S300/L300 equivalent bandbass circuit
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?166-4333-S300-L300-equivalent-bandbass-circuit/page4

[highcut28]

Thanks hJames
Do u anticipate i may run into major issues in using the LE15B instead of 2234 or 2235 with the 3133 X over?
impedance issues?
btw those wooden horns/lenses on yr LE85 s are cool

[hjames]

Thanks hJames
Do u anticipate i may run into major issues in using the LE15B instead of 2234 or 2235 with the 3133 X over?
impedance issues?
btw those wooden horns/lenses on yr LE85 s are cool

The question is do you think at some point you would get a pair of 2234s of 2235s for your woofers? If its likely that at some point you will, build for that now, and in a year or so when the budget is there, upgrde. Like I said, don't plan to do everything now.

Build your crossover, get your super tweeters and used what you have now...

[toddalin]

Here's an idea. Let's keep it simple, yet tunable.

Design your cabinet for 6 cubic feet of interior and don't worry about accounting for the bracing and speakers. You'll loose some interior volume, but there will be plenty left.

Use 4" diameter PVC tube for your port(s) and get a 4" PVC coupler(s). Cut a hole(s) in the cabinet baffleboard that will provide a snug fit around the PVC. Cut a piece of PVC just long enough so that when you shove it all the way into the coupler it sticks out 3/4" and glue them together. Use fine sandpaper to go around the inside of the other side of the coupler to "loosen" the fit when you put PVC tube into it. Now glue the coupler to the baffleboard putting the short piece though the hole.

Cut a piece of PVC to whatever length port you would like to start your testing with. Smear Vasoline (or such) around the inside of the coupler and put this piece of PVC into the coupler. Now you can change the tuning by just removing the PVC, cutting it to a new length, and reinserting it. Obviously, your minimum port length will be the length of the coupler, but that is shorter than you are likely to go.

[highcut28]

Here's an idea. Let's keep it simple, yet tunable.

Design your cabinet for 6 cubic feet of interior and don't worry about accounting for the bracing and speakers. You'll loose some interior volume, but there will be plenty left.

Use 4" diameter PVC tube for your port(s) and get a 4" PVC coupler(s). Cut a hole(s) in the cabinet baffleboard that will provide a snug fit around the PVC. Cut a piece of PVC just long enough so that when you shove it all the way into the coupler it sticks out 3/4" and glue them together. Use fine sandpaper to go around the inside of the other side of the coupler to "loosen" the fit when you put PVC tube into it. Now glue the coupler to the baffleboard putting the short piece though the hole.

Cut a piece of PVC to whatever length port you would like to start your testing with. Smear Vasoline (or such) around the inside of the coupler and put this piece of PVC into the coupler. Now you can change the tuning by just removing the PVC, cutting it to a new length, and reinserting it. Obviously, your minimum port length will be the length of the coupler, but that is shorter than you are likely to go.

Good advice and well described :)
Thanks again Toddalin
much to do...

[highcut28]

Ok here are pics of the base reinforced and holed out, and the back reinforced too.
The plan is to increase volume by about 1 cu ft.
Reinforcement necessary cause the board is kinda flakey under the old veneer especially at corners.

Parts for modding LX16 to A version(change a cap and a coil) and for custom N8000 on the way.
2045s (ceramic, cheaper) on way too.

[highcut28]

Have disassembled the LX16A s and will build custom LX16A + N8000 X overs.
Would like to keep the back plate of the original cans
but they look pretty shabby.
Aluminium oxide has lifted off the paint
How do i tidy these up?

Thanks

[hjames]

Have disassembled the LX16A s and will build custom LX16A + N8000 X overs.
Would like to keep the back plate of the original cans
but they look pretty shabby.
Aluminum oxide has lifted off the paint
How do i tidy these up?

Thanks

Why bother? Rebuild the circuit onto a plank or whatever you like because it'll work inside the system anyway.

All you need is a dual connector plate on the back of the cabinet, right?

The LF output and HF output are meant to go to the two drivers in the cabinet anyway

[highcut28]

Why bother? Rebuild the circuit onto a plank or whatever you like because it'll work inside the system anyway.

All you need is a dual connector plate on the back of the cabinet, right?

The LF output and HF output are meant to go to the two drivers in the cabinet anyway

Yes, of course the new X over goes on a plank (new coils are v big - no way can be canned)
thought would be nice to use the face plate of the can for the binding posts and perhaps the 8 ohm L pad pot (we ll see when they arrive).
u know 'originality' and all that..

[hjames]

Yes, of course the new X over goes on a plank (new coils are v big - no way can be canned)
thought would be nice to use the face plate of the can for the binding posts and perhaps the 8 ohm L pad pot (we ll see when they arrive).
u know 'originality' and all that..
This is what I crafted for the back of my L200 cabinets -
I had originally biAmped them, in my downstairs system, so I had figured LF feed on the bottom to the 2234s I have,
then a HF feed to the internal crossover with that feeding the 2425 & 2405 drivers upper pair ...
but I've completely changed things around since then ...

Currently, lower pair is full range input, and the upper pair is for mid-range out of the cabinet
for the external walnut horn and 2445 drivers on top (see Avatar)

The only thing I regret is that someday I will need to redo them,
as I didn't use or have any dual banana connectors when I made it,
so the spacing isn't right for them. I'd probably stain the wood as well.

55413

[highcut28]

nice.
Practicality will rule the day and mine will prob look like that ;)

[highcut28]

Some progress made


55668

Back plate of LX 16A X over can.
I enlarged the holes for binding posts and pushed out the plug in the centre hole.
Sent them for sandblast and a powdercoat ..

55669
55673

Put in new binding posts and 8 ohm L pad pot (both from Parts Express)

[highcut28]

Made up these X overs
Retained the original 2.4 mH Inductors and 5 ohm resistors
All the rest new - all new inductors from Mundorf
Caps from Mundorf mainly
First X over built with pal BSL Lee, next one built with my 14 y o daughter

556705567155672

[highcut28]

Powered up.
Am at the stage of waiting for my cabs, so i made this vid for my cabinet maker to pull out the finger and get on with the job!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVoiWqsqr4M


Actually there s a problem.
One of my 'new' 2405 s is not supertweeting, so will have to sort that out.
Everything else is good,

[highcut28]

Its been a while,.... almost there

[highcut28]

Gosh its been a while.
In summary the old L200 was converted to a 3 way by adding the 2405s and modifying the XOs (L16 +N8000)
Resulting speakers have been used sparingly.
They dont sound great i think because the LE15B s are such awful woofers.
I am considering taking them towards the L300.
The 2355H woofers are hard to come buy especially where I am .
is there an alternative ? 2226H perhaps ? or can anyone suggest another brand of woofer.
i was thinking of making up the Nelson Pass version of the L300 XO, or actively driving them.

[Mr. Widget]

I’ve been there numerous times over the decade. What seems like a good idea on paper doesn’t always work out that way in practice... I’m sure the back room at JBL and every other major manufacturer have examples of designs that didn’t quite pan out.

I would suggest switching to the 2235H woofers and a new ground up crossover. Do you have enough cabinet depth for the 2312/H92 horns?

Beautiful work by the way!


Widget

[highcut28]

Hi Mr Widget
Thank you. This is what they look like .
Deserve to sound better though.
2235 s are extremely rare out here and would be v expensive too.
I think trying to get hold of a pair of 2225 s and re coning em to 2235 s would work out expensive with all the shipping from the US, and besides i ve never reconed before .
Apologies as this is a JBL Heritage forum but could i boldly ask for an alternative brand of woofer..

Re the speakers, the XO is inside.
I think its the H91 horns in the L200.

Shahrin

[highcut28]

i have secured a pair of 2235H s on ePay.
No other way i guess
They are in California, picked up by a friend - not sure whan i will see em .

[Mr. Widget]

Congratulations, I hope they make it safely and soon.



Widget

[sonofagun]

A nice sculptured custom grille on that cabinet front would be a great finishing touch! :bouncy:

[highcut28]

My LE 85 s have the H91 horns
I believe that on the L300 /4333 the H92 horn is used .
I assume they differ in dimensions .
In practical terms, can someone enlighten me on the difference.
Thanks

[Mr. Widget]

My LE 85 s have the H91 horns
I believe that on the L300 /4333 the H92 horn is used .
I assume they differ in dimensions .
In practical terms, can someone enlighten me on the difference.
ThanksThe H91 horn also called the 2307 when using the JBL Pro version, is considered a 1200 Hz horn and the H92 or 2312 is several inches longer and is considered an 800 Hz horn.

Back in ‘60s when the H91 was first introduced, JBL crossed them over as low as 500 Hz, but this is no longer recommended.


Widget

[toddalin]

My LE 85 s have the H91 horns

In practical terms, can someone enlighten me on the difference.
Thanks

3"

[highcut28]

Thank you Mr Widget and Toddalin.
in summary i will be using 2405, LE85 with H91 and 2235H drivers and will probably build the Nelson Pass's version ofthe XO8512285122
Cabs were made following 4333 dimensions.
Fingers crossed, should work ?

[highcut28]

I am going to go the full whack to convert this to L300/4333.
I will need longer horns for the LE 85.
The H 92 horns are not easy to get and are quite expensive.
I am considering getting Smith horns / JBL 2397 cloned.
Would really appreciate help with regard to the dimensions of the correct horn to get the frequency response down to 850 Hz.
I have seen descriptions of some nice horns but the appropriate length of throat does not seem to have been addressed.
I see some wooden horns applied directly or very close to the drivers, but perhaps they are trying to achieve H 91 type of length.
Appreciate help here. Thank you.

[highcut28]

would 2345 horns work ?

[Earl K]

would 2345 horns work ?


Would a 2345 fit ( width-wise ) into your existing baffle ?

To answer your question directly, yes , I would ( if it was me ) look at adding an actual radial type horn into your setup.

2345 Radials 's typically don't command big bucks , therefore having/buying a pair allows one to experiment with their usage + "reverse-engineering".

87064
https://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=1571&private=0 (https://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&goto=80770&)

https://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=1571&private=0
The above picture shows a Yuichi 480FL BiRadial built with MDF ( and then painted ) .

Yuichi 480 Horn (https://www.araihorn.com/p/arai-480.html)

Better ( sounding ) than a metal 2345 is almost any wooden version made from some appropriate hardwoods ( for example; maple > from here in N. America or Chinese Quince Lumber or Cheery Hardwood in Asia ).

You can buy 2345's and then use them as patterns to make a wood version.

Here's one project inspired by the 2345.

Luxmanlover's comments about moving on from the H290 ( Eminence biradial ) to a JBL 2345 ( metal radial ) to his own wooden version of the 2345 I find pretty interesting.



http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3745&stc=1&d=1098558437 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?3560-3-Way-Project)


Hey Earl
The horn in the 4 Pi's that I built was the Eminence H290, a cool looking horn and compact but certainly not to my tastes. It might be better in wood but that's a lot of work to find out. The horn I ended up building wasn't anything special. Just a plain old 2345 JBL cast aluminum ( a real POS casting job if you ask me....lol ) that I had literally holding the garage door open on windy days. I had always wanted to build a wooden horn to try but never got around to it. I had some plans off the net but my not reading Japanese was holding me back. Anyway, after taking a closer look at the 2345 I realized that it would be pretty simple to replicate. The side are straight walled so that greatly simplified fabbing it up in wood (being lazy I didn't want to spend a ton of time on some that might end up sounding like dog stuff, and the alumium version certainly did sound like !@#$ ) I took a plaster cast of the profile and found that it too was constant across the curve. So without getting into a ton of detail (unless someone is interested) of how to build one I "whipped" pair together. As far as drivers I'm pretty happy with the 2470/2421 combo. The TAD look cool but I'm not sure I need all that top end extention. The next step would be to try a super tweet first ( eh Bo) . But all in all I'm just plain out amazed at how this wood horn has smoothed out the sound. CD's that were previously "unlistenable" ie R. L. Burnside "Come On In" certain comes to mind. Great CD, TERRIBLE recording job. I think they used one mike in a bathroom or something...lol .
Kelly


http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=42310&stc=1&d=1255255219 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?26606-New-radial-horn-finished)


> Click the pics to go to the relevant threads for more info!

:)

PS: Bonus pic;;

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=42311&stc=1&d=1255255225

Nice LF loading from this radial > even from this Altec 908 driver.

[macaroonie]

Great digging Earl , you da Man.. The first one is a nice tidy effort IMO

[Earl K]

Great digging Earl , you da Man.. The first one is a nice tidy effort IMO

Thanks Mac!

:)

[highcut28]

You are indeed da man Earl.
They are lovely,
I will need to find someone to make these.

I would place them on top of my cabs .
see pics below.
The woofers are mounted high on the cabs

[highcut28]

I d like to get in touch with Kelly(luxmanlover) re plans to build the wooden 2345
i note from threads that he posted as a guest.
Does anyone know how i might get in touch with him?
Ta
Shahrin

[Earl K]

Hi,

Kelly's account has been inactive for a long time & therefore it was deemed to be surplus > and so it was "retired" into a Guest status .

Ask a moderator or Administrator if his old email details remain active somewhere on this site.

If so, they might be able to message him for you.

( Though ), I doubt Kelly has anything resembling the type of detailed build plan you seem to be after .

Your best bet ( IMHO ) is to buy a pair / clone them in wood and then sell them on for whatever money you can get for them.

:)

PS; You might be able to get something useful from the following ( if you're creative + good at interpretation );

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=36490&stc=1&d=1231710768 (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?8363-New-project-preparation)

[macaroonie]

Here's a jig for outing the tractrix profile.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=t82TavOW&id=FC14EDE321C8C6F46B3269A9ED3C8413D42207D9&thid=OIP.t82TavOW5aBo_b5ztlzA1wHaFj&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.pinimg.com%2F736x%2Fdd%2F f0%2Fca%2Fddf0cab01fb824250a507a9675c18814--diy-hifi-diy-audio.jpg&exph=552&expw=736&q=making+a+wood+jbl+2345+horn&simid=608037497830048682&ck=12EE8E43C45F9066A452DFE77F4FD432&selectedindex=87&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&sim=11

[highcut28]

Gents I have secured a pair of H92s on ePay.
I think this is the safer bet for a domestic speaker.
Realistically I wouldnt have been able to get wood copies of the 2345.
Thanks all the same for all the advice.
So i have all the JBL hardware now except the the horns are in England the woofers are in LA and me in Kuala Lumpur.
I ll get them eventually, Covid not withstanding.
Plan is make a 850 Hz electronic XO(kit from ESP Aust) make up top end of N Pass 's XO for the mids n tweets.
Will report further.

[Mr. Widget]

Sounds like a good plan. Good luck with shipping... please do keep us posted.
I have a similar project in mind, but have no time line yet.


Widget