033 repair

[infinityQ2]

The tweeter in one of my L110s' has a dent in it, the material is very hard and I can't pop it out, thinking of applying heat from a hair dryer?? Ideas Anyone??

[SMKSoundPro]

I fixed my 033 on one of my L110's by taking the allen screws out and get the diaphram in your hands and gently push out from the inside.

Re-assemble back together, and pray it still works.

I know of no other simple way using a vacuum cleaner or anything like it to accomplish the task at hand.

Scotty.

[mech986]

I have found that you can gently "suck" them out with vacuum pressure from the mouth pressed over the dome. Most dome tweeters will pop out to some degree using this technique and it avoids any potential damage from poorly controlled vacuum cleaner sources.

Clean the mounting plate with a baby wipe or alcohol wipe (test though to be sure it won't take off the paint). then gently try to pull it out. It usually will give with a soft pop. there may be residual dents though but much better than before.

The idea of heating them a bit with a hair dryer may help but be careful not to heat the mounting plate so hot that your lips will get burned.

good luck!

Bart

[Allanvh5150]

I would go with Scotty and remove the 'phram and push it out with a skillfull finger. I have done it before, just be real carful.

[CheeseGrits]

I removed the screws from mine and could not figure out how to get at the inside of the diaphragm. This isn't nearly as easy as it sounds. Or, maybe I'm an idiot. Any tips?

[LRBacon]

I removed the screws from mine and could not figure out how to get at the inside of the diaphragm. This isn't nearly as easy as it sounds. Or, maybe I'm an idiot. Any tips?

The leads of the diaphram have to be unsoldered and gently pulled away from the back plate in order for it to come away from the magnetic structure. They'll have to go back on the same way they came off.
I would try a gentle vacuum first. I have used a real sticky tape, such as Gorilla tape. Gently press the tape on to dented area of the dome and then quickly pull the tape straight off. This works quite well if the dome is not deeply pushed in.

Larry

[CheeseGrits]

The leads of the diaphram have to be unsoldered and gently pulled away from the back plate in order for it to come away from the magnetic structure. They'll have to go back on the same way they came off.
I would try a gentle vacuum first. I have used a real sticky tape, such as Gorilla tape. Gently press the tape on to dented area of the dome and then quickly pull the tape straight off. This works quite well if the dome is not deeply pushed in.

Larry

I couldn't generate enough force with my Dyson vacuum. I'm not opposed to unsoldering the leads. It's a spare tweeter now anyway. Thanks!

[mech986]

Try the "suck out" method first before unsoldering leads or pulling the diaphragm. What have you got to lose before having to resort to more invasive techniques?

I've successfully pulled out 3 x 033 tweeters on L40's and similar KEF T27 melinex plastic dome tweeters on many British speakers.

Bart

[SMKSoundPro]

Here are some pictures of an 044 tweeter. The process is the same for a 033. Just be careful!

[SMKSoundPro]

and

[SMKSoundPro]

In this instance, a little silver Krylon can go a long way.

Remember, this is not rocket science!

Scotty.

[johnaec]

In this instance, a little silver Krylon can go a long way.

Remember, this is not rocket science!

Scotty.Actually, it's starting to get a little closer to rocket science now - especially with some of those high tolerances menioned these days!!

John

[BMWCCA]

Have you ever considered a career as a hand model? ;)

Now you just need to reapply the "aluminum by means of a vapor deposition process". So, which Krylon color do you use? Bright Silver? Dull Aluminum? Chrome Aluminum?

[SMKSoundPro]

Have you ever considered a career as a hand model? ;)

Now you just need to reapply the "aluminum by means of a vapor deposition process". So, which Krylon color do you use? Bright Silver? Dull Aluminum? Chrome Aluminum?

You funny guy!

scotty.

[infinityQ2]

[quote=SMKSoundPro;224272]Here are some pictures of an 044 tweeter. The process is the same for a 033. Just be careful![/quote

I am just amazed. This tweeter has been like this for twenty years. I ask for help on this forum and, within hours, am bombarded with suggestions, even step by step instructions with photos. Wish life was this simple. Thanks guys.

[infinityQ2]

In this instance, a little silver Krylon can go a long way.

Remember, this is not rocket science!

Scotty.

thanks for the advice on the 033 repair, worked great, Mike.

[LRBacon]

I didn't realize that the terminal assembly was only glued lightly to the magnet assembly. Learn something new every day!

Larry
Who apparently didn't know what he was talking about.

[infinityQ2]

I didn't realize that the terminal assembly was only glued lightly to the magnet assembly. Learn something new every day!

Larry
Who apparently didn't know what he was talking about.

Larry, I am a stone mason so I usually break anything fragile I touch, thank god it was only glued lightly as I was prying it off I could already see my next post. (HELP! 033 REPAIR), MIke.

[LRBacon]

Larry, I am a stone mason so I usually break anything fragile I touch, thank god it was only glued lightly as I was prying it off I could already see my next post. (HELP! 033 REPAIR), MIke.


Mike, I had a 033 that was dead but the dome was in really nice shape. I took it apart and tried to solder the broken brass wire at the top of the voice coil where it goes out to the lead. I didn't have much luck, too delicate of a solder point let alone trying to hold it place to do it. I had unsoldered one of the leads not knowing until today that the whole terminal and diaphragm assembly could easily come apart from the magnet.
Of course the other flat thin lead got bent and twisted.
It wouldn't have gone flat again if my life depended on it.
Larry

[grumpy]

...the whole terminal and diaphragm assembly could easily come apart from the magnet. The few 044's I've opened up had the T&D assembly attached rather well
(they did not separate 'easily' from the magnet assy., but they did separate
with slow/persistent persuasion... a heat gun might have helped).

... not intended as a correction, just that one might encounter a range of glue tenacity
as opposed to always expecting an easy disassembly. Fortunately, my first trial was
with a dead 044 (smoked/unraveled voice coil), so all the force in the world wasn't
going to make anything worse.

Nice photos Scotty, including the foam insert (goes behind dome).

There are tabs/notches that fairly define where the coil is going to be centered, but
I ran a freq sweep before firmly seating the assembly, and then again after complete
assembly of all parts. Fortunately, I've had no audible problems with these units after
repair.

[SMKSoundPro]

To separate the diaphram assembly from the magnet, I have a very flexible, thin polished putty knife that I slide in-between carefully. I am breaking the "seal" for lack of a better term. When done with the dome, reassemble with the small foam plug inside the dome, and repostion and screw the allen screws in lightly. Test on a tone generator at very low volume to make sure there is no rubbing, then tighten screws.

When these diaphragms are NLA (no longer available) it does not hurt trying to find the problem. I have been able to successfully resolder the small wire and make a "dead" one come alive. It may not be perfect, but a working unit is the outcome for me.


Glad everyone liked the pictures. Lisa said that she has some silver "sparkle" paint that might sound even better than the aluminum dusting. She thought the sparkles will help disperse the ultrasonics even better! She also had some other colors to boot! Gotta love her!

Man, what people will believe.

Hope everyone is fine and continues to help one another in this quest for servicing our older JBL drivers.

Scotty.

[infinityQ2]

To separate the diaphram assembly from the magnet, I have a very flexible, thin polished putty knife that I slide in-between carefully. I am breaking the "seal" for lack of a better term. When done with the dome, reassemble with the small foam plug inside the dome, and repostion and screw the allen screws in lightly. Test on a tone generator at very low volume to make sure there is no rubbing, then tighten screws.

When these diaphragms are NLA (no longer available) it does not hurt trying to find the problem. I have been able to successfully resolder the small wire and make a "dead" one come alive. It may not be perfect, but a working unit is the outcome for me.


Glad everyone liked the pictures. Lisa said that she has some silver "sparkle" paint that might sound even better than the aluminum dusting. She thought the sparkles will help disperse the ultrasonics even better! She also had some other colors to boot! Gotta love her!

Man, what people will believe.

Hope everyone is fine and continues to help one another in this quest for servicing our older JBL drivers.

Scotty.

I used a butter knife and a lot of swear, I mean prayer, lucked out, sounds fine, Mike.