Best way to clean/oil my cabinets??

[wsilva]

I think my L-250 and 240ti cabinets are in a serious need for some TLC (cabinets are in good shape, just never cleaned properly or oiled) I have no experiance with what methods and products are the best way to do this. I tried to do a search for old posts on this but didnt find to much, so please everyone chime in and give me your recomendations. I really would like to hear everyones tips and preferences.

[Steve]

Aloha
What I have used for the last few years is a product called Feed-N-Wax by Howard..
Got it at a local Home Depot or Lowes.
It works well.
I have tried many different treatments over the years and this I have found works good. I re-apply it about every year or so.
BTW...I am by no means an expert at this.

I know my wife notices the difference when I polish the cabs up.
Sure made a pair of dull drab 4310 cabs a night and day difference.

Steve

[HenryW]

I clean unfinished wood with water (a little bit is all) and fine steel wool with a denatured alcohol final cleaning. I then stain, fine sand (repeat for whatever depth of color you want) then finish with tung oil, linseed oil or maybe a wax (speakers generally don't serve as a table or high use furniture so i don't go with hard coat finishes).

If the wood is finished and needs a wax and grime removal I go with an orange oil based product (most I have found work decently) If elbow grease is needed I use very fine steel wool. Then a hand polished waxing is my favorite.

If this a ground zero refinish I recommend using a stain that deepens to the color you want after 3 or so coats - In my experience this couple of days on the front side ends up with a color on the wood that seems three dimensional. It is hard to describe, but it seems to add depth.

IMHO only and definitely biased...

[Tom Loizeaux]

I suggest wiping the cabinets down with a clean, damp cloth. When they are completely dry, apply a thin application of tung-oil. The tung-oil will soak in and revitalize the wood. A second application will increase the shine. I apply tung-oil to all my walnet speaker cabinets and they look fantastic.

Tom

[grumpy]

Anyone else still use WATCO Danish Oil for
furniture (aka speaker cabinets) finishing/
refinishing? I've used it on several projects
and have always been happy when that
was the finish type I was going for.

-grumpy

[jims]

If you want to preserve the original look of the teak cabinets, don't use wax or a hardening oil like tung oil. I use Scott's Liquid Gold or Old English. They're about equal but I think Scott's smells better and we do want pleasant smelling speakers. Find the pour top bottle, not the aerosol. wipe on with a soft cloth, let set for 15-20 minutes and wipe off with a towel. Increases the depth of the wood grain without excessive shine. If you haven't done this in a while, you'll be suprised how much dirt come off on the cloth.

[RedZCar]

The literature that came with my Lancer 101s, B380, and 240Tis sez that for hand rubbed oiled finishes (like the 240Ti), use a solution of 3 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part pure gum turpentine. I strongly recommend that you do not use any kind of wax or "polish" as it will clog the pores and dull the finish over time and will prevent the linseed oil solution from penetrating the surface. Wax or polish may look great when you first apply it, but it will not come close to the beauty revealed by the linseed oil solution. Further, I think the Liquid Gold/Old English products contain coloring of some kind so I would hesitate to use them. Finally, I would not use a scented product, don't really know what the "scent" chemical is.

First, remove any dirt or other substance. If you use a damp cloth on a dried out surface, it may raise the grain and cause snagging during the buffing process (next paragraph). If you find it necessary to use a damp cloth on a very dried out surface, after letting the surface dry, I would go over it lightly with 4-0 steel wool. JBL sez you can use 4-0 steel wool to remove small/shallow scratches. I've also found 4-0 steel wool helpfull to remove buildup of the linseed oil solution whenever I failed to thoroughly remove the excess from the previous application.

Apply the solution liberally to the finish (about the same amount as though applying sun tan lotion) and let stand for a few minutes (depends on how dried out the finish is), then rub off the excess with a clean dry cloth (terry cloth tends to snag the grain, try diapers). Buff thoroughly. Repeat periodically until your obtain a patina. I guarantee you will be surprised at the results.

Now linseed oil isn't the prettiest smelling substance, but the smell isn't awful either and it is mild and only last a few days.

After applying this solution say every six months for a couple of years, you only need to make a light application once every year or so thereafter.

Remember, the JBL furniture grade finishes of yesteryear are really higher in quality in both materials and execution than even most fine furniture. My Lancer 101s are as beautiful today as when I bought them in 1972.

[RedZCar]

According to Watco, Danish Oil comes in eight different tints and is intended as a one-step finishing solution for unfinished wood and will give a "hand rubbed oiled finish without any of the work."

I'm not sure this is the correct product for your 240Tis unless you want to take the chance of darkening the wood. Me, I'm always leary of a one-step-does-all product that claims to eliminate "all the work." Betcha this has some sealers or wax in it. You pays your money and you takes your chances.

[Jakob]

My 250 ti:s previous owner had a bad habit: smoking. The smell in the room they stand in has gotten really bad. The smell in the speakers pollute the air. I will try to get rid of it by cleaning and re-oiling the cabinets, 'bout the grills I don't know what to do, any ideas?
The cabinetts seems to be waxed, what do I use to get rid of it? Can I use very fine sandpaper instead of steelwool for the finishing, something like 800 or 1200 grain?

B.R: Jakob

[RedZCar]

The linseed oil / turpentine solution will remove the wax. Replace the grill cloth. Suitable grill cloth is available. Try Parts Express or maybe even Radio Shack. Alternatively, Marvin's Electronics in Fort Worth has a good selection of replacement grill cloth.

[Don C]

I have been using Old English lemon oil on mine.

[Jakob]

Excuse my bad english, but what is "gum turpentine"? Is it just ordinary turpentine or is there several different kinds? And what does it do in the mix? Can you go with just linseed oil or is that a bad idea?

thanks: Jakob

[jandregg]

Turpentine is to thin the boiled linseed oil. Mineral spirits will also work. Use only boiled linseed oil as the raw oil will not dry.

John

[jandregg]

Turpentine is to thin the boiled linseed oil. Mineral spirits will also work. Use only boiled linseed oil as the raw oil will not dry.

John

[Tom Loizeaux]

I use tung-oil because I want to put a luster on the walnut and help seal it from moisture and harden the surface a little. If you want to treat the walnut, and maybe darken it slightly, linseed oil and turpentine is the right stuff. I will agree that if you want to keep the walnut looking as if it was in original condition and unsealed, that Old English, or lemon oil will do this well.

Tom

[jblnut]

I took a tip from my sister who is has done a lot of custom woodworking and sculpture. I bought some walnut oil at a cooking store (you have to keep in in the fridge after you open it)
and that's what I use on all my JBL with a natural finish (4410 and L250). It looks great, smells great, and the wood really seems to soak it up. Seems logical that walnut veneer would like walnut oil....

jblnut