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Audiobeer
06-01-2003, 12:44 PM
L-112s as oppossed to L-110s? I'm going to look at a pair tommorrow to replace a pair of L-110s in the shop. Anyone have any experience with the L-112s?

4313B
06-01-2003, 01:24 PM
Yes, I have experience with both models.

Audiobeer
06-01-2003, 01:48 PM
I found the L-110 to be a little boring. I was hoping the L-112 to have a bit more dynamics, Is this the case?

4313B
06-01-2003, 02:20 PM
The L96, L112 and L150A follow the 4313B network design. They use the 044 HF transducer which isn't quite as good as the 066 but is better than the 033.

The L110 used a 6 dB/octave filter like the L150 and L212. It might be that characteristic you find boring as the LE10/LE111 and LE5 aren't, by themselves, inherently boring. A buddy of mine also found the L110, L150 and L212 boring compared with the L96, L112, and L150A ;)

Audiobeer
06-01-2003, 03:13 PM
Ok Now I got your attention, 1 LE10H-1 And a 1 2123H for a LE10H....hows that for less boring!!! LOL

4313B
06-01-2003, 05:58 PM
You want to trade me one LE10H-1 AND one 2123H for one of my LE10H's?

Audiobeer
06-01-2003, 05:59 PM
Yes! I have no need for either but need a good LE1oH!

Audiobeer
06-01-2003, 06:01 PM
If it's a go Email me your shipping address at neoncoke@aol.com and I'll get it going!

GordonW
06-09-2003, 09:09 PM
I will say this- I never found an L112 to be dynamically boring. In fact, there's aspects of it I liked better than the 120Ti (which basically replaced it)... more "snap" in the midbass, in particular.

And I will say, I also liked the L96 better than the L110...

Regards,
Gordon.

Audiobeer
06-09-2003, 09:34 PM
Your right Gordon! I picked up the L-112s last week and have been enjoying them since! They are head and shoulders above the L-110s!!

4313B
06-09-2003, 09:52 PM
"In fact, there's aspects of it I liked better than the 120Ti (which basically replaced it)... more "snap" in the midbass, in particular."

Ah! Very interesting! Basically that was due to the lack of a conjugate on the LF transducer in the L96, L112, and L150A, unlike the 4313B :) (The L96, L112, and L150A use a slightly cheaper version of the 3113/3113B filter)

I personally prefer the conjugate added to the LF filter in the L96, L112, and L150A, which smooths out the midbass a bit :)

To each his own :p

As for the 120Ti, (or any of the Ti Series) the components in that system were significantly more advanced than their predecessors. Gone is the 8 to 10 dB rising response of the LE5 series. Gone are the peaky resonant frequencies characteristic of the previous dome radiators. Individual transducer impedance curves are flatter, etc. The 104H transducers are very nicely damped with much flatter response than the LE5 series. The Ti domes exhibit ruler flat response to 27 kHz and their transient character is superlative.

The XPL Series took things even further with nearly ruler flat impedance curves and extremely smooth frequency response.

4313B
06-09-2003, 09:59 PM
"They are head and shoulders above the L-110s!!"

D'oh!

How do you like the 4313 compared to the L110? :)

boputnam
06-10-2003, 07:35 AM
Ah! Very interesting! Basically that was due to the lack of a conjugate on the LF transducer in the L96, L112, and L150A, unlike the 4313B (The L96, L112, and L150A use a slightly cheaper version of the 3113/3113B filter). I personally prefer the conjugate added to the LF filter in the L96, L112, and L150A, which smooths out the midbass a bit

I'm confused on the use of "conjugate". Are you referring to R1 on the 3113B? And, are you saying you prefer that "a" conjugate be added to the LF filter in the L96, etc., to smooth out the bass? I think I'm lost a bit in the syntax. I think I understand that Giskard prefers the 4313B (thus the smily face?), but that impression may change with my next re-read! ;) Ha!

This might be more obvious to me if I had a bona fide copy of the 3113 - the network labelled 3113 on the JBL website is, on closer inspection, a poor copy of the 3113B (revision A) and is nearly identical to the 3113B.

4313B
06-10-2003, 08:13 AM
Hi Bo,

I wondered when someone would give the 3113/3113B filter a good look. The only difference between the two is a change in resistor values :p.

Rev B was changing R1 from 50 ohms to 51 ohms, R2 from 5 ohms to 5.1 ohms, and R3 from 2.5 ohms to 2.4 ohms ;)

The LF conjugate consists of C1, R1, R2.

Yes, I prefer the conjugate. Actually I prefer the 3113B network in the L96 if truth be known. Mark Gander, Greg Timbers and I had several discussions about this way back in the early 80's. The second best filter is the L110A network (HF conjugate corrected to facilitate using the 044 or 066 instead of that goofy 033 :p). Smokin'! I actually built several networks (using the 4333 biamp switch) that allowed the L96 to switch between the 3113B filter and the N110A filter. Very cool!

boputnam
06-10-2003, 08:34 AM
Hey, Giskard...

I kept looking at the R values and thought the variance too de minimus to be the sole difference between the so-called "3113" and the 3113B - then I noticed in the area "Bill of Material" (engineer's ID and revisions) they are both the 3113B, only different by revisions A and B. My files are working!

I would have loved to have A/B'd that L96 jury-rig. What a cool idea. :cool: What a very cool idea...!

Do you have the L110 and 110A networks handy? I'd like a visual on that HF "correction". :rolleyes:

4313B
06-10-2003, 08:56 AM
The N110A can be modified to use the 066 or the 044 with excellent results. Both are quite a bit better than the cheaper 033 with the 066 having "better" overall frequency response that extends higher while the 044 has lower power compression and greater power handling. Plus, the 044 doesn't have the "18 kHz" anomaly numerous 066's "suffered" from.

The N212 network shows the minute change in the HF conjugate to use the 066. To use the 044 one has to change C5 to 14.0uF.

As an aside, the L110A was the first JBL loudspeaker to employ bypass capacitors.

boputnam
06-10-2003, 09:08 AM
... them networks. I was just looking at them (found the original posting), but it is VERY handy side-by-side with your detailed explanation.

I'm guessing that 18kHz anomaly for the 066's is what makes my Goldens cringe on occasion? (anomaly = spike) :eek:

4313B
06-10-2003, 09:31 AM
"I'm guessing that 18kHz anomaly for the 066's is what makes my Goldens cringe on occasion? (anomaly = spike) :eek: "

Perhaps... You're talking about the 066 in the 4313? A bit too bright? The L166, L212 and 4313 require excellent amplification. The 066 definitely has issues with some amplifiers, it can seem quite strident. The 033 and 044 don't seem to be quite as picky, I don't know why. These are just my observations.

You probably don't have the capacitors in the 4313's bypassed either right? I recently listened to a pair of unbypassed L212's and was actually shocked at how lousy they sounded. Installing bypass caps fixed the situation. It's been quite awhile since I listened to unbypassed JBL's, I'd all but forgotten how lousy they sound. :(

boputnam
06-10-2003, 10:12 AM
The L166, L212 and 4313 require excellent amplification

True, I find.

At the risk of (here I go again...) instigating a severe digression onto amplification preferences, I just migrated from a sizeable Onkyo M-504 165-watt per amp to my QSC CX302's (200 watts per), and the improvement was palpable. The Onkyo clearly lacked low-end, and the high-end was simply not as brilliant (although the specs sure did not reveal it). Nothing else in the rig was altered. The improvement in reproduction and imaging is simply stunner. Icy clear.

And no, the caps in the 3113B's are not (yet) bypassed, but we're working on it... ;)

4313B
06-10-2003, 10:16 AM
Schematic showing bypass cap locations in red:

Try AudioCap PPT Theta's from Parts Express and let us know what you think...

boputnam
06-10-2003, 11:01 AM
Absolutley - full report to follow.

Well, I guessed it kinda, sorta right (a bold-faced lie... :p ).

