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View Full Version : L-100 fund raiser project



Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:15 PM
Well, as some of you know I have held this up due to family issues, but the project for this most worthy cause is back on track! Heres some pics of the before and after the stripping and sanding. These had some superficial cosmetic problems but those were overcome. Here We are so for.

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:15 PM
The other speaker....

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:16 PM
Left After repairs......

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:17 PM
The other after repairs....

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:18 PM
The grills are in the works also!

boputnam
07-13-2004, 06:18 PM
Yea!!! Audiobeer is back!! :banana:

And, he's working on L100's!! :nutz:

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:18 PM
I know they are your favorites Bud! :D

boputnam
07-13-2004, 06:19 PM
Well, they certainly will be with your unmatched handiwork!

You go, boy! :thmbsup:

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 06:20 PM
The gouges initialy looked worse than what they really are. They all came out with some steam. They never went through the veneer!

Alex Lancaster
07-13-2004, 07:04 PM
Audiobeer:

You are better than OEM, welcome here at the ranch anytime.

boputnam
07-13-2004, 07:39 PM
Originally posted by Alex Lancaster
You are ... welcome here at the ranch anytime. You go, Audiobeer! :smthsail:

Don C
07-13-2004, 08:33 PM
The blue Quadrex grilles from Sonofagun have arrived here. They look fantastic! This is going to be a great looking set of speakers!
Anybody got some Grille emblems to donate? I do have one emblem from an L80T, if anyone has one more, it would be much appreciated.

boputnam
07-13-2004, 08:56 PM
:hmm:

I've no idea if these are correct - I found them cleaning the work bench this weekend. And I was saving them for my next pair of sweeeeeeeeet L100's :rotfl: , but, you're welcome to them. They've got the spring-metal fasteners.

Audiobeer
07-13-2004, 08:57 PM
Do you have a pic of what the badge looks like? I'm 1/2 tempted to heat and remove the badges and hit the fronts with some fresh paint!

Don C
07-13-2004, 09:53 PM
I checked the library here, it looks like the originals had the bright rib around the edge of the emblem. Those would be better than nothing though. I'd like to see how the originals were fastened.
http://www.audioheritage.org/images/jbl/extracts/L100.jpg

4313B
07-14-2004, 04:23 AM
Yeah, I got the correct grille emblems and the foam for the LE25's just showed up. Who do I send this stuff to? Send me a PM.

Need grille pegs? Driver gaskets?

Don C
07-14-2004, 06:23 AM
PM sent. Thanks Giskard!

Regis
07-14-2004, 08:01 AM
The before and after pics of the cabs were pretty cool! Who would've thought that anybody could get them to look that good! Good work!

4313B
07-14-2004, 09:50 AM
Ok, I'll box my contributions to the project up tonight and ship them tomorrow. I wish I still had all my brand new L100 foilcals but I can't find them at all! :banghead:

This is exciting!
Thanks for the project Don and great work Audiobeer! :)

Wardsweb
07-14-2004, 10:15 AM
Absolutely Stunning work ! Kudos to you sir.

So, when can I buy that winning ticket?:D

Audiobeer
07-14-2004, 02:32 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
Yeah, I got the correct grille emblems and the foam for the LE25's just showed up. Who do I send this stuff to? Send me a PM.

Need grille pegs? Driver gaskets?

I'm thinking that I might be able to get the peg grills out. A simple tug was not succesful. I don't want to mask around them when I refinish because it may look obvious. If they come out with a little more effort without destroying them I'll do that. If they don't come out I will just have to mask around them.

Wardsweb
07-14-2004, 04:52 PM
Masking works. I just did these and only masked the pegs and foilcals after refinishing the cabinets I used Krylon semi-flat black. What do you typically use?

Audiobeer
07-14-2004, 07:18 PM
Looks Good! Krylon semi gloss is what i have used in the past. That looks great Bud!

Donald
07-15-2004, 05:55 PM
Just what is this project? Inquirying minds want to know.

boputnam
07-15-2004, 06:29 PM
Hey, Wardsweb, those look really, really nice. I tend to prefer flat black, but there is nothing wrong with that look! :thmbsup:

And, Donald, this Thread is to document an effort to refurbish and upgrade (just a wee bit...) a pair of lustili-sought-after L100's and then auction them to raise money for Don's Dream - er, Mikebake's Project May, to build a one-of-a-kind speaker for Uncle Don.

And, I'm quite intrigued you've got a PB12 dedicated to the Dead. Nice!

Don C
07-15-2004, 09:46 PM
Actually, I believe that we will be having a raffle for them, modeled after this one at Audiokarma:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16657
As for the PB12, Donald is not alone, I think that most of them are probably dead now.

Ski
07-15-2004, 10:05 PM
I'm gonna enter this one too.:cool:

4313B
07-16-2004, 05:34 AM
Yeah, the L100's should go well with your newly won Pioneer! :p

Donald
07-16-2004, 08:39 PM
bo,

The PB12 is only for the dead Dead.

Alex Lancaster
07-17-2004, 07:55 AM
Don:

Would those dead dead be the ungrateful ones?; Seriously, those lines from Harman that used "AMI" output devices are dropping dead all over, If You canīt get them to fix it, buy a 250W plate amp from PE, they work OK, and Your PB would be Lazarus.

Donald
07-17-2004, 01:25 PM
I have looked into a plate amp. Need to see how it would fit since the AMI required a tall narrow slot in the cab and the plates I have seen need a hole about 8 x 8.

Audiobeer
07-22-2004, 06:43 PM
The heat in St. Louis has been a killer along with the humidity. Here's a sanding sealer coat on the set. I'll scuff sand and touch up after a highlight coat then sand again with some topcoats over that. I can't rush it with the humidity right now. :banghead:

Audiobeer
07-26-2004, 07:07 PM
Here's a pic of the cabinets with the final topcoats. I have to wet sand and rub the sheen to a satin finish. Hopefully I'll ship Monday Aug 1st!

Don McRitchie
07-26-2004, 07:18 PM
Looks really nice.

boputnam
07-26-2004, 07:50 PM
Originally posted by Audiobeer
...I can't rush it with the humidity right now. :banghead: No worries. Just to have you back doing the great work, and the training is mighty fine! :yes:

Don C
07-26-2004, 10:58 PM
They look great. I like the masking paper too.
Anyway, I cant wait to see them with Sonofagun's cool blue quadrex grilles.

Audiobeer
07-27-2004, 01:03 PM
I hate masking tape. It seems the fronts have had a dose of paint on them before. There are a few tell tale signs of touch up black on the foilcaps. When I peeled the tape off carefully some of the old paint came... also forcing the "should I paint the front" issue to be answered....YES. I masked in the foilcap labels. I tried an automotive heat gun but I'm afraid it will not come off without a tell tale sign of damage. I masked it in and use an exacto knife to cut around the foil. I always rub out the clear finish last because of the fact when spraying the black some overspray may leak through on the laquer. This way it will buff right off. I'm still on schedule for the 1st Don C.....Right back at you! Same address as on the box?

