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View Full Version : JBL L-350's Test!



jblfan077
09-05-2008, 08:12 PM
So I just couldnt resist driving up to seattle and buying those L-350's some of you saw on ebay. So how do they sound? Well amazing, I'm enjoyin the sound they produce a little more than my L300's. Advantages seem to be the tweeter and horn are more at ear level which really really helps by the way. Bottom end seems really smooth and tight I will be testing them a little more just got them home :) Cabinets are beautifully made, they did an excellent job even with the grills which are 3d like the L300 grills. They do weigh more than 100 lbs, i'd say 150 lbs or so each.

John
09-05-2008, 08:16 PM
:useless:

jblfan077
09-05-2008, 08:17 PM
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=21516&stc=1&d=1166735887

hjames
09-05-2008, 08:30 PM
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=21516&stc=1&d=1166735887
nah, we've seen the SELLER's pictures a few times,
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=13616
we want to see them in YOUR system!


The basic info: the 350s had all L300 drivers plus a 15" passive radiator (http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/statusicon/post_old.gif 12-21-2006, 01:31 PM)

Giskard said:
The S300 was fairly common back then as was adding the PR15C. The S300 kit went for $915 plus $55 for the PR15C for a total of $970. 136H, LE85, 077, HL92, LX300, PR15C. People usually bought the S300 kit along with the EN5 for a total kit price of $1,165. The L300 went for $1,395 at that same time.

The really funny thing is that everytime this thing gets talked up, the newcomer who is talking about can't figure how to upload pictures - its almost like its the same person each time that is talking it up!

jblfan077
09-06-2008, 04:06 PM
I just got them home and I am away for the weekend, I havent had a chance to take any pictures yet. I will for sure post some. I only have 30 watts rms going to them right now while my sansui gets fixed so I cant wait to hear what they sound like with 160 watts, plus these seem to be really efficient in the low end, really puts out the bass with little wattage.

jblfan077
09-06-2008, 06:34 PM
Anyone have any cool tips on getting a woofer out that has been glued in around the inside edge with out being able to reach the back side of the speaker...? I cant believe anyone would glue the woofers in!

clmrt
09-06-2008, 06:40 PM
Place a wooden block on the floor to stop the cabinet as you drop it face-down from a few inches.

Inertia will force the driver to pop out the rest of the way to the floor.

I had to do that with an L26 of all things. A little easier than what you face, I'm sure.

SEAWOLF97
09-06-2008, 07:09 PM
Place a wooden block on the floor to stop the cabinet as you drop it face-down from a few inches.

Inertia will force the driver to pop out the rest of the way to the floor.

I had to do that with an L26 of all things. A little easier than what you face, I'm sure.

I've done it this way too, just dont drop the baffle flat on the tweeers, I use a rolled up towel to stop it.

jblfan077
09-08-2008, 01:27 PM
Wow thanks guys thats a good idea, ill give it a try later on tonight when I have more help :) these things are huge. One of the 136a woofers was re-surrounded with the foam on the wrong side (hate it when idiots do this) and I think it must have messed up the coil because you can hear it bottoming out probably wasnt alligned correctly. I managed to get the surround off the front face but it still bottoms out you can hear it hitting when you push the cone in all the way, no scraping on the way down just at the bottom. The passive radiators have also been surrounded the wrong way, That will be the first thing I fix, The other 136a is in perfect condition jbl cone too! 077's have original diaphrams, Im sure the le 85's do too. Well enough rambling ill give that a try and hopefully I can get these woofers out!

jblfan077
09-12-2008, 06:10 PM
So I soon found that there was no way in removing the woofers except for removing the front baffle. So Right now I have it all removed and will be making a new one in the next few days. Should I add an 8" 1118 woofer and make it a 4 way while Im at it? Cant fit a 10" Thanks guys
Eric

Robh3606
09-12-2008, 06:37 PM
"Should I add an 8" 1118 woofer and make it a 4 way while Im at it? Cant fit a 10" Thanks guys"

You are running passive?? Well not unless you want to redesign the crossovers and retune the box. You are going to loose close to .6-.75 of a cubic ft. of interior space if you go with a .5cu ft sub enclosure for the 2118. You need to do some serious home work before you just drop one into the mix.

Rob:)

hjames
09-12-2008, 06:46 PM
So I soon found that there was no way in removing the woofers except for removing the front baffle. So Right now I have it all removed and will be making a new one in the next few days. Should I add an 8" 1118 woofer and make it a 4 way while Im at it? Cant fit a 10" Thanks guys
Eric
Sure you can fit a 10 - if you don't use the PR and just use a single 15 per box!

Mr. Widget
09-12-2008, 07:25 PM
Sure you can fit a 10 - if you don't use the PR and just use a single 15 per box!Good point... and many of us think that a ported woofer has a tighter, more defined sound than one with a passive anyway.


