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View Full Version : L20T3 Woofer Repair in NYC



FBooth
09-20-2011, 05:17 PM
Just picked up a pair of these, my first foray into JBL.

Unfortunately one of the woofers seems to be non functioning, for the right speaker. I checked wiring and tested the connectors on my receiver, the left seems to be working fine. Not how I wanted to start with this brand but stuff happens.

I am not comfortable messing with them, are there any shops in NYC that specialize in repair or do good work?

Thanks for any help.

BMWCCA
09-20-2011, 07:19 PM
Measure the resistance across the woofer's terminals and report back. Or swap woofers between the cabinets and see if the problem follows.

These are very nice small speakers and worth fixing and keeping. If it's just the woofer, sourcing a replacement here or on Ebay shouldn't be too hard.

FBooth
09-21-2011, 06:41 PM
Measure the resistance across the woofer's terminals and report back. Or swap woofers between the cabinets and see if the problem follows.

These are very nice small speakers and worth fixing and keeping. If it's just the woofer, sourcing a replacement here or on Ebay shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks for the help, picked them up for around $77 plus the shipping, something might of been damaged on its way here. Really nice sound out of the left one, right tweeter is functional from what I can tell. Hooked up to a recapped and serviced Marantz 2325. Wires are fresh Belden 5000UE.

Before anything, here are some pictures I took, I am a speaker novice and can't tell if something is off, right looks pretty much identical to left (Appearance wise and inner parts) Tweeters looks fine (no pictures) and just some of the mesh screen on both pushed in a bit.

Question: The connector opposite the gold one doesn't seem to come out so easily, I don't want to break it. Is there a certain way to take it out?


Again thank you for any help you can provide.




Right:

http://i.imgur.com/peand.jpg (Woofer outer)

http://i.imgur.com/un57K.jpg (Terminals)

http://i.imgur.com/GV2LW.jpg (Terminals 2nd view)

http://i.imgur.com/Fl8gY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZDKFs.jpg (Back of Woofer, the other woofer is marked as Feb 1 1990, so I figured it is around the same time)

http://i.imgur.com/XNVEE.jpg (Network)



Left

http://i.imgur.com/zWSFK.jpg (Back of woofer)

http://i.imgur.com/DbNXV.jpg (Terminals)

http://i.imgur.com/PMCmq.jpg (Network)



http://i.imgur.com/TFZbg.jpg

BMWCCA
09-21-2011, 07:12 PM
You can measure the resistance with just one terminal off. They do bite tightly and you can carefully wiggle them off with a small pliers or needle-nose. Be VERY careful with the tweeter terminals, in fact it's probably better to leave them alone if you don't have a good reason to fiddle with them. There are very tiny wires attached to them that can pull loose if the terminals are miss-handled.

They look in pretty good shape. Hope you can get them working.

FBooth
09-21-2011, 07:22 PM
Don't think I have anything to measure the resistance. Hope I can get the right one sorted soon too.

Videos I took for sound, just a song off the radio.

Right (Problem one): http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/801/fes.mp4/

Left: http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/710/3kx.mp4 (http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/710/3kx.mp4/)

BMWCCA
09-21-2011, 09:09 PM
Don't think I have anything to measure the resistance.
Well, you're pretty much pissin' in the wind until you do. Go to Sears and plunk down maybe ten-bucks for an analog multimeter or maybe twenty for digital and then you'll know. Or Radio Shack if that's easier for you.

Robh3606
09-22-2011, 04:07 AM
If you don't have a meter just use a 1.5 volt AA battery to connect across the woofer terminals. It should click, and move. Don't try this on the tweeters this is a woofer only test. Don't keep it on there just briefly touch it too the terminals. It will tell you if the driver is dead without a meter.

Rob:)

FBooth
11-15-2011, 02:26 PM
Hi guys

I know it's been a while but got caught up for a bit. It turned out that the woofer was a dud (so to speak) and I just need to source a new one if I can. I figure that would be cheaper than repair on the existing one. I am still surprised from the amount of sound and how tight the bass is, on these little things with the working woofer. Hope to get a bigger set of JBL's in the near future, as my cheapo fishers are kinda going.

This also held me back a bit from purchasing a new turntable, so I'm glad that is sorted out and hope to have a new 115h-1 in place soon. Is there anywhere to source the part besides ebay?

Thanks to everyone for the help and patience.

berf
11-15-2011, 03:33 PM
Ebay should be a good source for 115h-1's ==>> IF <<=== the seller appears to be experienced with shipping raw drivers and has good feedback on their packing methods. These are relatively small and easy to pack but i can think of about 12 ways they can be destroyed in shipping. Maybe you'll get lucky and find one locally or regionally that will do a local pickup. Personally, I never ever trust the packer or the shipper and only do local pickups. Regional day trips are about the only days off I can muster.

FBooth
12-09-2011, 12:40 AM
I was able to source a replacement 115h-1 and things seem to be all good now.

Some playback from a test run of a recently acquired TT. No showing of the speakers though.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJrw7hw1Asc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVQybYTQZKM

brutal
12-10-2011, 12:16 AM
SL-1600MK2. Nice deck, I have a couple here. I can tell by the record size sensor post in the back.

is that shrink tubing on the arm? I've heard people using it to dampen the arm, but I've never really seen the need.

FBooth
12-11-2011, 07:46 PM
SL-1600MK2. Nice deck, I have a couple here. I can tell by the record size sensor post in the back.

is that shrink tubing on the arm? I've heard people using it to dampen the arm, but I've never really seen the need.

Thanks, yeah it is shrink tubing as it came to me. It is an older mod from scottrt (User from audio asylum and others) who is known for his modding of Technics SL1600 MK2's. The tonearm is rewired, the RCA's as well with Vampire connectors and has a strobe disable switch to eliminate any noise from that. The unit is also cleaned out, recapped and proper voltage set and whatnot.