Altec 19 help

[ProudTexan]

Hi folks, first post. So its only fitting to say HI.
I am looking for help on a pair of 19's that I was going to purchase but we hit a bump in the road. We hooked them up only to find out neither of the horns would work. The woofers seemed to work fine. We took the horns out and looked, but neither of us really knew what we were looking at/ for.

All the wires appeared to be still in place, and we didnt see anything that really just screamed the problem. I took pictures of the crossovers and the horns, and maybe the woofs (I stuck camera in there and just took pics, hopefully they came out).

One thing I noticed that may or not be a red flag was the screw holding the binding posts to the horn. It has a star shaped head on the screw. My first thought was that cant be original as I didnt think they used those kind of screws. I may be wrong, I dunno.

I can look at the pics (or post if I knew how) and post the numbers off the guts of the X overs. The horn also had a paper sticker on it with numbers. I just dont know what numbers are significant. Can anyone tell me what numbers to look for to see if these are original?

I was really looking forward to bringing home the 19's but I didnt due to obvious reasons. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[JBLRaiser]

Hi folks, first post. So its only fitting to say HI.
I am looking for help on a pair of 19's that I was going to purchase but we hit a bump in the road. We hooked them up only to find out neither of the horns would work. The woofers seemed to work fine. We took the horns out and looked, but neither of us really knew what we were looking at/ for.

All the wires appeared to be still in place, and we didnt see anything that really just screamed the problem. I took pictures of the crossovers and the horns, and maybe the woofs (I stuck camera in there and just took pics, hopefully they came out).

One thing I noticed that may or not be a red flag was the screw holding the binding posts to the horn. It has a star shaped head on the screw. My first thought was that cant be original as I didnt think they used those kind of screws. I may be wrong, I dunno.

I can look at the pics (or post if I knew how) and post the numbers off the guts of the X overs. The horn also had a paper sticker on it with numbers. I just dont know what numbers are significant. Can anyone tell me what numbers to look for to see if these are original?

I was really looking forward to bringing home the 19's but I didnt due to obvious reasons. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was told by an my electronics guru that the leads to the diaphragms could be broken. He said it was common on speakers of that age. The leads flex with the diaphragm and over time the can snap. With his amazing ability to solder, he reattached them and voila', music. If that is the problem, it's either solder or replace the diaphragms with GPA's.

http://www.greatplainsaudio.com/

Hope this helps.

[ProudTexan]

If the wires are snapped, it must be inside something as all the wires we could see looked fine. Thats what was aggravating about it, I couldnt see anything obvious. When I played a CD, you could hear the singing in the woofer, but no sound at all in the horns. I will look at the price for diaphrams for these beasts. Thanks for the link.

[JBLRaiser]

If the wires are snapped, it must be inside something as all the wires we could see looked fine. Thats what was aggravating about it, I couldnt see anything obvious. When I played a CD, you could hear the singing in the woofer, but no sound at all in the horns. I will look at the price for diaphrams for these beasts. Thanks for the link.


a little DIY is necessary just to work on the drivers. So, you'll have to remove the woofers, then remove the horn and then take the cover off the back where the driver/diaphragm is. This is where the leads are. This isn't too hard, but if you know someone experienced in removing large and heavy drivers, you may want to get their help so as not to damage the cone of the woofer. In taking out the horn/driver, having your hand inside the woofer opening to support the horn while taking out the screws is the best way to get it out without damage to the baffle. Good luck.

[ProudTexan]

Ok. I see now. I wonder if this sticker number will tell ya anyting? On the back of the horn, it has a number which is: 27-03-033952. I also wrote down some numbers on the guts of the Crossovers. I noticed a name of Rockwood on it, and one says Cali 9-CXPSI. Any idea what these might be worth without the horns working? One of the grills is damaged. Meaning the brace on the outer edge broke. The fabric is in good shape, but the frame is broke. The cabinets dont have any major scrathes although a corner might be dinged. Thanks

[ProudTexan]

When you say take the back off, you mean to the horn or woofer or both?

[louped garouv]

welcome aboard...

i believe that the numbers on the back of the driver
(attached to the horn), are the factory code for
802-8G HF driver, and maybe a date code preceeding it...

for a recharge of the alnico, and new diaphragms
I think the GPA price is about $100 per driver...

and if it is in fact the leads that have 'snapped'
you could solder them back together, or sell them
(making note of any numbers present on them in the auction text)
(if you decide to fix them, there are threads discussing this procedure on the altec users board)

it's hard to make an estimate without seeing them in my opinion...
but the range seems to go from "figurative" pennies at a garage sale to well over a grand for pristine, well advertised units....

[ProudTexan]

Thanks for the Welcoming. I would like to keep them so I dont want to flip them or part them out. I will check that other thread now that I'm getting "edumacated" about these things. I have never heard a pair of these, but I'm guessing they are pretty good just reading about them.