Widget

jblfan077
09-12-2008, 07:54 PM
Would I really have to retune it since its sealed if I add an 8", Do you think I would enjoy the sound better with a 4 way single 15 and a 10" midrange. The problem is If I port the box with only a single 15" then I will have to completly tune it and to be honest I dont have a lot of experience with that. Yes I was thinking about re doing the crossovers or run active ones, Either way. Whats your guy's opinions on this whole thing, or should I just leave it the way it is, I have to re do the front baffles anyways but I dont have a lot of experience tuning. Thanks agian
Eric

jblfan077
09-12-2008, 07:57 PM
here is my options

1. Keep the way it is
2. keep the passive and add an 8" mid and change crossovers
3. Get rid of the passive and port the box and add a 10" mid
4. Change the passive to an active 15 so there is dual actives in each box and port it, and possibly add an 8" mid or not. I really want to make this the best speaker I can while Im doing this, and I know you are the right guys to get advice. Thanks!
Eric

hjames
09-12-2008, 08:53 PM
Your easiest path is to keep it as is ... Its a pretty unique system from all we've heard.
Few of us would know how it sounds, compared to an L300, a 4333, or a 4343.

How much do you want to invest in the project?
How much tinkering do you want to do ?

A lot of folks are real fond of the sound of the original L300 3ways.
You basically have all the parts to do this design - no passives needed.

Lots of folks like the sound of the 4343 4 ways. You need a 2122 10 inch to do this, you need to make a "doghouse" on the back of the front baffle to isolate the 10 inch midbass driver from the effects of the 15.
You would also need to build/buy a pair of passive crossover networks for 4 way use (or a specialized 3 way and an Active crossover to biAmp it). All of this can be a somewhat complex - semi-cloning a big 4 way monitor.


here is my options

1. Keep the way it is
2. keep the passive and add an 8" mid and change crossovers
3. Get rid of the passive and port the box and add a 10" mid
4. Change the passive to an active 15 so there is dual actives in each box and port it, and possibly add an 8" mid or not. I really want to make this the best speaker I can while Im doing this, and I know you are the right guys to get advice. Thanks!
Eric

Robh3606
09-12-2008, 09:00 PM
Why don't you measure the interior volume so you know exactly what your box size is. You can make up a temporary baffle and keep the current set-up. You can then make up a second bafle once you work out exactly what you want to do.

I would download WinIsd and see what you can get with a ported box with the sub-enclosure for the added driver subtracted from the box volume. Your best bet would be to add a 2122 and use the 4344 crossover to change over to a 4 way. That is not as easy as it sounds as you will probably have to get cores and have fresh kits added and build the crossover. Your total box volume will determine if this is a real option or not.

WinIsd

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

Rob:)

jblfan077
09-12-2008, 09:55 PM
Ok ive got the measurements, its 8.8324652 cubic feet not counting the braces. Whats the best way to make a baffle that is removable if I want to later with out destroying it. I was thinking about adding to the front lip so I have a little more to screw into and just screw the front face down that way I could unscrew it later if desired to change it out.

I do love the sound of my L300's very much but they do seem to be lacking something, what I think is a good 10" midrange would solve. When I first got these I compared them to my L300's and these sounded better that is for sure in all area's. How much bennifit would I get If I ditched the passives and put in another set of active woofers and ported it. Would I have to change the crossover or could I run in series at 4 ohms. I love learning more about these systems feed me more info! :)

jblfan077
09-13-2008, 12:12 AM
Also should I make the baffle out of MDF or high quality plywood?

toddalin
09-13-2008, 09:51 AM
Ok ive got the measurements, its 8.8324652 cubic feet not counting the braces. Whats the best way to make a baffle that is removable if I want to later with out destroying it. I was thinking about adding to the front lip so I have a little more to screw into and just screw the front face down that way I could unscrew it later if desired to change it out.

I do love the sound of my L300's very much but they do seem to be lacking something, what I think is a good 10" midrange would solve. When I first got these I compared them to my L300's and these sounded better that is for sure in all area's. How much bennifit would I get If I ditched the passives and put in another set of active woofers and ported it. Would I have to change the crossover or could I run in series at 4 ohms. I love learning more about these systems feed me more info! :)

If a 10" is what you crave, why not simply remove the upper 15", put in a block-off plate with a 10" hole and a dog house, install the 10" and use the other 15" in the sub that you will build at a later date? The extra space left in the cabinet should even help your low freq response for the remaining 15" if you want to go with an infinite baffle (sealed enclosure), or you could add a port. You could even install the port in the block-off plate with the 10" and this would allow you to change back if ever desired.

hjames
09-13-2008, 12:02 PM
If a 10" is what you crave, why not simply remove the upper 15", put in a block-off plate with a 10" hole and a dog house, install the 10" and use the other 15" in the sub that you will build at a later date? The extra space left in the cabinet should even help your low freq response for the remaining 15" if you want to go with an infinite baffle (sealed enclosure), or you could add a port. You could even install the port in the block-off plate with the 10" and this would allow you to change back if ever desired.