Audiobeer
07-27-2004, 01:06 PM
I think they will look fantastic with the foam and drivers. The tell tale signs of where previuos velcro pad marks will no longer be apparent however I'll take a "before pic" so in doubt we'll know where they were supposed to go. I for one will be buying several tickets for the chance to get these piece of history knowing full well it's up to date and up to spec. Hey, maybe I can talk my wife into letting me get these so I can go with a smaller footpring in the family room.....you know and then I can toss the L-300s! :D

Chas
07-27-2004, 02:02 PM
Awesome A-B!!!!

Wardsweb
07-27-2004, 03:40 PM
Do you need new foam rings? My order came in today from JBL, so I have some extra. Just shoot me an email with a ship to and they're out the door.

GordonW
07-27-2004, 06:57 PM
Holy F... :eek:

Luther, if JBL says they're out of stock on foam rings next time I call, I'll know why... you must've bought ALL of them!!! :p

Regards,
Gordon.

JBL Dog
07-27-2004, 09:42 PM
I got to see the L100 carcasses live and in-person tonight.

BEE-YOU-TEE-FULL!!

Audiobeer is the man!

:yes:

This message comes from JBL Dog :band:

Don C
07-27-2004, 09:47 PM
Wardsweb,
Thanks for the offer, but I think that we already have some on the way from Giskard, along with some emblems.
And yes, my shipping address is still the same, here on Jenifer Ct.

Don C
08-09-2004, 08:56 PM
Here is a picture of the before and after of the crossover network. Not a lot of changes. First was the new L pads. These are Parts Express #260-255. They can handle more power than the originals, so they should be more reliable. They fit, just barely though. The only problem that I ran into was that the shaft length is 1 inch, while the originals had 3/4 inch. That would have had the knob sticking out on the baffle, and I didn't want that. I solved the problem by adding a sheet of 1/4 inch plastic between the L pads and the mounting board. I just cut out the plastic to fit, and used the networks to guide as I drilled some holes.
The other change is the addition of the bypass caps. These are .1ufd Kimber caps, also from Parts Express. This pretty much updates the crossover to the same spec as the one JBL used on the 4312.
I was was thinking of rewiring with Monster cable, but I decided that if I did, it would be a huge pain to get all of the wires into the terminals. As it was I had to enlarge the terminals on the L pads and also the ones on the terminal strip. Also, looking at those thin wires going to the original caps, I started thinking that it was ridiculous to worry about the other wires too much. I did shorten the cap leads a bit, thinking that a thin short wire is a bit better than a thin long one. So this it it, slightly updated, but still just simple L-100 crossovers. I hope to be installing them next weekend.

Kim L
08-13-2004, 02:45 PM
This thread is a treasure! For those of us who are contemplating refurbishing our old L100's. I bought mine in 1975, I think, serial nos: 169567A and 170176A. I was still in high school and those puppies rocked! YES and Pink Floyd and ELP (and some Russian classical) and Tull...I dragged them to college, back and forth for four years. Everything was trash except the L100's (and maybe the Sansui 881). Then to graduate school. Then to San Mateo where they sat in storage for a while...then back to the South.

I do not think that I own any other material objects that I truly care about. And I own a lot of crap these days...if my house caught on fire, first I would get the kids, then the JBL's. These speakers represent an entire generation of teenagers who grauduated in the 70's and struggled through the misery index to finally succeed in the 80's. The end of the war, all that incredible 70's music. We could barely scrape up the $1.49 for a six-pac of Billy Beer, but by God we could crank up the Centuries!

Excellent choice! JBL Model L100 Century...Dare I say cultural icon?? I sense a revival, gentlemen; play the soundtrack to "O' Brother, Where Art Thou?" on your JBL's! "Crank it up!"

Oh yeah, I guess there were some audiophile types that thought they were okay as "bookshelf speakers", whatever that is.

Could you put together all the specifics of the restoration, including the steaming and refinishing of the veneer, and maybe add re-coning. Part numbers, sanding grit, the whole works into a book to sell? I would be the first to buy and support the project and this site!

Thanks,
Kim

P.S., I paid $319 each for my L100's, every dime I had. What cost $640 in 1975 would cost $2275 in 2003. Mine are worth a lot more than that.

Donald
08-15-2004, 12:26 PM
Don C,

Just want to be sure. Electrically each, new cap is in parallel to one of the existing caps?

Another question. If the shafts of the pots were 1/4" too long, why couldn't you just cut off the 1/4"? Or was the threaded part too long?

Zilch
08-15-2004, 01:34 PM
Noting that JBL shows .01 mfd. bypass caps on the PT800 (Marketplace thread,) I'm wondering why we're using 0.1 mfd. here. Is it a better choice?

I know, there's threads and threads about bypassing here, but cut to to bottom line for us, please....

Don C
08-15-2004, 03:45 PM
The shaft length could not be shortened easily because the extra length was on the threaded part of the shaft. I wanted the knobs to still fit well, so I did not want to cut the front part off. Adding the extra material was the first easy thing that I thought of that would work, so that's what I did.

The caps are in paralell with the original caps. You can tell if you follow the colored wires from the original caps, the new ones go to the same terminals.

I was guess that I was supposed to order .01 caps but I screwed up the order. I could have sworn that .1 was what JBL was using. I didn't even notice that I was wrong until you pointed it out. I don't think that it will make much difference, being such a small change. But I can change them if there is a good argument to do so.

I have the L-100s back here now. I am working on cleaning up all of the old glue and velcro from the grille frames so that the new foam will sit flat.

Mr. Widget
08-15-2004, 04:17 PM
JBL has used both .1 and .01 as bypass caps in various designs. I doubt it makes any difference.

Widget

Donald
08-15-2004, 05:42 PM
My xover has a terminal strip pressed into an aluminum channel. The aluminum has a white powder on it. I assume it is oxidation.

droh
08-15-2004, 07:44 PM
Hey Don,

Try using Goof Off (available at hardware stores and Home Depot) to remove that glue and old foam. It worked like a champ for me on my L100 frames. Give it a few minutes to soak in and then scrape with a plastic putty knife. You might be able to do it without losing the black fabric, but I just replaced mine.

Zilch
08-16-2004, 11:25 AM
Seems a major point of having the fabric there is to provide a glue point for the grille in the center of the woofer. The fabric doesn' seem to give much support. I'm thinkin' of using fiberglass window screen instead, maybe.

Any thoughts?

sonofagun
08-16-2004, 12:52 PM
Having had much experience with the old frames and installing new grilles onto them, IMO the purpose of the fabric is to provide support to the back of the grille foam (prevents excess sagging or flexing) as well as providing a little added protection for the drivers.

I would recommend using f'glas window screen fabric also - stretch and staple in place.

Sounds like a good tip for removing old glue and foam. A sharp chisel or scraper works too.

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:07 PM
They are coming along, slowly. It will probably just be a few more days before they are done. Here is a tweeter being refoamed.

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:10 PM
Here is one that is finished.

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:13 PM
I have always hated the style of connectors that JBL used on these speakers. While I have them apart, I decided to retrofit some decent binding posts. Here are the parts. New and old.

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:16 PM
I have one of the grille frames glued up. I will probably do the other one tomorrow. Here it is, taking over the dining room table, while the glue dries.

Audiobeer
08-17-2004, 08:17 PM
Great job Don!!! :)

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:18 PM
This is the glue that Sonofagun suggested. It is the same stuff that is used for gluing laminated counter tops.

Audiobeer
08-17-2004, 08:22 PM
That blue cloth is going to look slick baby!:D

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:22 PM
Here is the back of the emblem. I fooled with it for a while, I couldnt decide how they are supposed to attatch at first. I decided not to cut a square out of the foam, I just pushed the pin of the emblem through the foam, added a homemade washer, and the retainer. It is just squeezing the foam under the emblem.

Don C
08-17-2004, 08:24 PM
Here it is from the front. Poor focus, sorry.
Better pictures are coming later.

Ken Pachkowsky
08-17-2004, 10:41 PM
The logo was held in place on the foam grills of L88 Plus and L100's by the MIRACLE of VELCRO, a small piece was attached to the back of the logo and if you turned them on their side you turned the logo to match. Have a friend that has both that's how I know.

Hope this helps.

Ken

4313B
08-18-2004, 05:11 AM
Originally posted by Ken Pachkowsky
The logo was held in place on the foam grills of L88 Plus and L100's by the MIRACLE of VELCRO, a small piece was attached to the back of the logo and if you turned them on their side you turned the logo to match. Have a friend that has both that's how I know.

Hope this helps.

Ken Oops! That's right! Send the three I sent you back and I'll send you the velcro ones. Please don't break off the posts! :)

Wardsweb
08-18-2004, 05:12 AM
WOW those are sure looking sweet. The craftsmanship is superb and the attention to detail beyond reproach. KUDOS!

OK, I'm ready to send money....just waiting.

Don C
08-18-2004, 06:12 AM
"Send the three I sent you back and I'll send you the velcro ones"

Nope, too late. There is no way to get the emblem off of the grille without tearing a big hole in the grille foam, it is glued, and the glue has been setting up overnight. It has to stay just like it is.
It looks good, so I'm not worried about it.
I could send back the one extra emblem if you want, it was nice to have the extra, but it looks like I wont be needing it.

4313B
08-18-2004, 06:17 AM
No, don't bother, keep it. Those were the only three I had with the extra long posts. I never use that particular post size.

droh
08-18-2004, 06:19 AM
Are the old style JBL emblems, the non-post variety used on the L100 still available from JBL? Is there a prt number?

4313B
08-18-2004, 06:23 AM
Originally posted by droh
Are the old style JBL emblems, the non-post variety used on the L100 still available from JBL? Is there a prt number? The last time I checked the emblems were NLA. I never use the velcro backed emblems so if you need some I can count how many I have and hook you up. I figure with the current eBay price of $1,000 for a pair of L100's the emblems are worth at least $998 for a pair.

OMG! :rotfl: I am sooo funny! :rotfl:

Audiobeer
08-18-2004, 09:32 AM
I'll give you that if it has the original parts sleeve! :eek:

boputnam
08-18-2004, 09:39 AM
Originally posted by Ken Pachkowsky
... Have a friend that has both that's how I know. Liar! :scold: You have at LEAST two pairs of L100's, I'm guessing!! Westlakes, indeed!! :no:

Audiobeer
08-18-2004, 09:42 AM
Did you get the pegs back yet Don? They should come today via UPS at the latest if you didn't get them yet.

sonofagun
08-18-2004, 09:42 AM
Velcro makes a special one piece, self stick hook tape specifically for attaching grille foam which I stock. This would be best for attaching name plates if glue is not your choice.

When gluing grilles to frames, you should always keep the grilles face up to prevent any glue from dripping down through the foam.
Glad it wasn't a problem in this case! That type contact cement is all I've ever found that worked for really attaching/gluing foam. Spray foam adhesives I've tried (including industrial) work poorly.

Working on making some L100 frames - they're really not too hard to make...IF you have the time - I'm weeks behind on orders and in the process of moving too...:eek:

droh
08-18-2004, 02:38 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
The last time I checked the emblems were NLA. I never use the velcro backed emblems so if you need some I can count how many I have and hook you up. I figure with the current eBay price of $1,000 for a pair of L100's the emblems are worth at least $998 for a pair.

OMG! :rotfl: I am sooo funny! :rotfl:

What a generous offer Giskard, do those emblems have some controversial cabinets and drivers attached to the back? Oh no they couldn't the foam in between would have rotted away by now.

But seriously I would be interested in buying a couple of pair if you have them. And if you have a part number who knows, maybe they will show up again on the parts list.

4313B
08-18-2004, 03:03 PM
Originally posted by droh
What a generous offer Giskard, do those emblems have some controversial cabinets and drivers attached to the back? Oh no they couldn't the foam in between would have rotted away by now.

But seriously I would be interested in buying a couple of pair if you have them. And if you have a part number who knows, maybe they will show up again on the parts list. No, no, no. No controversial cabinets and drivers attached. Those got booted off a cliff right after salvaging the emblems. :D (For those who care, they didn't bounce.)

I have two with the velcro still attached and two that need velcro glued back on. The price is free if you PM me with your address.

boputnam
08-18-2004, 03:10 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
(For those who care, they didn't bounce.) That'd be ME!! :D :dancin:

4313B
08-18-2004, 03:30 PM
:rotfl:

Are you going to put money on the raffle Bo?
I will definitely be putting in my $10. :)

Lookin' good Don and Audiobeer! :yes:

droh
08-18-2004, 03:45 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
No, no, no. No controversial cabinets and drivers attached. Those got booted off a cliff right after salvaging the emblems. :D (For those who care, they didn't bounce.)



Hey, some guy must have found those at the bottom of the cliff cause I think I bought them on ebay. He said they had some minor scratches and just some pushed in domes on the tweeters.

4313B
08-18-2004, 05:29 PM
Originally posted by droh
Hey, some guy must have found those at the bottom of the cliff cause I think I bought them on ebay. He said they had some minor scratches and just some pushed in domes on the tweeters. That'd be them! :)

Don C
08-18-2004, 07:25 PM
Here is the other grille. A slightly better picture this time.

dblaxter
08-18-2004, 07:59 PM
hi everybody , could someone please let me know how or who to buy these tickets to get a chance to win the nice L100s , i have been following the progress and all i can say is WOW great job somebody is going to get a fine example of JBL, no i hope i'm right audiobeer's craftmenship thanks

Alex Lancaster
08-19-2004, 06:30 AM
DL:

Bo has tricked up the deal before it starts, He wants to have 2 more, almost all the walls on His house are covered with L100īs, even the closets.:p :p

Zilch
08-19-2004, 11:51 AM
A 21st-Century Johnny Appleseed, Bo is rumored to have also paved substantial areas of the heartland with L-100's....

Audiobeer
08-19-2004, 12:39 PM
Originally posted by dblaxter
hi everybody , could someone please let me know how or who to buy these tickets to get a chance to win the nice L100s , i have been following the progress and all i can say is WOW great job somebody is going to get a fine example of JBL, no i hope i'm right audiobeer's craftmenship thanks

It will run some time (I'm guessing) after they are completed. No time table is set though. I don't have any ideal how or who's handling.

sonofagun
08-19-2004, 01:11 PM
Originally posted by Don C
Here is the other grille. A slightly better picture this time.

I must add hear the ACTUAL color of the grille is somewhat bluer and richer than picture shows. I'm very picky about the colors I provide! :)

Don C
08-19-2004, 10:27 PM
I worked on the assembly more tonight. Turned out that one midrange was bad. Strange, as the resistance checked good with an ohmeter, but there was no sound. I replaced it with a spare that I had, and all is well now. I have the midrange levels turned down to the -3 position now, after some experimenting. They sound good.

Don C
08-19-2004, 10:33 PM
As Sonofagun mentioned, the color of the grilles is different in person. They look much better in person, deeper and darker. The grille looks very light in this picture because of the camera's flash. I will try to get some good pictures with morning daylight and a tripod on Saturday or Sunday.
I am still waiting for the grille pegs to arrive, and I have to decide how to secure the loose part of the foilcal, other than that, they are ready.

Audiobeer
08-20-2004, 12:24 PM
Oh Yea! Now we are talking. Looking good Don! :D Are you going to reglue the foilcap edge?

Don C
08-20-2004, 01:44 PM
I cant decide whether to use more contact cement, or black max superglue to glue them. Probably the contact cement. I was thinking of leaving the speakers sitting on their backs with a pile of books sitting on the foilcal, to see if it will flatten out on its own. If nothing else works, I can just put the crossover screw through it to hold it down.

Audiobeer
08-20-2004, 03:14 PM
I've had good luck with the contact cement. I did put some pressure on them to see if they would stay down and they came back up with a little warm humid air in the shop but I never put any adhesion on them as I knew you had to refit the L-Pads.

Don C
08-21-2004, 11:50 AM
A couple more pics:

Don C
08-21-2004, 11:53 AM
Last one for now.

Audiobeer
08-21-2004, 12:10 PM
The grill look much better with that pic! Sell some tickets bud!!! :D

4313B
08-21-2004, 12:54 PM
Originally posted by Audiobeer
Sell some tickets bud!!! :D Yeah dammit! :yes:

speakerdave
08-21-2004, 01:19 PM
I'll buy some. Hell, just looking at the photo gives me a nostalgia rush! Nice work, guys.

Wardsweb
08-21-2004, 08:21 PM
OK Mr. McR are you going to manage this fund raiser?
When does it start?
How long does it run?
Where do I send my money?
Can I do PayPal?
huh, huh, huh....

inquiring minds want to know :D

johnaec
08-21-2004, 09:32 PM
Originally posted by Wardsweb
OK Mr. McR are you going to manage this fund raiser?
When does it start?
How long does it run?
Where do I send my money?
Can I do PayPal?
huh, huh, huh....

inquiring minds want to know :D I heard Don liked the way they turned out so much that he was buying all the tickets himself! :duck:

They look great! :yes:

John

Audiobeer
08-21-2004, 09:34 PM
I wonder if there is a legal way to do this on Ebay with multiple items (Chances) at a fixed price for a chance? I doubt it though are it might have already been done.

Zilch
08-21-2004, 10:03 PM
Raffles prohibited on eBay.

http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/listing-giveaways.html

Don't want them gettin' a "cut," anyway, probably....

johnaec
08-22-2004, 07:24 AM
Originally posted by Audiobeer
I wonder if there is a legal way to do this on Ebay with multiple items (Chances) at a fixed price for a chance? I doubt it though are it might have already been done. I belong to a couple different car clubs that often have online raffles to help support their operation, and it's all fully legal, done through their websites. They sell tickets online for $10 each, that way anyone can get as few or as many chances as they want. They even have a "ticker" on their website that automatically shows how many are left, (they use the same software this site does, though that may be something custom). Payment is usually via PayPal in an account specifically for the raffle. They usually have 150 tickets available, and when all are sold, the club prisident has a procedure for picking the winning ticket, ('not sure of the details - it was explained but I forgot it).

The main one I'm thinking about has about five or six raffles per year. For prizes they have about five different packages you can pick from, (wheels, engine parts, etc.). The value of the packages is around $800-$1000, so they net about $3000 per year to run the club. I was even lucky enough to win one of them once, and got a nice set of custom springs and shocks for my T-Bird.

I think that would be the easiest way to set it up, though the price of the tickets and amount available, (or ending date?), could be different here, since it's just this one set of speakers.

John

Audiobeer
08-22-2004, 09:08 AM
Ok....well it was a thought. How did the Pioneer guys admin thiers? Anybody have any ideals like johnaec's?

Don C
08-22-2004, 10:05 PM
Here's an old review that I found.

sonofagun
08-23-2004, 04:55 AM
Yup, I always knew my grilles were "spiffy"!

:D

Thanks, Don.

Wardsweb
08-23-2004, 06:19 AM
Originally posted by Audiobeer
Ok....well it was a thought. How did the Pioneer guys admin thiers? Anybody have any ideals like johnaec's?

Just so happens, I ran the sweepstakes on Audiokarma.org (http://www.audiokarma.org) . I setup a new email address (1010raffle@audiokarma) for the site and added it to our PayPal account. This way members could pay via PayPal or send payment to me direct. Ticket's were $1 each and you could buy as many as you wanted. We sold just over 1100 tickets for the Pioneer, which we had totally gone through, tricked out and custom wood cabinet made. All names, ticket numbers and fees were logged in an Excel spreadsheet. The winning number was chosen with a random number generating software package.

At present we are rafflling off a Jolida 102B amp and again tickets are only $1. This one is raffle@audiokarma.org as not to be confused with the Pioneer 1010 raffle.

sonofagun
08-24-2004, 04:55 AM
"The winning number was chosen with a random number generating software package."

Gee whiz! Wouldn't it be better tha old fashioned way? Put all the "tickets" into a fish bowl and have some innocent :) (or maybe not so innocent :eek: ) little (or maybe not so little) girl pick the winner and video tape the whole thing we can all play back on our screens (especially if she's not so innocent or little?).

Even have it all witnessed by responsibull persons's.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

4313B
08-24-2004, 05:10 AM
Originally posted by sonofagun
Put all the "tickets" into a fish bowl and have some innocent :) (or maybe not so innocent :eek: ) little (or maybe not so little) girl pick the winner and video tape the whole thing we can all play back on our screens (especially if she's not so innocent or little?).Absolutely! :yes: I vote for the Japanese girl from Kill Bill.

GordonW
08-24-2004, 10:34 PM
Ah, you mean Chiaki Kuriyama! Quite a ferocious one there, Giskard! Have you seen her in any other movies? She's in several other Japanese movies, including "Battle Royale"... a rather twisted, highly entertaining story about a bunch of high-school students dumped on an island and "instructed" to kill each other... as the title implies!

Anyhow, a raffle involving Chiaki-chan would DEFINITELY be a spectacle! Just be sure that she doesn't mace or slice up the raffle tickets to the point where nobody can read 'em!!

:D

Donald
08-25-2004, 08:59 AM
"Battle Royale" sounds like an updated Lord of the Flies.

GordonW
08-25-2004, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by Donald
"Battle Royale" sounds like an updated Lord of the Flies.

In a twisted, sadistic way, yes. :o :D

Regards,
Gordon.

Wardsweb
08-26-2004, 05:57 AM
OK, back to our regular programming:

When do ticket sales start? I want to buy my ticket so I can win and get these shipped. I've already made a place for them. :D

Zilch
08-26-2004, 09:45 AM
Originally posted by Wardsweb
I've already made a place for them. :D Yeah, right here at MY house, heh, heh....

Thanks for your kind assistance moving all this other stuff around.

[OH, and would you lock the door on your way out, please?]

:rockon1: :bouncy:

Alex Lancaster
08-26-2004, 09:51 AM
He moved all the other stuff to HIS van.

Audiobeer
09-05-2004, 08:07 AM
Wow I can't believe I won.....and with only 1 ticket! :p


(A shameless bump to revive thread......please ignore contents)

Robh3606
09-05-2004, 09:05 AM
So what's going on?? Those came out great!! You all did a great job restoring them. So where can you buy tickets??

Rob:nutz:

Wardsweb
09-05-2004, 02:42 PM
Originally posted by Robh3606
So what's going on?? Those came out great!! You all did a great job restoring them. So where can you buy tickets??

Rob:nutz:

DITTO

Audiobeer
09-05-2004, 08:07 PM
Actualy Don C did most the work! My post was just an effort to get an ideal of where we are at.

Wardsweb
09-10-2004, 11:52 AM
Any news?

Don C
09-10-2004, 12:58 PM
I'd like to get them out of my house before 2005 if possible.

Don McRitchie
09-10-2004, 12:58 PM
I have been developing an raffle section for our site to describe the project, why it has been developed and how it will be conducted. This will include the extensive set of photos that Don sent to me. I am a few days away in finishing this work. In the meantime, I am open to suggestions for how much to charge per ticket and how long to keep the raffle open. My suggestion is $10/ticket. Given the relatively limited size of our target market, $1/ticket seems too low. I know that most people would buy more than one ticket at this price. However, I think there would still be a large number of people that would only plunk down $1 and this would become a logistical headache in addition to limiting revenue.

With regards to timing, I would suggest keeping it open ended at first just to see what kind of interest we generate and then give us the flexibility to change how we market the raffle if we don't generate a sufficient level of interest the first go around.

4313B
09-10-2004, 01:40 PM
Originally posted by Don C
I'd like to get them out of my house before 2005 if possible. Stinking up the place that bad eh? :coolness:

4313B
09-10-2004, 01:43 PM
Originally posted by Don McRitchie
My suggestion is $10/ticket. Given the relatively limited size of our target market, $1/ticket seems too low.Tough call. I wouldn't balk at buying a few tickets at $10 each. Anyone for $5 a ticket? I think $1 a ticket is too low as well. Is the gang at AudioKarma going to jump in?

Mr. Widget
09-10-2004, 01:51 PM
I like $5 each. Maybe I can go in on a ticket with just one other person then. :D

Widget

Earl K
09-10-2004, 02:02 PM
Well, I also like $5.00 a ticket . I think it'll generate more traffic .

What if a winner declines the "prize" ?

Who pays the shipping ?

<> Earl K

Don C
09-10-2004, 02:06 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
Stinking up the place that bad eh? :coolness:
Right now I have six sets of speakers in the living room, the place looks like a stereo shop. Seven if you count the subs. Its mostly stuff that I am planning to auction off later in the year. I think my wife has been pretty patient in putting up with this, but the lack of space is even starting to bug me now. It's even bothering the dog, the Fosgates are occupying what used to be her spot near the corner.

scott fitlin
09-10-2004, 02:06 PM
This works, and I will buy some tickets!

speakerdave
09-10-2004, 02:07 PM
If Earl and Widget go in together on a ticket and win they each get a center channel.

Recipient pays the shipping (and taxes).

If the prize is declined (could happen) raffle it again. (There should be a rule against the winner raffling it off himself.)

David

Wardsweb
09-10-2004, 05:37 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
... Is the gang at AudioKarma going to jump in?

Good question, will this only be open to members of this site or the general public? If open, do we advertise on other forums? I'm open here, so what ever you want and I will follow your lead.

Alex Lancaster
09-10-2004, 06:18 PM
Don: I think the $10 is ideal, the rest too.

Audiobeer
09-11-2004, 08:10 AM
It's a fund raiser so the more people it is open to the more bucks will be spent. I say open it up to anyone that wants to buy a ticket! :smthsail:

LE15-Thumper
09-11-2004, 11:23 AM
I think the $10.00 ticket is a good price given the value of the prize.

I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but have we discussed the legalities of Draw/Lottery ? Aren't these things best handled by an independant third party to avoid allegations of rigging and lottery fixing ? :readme:

I just don't want to see this site and it's organizers forced to deal with a sore loser. :bash:
No I am not a lawyer !

johnaec
09-11-2004, 11:35 AM
I agree - $10/ticket.

John

Mr. Widget
09-11-2004, 11:53 AM
Originally posted by LE15-Thumper

I just don't want to see this site and it's organizers forced to deal with a sore loser. :bash:
No I am not a lawyer !

We'll have Bo explain to the losers how they are all really winners. He can be quite an inspirational speaker. :snore:

Widget

bob newton
09-11-2004, 04:46 PM
Does anyone care to specify what the funds are being raised for??Five or ten, count me in. I always win. and I really need some more L-100's . Sorry Bo , I know u want them bad.:duck: :duck:

LE15-Thumper
09-11-2004, 06:21 PM
Originally posted by Mr. Widget
We'll have Bo explain to the losers how they are all really winners. He can be quite an inspirational speaker. :snore:

Widget



Stop it ! Your killing me :rotfl:

Mr. Widget
09-11-2004, 07:23 PM
Originally posted by bob newton
Does anyone care to specify what the funds are being raised for??


For Bob and any of the other newbies that may have missed it, the funds will be to help with the Project May.

http://www.audioheritage.org/html/projectmay/pmintro.htm

Widget

Wardsweb
09-21-2004, 09:03 PM
Bump - any updates on where we stand for the raffle?

bob newton
09-22-2004, 05:26 PM
Yeah, whens this raffle gonna start? I am waiting for my L-100's :duck: :cheers:

Audiobeer
09-25-2004, 08:30 PM
Bump :D

Wardsweb
09-30-2004, 06:57 AM
Come on guys, let me hurry up and just loose my money on this thing and be done with it, so I can move on with my life. :D

bob newton
09-30-2004, 05:43 PM
Yeah me too, Ditto

bob newton
09-30-2004, 05:51 PM
Tap, Tap, Tap -- ho hum , ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
I betcha Bo made a secret deal and bought the L-100's !!

:mad: :mad: :duck: :rotfl: :spin: :yes: :cheers: :snore:

Audiobeer
10-01-2004, 01:38 PM
Has anyone seen my pipe...........:p

bob newton
10-01-2004, 05:06 PM
Havn't seen it but you can barrow mine!! :D ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

boputnam
10-01-2004, 06:23 PM
Originally posted by bob newton
I betcha Bo made a secret deal and bought the L-100's !!
:wave:

bob newton
10-01-2004, 06:35 PM
Ah Ha, Just as I thought :cheers:

sonofagun
10-06-2004, 10:31 AM
Originally posted by Don McRitchie
I have been developing an raffle section for our site to describe the project, why it has been developed and how it will be conducted. This will include the extensive set of photos that Don sent to me. I am a few days away in finishing this work. In the meantime, I am open to suggestions for how much to charge per ticket and how long to keep the raffle open. My suggestion is $10/ticket. Given the relatively limited size of our target market, $1/ticket seems too low. I know that most people would buy more than one ticket at this price. However, I think there would still be a large number of people that would only plunk down $1 and this would become a logistical headache in addition to limiting revenue.

With regards to timing, I would suggest keeping it open ended at first just to see what kind of interest we generate and then give us the flexibility to change how we market the raffle if we don't generate a sufficient level of interest the first go around.

Hate to say something, BUT since I donated to this project am sort of curious as to what gives???

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

4313B
10-06-2004, 10:42 AM
Yeah, this has turned out to be a real stinker.

I now hate this thread. :p

Oh wait! Chiaki Kuriyama is in it so it can't be all that bad. :coolness:

But, I had hoped it would encourage more raffles in the future.

Wardsweb
10-06-2004, 01:47 PM
If someone would just say how much and where, I'm sure the money would start rolling in. I know I would be sending in.

So who is heading this raffle ? Or is there no one leading this project?

4313B
10-06-2004, 02:05 PM
Yeah, that guy is, noone.

bob newton
10-06-2004, 03:09 PM
$5.00 or $10.00 , Who cares. LETS GET THE SHOW ON THE ROAD!! (just send them to me, I already won them! hee hee):rotfl: :yes: :coolness: :snore: :wtf:

Audiobeer
10-08-2004, 08:03 PM
Can I get a bump! :D

Wardsweb
10-08-2004, 09:04 PM
bump...bump...who's got the bump

GordonW
10-08-2004, 10:40 PM
big beats bumping with the bass in back? :D

Regards,
Gordon.
sorry, had an LL Cool J moment there... :cool:

Audiobeer
10-11-2004, 01:20 PM
Has anyone seen the remote :banghead:

bob newton
10-11-2004, 01:34 PM
Has anyone seen the remote


I THINK IT WENT THAT-A-WAY:o :yes: :spin: :snore:

Wardsweb
10-14-2004, 02:32 PM
Hello - let's not forget :)

bob newton
10-14-2004, 04:55 PM
Yawn :snore:

sonofagun
10-14-2004, 06:31 PM
Camptown races comin' to town...

Robh3606
10-16-2004, 06:44 AM
Doooh Dahhh Doooh Daah

Rob:)

sonofagun
10-17-2004, 08:47 AM
OK, so, well for anyone here who MIGHT be wondering, I havit on guud authoritty, that Mista McRitchie is workingon the raffle details and shuud have it ready shortly soonly.

That's what I hoid anyway.

IF anyone's wondering... ;)

Wardsweb
10-24-2004, 05:20 AM
just my weekly "don't forget about this" post. :)

sonofagun
11-04-2004, 06:09 PM
A couple days ago, there was a thread about this (phantom?) raffle with an update saying it was about ready...now I can't find it....

WHERE the ___ IS IT?????

I donated to this and frankly I'm getting a little ____!


:biting:

My apology if this offends anyone...but really.

Don McRitchie
11-04-2004, 06:47 PM
The raffle is imminent - a matter of days. The logistics of setting it up, dealing with financial and legal issues takes time. Sorry for the delays.

sonofagun
11-05-2004, 04:56 AM
Thanks Don, but...

what happened to the thread I asked about?

:confused:

Don McRitchie
11-05-2004, 05:52 AM
Nothing to my knowledge. It is still here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=3591

sonofagun
11-05-2004, 04:33 PM
Oh, OK. I was just looking on the wrong forums.

:banghead:

scott fitlin
11-05-2004, 04:45 PM
Originally posted by Don McRitchie
The raffle is imminent - a matter of days. The logistics of setting it up, dealing with financial and legal issues takes time. Sorry for the delays. Ill take ten tickets!

bob newton
11-07-2004, 03:37 PM
Excuses Excuses, Still havn't received the L-100's that I won!! BTW, computer has been down for weeks --- but I'm back now!! Anybody miss me?? MUAHHH!!:wave:

Wardsweb
12-03-2004, 11:37 AM
So, did the last person to work on these, just decide to keep them? :(

Mr. Widget
12-03-2004, 11:40 AM
I think we need to get this raffle going... are we still waiting on the lawyers?

Widget

johnaec
12-03-2004, 12:33 PM
I think we need to get this raffle going... are we still waiting on the lawyers?We're waiting on the Clio charts to be sure they're working correctly!! :thmbsup:

John

Don C
12-03-2004, 12:38 PM
So, did the last person to work on these, just decide to keep them? :(That's me. No I'm not going to keep them. I might end up eBaying them though, if this raffle doesn't get started soon. I'm on a roll with the speaker selling. And I am getting tired of looking at them in the living room.
My auctions (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZnovadonQQsorecordsperpageZ25 QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1)

Mr. Widget
12-03-2004, 01:48 PM
That's me. No I'm not going to keep them. I might end up eBaying them though, if this raffle doesn't get started soon. I'm on a roll with the speaker selling. And I am getting tired of looking at them in the living room.
My auctions (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZnovadonQQsorecordsperpageZ25 QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1)
No wonder you're selling all of those speakers. They aren't JBLs. :D

Good luck with the auctions.

Widget

Zilch
12-03-2004, 02:04 PM
Don auditioned Project May.

All else is irrelevant, and disposable, now.... :)

Don McRitchie
12-03-2004, 05:34 PM
I know that it seems like this raffle is taking forever to get off the ground - mainly becuase it has taken forever. Dennis Leisz has generously offered to manage this raflle, our site finances in general and provide further fund raising opportunities. It has taken time to transfer all of these responsibilities to Dennis, but the last steps were put in place this week. I am working to finalize the raffle section of the website (currently not visible while under development) and plan to have an official announcement this weekend.

Don C
12-03-2004, 06:24 PM
Auction? Its officially not going to be a raffle then? It's OK with me I guess, but I figured that a raffle would raise a lot more money.

Don McRitchie
12-03-2004, 06:33 PM
My bad. I keep using the term auction and raffle interchangably when the intent has always been and remains a raffle. I've edited my previous post accordingly.

bob newton
12-03-2004, 07:00 PM
Oh well, All GOOD things are worth waiting for! My mom always said that. But this is getting silly. :screwy: :snore: :snore: :snore:

2pair
12-08-2004, 03:25 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by Don McRitchie
The raffle is imminent - a matter of days. The logistics of setting it up, dealing with financial and legal issues takes time. Sorry for the delays.

Is this still on? I'd be in for a few tickets at $10.
If it happens that is.....

sonofagun
12-08-2004, 06:56 AM
That's me. No I'm not going to keep them. I might end up eBaying them though, if this raffle doesn't get started soon. I'm on a roll with the speaker selling. And I am getting tired of looking at them in the living room.
My auctions (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZnovadonQQsorecordsperpageZ25 QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1)
Hmmm, I was thinking about suggesting we just sell them on eBay myself!

Of course, maybe once all the mechanisms for having a raffle are worked out, it will be easier to do them in the future.

Hey, let's make up another pair to put on eBay and see which raises the most $$$. :cool:

Don C
12-08-2004, 08:01 AM
Hmmm, we might do better auctioning a pair of NS-10Ms.

bob newton
12-09-2004, 06:47 PM
WHO'S KIDDING WHO?? BO ALREADY BOUGHT THEM!!:duck:

scott fitlin
12-09-2004, 07:02 PM
WHO'S KIDDING WHO?? BO ALREADY BOUGHT THEM!!:duck: :rotfl:

Audiobeer
12-09-2004, 08:16 PM
I think putting them on Ebay is a fantastic ideal!

bob newton
12-09-2004, 08:57 PM
I think putting them on Ebay is a fantastic ideal

Maybe, maybe not

jlovda
01-29-2005, 05:19 PM
I would like to ask AudioBeer some questions as I would like to begin a similar project on a pair of L-88P speakers with a DIY midrange upgrade using LE5-8 mids. These speakers have the same front grille frame so I will see if I can get a set of replacement foam grilles.
1. What did you use to strip the old finish off?
2. What was your technique with the steam to get scratches out? Did you use a drapery steamer? How long did you apply the steam? I assume you have to be careful not to lift the veneer off the base wood. Did the scratches literally swell up to surface level or were there still some residual marks? Did the scratches completely disappear after sanding? Did you have to use any filler on edge chips, etc?
3. Did you use a rotary palm sander for your work? What grade of sandpaper did you work with?
4. What brand and color name of stain did you use? I once tried Minwax "Special Walnut" but it was much too light.
5. It's hard to tell with pictures but how close do you feel you came to the original JBL cabinet finish? The JBL walnut finish is quite dark and very flat with virtually no sheen. Even "Low Sheen" Tung Oil seems to look like varnish in comparison. What did you use on top of the stain?

Thanks for your help. Your pictures look beautiful. You did a great job!:)
John Lovda

Audiobeer
01-29-2005, 08:15 PM
Give me a day to respond as I just read this and it's late. Thanks!:)

Donald
01-29-2005, 09:16 PM
Mr. Beer,

I look forward to your answers. I have 2 pair of L100 cabs that need work. With some information in hand I might actually start! :dont-know

Audiobeer
01-30-2005, 10:07 AM
I would like to ask AudioBeer some questions as I would like to begin a similar project on a pair of L-88P speakers with a DIY midrange upgrade using LE5-8 mids. These speakers have the same front grille frame so I will see if I can get a set of replacement foam grilles.

Grill frames won't be a problem but the foam will be. There just isn't a call to make replacements for this model. Think of how many L100s were made and getting good replacement is like pulling teeth.

1. What did you use to strip the old finish off?

I don't like wimpy strippers! I use aircraft paint stripper from the auto parts store. If used carefully saves time and is water soluble. If however there are no scratches to a finish, I will use anyting like acetone or laquer thinner with gloves and of course a lit cigarette. :applaud:

2. What was your technique with the steam to get scratches out? Did you use a drapery steamer? How long did you apply the steam? I assume you have to be careful not to lift the veneer off the base wood. Did the scratches literally swell up to surface level or were there still some residual marks? Did the scratches completely disappear after sanding? Did you have to use any filler on edge chips, etc?

That answer varies depending on the type of scratch. If it went through to the cabinets veneer then steaming will only help close the scratch, but not solve the problem. You see wood being a cellulose creature has those cells compressed or crushed if you will when they get scratched or marred. By steaming you are in a way inflating those cells thereby restoring their original physical size......almost. After steaming I have mearly applied a little scuff sanding to a light scratch and it was restored without any tell tale signs. In most cases you will elevate the scratched area and sand the area around it equalizing both the veneer levels and the patina. I always use a common household iron. I take a rag that is clean and dip it in distilled or bottle water. Tap water is fine as long as you know there is no heavy calcium or chemicals. Dampen the area to the point of saturation but not heavy enough to have it dripping. Take that same rag, lay it right on top of the scratch and move the iron over the top of the flat rag like your flattening out pizza dough. Your trying to do 2 things.......get that steam in the scratched area and at the same time trying to distribute the steam and heat around the area as to not leave a change in the woods patina that isn't shared equaly around the scratch. Let it dry in 15 minutes and block sand the area you worked with 120 grit cabinet paper. But before doing that I try to hand sanding what is left of the scratch, seeing if whats left of its definition can be reduced any more. If done properly you will not have any adhesion issues.


3. Did you use a rotary palm sander for your work? What grade of sandpaper did you work with?

I do use a rotary sander for finish sanding but never over any topcats. If you let the sander do it's job and not force it, you will not see the tell tale signs of modern tools! :D I start with 120 or 150 and step up in increments. normaly on 4313B, 4311, 4312, 4343, or l220s and any speaker pre-dating the junkfest I use 150, 180, 220. Now when you get into the pro monitors of recent history I would recommend passing on refinishing. Take a 4412 for instance. The veneer is so paper thin that a novice or pro can go right through the veneer.

4. What brand and color name of stain did you use? I once tried Minwax
"Special Walnut" but it was much too light.

I use Mimwax and other oil stains. I like them as the pigment floats into the pores and conditions the woods. The paste or gel stains can be ok, however I see some clouding when I have used them. To achieve the stain for JBLs I have used provincial and golden oak in a 50-50 mix.

5. It's hard to tell with pictures but how close do you feel you came to the original JBL cabinet finish? The JBL walnut finish is quite dark and very flat with virtually no sheen. Even "Low Sheen" Tung Oil seems to look like varnish in comparison. What did you use on top of the stain?

Top coating is a decision based on tastes. Stain it and make a linseed oil mix if your looking for a close match. JBL used that approach as well as cellulose laquer on later runs. It's whatever you want. I use whatever the customer wants. You can apply a cellulose laquer for instance on a cabinet using a dead flat laquer and hand rubbing and it will look just like an open grain oil finish. There are so many ways to achieve the results you want appearance wise.....so go with the one you feel most comfortable with. :)

Thanks for your help. Your pictures look beautiful. You did a great job!:)
John Lovda

Good luck to you and your project!
Mark

jlovda
01-30-2005, 10:31 AM
Thanks so much for taking the time to write a detailed synopsis of your procedures. I am now eager to begin my February basement workshop project.

Your help has been invaluable.
John Lovda
Canton, OH:) :)

Audiobeer
01-30-2005, 05:24 PM
[QUOTE=jlovda]I would like to ask AudioBeer some questions as I would like to begin a similar project on a pair of L-88P speakers with a DIY midrange upgrade using LE5-8 mids. These speakers have the same front grille frame so I will see if I can get a set of replacement foam grilles.

Try here! Scroll down the the section about speaker grill foam. They don't seem to have the original depression for the woofer but still look great!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=61377&item=5748429078&rd=1

wally44
01-30-2005, 05:42 PM
Audiobeer
Thank you for the comprehensive reply - and for sharing so many of your trade secrets! My L100's are in pretty good shape, but if, and when, I get around to rebuilding some that have been through the mill, your post will really be very very helpful.
Best wishes
Geoff S.

jlovda
01-31-2005, 08:35 AM
AudioBeer made a comment about matching grilles for the L-88P. It is actually my intent to get a set of L-100 blue waffle grilles from the same source as he used. As far as I am concerned, once I put the midrange drivers in, there speakers ARE L-100's. The only unknown at this point is how to reproduce the L-100 thin aluminum front label with the mid/high level controls coming through.

Does anyone know where I can get two midrange L-pad knobs? These are the tiny knows with the screwdriver slots. I have two already from the tweeter L-Pads.

Thanks,
John Lovda

Zilch
01-31-2005, 09:22 AM
Does anyone know where I can get two midrange L-pad knobs? These are the tiny knows with the screwdriver slots.Look through the exploded tech manuals on the JBL Pro site for similars, maybe. 4425 is #52192, for example. Has a slot and a dot. Will that work for you? If so, buy 4 to be sure....

Mr. Widget
01-31-2005, 09:26 AM
The only unknown at this point is how to reproduce the L-100 thin aluminum front label with the mid/high level controls coming through.

Does anyone know where I can get two midrange L-pad knobs? These are the tiny knows with the screwdriver slots. I have two already from the tweeter L-Pads.


The aluminum plates can be recreated, but the process is not inexpensive. L-100 cabinets turn up on eBay that have been parted out fairly regularly. You might be better off refinishing an L-100 cab that already has them on it and has the crossovers mounted..

A while back I was looking for those knobs myself. I managed to get them by buying up crossovers and then harvesting the knobs. JBL used those same knobs on quite a few speakers. I was able to get them for an average of about $5 each plus shipping.

Widget

Rusnzha
05-18-2005, 07:18 PM
I tried to do a search on L100 replacement caps or something close to that and I wound on on a thread about people getting kicked off the forum. I am collecting the parts to rebuild my L100A crossovers. I have 4 50 Watt/8 ohm Lpads from Allied (Parts express was out till August), 4 .01 ufd Kimber polypropolyne caps from Parts Express and 4 5100 pf polystyrene caps purchased locally. The question is - should I replace the existing caps on the crossover and what do you recommend in their place?

Thanks, Russ

4313B
05-19-2005, 03:53 AM
I wonder why those Kimber metallized polys are more expensive than the AudioCap film and foils...

I wonder what it is lately with these expensive metallized dielectrics like Kimber and Auricap... too many damn cap choices these days :rotfl:

Anyway, I'd just install the bypass caps you got and see what you think. The cheapest replacement main caps might be those Carli mylars Madisound sells.

Rusnzha
05-28-2005, 07:41 AM
I finally finished upgrading my L100 crossovers. I used .1 ufd (not .01) Kimber polypropylene caps and 5100 pf polystyrene caps. I got 50 Watt L pads from allied with 3/4" shafts. I used UnDo to lift the foilcals and it worked like a charm. With all of the L100's innaccuracies and their wonderful results, I never considered the L166s or L112s to be upgrades. This was an upgrade! It was a little like listening to them on acid. They had a new clarity, definition and spaciousness. I want to say thanks to all of you answered my questions and shared your knowledge through Lansing Heritage. These old JBLs have even more value because of you.

There was one problem about shaft length. With the Parts Express L pads, they had to be backed off with plexiglass because of the 1" shaft length when you installed them. When I found the 3/4" shafts at allied, I thought I had it made. When I took the speakers apart, it looked like I needed 1" shafts due to the thickness of the cabinet plus the thickness of the board the crossover was on. The end result was that my crossover knobs are recessed 1/4". Obviously, I won't go back to the old L pads, but does anyone have a solution for this one. Are there some extenders or something that I can use to get them flush again? Thanks again -- Russ

Don C
05-28-2005, 08:32 AM
There must be more than one way of measuring the shaft length. I think that Parts Express just gives the length of the threaded portion of the shaft. I don't know how to fix too short, too long was easier.

scott fitlin
05-28-2005, 08:27 PM
There is such a thing as shaft extensions for pots, give this pot company a call!

http://www.state-elec.com/

Ralphh
09-16-2005, 08:48 AM
After reading this thread, I have a question on the crossover updates. What does the .1ufd bypass Cap. do?

Earl K
09-16-2005, 09:10 AM
Hi

Here's a link to a thread specifically designed to answer questions about "Bypassing" & Charge-Coupling ™ . (http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=3555)

Cheers

Ralphh
09-21-2005, 08:31 AM
Thanks for the information, which leads to another question. I have read descriptions of several members modifications to the L100 crossover. What would be the difference in using a .1 or a .01 bypass capacitor? Thank you for your response.

Zilch
09-21-2005, 09:34 AM
They both work.

I believe JBL started out using 0.1 uF, but settled on 0.01 in later designs.

If it's in parallel with a 1.0 uF capacitor, you can see 0.1 uF will shift the value 10%. Not good, unless you want that.

Used with a 20 uF capacitor, it don't matter one whit.... ;)

Ralphh
09-21-2005, 10:14 AM
Thanks for your response.
In reading this entire thread, I didn't find a description by "Audiobeer" of the finish applied to these cabinets. Could you post the steps you did in the refinishing process, and what products you used? The results look wonderfull.

Earl K
09-21-2005, 10:54 AM
Hi :)

Please read : "Dolly Gets a Face Lift" (http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=873&page=1) . AudioBeer explains all of his magic within that thread .
- Please "BookMark" it for future reference .

- ( found with the Search Function (http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbulletin/search.php?) by a senior ) ;) :blink:

:p