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View Full Version : Should I replace electrolytic caps in l80t3 crossover before installation?


riker1384
11-22-2010, 04:01 PM
I got a pair of L80T3 Xovers for my L80T's. From what I understand, they have a mixture of electrolytic and poly (or whatever) caps. Is this correct? I can't tell the difference. If there are electrolytics, would be be a good idea to preemptively replace them? If they're 20+ years old does that mean they will degrade sooner or later? If they're going to go bad, I imagine it would be easier to get them replaced now, before I install them. I don't solder but I'm already planning a trip to a service center. I have two pairs, so I'm going to try refoaming one pair of woofers and paying to have the other done.

Also, should I be able to install the xovers myself? It looks like the connectors don't require solder. I just use the wiring diagram from the L80T3, right?

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L80t3%20ts.pdf

The + and - terminals on the L80T drivers are the same as the T3?
gferrell
11-22-2010, 07:11 PM
I would listen first then decide. Some caps last forever some don't. I just picked up a pair of L60ts this weekend for $20 and they sound great and are just fine how they are. If it ain't broke don't mess with it.
1audiohack
11-22-2010, 10:01 PM
I would listen first then decide.---If it ain't broke don't mess with it.

That is just not the American way! If it's not broke, you HAVE to take it apart and figure out why!
SEAWOLF97
11-22-2010, 10:11 PM
That is just not the American way! If it's not broke, you HAVE to take it apart and figure out why!

If it aint broke...fix it 'till it is......:crying:
brutal
11-22-2010, 11:16 PM
If it aint broke...fix it 'till it is......:crying:

You might want to pay close attention to the differences in them. http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L80t%20ts.pdf

It doesn't indicate Red/Black on the N80T diagram, but things look different on the input side.
jcrobso
11-23-2010, 01:28 PM
I got a pair of L80T3 Xovers for my L80T's. From what I understand, they have a mixture of electrolytic and poly (or whatever) caps. Is this correct? I can't tell the difference. If there are electrolytic, would be be a good idea to preemptively replace them? If they're 20+ years old does that mean they will degrade sooner or later? If they're going to go bad, I imagine it would be easier to get them replaced now, before I install them. I don't solder but I'm already planning a trip to a service center. I have two pairs, so I'm going to try refoaming one pair of woofers and paying to have the other done.

Also, should I be able to install the xovers myself? It looks like the connectors don't require solder. I just use the wiring diagram from the L80T3, right?

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L80t3%20ts.pdf

The + and - terminals on the L80T drivers are the same as the T3?

How many years depends on how good they were in the first place.
The only way to tell for sure is to measure them with a LCR meter.:crying:
Rolf
11-23-2010, 01:45 PM
Everything gets old. I believe changing to new components is for the good.
brutal
11-24-2010, 09:32 AM
How many years depends on how good they were in the first place.
The only way to tell for sure is to measure them with a LCR meter.:crying:

And to truly measure all facets of a large cap, an ESR is advised. Most folks have neither.

I bought one of the Blue ESR meter kits and use it often when doing audio repairs. Often it's just used as a confirmation tool, but finding dead caps in-circuit is useful.