Best way to re-apply foilcal?

[nee]

OK, so I removed the foilcals of my 4311Bs with ease using the suggested hairdryer-and-pallette knife trick. Whoever came up with that idea deserves a medal!

I have the foilcals stored between two pieces of glass. I assume I may have to use the hairdryer again to remove them from the glass but I'm hoping that won't be too big a deal.

So, will there be enough adhesive left on the foilcals to get them to stick properly when I re-install them? And assuming that some time in the future I or someone may want to remove them again, what adhesive should I use if indeed I need some?

Thanks!

IanG

[Wagner]

OK, so I removed the foilcals of my 4311Bs with ease using the suggested hairdryer-and-pallette knife trick. Whoever came up with that idea deserves a medal!

I have the foilcals stored between two pieces of glass. I assume I may have to use the hairdryer again to remove them from the glass but I'm hoping that won't be too big a deal.

So, will there be enough adhesive left on the foilcals to get them to stick properly when I re-install them? And assuming that some time in the future I or someone may want to remove them again, what adhesive should I use if indeed I need some?

Thanks!

IanG


A THIN and LIGHT film of contact cement. Just a little FILM on the foilcal itself.
Put in place and when you are sure it's where you want it, press with a WARM iron.
I protect the foilcals with a paper towel (like the ones used to clean and polish acrylics) when pressing.
Just let it be a towel or rag under the iron with no dyes or that's been washed with fabric softener.
Weird things can happen when you mix dyed rags, foilcals and heat.
It'll work like a charm.
IF the foilcal is perfectly flat, you can use the same method but just tack the corners down, it'll make things much better if you ever have need to remove them again.
Take your time.

Thomas

[nee]

Thanks for that quick reply, Thomas. How do you define "contact cement". I'm not in the USA so any pointers are welcome: brand, chemical makeup etc.


IanG

[JuniorJBL]

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=1&oq=contact+c&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4ADRA_enUS345US346&q=contact+cement

[lgvenable]

try 3M type 99 or 92 high tack glues, they spray a jet, so you'll need to spray them into a bowl, then cut with a little MEK till fluid, add a couple of drops of mineral spirits to act as a tailing solvent, mix well. Then apply with a brush, and allow to level until glossy. After they dry follow the advice already given you.

Be advised: take some foil and practice a few times to get your technique right, and add a little more mineral spirits if needed to allow good leveling. However, the more you add, the longer it takes for the mineral spirits to evaporate; which must be completely before you heat seal them. If any solvent is left, they'll bubble.

Again, easy to do, just practice until you've got good technique.

Type 77 is easier to work with, and sprays a fine mist; and is essentially a contact cement. However 92 or 99 will nail those suckers down until the end of time.:D
Larry

[nee]

Thanks so much to all for yoru advice. I can't believe how easy the job was (changing the caps) after reading all the hints and tips on this forum. What did we do before the interwebs?!

IanG

[Mr. Widget]

Type 77 is easier to work with, and sprays a fine mist; and is essentially a contact cement. However 92 or 99 will nail those suckers down until the end of time.:DA medium wet coat of 3M Super 77 will also be quite permanent and as you said, it is pretty easy to work with.

If you do use it, spray it outdoors on a calm day. A very fine mist of the stuff will settle about in your room or garage if you spray it indoors. There is no need to coat both surfaces... just the rear of the foilcal will do the trick.


Widget

[Wagner]

I like contact cement in a can; I can apply it with a brush or a Q-Tip, besides the fact that it has a million other uses.

I can keep the application clean; if any adhesive is right up to the edge, no matter how thin, of the foilcal it WILL show and once in place is practically impossible to remove without buggering up the job. It always seems to find a way to creep out right to the edge and make a little yellowish line where there should be a sharp and clean demarcation between metal and the front baffle.

Maybe I am overly fastidious, but that sort of thing bugs me. You have complete control with brushing.

My technique anyway. I have used spray adhesives in the past, but they require masking, a place to spray etc; a lot more effort for the same results. Plus the aerosol facter (bothers some).
Not to mention the fact that a can of DAP Contact Cement (or similar) that'll last a year's worth of projects and repairs is about half the cost of a little can of 3M spray or similar. I f you don't want to buy a large can, contact cement is also available in small bottles for about $2 bucks. With the bottled stuff make sure it has a recent date code; the bottle seem to stay on the shelves longer than the cans.

Good luck with whatever you choose!

Thomas

[lgvenable]

best way to apply
3M77,92,99
whichever YOU like most
then follow my instructions, but cut adhesive to10% solids (after spraying it), then add ~ 0.25% on solids mineral spirits (tail solvent).
Spray apply with Pasche air brush.

77 from a can works ok, but youre right 92 or 99 is like nearly permanent; but you wont ever have the edges curl up like a 77 application can do, if folks (kids) have a habit of rubbing the edges.

advantage of 77> u dont need to figure out the solids or add tail solvents, as its application is right out of a can

[Wagner]

best way to apply
3M77,92,99
whichever YOU like most
then follow my instructions, but cut adhesive to10% solids (after spraying it), then add ~ 0.25% on solids mineral spirits (tail solvent).
Spray apply with Pasche air brush.

77 from a can works ok, but youre right 92 or 99 is like nearly permanent; but you wont ever have the edges curl up like a 77 application can do, if folks (kids) have a habit of rubbing the edges.

advantage of 77> u dont need to figure out the solids or add tail solvents, as its application is right out of a can

Awful lot of work and cost to solve a problem so simple.

Does it have to be a Pasche or will my Badger do? ;)

Thomas

[lgvenable]

Either, but then again, since I'm a coating expert, I'm a bit anal about applications of coatings or adhesives, and how to get the best flowout.;)

perhaps it was a bit heavy on the work, and light on the results, but then again I do stuff like that all the time (every day at work).

[Mr. Widget]

Does it have to be a Pasche or will my Badger do? ;)
I have a good old USA made Pasche... it might be just the tool for spraying glue... as an airbrush it sucks. I'll take an Iwata anyday... and I sure as hell would never put any glue in one. :D

I think Super 77 would be the simplest solution for this application, but another approach would be to use a double sided PSA film. 3M makes a variety of these as well.


Widget

[lgvenable]

if you want a label that lays on perfectly, the extra work is worth it. 3M77 is just not permanent enough; but 92 or 99 will nail the label, which once down, i'd assume it will NOT be removed again.

Spray application requires some sort of a tailing solvent to ensure flow out as it dries; It might take a little more work, but its worth it. You can use the crack and peel label back to help ensure the label goes down perfectly. MEK with EEP, or diacetone alcohol (70-30), or MEK-DBE (70-30) would make a great spray solvent system.

Double sided tape can "sag" or cold flow over time. if you go that direction Specialty Tapes has some transfer tapes (for use on Rewinders-Packaging lines) which use hi temp silicone adhesive which wont cold flow.