So, now give this "Bypass Newby" the theory? The cap is a high-pass filter, right? So by adding a bypass cap of low value will it reduce the roll-off to the MF (and likewise to the HF)? :confused:

Maybe I shouldn't even be guessing here...

OH - and REALLY slick with the colored cut/paste stuff, Dr. Giskard! Impressive (and helpful!).

boputnam
06-10-2003, 03:18 PM
Without any input (I know, a bad joke...), I am now wondering whether the bypass cap actually increases the roll-off(s), improving clarity. Maybe it's neither... :confused:

What is confusing me is these are in || and not in series.

Point me to something to read...?:(

I Googled this, which is tantalizing and intuitively sensible. I cannot vouch for it's integrity, but Kevin Ross has never lied to me before... ;) http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/jun97/basics.html

Most compelling is: To summarize, the bypass capacitor is used to dampen the AC component of your DC circuits. By installing bypass capacitors, your DC circuit will not be as susceptable to ripple currents and voltages.

From Kevin Ross:

4313B
06-10-2003, 03:59 PM
I've posted so much about bypass capacitors it makes me sick to think about it :p

You can read about them throughout the JBL library on this site.

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/catalogs/1982-home/page03.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1982-l250-b460/page03.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1984-ti/page06.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1985-everest/page07.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1989-xpl/page13.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/pro-speakers/1986-4312a/page3.jpg

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/pro-speakers/1986-4400-series/page3.jpg

boputnam
06-10-2003, 07:14 PM
Doh! My apologies, my (ex..) friend. :(

But, I apologized up-in-the-front for being a Newby. And, I admit to watching (some of...) this go by long ago, and thought it not relevant.

"As I learn, I find I am increasingly ignorant..." - surely some luminary other than me said this first!

Thanks, heaps for compiling all the Links! In an unintentional way, this vets my suggestion to DonMcR on Forum structure over the week-end. Oh well...

Off I go (but at dialup speed - DSL has crapped-out big time...) :mad:

GordonW
06-10-2003, 08:50 PM
Thought I should add... just for the record, IMHO, the 120Ti is probably a better OVERALL speaker than the L112, due to the more neutral sounding upper midrange and highs. In fact, the ONLY speaker in the whole Ti line that I thought was a little bit "compromised", was the 240Ti, with it crossing the 104H right into the LE15... the lower mids were just a range that neither of those drivers seemed to want to do much with, IME. The 250Ti, with the 8" midbass, neatly solved THAT problem posthaste!!

However, that said, I'd like to see a mod on a 120TI, using a 104H-2 or -3 in there (paper cone), with whatever crossover tweaks would be advantageous to match it in with the system. To me, while the poly material used by JBL is head-and-shoulders better than that used by say, Dynaudio or Vifa drivers, it still doesn't have that "effortless lower mid snap" of a good felted paper driver, IMHO...

This brings up an idea, that I've been harboring in the back of my head for years... the "Super 250Ti". Say, a 2235 woofer, a 2118 or 2123 midbass, a 104H-2 (or in lieu of that, a Polydax/Audax 12P25 or PR17, ala GoldSound), and either the Ti dome or a 2404. Man, that with a 2404, with an appropriate crossover, could be deadly... :)

Regards,
Gordon.
who likes his midbass/lower mid transient attack behaviour set at KILL level... :-)

4313B
06-11-2003, 06:06 AM
Well yeah, the 120Ti is definitely a "better" loudspeaker than the L112, but that doesn't mean everyone will like it better. The landscape is littered with "better" stuff that fell by the wayside for whatever reason. I know more than one person who'd take an old L100 over a 120Ti any day.

As for the 240Ti, it's all filter related. Each of the transducers are more than up to the task. It certainly isn't as "lacking" as say the old Athena S99 :p I happen to like it whereas my buddy wasn't inspired by it at all. I did build an L96/L112-type system that used the LE14H instead to compare against the 240Ti and it ended up kinda like the 120Ti versus the L112, both had their merits. It was just for fun because I had a bunch of drivers laying about but some woman ended up buying the pair because she thought they were great. Who'd a thunk it!

You can try a 104H-2/104H-3 in place of the 104H and see if you prefer it. They are all electrically similar with the 104H-2/104H-3 having slightly flatter response and the 104H having slightly lower distortion.

"who likes his midbass/lower mid transient attack behaviour set at KILL level"

Yeah well, I think everyone here knows by now what a fan I am of the 112/2108/2121/2122/2123/2202 transducers so I won't go on about them yet again :)

4313B
06-11-2003, 08:11 AM
Originally posted by boputnam
Doh! My apologies, my (ex..) friend. :(

But, I apologized up-in-the-front for being a Newby. And, I admit to watching (some of...) this go by long ago, and thought it not relevant.

"As I learn, I find I am increasingly ignorant..." - surely some luminary other than me said this first!

Thanks, heaps for compiling all the Links! In an unintentional way, this vets my suggestion to DonMcR on Forum structure over the week-end. Oh well...

Off I go (but at dialup speed - DSL has crapped-out big time...) :mad:

Huh? Sorry if you feel I brushed you off. Perhaps it's because I get lazy? Anyway, here is my take on bypass caps:

From an acoustic point of view mylars to me sound very smooth and warm but they seem to lack excellent high frequency response. By bypassing them with polypropylene one gains the benefits of polypropylene's excellent high frequency characteristics and transient characteristics. By bypassing with polystyrene one gains the benefits of excellent high frequency characterisitics, depth and openness. By itself polystyrene can appear too laid back and lacking in transients. By itself polypropylene can seem too up front and strident. Mixing these dielectrics, as was done in the L250, 250Ti, and XPL200/XPL200A, seems to yield the best overall presentation.

From a cost/size point of view mylars are usually quite cost effective and they usually come in a smaller package than a poly.

Now here is something quite interesting:

"Do not use bypass capacitors in the signal path. A single capacitor for DC blocking/AC coupling creates a simple path with one time constant. The signal quality will be compromised if a bypass or multiple bypass capacitors are added to a signal path capacitor. Bypass capacitors were used in the past to bypass low quality film capacitors or electrolytic capacitors. The bypass was the lesser of two evils. With the advent of better quality film capacitors the need for a bypass capacitor was eliminated. Bypass capacitors create multiple signal paths with multiple time constants. These time constants are very short but they can still be heard as a smear or overall loss of focus."

I've discussed this with G.T. and in theory this is true. Unfortunately in practice it takes one helluva capacitor to live up to the task. Hovlands, Jensens, etc., they all claim to be "the one". They are all excellent, excellent capacitors but they are also all different in their sonic signatures. Given time and money, lots of money, one could sort out which of these "super caps" sounds best with which JBL loudspeaker system.

Let's take a 5234A with it's 100 uF NPE output caps. I can't imagine swapping it out for a film and foil poly cap. Primarily because it wouldn't fit in the chassis, secondarily because a 100 uF film and foil would cost damn near the same as the whole 5234A!. Solution? Pop in a very nice film and foil bypass cap and enjoy the result. The 5235 did just that. I challenge anyone to take a 5234A and a 5235 and listen for any smearing or loss of focus going on with the 5235 because bypass caps were employed. For that matter, I challenge anyone to take two pair of L250's, one pair without bypass caps, and one pair left stock, and A/B them with the hope of detecting smearing or loss of focus. Ain't gonna happen. And JBL transducers don't lie, they are extremely verbatim.

From a theoretical point of view, highly linear bypass capacitors (poly and teflon are extremely linear) help reduce the non-linearity (time lag aka hysterisis, dielectric absorbtion) found in larger, less expensive capacitors such as NPE's and mylars. Doing this helps reduce distortion and improve transient character. Biasing, or charge coupling, is an extension of this, helping to further reduce distortion.

I wish I could still find a couple of decent websites on dielectrics and bypass caps but I can't seem to any longer. :( There used to be a few.

boputnam
06-11-2003, 09:18 AM
Thanks. I've re-researched all your posts and couldn't find much, per se, on the theory, so I 'preciate the post.

