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View Full Version : Quick refoam/resurround question - stretch?



HCSGuy
07-15-2009, 05:07 PM
Just got foams from Rick Cobb after providing him with the exact piston diameter of the 12" woofer. My question is should I be stretching the foam to fit the woofer frame? As the picture shows, the foam is almost 3/16" shy of making it all the way to the edge - it seems like a little much to stretch that far, but what are others' experiences?

Robh3606
07-15-2009, 06:06 PM
What woofer is that?? Is it from an L200t ?? As far as the foam if it fits the cone properly you can center it on the frame so you have equal spacing all the way round. You could also shot him an email with the pictures to see what he thinks, he's a good guy he will respond. He may have something with a better fit.

Rob:)

BMWCCA
07-15-2009, 07:06 PM
I wouldn't worry about it. My 127H-1 10" surrounds from Rick looked exactly the same, if not even more of a "gap", but they were exactly like the ones I removed and the gaskets covered the space perfectly. Here is a shot with the old glue removed (if you look carefully you can see the trace of the old surround's position), another with the new surround in-place before gluing, and another of the completed re-surround with Rick's parts on the right (bottom?) and the un-touched original on the left (top!!):

HCSGuy
07-15-2009, 09:47 PM
Woofer is unmarked, but I suspect it to be a 120T3 as it is from L200T3's. The original gaskets went all the way to the frame edge. The foam gaskets that were on the woofers are really thin (1/4"), so they'll barely cover the gap, and I'm trying to hid the bare metal frame where I scraped the glue off. Thanks for the pictures, BMWCCA, how'd you get the frames so pretty - solvent and patience?
-John

boputnam
07-15-2009, 10:36 PM
...should I be stretching the foam to fit the woofer frame? No. I think you're good. I've dealt with worse, and had a fine result. DO NOT "stretch" the surround - merely position it centered (as with the spider).


I wouldn't worry about it. Agreed.

There is probably more than sufficient surface area for the glue. Just "mind the gap" and use only as much glue as needed - no goops.

Realize that resurrounds are a partial (and often terrific) solution.

BMWCCA
07-15-2009, 10:41 PM
. . . how'd you get the frames so pretty - solvent and patience?I used Goo-Gone and a trimmed popsicle stick as a scraper. The first one was easy and the glue softer more like rubber-cement contact glue, but the second one had glue that was much harder, for some reason, and didn't clean up nearly as well. :dont-know

They both went together and sound fine though the cleaner one made for much more impressive photos! ;)

HCSGuy
07-15-2009, 10:48 PM
I like the popsicle stick idea! All I had was a chainsaw and a flamethrower, so I went with the milder of the two. The glue was rock hard, but I'll try Goo-gone or MEK and the popsicle stick on the next one. Which type do you think works best, Eskimo Pie, Twinsicle, or Rocket Pops?:p
Thanks for the advice!
-John

BMWCCA
07-19-2009, 09:59 AM
Which type do you think works best, Eskimo Pie, Twinsicle, or Rocket Pops?:pI am, as everyone here knows, a bottom-feeder. However I abused a trade-mark when I said popsicle and what I actually made my several tools from were the sticks from Kroger "Ice Pix" (no, not from the ice-pick from that other thread) which are currently available in boxes of 24 for around $1.88. That's about 7 a stick, or roughly equal to the Michaels crafts "craft sticks" but I think the Kroger ones are just as good and they come packed individually with a protective coating on the tool. Just be sure to melt and remove all the frozen protective coating from the sticks before trimming them for use on your surround jobs. Keep the remainder frozen until you need them or the protective coating will deteriorate rapidly as it's very sensitive to ambient temperatures below 32F.

I started out using beryllium sticks but they proved too expensive, too brittle, and I never could determine the correct phase of my driver baskets to determine which side of the berylium stick I was supposed to be using. I believe the instructions were in New Zealind English which is way over the head of your average American. So I sold the remainder on Audiogon where folks are much kinder than here when you're selling really good audio gear. I felt bad not using the real sticks from JBL since the glue residue was an authentic JBL part, and I was unable to find the upgraded TAD popsickle sticks in my area. Because of this I'm well aware my L80T will never again reach their full potential, but since I'm totally deaf anyway, and only paid fifty-bucks for them, I don't suppose it matters much and I'm probably going to go wave-guide on them anyway since seeing that cool YouTube video.

I'm really in this just for the status of owning obsolete desk-size speakers to impress my friends when I plug them into their iPod earphone jacks.

;)

boputnam
07-19-2009, 06:05 PM
... how'd you get the frames so pretty - solvent and patience?Er, when one resorts to solvent, it often is because of a lack of patience! :p Or, just practicality...

MEK is your tool of choice, but it is not your friend. Stay ventilated...

louped garouv
07-20-2009, 03:02 PM
I'm really in this just for the status of owning obsolete desk-size speakers to impress my friends when I plug them into their iPod earphone jacks.

;)
:applaud: