Woofer Travel with turntable

[Audiobeer]

I have a few pairs of 4313Bs so I familiar with them and have seen the travel of the woofer with the grill off. I have had a pair of Sony TA-N80ES amps hooked up to them. Always sounded good no issues. They are rated at 200 watts per channel. In place of the Sonys I swapped in a recently overhauled Marantz 1250. I'm not really familiar with it nor had past experiences with it. I do know it's rated at 125 watts. I have 2 questions I will pick your brains on. 1st the bass improvement is like night and day. I mean the bass slam is fast and hard compared to the Sony's. Did not expect that. The woofer travel distance was substantialy greater than the Sony's and based on my recollection it was greater than the Harman Kardon 16.......Why.
2nd question. I got out an old tried and true SONY 4300 turntable from my Navy Days to test the Phono board on the Marantz as it was also rebuilt. I don't use the turntable as often as I like to but the woofer travel is now not only still greater but I get a feeling that the woofers are even spazzing out a bit. It just didn't seem to be traveling like they should although it sounded ok. Switched over to CD and the woofer travels back in forth like it should.......like its pulsating. So I think that irregularity may be caused by the turntable needing a tuneup or something. It worried me enough not to want to play the turntable. The cartridge is original so it's about 30 + years old.
P.S. These questions are not a prelude to a future for sale post. This one I'm keeping. Hoping that some turntable guru's can help with the 2nd question.

[Eaulive]

I have a few pairs of 4313Bs so I familiar with them and have seen the travel of the woofer with the grill off. I have had a pair of Sony TA-N80ES amps hooked up to them. Always sounded good no issues. They are rated at 200 watts per channel. In place of the Sonys I swapped in a recently overhauled Marantz 1250. I'm not really familiar with it nor had past experiences with it. I do know it's rated at 125 watts. I have 2 questions I will pick your brains on. 1st the bass improvement is like night and day. I mean the bass slam is fast and hard compared to the Sony's. Did not expect that. The woofer travel distance was substantialy greater than the Sony's and based on my recollection it was greater than the Harman Kardon 16.......Why.
2nd question. I got out an old tried and true SONY 4300 turntable from my Navy Days to test the Phono board on the Marantz as it was also rebuilt. I don't use the turntable as often as I like to but the woofer travel is now not only still greater but I get a feeling that the woofers are even spazzing out a bit. It just didn't seem to be traveling like they should although it sounded ok. Switched over to CD and the woofer travels back in forth like it should.......like its pulsating. So I think that irregularity may be caused by the turntable needing a tuneup or something. It worried me enough not to want to play the turntable. The cartridge is original so it's about 30 + years old.
P.S. These questions are not a prelude to a future for sale post. This one I'm keeping. Hoping that some turntable guru's can help with the 2nd question.

I don't know those amps personally, but all the Sony gear I remember trying I always found lean on bass.

If the Marantz amplifier has more LF output or if the damping is different you will see more travel on your woofers, and if you hookup the turntable then all this infrasonic energy is gonna work them out even more, that's normal.
It's always better to have a good subsonic filter to avoid this kind of un-necessary woofer workout :)

[Don C]

Each combination of tonearm and cartridge has a characteristic resonant frequency. You can often watch the woofers motion and see what is happening. Ideally the resonant frequency of the table will be high enough not to be excited by record warp or anything else that happens once per revolution, but low enough that it's not excited by the lowest notes of the music. Watch the woofers, see if they seem to be moving in synch with the record rotation, (too low resonant frequency) or with the bass note of the music (too high resonant frequency) The solution may be a cartridge that matches the mass of the arm better, but you can often improve things a lot by just turning on the low cut filter, usually called a rumble filter. Sometimes the resonant frequency can be altered by adding or subtracting mass (not to be confused with vertical tracking force) to the arm. There is some great detailed information about this over at the vinyl engine site.

[Maron Horonzakz]

Seems like the classic "WARP WOW" motional problems..

[Lee in Montreal]

Hmmm... "Rumble" ;)
The usual subsonic filter will remove it.

[Audiobeer]

Sent a video of the occurence to a buddy and he's telling me it's a result of a boatload of rumble getting to the amplifier. He looked at the turntable model and basically said that I need a new one. This one has sentimental value. I'm going to try to make it work. I did turn on the filter and it cut the exited woofer motion in 1/2 but it's still there. I'll get it resolved! Thanks Everyone.

[Lee in Montreal]

You may want to try several models of stylii. Some have a more flexible tip than others, and will induce more rumble.

[hjames]

Sent a video of the occurence to a buddy and he's telling me it's a result of a boatload of rumble getting to the amplifier. He looked at the turntable model and basically said that I need a new one. This one has sentimental value. I'm going to try to make it work. I did turn on the filter and it cut the exited woofer motion in 1/2 but it's still there. I'll get it resolved! Thanks Everyone.
:blink:
Wouldn't replacing the bearings on the table have the best results on this refurb?

[Audiobeer]

I don't no Heather. I'm going to buy a good budget turntable and work on this one later. Time is the biggest commodity. Wish I had some. :(

[grumpy]

Some random thoughts:

Dust cover down? (air-borne coupling to record surface),
Turntable isolated from floor? (direct mechanical coupling),
massive base, tuned suspension, or physically isolated (e.g.,
wall shelf).
Then, maybe bearing (oil?) or motor issues (including motor decoupling bits)