Well, kinda pointless to build a box for the other 15
- its just a PR15C ... :)

But the rest of the idea is cool!

Mr. Widget
09-13-2008, 12:09 PM
But the rest of the idea is cool!Isn't the "rest of the idea" pretty much what has already been discussed?

Anyway, about the baffle material. The choice depends on several factors. How much internal bracing you have, what thickness you can get away with and preserve the cabinets' aesthetics etc.


Widget

jblfan077
09-13-2008, 12:42 PM
I like your idea making a block off plate and adding a 10 when I want. I could then add an active crossover too. I can add 3/4" of anything. It was mdf before, so I was thinking about just doing that, but if high quality plywood is better then ill do that. As for bracing, it doesnt have as much as it should, one brace laterally and 2 bracing the front baffle when it gets on. I will be adding more bracing though just to beef it up like it should. I want to do this system right.

grumpy
09-13-2008, 01:06 PM
I'll go ahead and suggest plywood initially for the following reasons:

-if- you happen to want to use t-nuts so that the "nut" hardware
is retained in the baffle, the t-nut "teeth" will sink into plywood and
are not designed for MDF... there are "hurricane nuts" that serve a
similar function for MDF, but cost more (IIRC).

2nd, if you plan on taking drivers in/out often (even if only initially),
the likely hood of damaging the MDF (such as tearing out a hole near
a larger cutout) is higher.

For painting, etc... one could cut out a 'final' MDF version later.

Robh3606
09-14-2008, 09:10 AM
like your idea making a block off plate and adding a 10 when I want.


The problem with that is the driver spacing is "wrong". You want the top 3 drivers closely spaced. You also don't want your active woofer right on the floor. Yeah it's easy but it sure is not optimal. Take a look at the driver spacing on the 4340-44, use that as your reference.

Rob:)

toddalin
09-14-2008, 10:21 AM
You also don't want your active woofer right on the floor. Yeah it's easy but it sure is not optimal.

Rob:)

So this is optimal? His lower driver is further from the floor than yours.

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/image.php?u=23&dateline=1200177595

pos
09-14-2008, 10:40 AM
Toddalin, Rob's 4344 can be put on stand to keep the woofer off the floor *and* the horns at ear level.
The L350 are much higher, and the horns are already at hear level without a stand...

Robh3606
09-14-2008, 12:49 PM
So this is optimal? His lower driver is further from the floor than yours.

Hello Toddalin

Did you read the post??

"Take a look at the driver spacing on the 4340-44"

toddalin
09-14-2008, 04:30 PM
Hello Toddalin

Did you read the post??

"Take a look at the driver spacing on the 4340-44"

Yes I read the post. You said his woofer was too close to the floor. Yet JBL has other examples just as close or closer.

Sure the spacing is not optimal, but ther are plenty of other offerings from JBL that are also less than optimal. Do you think that the tweeter in the Jubal is in the optimal position??? Hardly.

He may not be able to get the 10" as close to the horn as JBL does in their offerings, but no one said that he had to center it in the 15" hole either. Obviously, he would put the 10" at the top of the hole which would pull it in considerably toward the mids/highs.

As for the woofer being too close to the floor and using stands, he could easily but a 2"x2" under the front and a 1"x1" under the rear. This would get the driver up at least as high as say an L200 and also tilt it back toward the listening position.

As someone else on this site always says..., this stuff is all about compromises.

jblfan077
09-15-2008, 11:23 PM
Again there comes the option adding that 8" mid above the 2 15's and then put the horn higher up next to the tweeter and offset the tweeter to the side of the horn. I would also take those weird dials it has on it off and put in jbl style ones. But the real question is will an 8" be big enough to make a difference. Ive been looking at the 2118 and it seems to match up nicely but im no expert. I think I will go ahead and make the baffle out of high quality high ply, plywood. As per your suggestions, because looking at the old mdf that was on there, they had the exact problems with crumpling and everything as you mentioned. Thanks again
Eric

Doc Mark
09-16-2008, 07:22 AM
Morning,

As I'm going to be dealing with a similar project, in some ways, I'd probably recommend a good 10", over the 8". Though overall dispersion might be better from an 8", and think that the 10" 2123H, and it's family, have more than proved their mettle over the years, as far as I'm concerned. Thanks for suggestions from folks on LH, I've picked up a nice pair of 2123H's (Thanks, Bart!), and will be using those in my own project. Just a thought, and from one who has not yet been down that road! For what it's worth.... Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc