Resoldering a 2226H

[GCT]

HI
Just got my 2226Hs back from a gig and the connection lead to the cone is broken, desoldered at the paper cone. Looks like a badly soldered joint from the factory. The brass insert through the paper cone and the fleixble cable tin OK but the foil that comes from the coil won't tin and because of the bad connection is now too short to pass trough the brass insert. If I could solder it, it would be as good as new. If I can't solder it, I could move the brass insert down closer to the coil, another 5mm, pass the foil through and resolder as the original.

Any ideas?

Cheers

GCT

[Allanvh5150]

Hi, If you can find a supplier of speaker tinsel wire, just put a new piece in. Here is one website.

http://www.speakerbits.com/products/speakers/braid-wire/list-168.aspx

Allan.

[GCT]

HI Allan
Tinsel wire's fine. It's the foil stuck on the outside of the cone that got burnt. Seems like an aluminium foil so it won't solder in the normal way. It's the bit under the black sealant that runs from a brass insert to the coil. It looks like originally they pass the flat foil through the insert, put the wire in the insert and then fill the insert with solder. It could be special solder though.

Cheers

[Mike Caldwell]

The voice coil on the 2226 is aluminum so you will not be able to solder it with a regular soldering iron and solder. Now I'm curious as to how JBL makes the connection at the brass ferrule in the cone. It could be that the voice coil at that point is copper clad so it can be soldered, crimped or a tricky aluminum spot weld. On a couple of the very early 2226 speakers I had the tinsel lead fail but there was enough left to re solder. At some point JBL started using a heavier gage lead.

I have a few old 2226 cones, I may dissect one and see whats going on under the black epoxy.

[Allanvh5150]

Ah, gotcha. It is aluminium so no chance to solder it. That wire is crimped into the eye in the cone. Drop Subwoof or Mike Caldwell a PM and ask them.

Allan.

[GCT]

The voice coil on the 2226 is aluminum so you will not be able to solder it with a regular soldering iron and solder. Now I'm curious as to how JBL makes the connection at the brass ferrule in the cone. It could be that the voice coil at that point is copper clad so it can be soldered, crimped or a tricky aluminum spot weld. On a couple of the very early 2226 speakers I had the tinsel lead fail but there was enough left to re solder. At some point JBL started using a heavier gage lead.

I have a few old 2226 cones, I may dissect one and see whats going on under the black epoxy.

HI,
I'm guessing they pass the foil through the "ferrule" and after passing the cable fill the hole with solder.
Graham

[GCT]

I did try with some solder for aluminium but do I need more heat?

What happens at the other end of the foil?

Is there another connection under the epoxy nearer the coil or is this foil just the end of the coil?

Cheers

Graham

[Allanvh5150]

That aluminium wire is actually the end of the voice coil.

Allan.

[GCT]

Anyone know of a conductive metal glue?

[edgewound]

It's soldered with aluminum solder, AluSol, which is not available in the US anymore that I can find. The wire going through the solder eyelet is the voice coil wire.

You'll have to resort to aluminum solder wire and apply flux to the joint. ESAB makes this available from Grainger. If you can find Tin Zinc anywhere that can work too if you get the temp right.

[Allanvh5150]

AluSol is available in the UK if you need it.

Allan.

[GCT]

I have some special solder for aluminium but can't get it to tin. I'll have another go with regular plumbing flux and a bigger iron. Thanks for the info. Will keep you informed.

Cheers
Graham

[Eaulive]

Alusol is the stuff JBL uses.

[GCT]

OK managed to solder it well.(I think) I have been saving this bit of aluminium solder for 20 years. I used a bit of plumbers non corrosive flux and all seemed to go well after I got the soldering iron tinned OK. I bent the wire over the top of the foil to get good surface area for the joint, gave it a coat of conductive paint as a bonus and painted it black. Will give it a good thrash when we get the other 2 2226s this week.

Many thanks for your help.

Cheers

Graham

[subwoof]

sometimes I have been able to tin the aluminum IF you use a low temp tip, keep a "bubble" of solder/rosin over it while rubbing the surface with the iron's tip. it's a real bitch and only sometimes sucessful. I had a short piece of the correct solder sent to me from JBL but unsure if I can get it anymore with all their STUPID outsourcing, remote service locations and their propensity to let anyone with old, useful knowledge go...

*sigh*