"Do not use bypass capacitors in the signal path."

I found that, too. Makes sense, but what surprised me was the effect is reportedly "audible". :( I was thinking the slight difference in time constant might not be as audible as was the improved HF response - i.e., the improvements mask the "noise". Maybe the effect is more audible in lower frequencies? I can't know.

I'd be real interested in seeing a response curve w/wo the bypass caps - I'm curious what is done, if anything, to the crossover slopes. Maybe there is no change...? :confused:

And, I'm mystified about caps in || versus series. My brain cannot cipher what them little electrons make of it all...

I know a few techs out there - I'll see what I can gather-up on this.

4313B
06-11-2003, 10:49 AM
"Thanks. I've re-researched all your posts and couldn't find much, per se, on the theory, so I 'preciate the post."

Probably lost in the previous forums.

"I found that, too. Makes sense, but what surprised me was the effect is reportedly "audible". I was thinking the slight difference in time constant might not be as audible as was the improved HF response - i.e., the improvements mask the "noise". Maybe the effect is more audible in lower frequencies? I can't know."

I think one would have to compare the best of the "super" caps, bypassed and unbypassed, to come to any conclusion. When I think of doing all "super" caps in a 250Ti I cringe. It would cost over a thousand of dollars (why would one do the "super" caps and not the "super" coils as well). A better bet would perhaps be to do a partial and then biamp or triamp. Passive networks are just too goofy to spend such an enormous amount of money on. I'd rather put "super" caps as bypass caps into active gear where it makes a whole lot more sense and is significantly more cost effective. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong. JBL still sticks with poly bypassed mylar and NPE, even in their high priced systems, and they sound extremely fine.

"I'd be real interested in seeing a response curve w/wo the bypass caps - I'm curious what is done, if anything, to the crossover slopes. Maybe there is no change...? :confused:"

No change, you're talking adding a 0.01 uF to say a 4.0 uF which yields a 4.01 uF, the caps themselves vary more than that.

boputnam
06-12-2003, 12:57 PM
from a PhD Physicist friend, and acoustician:

High-value caps are built in such a way that they have parasitic series inductance (and resistance too) that becomes "important" at high frequencies. These elements isolate the capacitor from the rest of the circuit at high frequencies, so the capacitor can't either filter or pass current as it is expected to do. Smaller-value caps have simpler structures and remain effective caps at higher frequencies. So putting a little HF cap in parallel with a big LF cap extends its usefulness to higher frequencies.

More as it comes in.

4313B
09-01-2003, 06:58 AM
Originally posted by Audiobeer
Your right Gordon! I picked up the L-112s last week and have been enjoying them since! They are head and shoulders above the L-110s!!

Are these them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3044515392&category=14993

Why are you selling them? L300 fund? :)

Audiobeer
09-01-2003, 11:51 AM
Yes they are! I'm selling off monitors to get the L-300s. Got to stay out of the Dog House if you know what I mean!:confused:

4313B
09-01-2003, 11:57 AM
Understood :(

But the L300's should be worth it :)

I posted the EDS on the L300/4333 in another thread somewhere. Did you see it?

Audiobeer
09-01-2003, 12:01 PM
No, But I'll look for it. Thanks a lot! I have to put some surrounds on the L-300s. Are you up for it. I won't get them for weeks. Have to schedule a road trip.

4313B
09-01-2003, 12:04 PM
Well, I'd go with you if I wasn't so far north of you :(

Audiobeer
09-01-2003, 12:08 PM
Love to have to company.....I'm good for two hours then I start doing that head wobble deal. Actualy I was talking about doing the surrounds on the Woofers.

4313B
09-01-2003, 12:11 PM
Oh. No, I don't do surrounds, just full recones, sorry :(

I have two brand new 2235H kits though.

BTW, I finally got a single LE10 basket in... figures eh?

Audiobeer
09-01-2003, 12:15 PM
Originally posted by Giskard
Oh. No, I don't do surrounds, just full recones, sorry :(

I have two brand new 2235H kits though.

