2235, 2241 or 2245 for subwoofer?

[baldrick]

Since I can't find a pair of sub1500 I need to do something else.

What would be the best solution for a sub which is going to be used mainly for movies but also music, togheter with a pair of 250ti:

- 2 pairs of 2235
- 1 pair of 2241
- 1 pair of 2245

The pair of 2241 is by far the cheapest, but will it be any good for my use since I want it mainly for movies?

The pair of 2245 will be the most expensive solution since I need to recone them.

Whatever i choose, it will probably be powered by a QSC MX3000/JBL MPX1200 (2x1200 @ 4 ohm)

[Robh3606]

I would go with the 2245. I use a B380 so a 2235 for my LFE and I am quite happy with it in my room. I can't do a B460/2245 because I don't have the available room. For max power handling the 2241 would be the choice.

Do a search I think there is a comparison thread with the 2245 and 2241

So you run the L250ti as fullrange and the sub for LFE?? How big is your room??

Rob:)

[boputnam]

I would go with the 2245. +1

My only reaction other than that, is, it is a waste to only dedicate VLF to the 2245H. It has amazing tonality in the "upper registers" of it's range capability - the 4345 / 3145 network takes it to 290Hz - which I think a real loss to not experience. But, as Rob sez, it makes one hella unequaled sub.

[baldrick]

I would go with the 2245. I use a B380 so a 2235 for my LFE and I am quite happy with it in my room. I can't do a B460/2245 because I don't have the available room. For max power handling the 2241 would be the choice.

Do a search I think there is a comparison thread with the 2245 and 2241

So you run the L250ti as fullrange and the sub for LFE?? How big is your room??

Rob:)

Yes, I run the 250ti fullrange and the sub is used mainly for movies, but can also be used with music of course. I love the sound of the 250s but when it comes to movies, they are not quite capable of what I want. Present I use a modified SVS sub with 2x12", but I'm about to replace that with something else, and that's why I started this thread :)

The 2241 is no longer an option since it's sold, but 2x2245 and 4x2235 is hopefully still available :)

[Mr. Widget]

I'll also vote for the 2245s... especially since your other posted option requires a similarly gargantuan volume. That said they will both work very well.


Widget

[4313B]

I thought everyone determined that the W15GTi was the go-to driver for subwoofers... :blink:

[Mr. Widget]

I thought everyone determined that the W15GTi was the go-to driver for subwoofers... :blink:Watch what you post. Some people might think you're serious... then where would your credibility be?


Widget

[4313B]

Watch what you post. Some people might think you're serious... then where would your credibility be?Credibility isn't required here.

[Mr. Widget]

Credibility isn't required here.Touché.


Personally I prefer incredibility. As in speakers with 0% distortion and a response of DC to light. :D


Widget

[pos]

The 2241 is no longer an option since it's sold, but 2x2245 and 4x2235 is hopefully still available :)

4x2235 would have the advantage of the multiple subwoofers sources, which is always a good thing to fight room modes. But then of course you have to build 4 independant cabinets and place them in the room as per Todd Welti's early recommendations (http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf) if you have a perfectly rectangular room, or using Earl Geddes' approach (http://www.mehlau.net/audio/multisub_geddes/).

JBL also makes a device that makes it easier to setup (http://www.jbl.com/home/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BASSQ&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA&cat=EQU&ser=PER), even if I don't think it does implement the new SFM appoach by Todd Welti (http://www.aes.org/tmpFiles/elib/20090306/13680.pdf).

Here are some more discussions about this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134568&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
There are some posts by Todd Welti -cap'n todd- toward the end of the thread!

And if it comes cheaper to you than 2x2245 it is even an easier choice.

[baldrick]

The room is "perfectly rectangular" so that could be an option even though the original plan was only 1 or 2 cabinetts. But if I use 4 differnt positions, I guess I might would need 4 seperate channels on the amps so I could get them proper into phase?

But anyway, a new option just came up, I might be able to get a pair of brand new W1500h. The price is about the same as 2x2245 or 4x2235, so maybe this is the best solution for me?

[Allanvh5150]

Perfectly rectangular?:blink:

[baldrick]

I'm not sure if pos meant the same as me, but what I meant is a straight forward rectangular room with aprox 2:3 format :)

[Allanvh5150]

I can't see why everyone thinks about sub bass so much. Put a big sub in the front and one in the back, drive them with a heap of power, I don't mean namby pamby power I am talking around 2Kw of real power, then you won't have a problem with anything! Period!

Maybe only problems with the neighbours.:D

[baldrick]

I doesn't help with big woofers if they have no output where it's needed :)

The amp (http://www.jblpro.com/pages/electronics/mpxamps.htm)i'm planning to use is rated to 3,2kw @ 4 ohm so power will hopefully not be a problem, but even several kw will not make the wrong woofer play loud enought @ 20-30 hz which is needed for movie use :)

If I should only use this for music, it would have been much easier.

[Allanvh5150]

In my experience there is no such thing as the wrong woofer. You obviously need to use a driver that was designed for the purpose. What sort of amp will you be using?

Allan.

[pos]

In a typical room the problem with LF is more the room than the subs woofers themselves.
By placing multiple subs in a room you can smooth the LF response in a larger sweet spot than with only one sub. Plus with multi subs you do not need as much power a with one sub:
200W in two woofers (100W each) will give you the same sound level as 400W in only one of these woofers (mutual coupling).

[Mr. Widget]

In my experience there is no such thing as the wrong woofer.Then why are you on this forum? Most of us are here because we know JBL and Altec make or have made superior devices. Beyond that they have produced quite a few models for all sorts of applications. "No wrong woofer"???

pos does bring up a very good point about using four woofers... though two W1500Hs in the right locations would be my first choice... especially since they will work best in much smaller cabinets than the other suggestions.


Widget

[4313B]

two W1500Hs in the right locations would be my first choice... especially since they will work best in much smaller cabinets than the other suggestions.:yes: If you can get them they are pretty killer.

The forum should just put an order for 25 in and call it done.

[Allanvh5150]

Then why are you on this forum? Most of us are here because we know JBL and Altec make or have made superior devices. Beyond that they have produced quite a few models for all sorts of applications. "No wrong woofer"???

Widget

Hi Widget,

I think you misstook what I said. When I said there is no wrong woofer I was meaning that if you have a specific project you would select the speaker approriately. If you are building a cabinet to run down to 25Hz you would hardly select a 2225 or 2118. Select the speaker for the application on the recomendation of the manufacturer. JBL only make a handfull of drivers for subwoofer applications. Selection is usually based on availability, price, personal preference etc. Some prefer auto subs, I myself prefer 2235 2245 types while others like the more exotic 1500's. I use 4 2235's in pairs in 270L cabinets. Size is not a problem because they are buried in the wall/ceiling. (pics forthcoming) Frequency response is great and there are no dead spots in the room at all.

Allan.

[matsj]

Group buy on W1500h ? Is 25 woofers minimum ?

mats

[Mr. Widget]

I think you misstook what I said.Hmmm.

That must have been it.

Widget

[4313B]

Group buy on W1500h ? Is 25 woofers minimum ?

matsThe problem with buying any loudspeaker component from JBL Consumer is that it is considered a part and not a finished good. The short explanation is that none of the JBL Consumer loudspeaker components come with the well known five year warranty, they only have a ninety day parts warranty. Some people don't care about that and just want the driver.

I would imagine that 20 to 25 is the kind of number that gets something done. Otherwise one has to wait until JBL happens to run a few extra during a production run of some finished good product that the driver is used in.

JBL Consumer left the loudspeaker component business back in the mid-eighties and that is why it has long been difficult to get just the loudspeaker components. They really don't support DIY anymore.

[timc]

What would the price be with such a quantity?


-Tim

[4313B]

What would the price be with such a quantity?


-TimMSRP is currently $499 each. I believe three forum members bought the last six that were in stock. I know that one was purchased two years ago and it took JBL roughly eighteen months to get five more into the parts queue.

[baldrick]

I just ordered a pair of 2240/2245. The 2240 is in good condition and the 2245 is broken.

I will probably recone them to 2245, it's kind of expensive to recone them in Norway, so I'm considering buying a recone kit and do it myself, but I've never done it before so I'm not sure wheter it's an good idea :)

[robertbartsch]

Since JBL re-cone kits are only sold to professional reconers it would not be a good idea to recone them yourself since (i) you would have to use a non-JBL kit, and (ii) you are not an experienced technition.

Trust me on this one; use a OEM kit and have it installed by a professional.

[Loren42]

I would definitely not use 2235 because I may be on the hunt for two and I don't want you sucking up all my oxygen. :D

[baldrick]

Since JBL re-cone kits are only sold to professional reconers it would not be a good idea to recone them yourself since (i) you would have to use a non-JBL kit, and (ii) you are not an experienced technition.

Trust me on this one; use a OEM kit and have it installed by a professional.

This is not correct, maybe it's the oficial policy but anyone can get OEM kits. I can order a pair of OEM C8R2245H for $400, if I buy an aftermarket non JBL kit, the price is less than $200 from the same seller.

But anyway, I will in fact be sending them to pros who will be useing the org C8R2245H :)