Thanks

[ProudTexan]

hhhmm. I hate to ask such a silly question, but where is the Altec Users board? Different site or thread?

Thanks

[JBLRaiser]

hhhmm. I hate to ask such a silly question, but where is the Altec Users board? Different site or thread?

Thanks


http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=3729

[ProudTexan]

Thank you. I really want a pair of these 19's.

[ProudTexan]

Is there some sort of stand or something that goes under these speakers? With the speaker hook-ups on the bottom, that seems tough to have speakers resting on speaker wires. HHmm.

[louped garouv]

there was an optional base, it is almost (if not) identical to the "picture frame" type structure that separates the woofer's box from the box the horn is in...


you can see a littel of it in this pic...
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/specs/home-systems/model-19/page1.jpg

[ProudTexan]

Are these common? If I offered a price to buy these 19's would the missing base come into play? Meaning, do they depreciate if the base is missing? Again, I dont want to part em out or turn them, I want to keep them and be able to pass them down my kids / grandkiddos.

[hjames]

there was an optional base, it is almost (if not) identical to the "picture frame" type structure that separates the woofer's box from the box the horn is in...


you can see a littel of it in this pic...
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/specs/home-systems/model-19/page1.jpg

Ah, so it normally would sit on the option plinth, or base ...
You could probably build one easily enough from 1 x 3s or similar ...

My L200s came with an attached base made of chipboard, mdf or a similar material that , frankly, chips easily and isn't very strong, so I did something like that and even put casters on them to make them easier to move around by myself ...

[louped garouv]

Are these common? If I offered a price to buy these 19's would the missing base come into play?

just another haggling point, right?

and Heather, you are correct... chip board plinth...
that chips pretty easily... i've read that poplar is a good wood to use if you
are making replacements...

[ProudTexan]

Cool. Thats a good idea with the rollers. I was actually thinking of something like that, only made of metal. But my metal legs idea didnt include rollers. I was also thinking I might move the existing, basically do away with them and put banana clips on the back.

Of course, I need to purchase these things first. I am not the owner as of this minute. I'm trying to figure out if I want a project. Well, I take that back, I do want them, I just have to figure out what I want to offer for them.

[louped garouv]

i personally would advise against moving the connector plates to the rear of the units...

i can see why folks contemplate "upgrading" them, but i would keep the originals and put the new one right where the old ones were, if i was dead set on getting larger gauge interconnect into them...



just my .02
:)

[boputnam]

...I really want a pair of these 19's.Be careful what you wish for.


... do they depreciate if the base is missing? Uh, no - they are well known for "missing" bass. ;)

[westend]

Be careful what you wish for.

Uh, no - they are well known for "missing" bass. ;)LOL, very dry. I have a pair of 19's. As to the base, you could always buy a couple of moving dollys and set them on there until you finish work on them or find their eventual resting place. I've seen these four caster dollys go for as cheap as $19.
Regarding the horn problem, Louped is probably right in his assesment, the diaphragm leads have parted. They are inside the horn motor so not visible from the exterior. I know others have soldered them but new diaphragms that come with the new style connection are a better choice, IMO.
It sounds like the OP has a real Model 19 jones, going here. If you are trying to determine a value, give a call to Great Plains Audio and ask them what the cost of new woofers and new compression drivers are. Add $250 for crossovers and $500 for the cabs. That would be the price for the build, approximately.

[ProudTexan]

Jones'in is right. I am stuck on the fence. I want these speakers, but I'm not sure I'm up to the task of re-building them at this time. I made an offer but the owner turned ut down. So, it may be a dead deal.

[Gary L]

Here is a pic of the leads that tend to fry or break from flexing. This is a new style diaphragm and the old style has an almost 90 degree bend where they always break.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/HF%20Drivers/DSCN1423.jpg

You will find this under the rear cover that has the 033952 on it. Just remove the 6 screws that hold the horn in and the driver is on the end. Remove the rear cover to expose the diaphragm and be very careful around the fram as the magnet tends to yank metal screw drivers right into it.

Some guys are good enough to repair them but I think the key is if they just broke from flexing or if they got fried. They have better luck repairing broken ones then they will with overheated and fried ones.

If you send the drivers to GPA he will recharge the magnets, install new and heavier duty diaphragms and make sure they are right. Do not throw the old diaphragms away! If they are original "Light" diaphragms they will have the number 23744 on the underside edge of the voice coil. Put them either here, the Altec site mentioned above or on ebay and make it clear the leads are broken. Those with the skills will buy them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/HF%20Drivers/FramNumbers-1.jpg

To the best of my knowledge, the bases that you are missing are identicle to the black seperator between the two boxes. Particle board is what they should be made from but plywood or poplar will work just as well or better.
I don't like the idea of dollies or wheels but if you buy them then you are free to do as you like with your speakers.

I have new XO knobs if they are missing or messed up and the 19s are always worth fixing up and keeping them stock original.

Have fun with a great speaker.

Gary