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turtletrax
10-26-2011, 03:04 AM
My Father purchased them new before I was born (I am 34) and they were only moved once from our first home to the other and sat there ever since. He passed away and I always knew they were great speakers and had no intentions of letting anyone get their hands on them :D

They are in great shape except for the non-original cloth on the grills and the dust cap has a dent on one of them, but I plan to get them reconed and I will source out original cloth. I also plan to restore the crossover networks with new and better caps eventually. This of course will be down the road as I just had another addition to the family and that brings the total to three :p

Here are some pics ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L3009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/L30011.jpg

I have them connected to my Anthem MRX 500 that feeds 2x Monster Signature series 3350 3 channel amps at the moment because I really like the room correction that the Anthem brings, but will most likely pair them with the Pioneer Spec 2 preamp and power amp that I also inherited just to keep the vintage theme going.

I just wanted to also say that I am extremely pleased to find such a wealth of knowledge and a genuine love for JBL in this forum. I look forward to sharing the goal of restoring these speakers to their full glory, even if it takes a long time.

Regards,

Damon

Mr. Widget
10-26-2011, 10:29 AM
They are in great shape except for the non-original cloth on the grills and the dust cap has a dent on one of them, but I plan to get them reconed and I will source out original cloth. I also plan to restore the crossover networks with new and better caps eventually. This of course will be down the road as I just had another addition to the family and that brings the total to three :pWelcome to our world of insanity... :D

I would suggest refoaming and dome replacement so that you can keep them as original as possible. As you will discover digging through the miles of posts here, the 136A woofers in your L300s were "improved" a few years later and replaced by the 2235H. It is better in many respects, but it does sound a bit different. Unfortunately JBL does not offer the replacement kit for the 136A any longer and any authorized repair center will use 2235H kits. By replacing the foam surrounds and just the dome or domes, you will save money and preserve their original sound.

As for crossover updates. May or may not be necessary. If you use current audio grade caps of the same value you will likely do no harm.

In any case, I hope you enjoy your speakers for many years to come. With care, you may even be able to pass them on to the next generation. :)


Widget

Mannermusic
10-26-2011, 11:27 AM
Welcome to our world of insanity... :D

I would suggest refoaming and dome replacement so that you can keep them as original as possible. As you will discover digging through the miles of posts here, the 136A woofers in your L300s were "improved" a few years later and replaced by the 2235H. It is better in many respects, but it does sound a bit different. Unfortunately JBL does not offer the replacement kit for the 136A any longer and any authorized repair center will use 2235H kits. By replacing the foam surrounds and just the dome or domes, you will save money and preserve their original sound.

As for crossover updates. May or may not be necessary. If you use current audio grade caps of the same value you will likely do no harm.

In any case, I hope you enjoy your speakers for many years to come. With care, you may even be able to pass them on to the next generation. :)


Widget

Yes to all the above, and I wouldn't even remove the domes, just pull or suction the one out - does not look like anything serious. POP!

bill8888
10-26-2011, 11:28 AM
I'm glad you're going to keep the L300's. I posted the following in this forum back in 2008:

Should I Sell My L300's?

Iíve had my L300ís for 25 years now, and I always expected to hand them down to one of my kids (age 10 and 13) when I die. I donít really listen to them much, but I figured they were a nice heirloom that my kids could hand down to their kids. Then, a few weeks ago, I saw an auction on Ebay for a pair of L300ís. The seller inherited them from his father who recently died, and it seems he couldnít wait for the body to get cold before heís hawking them for cash. So then it occurred to me that my kids might do the same thing when I die, so I ask myself why Iím holding onto these speakers. I mean I could sell them for $3K and buy myself a nice Rolex or something. My wife think Iím nuts.

Lee in Montreal
10-26-2011, 12:31 PM
Dust cap is very easy to fix. Grab a vaccum cleaner and suck the bump out of the cap.

Congratulation for your new aquisition. :D

JeffW
10-26-2011, 12:43 PM
I mean I could sell them for $3K and buy myself a nice Rolex or something. My wife think Iím nuts.


And the kids would just hock the Rolex.

grumpy
10-26-2011, 01:34 PM
Grab a vaccum cleaner and suck the bump out of the cap.

... with the vacuum cleaner.

Make sure to leave a leak to allow you to modulate the amount of vacuum;
a hose adapter with a slide 'leak' is optimal. Otherwise the vacuum could
swallow your dust cap. Not at all a happy ending.

Lee in Montreal
10-26-2011, 01:46 PM
Of course. As usually, proceed with caution.
As was successfull performing such operation with a not too powerfull vacuum cleaner. ;)

turtletrax
10-26-2011, 03:46 PM
Welcome to our world of insanity... :D

I would suggest refoaming and dome replacement so that you can keep them as original as possible. As you will discover digging through the miles of posts here, the 136A woofers in your L300s were "improved" a few years later and replaced by the 2235H. It is better in many respects, but it does sound a bit different. Unfortunately JBL does not offer the replacement kit for the 136A any longer and any authorized repair center will use 2235H kits. By replacing the foam surrounds and just the dome or domes, you will save money and preserve their original sound.

As for crossover updates. May or may not be necessary. If you use current audio grade caps of the same value you will likely do no harm.

In any case, I hope you enjoy your speakers for many years to come. With care, you may even be able to pass them on to the next generation. :)


Widget

It seems that anyone I talk to with experience in vintage audio is telling me the same. Nothing is really damaged in an serious way, so I am thinking I will leave them alone. It is just hard to imagine that they need nothing after 35+ years :)


Yes to all the above, and I wouldn't even remove the domes, just pull or suction the one out - does not look like anything serious. POP!

I considered trying to suck them out but based on the fact they are not replaceable per se, I wanted to disturb them as little as possible


I'm glad you're going to keep the L300's. I posted the following in this forum back in 2008:

Should I Sell My L300's?

Iíve had my L300ís for 25 years now, and I always expected to hand them down to one of my kids (age 10 and 13) when I die. I donít really listen to them much, but I figured they were a nice heirloom that my kids could hand down to their kids. Then, a few weeks ago, I saw an auction on Ebay for a pair of L300ís. The seller inherited them from his father who recently died, and it seems he couldnít wait for the body to get cold before heís hawking them for cash. So then it occurred to me that my kids might do the same thing when I die, so I ask myself why Iím holding onto these speakers. I mean I could sell them for $3K and buy myself a nice Rolex or something. My wife think Iím nuts.


I actually ran across your post when I searched the L300 after getting them. :D


Dust cap is very easy to fix. Grab a vaccum cleaner and suck the bump out of the cap.

Congratulation for your new aquisition. :D

I had heard about doing it with the vacuum, but again was worried about damage


And the kids would just hock the Rolex.

So true :)


... with the vacuum cleaner.

Make sure to leave a leak to allow you to modulate the amount of vacuum;
a hose adapter with a slide 'leak' is optimal. Otherwise the vacuum could
swallow your dust cap. Not at all a happy ending.

Makes perfect sense. Actually feel like I will take a sensible stab at getting that dent out now.


Of course. As usually, proceed with caution.
As was successfull performing such operation with a not too powerfull vacuum cleaner. ;)

My have to borrow a weaker vacuum!

Thanks for all your help guys. I will treat these with all the respect they deserve and listen as often as I can. I will get some pics when I set up the old Pioneer spec stuff :)

rdgrimes
10-26-2011, 08:38 PM
I've never had any luck at all with a vacuum on dust caps. They just laugh at me and don't budge. I tried a 5HP shop vac on a LE14H-1 with a step-down adapter (read: major suck), and it did nothing. The older the woofer and the longer it's been dented seems to play a role.

Replacement caps are generally designed to fit right over the old cap's footprint. But I've never been that bothered by a dent in a woofer, that's that the grills are for. ;)

1audiohack
10-26-2011, 10:01 PM
Just last weekend one of my kids dented one of my 2227 caps, a little water applied to the edges of the dent with a wet towel corner to increase flexibility, then with the hose end in contact with the dust cap while modulating the vacuum force at the vacuum itself by holding the hose in close proximity to the source and walla, you'd never know it happened. This method has never failed me.

I'm glad you get to keep those 300's!!!

Mr. Widget
10-26-2011, 10:05 PM
I tried a 5HP shop vac on a LE14H-1 with a step-down adapter (read: major suck), and it did nothing.Really? 5HP... and I bet it plugged into a standard 120VAC outlet? Sorry, just a peeve of mine. A true 5 HP motor requires about 50 amps at 120 VAC or 25 amps at 240 VAC.

I used my 10 amp canister house vac, and it sucked the domes of some ADS woofers a bit more aggressively that I would have liked, but by the second woofer I had the modulation down and it worked pretty well. You could still see a hint of the damage but it looked significantly better.

In this case since these 136As are so old, I would take them to a highly regarded repair center and have them refoam the pair and replace the domes. New JBL domes are now black instead of gray, but perhaps someone could suggest a source for a suitable gray dome.


Widget

Eaulive
10-27-2011, 05:43 AM
Really? 5HP... and I bet it plugged into a standard 120VAC outlet? Sorry, just a peeve of mine. A true 5 HP motor requires about 50 amps at 120 VAC or 25 amps at 240 VAC.

I know... I have one that says 5HP "peak power" :dont-know:

Lee in Montreal
10-27-2011, 05:57 AM
I know... I have one that says 5HP "peak power" :dont-know:

That's probably when you hit the nitrous switch... :D

I bought a freshly JBL reconed 2226 for only $80 because the cap was kinked from unproper storage. 30 seconds with a vacuum cleaner and it turned into a perfect driver.

1audiohack
10-27-2011, 06:02 AM
I don't know, I guess it could be true. Has anyone really ever measured how hard a horse could suck? :p

Lee in Montreal
10-27-2011, 06:40 AM
That would be a rural legend and I wouldn't dare try it...

toddalin
10-27-2011, 10:21 AM
When "repairing" domes, I've always just lightly pushed a piece of tape into the affected area, then grab both ends and pull the tape tight to pop out the area.

Doc Mark
10-27-2011, 11:17 AM
Hey, Turtletrax,

Congrats on your "new" L300's! I lusted after a pair of those for decades before buying ours from a fellow forum member. It's been years, now, and we still love the way they sound, and also the way they look! The odd part is that, before we found and bought our L300's, I was purchasing the miscellaneous JBL drivers and parts to make my own system, which would have been much larger than the L330's. Now that we have them, and after realizing that they are still just as nice to our ears as when we first brought them home, all that JBL stuff is just setting downstairs, waiting for me to do something with it!! Funny how things turn out, eh? In any case, have fun with your Summits and thanks for posting your good fortune and the photos. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

turtletrax
11-15-2011, 01:25 PM
Hey, Turtletrax,

Congrats on your "new" L300's! I lusted after a pair of those for decades before buying ours from a fellow forum member. It's been years, now, and we still love the way they sound, and also the way they look! The odd part is that, before we found and bought our L300's, I was purchasing the miscellaneous JBL drivers and parts to make my own system, which would have been much larger than the L330's. Now that we have them, and after realizing that they are still just as nice to our ears as when we first brought them home, all that JBL stuff is just setting downstairs, waiting for me to do something with it!! Funny how things turn out, eh? In any case, have fun with your Summits and thanks for posting your good fortune and the photos. Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc


It sure is weird how it works out Doc :D Thanks for the kind words and I thank you all for your input. I will be keeping them as close to stock as possible, which brings me to my first question.

I have been using them quite a bit and my original assessment of the foam surrounds was quite incorrect. The one almost completely disintegrated and the other has seperated from the cone in many areas. So in my research for replacements and qualified repair services has left me confused. Are there OEM foam replacements available, or are the after market kits as good or better? And has anyone found reliable refoam services on the west(ern) part of Canada?



Just the fact that the 136a is so hard to find I really don't want to botch this up, so my greatest care will be taken.

Thanks for any advice guys ;)

JeffW
11-15-2011, 01:39 PM
JBL didn't sell foam surround kits, so aftermarket are the only game in town.

Rick Cobb has a great reputation, but you'd have to install them yourself.


rcobb@tampabay.rr.com (rcobb@tampabay.rr.com)

hjames
11-15-2011, 01:46 PM
Recommend you DON'T play them with the surround missing - you could damage them beyond repair. Get some surrounds from Rick Cobb, get some MEK to clean the old frames, and redo them over the weekend and you'll be good to go for many years!




I have been using them quite a bit and my original assessment of the foam surrounds was quite incorrect. The one almost completely disintegrated and the other has seperated from the cone in many areas. So in my research for replacements and qualified repair services has left me confused. Are there OEM foam replacements available, or are the after market kits as good or better? And has anyone found reliable refoam services on the west(ern) part of Canada?


Thanks for any advice guys ;)

turtletrax
11-15-2011, 02:05 PM
JBL didn't sell foam surround kits, so aftermarket are the only game in town.

Rick Cobb has a great reputation, but you'd have to install them yourself.


rcobb@tampabay.rr.com (rcobb@tampabay.rr.com)



Recommend you DON'T play them with the surround missing - you could damage them beyond repair. Get some surrounds from Rick Cobb, get some MEK to clean the old frames, and redo them over the weekend and you'll be good to go for many years!


Thank guys. I will contact him ASAP and begin research on installing them myself. Nice thing about doing it myself is I am the only one to blame if anything happens :p

I will be removing them from my system until I get them repaired so as not to damage them. Glad I noticed early!

JeffW
11-15-2011, 02:08 PM
I will...begin research on installing them myself.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?469-Resurround-Step-by-step

turtletrax
11-15-2011, 02:51 PM
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?469-Resurround-Step-by-step

Wow, exactly what I was looking for :-)

A great forum for sure :applaud:

Robh3606
11-15-2011, 06:13 PM
I just refoamed a 136H using one of Ricks refoam kits for the 2235 and it was right on the money

Rob:)

turtletrax
11-15-2011, 07:05 PM
I just refoamed a 136H using one of Ricks refoam kits for the 2235 and it was right on the money

Rob:)

I just got an email back from Rick and the price is great and he seems a great guy. Nice to know that his stuff works well too.

I have a few other questions regarding the subs. The first is how do I go about finding out if I need the magnets remagged? The other is what are the odds of me damaging the foam structures that go over the refoam kit in the removal process? Are they adhered to the foam surround?

Last question I am first going to try to remove the dent in the dust cap, but if I can't I think I would like to replace them the same time as the refoam. From what I could gather, the originals are no longer available, but the one from the CR82235 kit work,but are black. Is this correct? If true is there anyone that supplies the stock grey?

Thanks for all the help!

Titanium Dome
11-15-2011, 08:11 PM
http://www.bizrate.com/miscellaneous/oid1935012215.html

hjames
11-16-2011, 02:27 AM
http://www.bizrate.com/miscellaneous/oid1935012215.html

There's not enough melody in your post to know what you are trying to tell us!
If indeed it was posted by you ...
... have you been eaten by a spammer??

mech986
11-16-2011, 04:01 AM
There's not enough melody in your post to know what you are trying to tell us!
If indeed it was posted by you ...
... have you been eaten by a spammer??

He's answering how the OP can keep the stock grey look of the OE dustcaps and cone when the new ones are black.

Right at the top of the page is:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ne0W76O2L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

VHT SP104 FlameProof Coating Flat Grey Paint Can - 11 oz.
VHT Flame Proof Coating SP104 Flat Grey is the color coat for the three part multi high performance coating system. VHT Flame Proof Coating will ... more
buy at Amazon Marketpl... $9.95

Interesting option.

Bart

Titanium Dome
11-16-2011, 08:53 AM
Bingo!

"Doesn't affect the sound." ;)

mech986
11-16-2011, 11:50 AM
Keeps 'em working under the hottest of conditions too!

turtletrax
11-16-2011, 08:06 PM
http://www.bizrate.com/miscellaneous/oid1935012215.html

Thanks :)


I have removed the transducers and removed the surrounds. They literally just fell apart and could be rubbed off for the most part. Just have to grab some MEK and clean the basket edges off :)

Will post some pics soon!

hjames
11-17-2011, 02:24 AM
And glue the surrounds to the BACK of the cones ...


Thanks :)


I have removed the transducers and removed the surrounds. They literally just fell apart and could be rubbed off for the most part. Just have to grab some MEK and clean the basket edges off :)

Will post some pics soon!

turtletrax
11-17-2011, 08:18 AM
And glue the surrounds to the BACK of the cones ...

You bet :D

perchdog
11-17-2011, 07:26 PM
Rick Cobb also sells the dust caps for $4 per piece. I just recieved them today.

I tried refoaming a pair of 136A'S a few weeks ago with one of his kits. Instead of using tone cd supplied I tried shimming, one was no problem the other not so good fot it has a slight rub. I got another kit, this time I will try tone cd and see if it works better for me

turtletrax
11-17-2011, 08:53 PM
Rick Cobb also sells the dust caps for $4 per piece. I just recieved them today.

I tried refoaming a pair of 136A'S a few weeks ago with one of his kits. Instead of using tone cd supplied I tried shimming, one was no problem the other not so good fot it has a slight rub. I got another kit, this time I will try tone cd and see if it works better for me


Dang. I mentioned I had a dent in a dust cap and he never mentioned he sold them :( Oh well. I plan on grabbing another set of surrounds and a CR82235 recone kit just to hang onto down the road. I am going to see if I can get the dent out then go from there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/Dent.jpg

Here is a pic of the rear of the cone with as much of the surround off as I dare to try.




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/ConeUnderside.jpg

Should I try to get more off? If so how?

Here is a pic of the pair :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/Pair.jpg

And here is a snap of the serial number badge on one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/turtletrax/RearSub.jpg


Rick shipped my surround kit today so here is to hoping Canadian Customs doesnt hold it long :blink:

I think I will just stick with the test tone route. Seems easiest and looks like it works well

Lee in Montreal
11-17-2011, 09:05 PM
Hey Turtlewax. That dinged dome is easy to fix with a vacuum cleaner. Just suck it out back to its original shape.

turtletrax
11-17-2011, 09:12 PM
Hey Turtlewax. That dinged dome is easy to fix with a vacuum cleaner. Just suck it out back to its original shape.


Who's turtlewax :p

Ya, I am going to attempt to pop that dent out when the surrounds are successfully re-installed. Seems like a bad idea with how easy it is to rub the voice coil ATM.

gferrell
11-18-2011, 07:01 PM
Sweet!

brutal
11-19-2011, 10:05 AM
With foam that old and crumbly, rubbing it all off with your fingers is sufficient. The picture appears that you got most of it removed. The glue applied for the new surround should bond with any viable foam or glue that's remaining.

I found that when it's still a little gooey, I seem to get better results using a little MEK on a qtip to remove as much as possible.

Unless you were going to cut off the dome and use shims instead of Rick's tone cd, you're correct to leave it be until you get the surrounds replaced.

Mr. Widget
11-19-2011, 10:41 AM
Ya, I am going to attempt to pop that dent out when the surrounds are successfully re-installed. Seems like a bad idea with how easy it is to rub the voice coil ATM.Hey Turtlewax... ;)

Nice to see someone actually thinking it through... have fun, take your time and be rewarded!


Widget

turtletrax
11-19-2011, 12:59 PM
Sweet!

:D


With foam that old and crumbly, rubbing it all off with your fingers is sufficient. The picture appears that you got most of it removed. The glue applied for the new surround should bond with any viable foam or glue that's remaining.

I found that when it's still a little gooey, I seem to get better results using a little MEK on a qtip to remove as much as possible.

Unless you were going to cut off the dome and use shims instead of Rick's tone cd, you're correct to leave it be until you get the surrounds replaced.

Thanks for your input. I was not sure if the cone could take any MEK without damaging it. I will try with a qtip to get the last remnants off. I wont push the issue either as I am sure the new adhesive will bond fine, and again your input reassures me :)


Hey Turtlewax... ;)

Nice to see someone actually thinking it through... have fun, take your time and be rewarded!


Widget

I grew up with these speakers lingering in the background, although never used much, and I always knew they were special. I don't think my Dad realized that new speakers weren't better either. He bought a few sets here and there and the funny thing is these just crushed them for SQ. I feel a responsibility to restore them and share their abilities with a new generation. :bouncy:

I had a set of Paradigm Monitor 11's in my HT room for fronts, and I am flabbergasted at how much more the L300s bring to the sound stage and how much more full and warm they sound. Just need to find a center that compliments the sound and has a finish as beautiful.

Thanks for all your help folks. Really loving this forum :applaud:

perchdog
11-19-2011, 08:21 PM
Hi turtletrax.

I thought I blew my re-edge job on one of my 136A's. As it turns out the glue holding spider on the frames was dried and crumbly, approx 2/3 of the spider was basically flapping in the breeze. I pulled the other driver and sure enough the same thing was happening but not as advanced.

You may want to check that before installing your new surrounds. Both the spiders appeared completly flat, but when trying to get a knive under where they loosened, the problem was super apparent.

turtletrax
11-19-2011, 11:30 PM
Hi turtletrax.

I thought I blew my re-edge job on one of my 136A's. As it turns out the glue holding spider on the frames was dried and crumbly, approx 2/3 of the spider was basically flapping in the breeze. I pulled the other driver and sure enough the same thing was happening but not as advanced.

You may want to check that before installing your new surrounds. Both the spiders appeared completly flat, but when trying to get a knive under where they loosened, the problem was super apparent.


Thanks perchdog, I will check the spiders for sure now. More great advice! ;)


Lots to soak up here :-)

turtletrax
12-01-2011, 11:37 AM
Well, I am happy to say that I received my kit from Rick and it was perfect. Awesome packaging, quick shipping and exactly as stated. I had everything prepped but no matter where I looked I could not find MEK in my area. I scraped what I could of the remaining adhesive from the basket and cone and gave the basket edge a light sanding and went for it.

I have them running the test tone now and one was "ticking" so I found the area that was slapping and re-glued it. Other than that it was actually quite simple :)

I also checked the spiders as per Perchdog's recommendations and they are fully glued. So I think my last question is how does one know if the magnets are in need of remagging? I am pretty sure they were not abused enough to require it, but would be interested in knowing if there are any clues.


Thanks for all your help everyone!

Edit: I almost forgot to say that the dent in the dust cap popped out when it got the 30hz tone :) Might have to buy a lottery ticket today!

toddalin
12-01-2011, 11:59 AM
So I think my last question is how does one know if the magnets are in need of remagging? I am pretty sure they were not abused enough to require it, but would be interested in knowing if there are any clues.


Thanks for all your help everyone!

Edit: I almost forgot to say that the dent in the dust cap popped out when it got the 30hz tone :) Might have to buy a lottery ticket today!

If you purchase/run Woofer Tester from Parts Express, you can look to the BL number as a source of information. If the magnet needs recharge, the BL will probably be lower than spec.

Or, at ~$25 a pop, you can just have them recharged and not worry about it. Of course if you do the woofers, drivers, and tweeters for three channels, like I did, it adds up.