BTW, I finally got a single LE10 basket in... figures eh?

That's my luck. I found one also on the net reconed for $200. Ouch! These babies are more valuable parted out! :banghead:

HorizonMike
05-05-2017, 12:22 PM
Hello all, this is my first time posting on the forums I am here to just get an idea on what to do to improve my l166 Horizons left mid-range. on the left channel does not work I've tried cleaning the l-pad I even took the cap off (which hurt me inside) I'm about to put the right channel mid-range into the left to see if I just bought a bad midrange off eBay (don't have a volt meter). I got this pair of l166's as a gift, gifted to me by my future father-in-law for Christmas the left mid-range stopped working some time ago I'm not entirely sure if it was even working when I got them, my memory is failing me but his son had replaced the woofers with JBL loud car woofers so I bought some 128h Wilfred off of eBay and put those in. It's a night-and-day difference, but Im curious as to whether or not the 122a wolfers are better.(or how they differ from the 122a's) I'm not necessarily looking for an all-original build but if I could use all original JBL parts from back in that time period to make the best floor standing speakers to my ears, that would be wonderful. Any response is greatly appreciated. I also am wondering if the le5 - 5 out of the gerbils would be an upgrade in the sense of sound for the mid-range. Sorry if I am bringing pain to the Grandmasters who like them all original. I'm just trying to figure out what I like. Thanks again everyone:)
,Mike
Oh and I'm reply to this thread because everyone here seems to know what's up and you guys were talking about the le5 series.

Audiobeer
05-05-2017, 12:36 PM
Hello all, this is my first time posting on the forums I am here to just get an idea on what to do to improve my l166 Horizons left mid-range. on the left channel does not work I've tried cleaning the l-pad I even took the cap off (which hurt me inside) I'm about to put the right channel mid-range into the left to see if I just bought a bad midrange off eBay (don't have a volt meter). I got this pair of l166's as a gift, gifted to me by my future father-in-law for Christmas the left mid-range stopped working some time ago I'm not entirely sure if it was even working when I got them, my memory is failing me but his son had replaced the woofers with JBL loud car woofers so I bought some 128h Wilfred off of eBay and put those in. It's a night-and-day difference, but Im curious as to whether or not the 122a wolfers are better.(or how they differ from the 122a's) I'm not necessarily looking for an all-original build but if I could use all original JBL parts from back in that time period to make the best floor standing speakers to my ears, that would be wonderful. Any response is greatly appreciated. I also am wondering if the le5 - 5 out of the gerbils would be an upgrade in the sense of sound for the mid-range. Sorry if I am bringing pain to the Grandmasters who like them all original. I'm just trying to figure out what I like. Thanks again everyone:)
,Mike
Oh and I'm reply to this thread because everyone here seems to know what's up and you guys were talking about the le5 series.
Did you try swapping the mids 1st?

Tony Sullivan
05-05-2017, 12:56 PM
Hello all, this is my first time posting on the forums I am here to just get an idea on what to do to improve my l166 Horizons left mid-range. on the left channel does not work I've tried cleaning the l-pad I even took the cap off (which hurt me inside) I'm about to put the right channel mid-range into the left to see if I just bought a bad midrange off eBay (don't have a volt meter). I got this pair of l166's as a gift, gifted to me by my future father-in-law for Christmas the left mid-range stopped working some time ago I'm not entirely sure if it was even working when I got them, my memory is failing me but his son had replaced the woofers with JBL loud car woofers so I bought some 128h Wilfred off of eBay and put those in. It's a night-and-day difference, but Im curious as to whether or not the 122a wolfers are better.(or how they differ from the 122a's) I'm not necessarily looking for an all-original build but if I could use all original JBL parts from back in that time period to make the best floor standing speakers to my ears, that would be wonderful. Any response is greatly appreciated. I also am wondering if the le5 - 5 out of the gerbils would be an upgrade in the sense of sound for the mid-range. Sorry if I am bringing pain to the Grandmasters who like them all original. I'm just trying to figure out what I like. Thanks again everyone:)
,Mike
Oh and I'm reply to this thread because everyone here seems to know what's up and you guys were talking about the le5 series.
LE5-6 - LE5-8 - LE5-10 and LE5-12 are all correct for the L166
Only the frame colors will be different - some silver, some black and maybe the terminals
I don't have one of each all in front of me right now

Tony Sullivan
05-05-2017, 01:17 PM
Did you try swapping the mids 1st?
You were correct with your suggestion - he tried your advice
He has an open circuit
I PMed him the schematic
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/L166%20ts.pdf
He just replied back-looks like a fried resister
I love a happy ending

HorizonMike
05-05-2017, 02:09 PM
76820

I don't have a picture of the crack right now I apologize, but it is the white one.

HorizonMike
05-05-2017, 02:17 PM
LE5-6 - LE5-8 - LE5-10 and LE5-12 are all correct for the L166
Only the frame colors will be different - some silver, some black and maybe the terminals
I don't have one of each all in front of me right now

I found a thread with the spec sheets for all of the le5 series midranges and if I know how to read it at all the le5-5's were more impressive"

Tony Sullivan
05-05-2017, 02:49 PM
I found a thread with the spec sheets for all of the le5 series midranges and if I know how to read it at all the le5-5's were more impressive"
I don't know what "impressive" means
The LE5-5 uses the inverted paper dome versus the aluminum type
Sensitivity and voice coil differences too
The ones in my list are electrically identical-in other words drop in replacements for the LE5-8
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?5706-The-LE5-Matrix
Will an LE5-5 fill the hole and work? Sure, but you're losing me now as to why this is an issue, at least why it's an issue for you until you get both boxes working
JBL speakers are, were, designed as systems
I'd fix the obvious open circuit issue first-play and make sure your speakers are sound-and then go from there before I started worrying about rolling different transducers

Tony Sullivan
05-05-2017, 03:30 PM
Sorry for the massive resurrection thread crap
I had not noticed this guy had already started another thread asking exactly the same question
Got a PM thread going too - a real trifecta
My bad, no eyez on this one - guess my Tupac's a little too loud!
Guess 39 thru 45 of this 14 year old thread could be moved here?
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?39697-JBL-L166-horizon-rebuild-help&p=405239#post405239
Sorry

LRBacon
05-13-2017, 08:42 AM
I found a thread with the spec sheets for all of the le5 series midranges and if I know how to read it at all the le5-5's were more impressive"

It may look more impressive on paper but the L166 network is designed for the LE5-8 (LE5-6, LE5-10, LE5-12) midrange. From looking at the network schematic, it looks like your problem is the 4 ohm 10 watt resistor. If you can't find a 4 ohm, you could use two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel to replace the one bad one. I did have several 8 ohm high wattage resistors laying around which you could have if I can find them.

Larry

Tony Sullivan
05-15-2017, 08:57 AM
HorizonMike (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?23199-HorizonMike) got his solution a week ago and is long gone. He was hoping for a no money fix and he got it-I know, we exchanged a few PMs and I offered hm a driver if it came to that

It may look more impressive on paper but the L166 network is designed for the LE5-8 (LE5-6, LE5-10, LE5-12) midrange. From looking at the network schematic, it looks like your problem is the 4 ohm 10 watt resistor. If you can't find a 4 ohm, you could use two 8 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel to replace the one bad one. I did have several 8 ohm high wattage resistors laying around which you could have if I can find them.

Larry
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?39697-JBL-L166-horizon-rebuild-help&p=405486#post405486
Guess it's keep 'em all alive indefinitely
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?39703-122A-VS-128H-WOOFER-comparison&p=405368&highlight=#post405368


HorizonMike, any of the following would work in the L166: LE5-6, LE5-8, LE5-10 or LE5-12. LE5-8 and LE5-12 have the bright brushed aluminum frame. I may have a spare LE5-10, it may not be perfect but it should work. I work in Lacey or Tumwater, so I am in your neck of the woods usually 4 days a week.

Larry