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View Full Version : Baffle mounting 2405 slots?



robertbartsch
07-31-2008, 03:20 PM
How do these drivers mount to a baffle?

Are these supposed to use a special mounting bracket or do you use long bolts that are threaded into the slot cover?

Thx...

hjames
07-31-2008, 04:05 PM
How do these drivers mount to a baffle?

Are these supposed to use a special mounting bracket or do you use long bolts that are threaded into the slot cover?

Thx...
They have a rounded/square faceplate with 4 threaded holes - you can mount them against the inside of your cabinet and use screws through the baffleboard to hold them tight on the inside face like the 4341 below. That's factory style in all the newer big monitors, and it seems JBL mounts them so the face is flush to the front baffleboard. I think they are beveled-head 8/32 screws if memory serves, but check before assuming I'm right ;)

toddalin
07-31-2008, 05:44 PM
Easy way is to just use ~3/4" long wood screws just smaller than the threads and just shorter than the tweeter/baffle and screw them into the baffle from behind leaving no marks on the front.

Certainly makes for the "cleanest" looking installation, (though I'll probably catch he:biting::biting: now for not doing it the JBL way).

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/speaker2.jpg

John
07-31-2008, 11:42 PM
OK, Todd you asked for it. :flamer:

Rolf
08-01-2008, 12:02 AM
:blink:

macaroonie
08-01-2008, 09:24 AM
Robert if you check this thread out you should be clearer about the process

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17155&page=3&highlight=backyard+box+building

From post no. 44 onwards

toddalin
08-01-2008, 09:43 AM
Robert if you check this thread out you should be clearer about the process

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17155&page=3&highlight=backyard+box+building

From post no. 44 onwards


Way too much effort! :blink:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=28028&stc=1&d=1189520261

Simply use a 3-1/8" diameter hole saw.

Mr. Widget
08-01-2008, 09:53 AM
Robert if you check this thread out you should be clearer about the process

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17155&page=3&highlight=backyard+box+building

From post no. 44 onwardsThat is essentially how I do it, except that I've made a larger template to use with my router so that it is easily clamped to the baffle.

The beauty of mounting these with the machine screws through the baffle as JBL has intended is that removal for repair is a snap and the mounting is quite positive.


Widget

4313B
08-01-2008, 11:22 AM
That is essentially how I do it, except that I've made a larger template to use with my router so that it is easily clamped to the baffle.Yep :yes:

toddalin
08-01-2008, 11:45 AM
Actually, it would appear that JBL has no problem with using wood screws from the back as specified in their own literature. :p

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1960-c41/page1.jpg

Mr. Widget
08-01-2008, 11:57 AM
Actually, it would appear that JBL has no problem with using wood screws from the back as specified in their own literature. :p

http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/home-speakers/1960-c41/page1.jpgI don't think anyone said that wood screws were wrong, they just aren't as good or as convenient as the machine screws.

BTW: The example you showed is for the earlier mounting rings before JBL designed the newer tapped design... but why are we going on about this anyway?


Widget

toddalin
08-01-2008, 12:03 PM
I don't think anyone said that wood screws were wrong, they just aren't as good or as convenient as the machine screws.

BTW: The example you showed is for the earlier mounting rings before JBL designed the newer tapped design... but why are we going on about this anyway?


Widget

I know that they were untapped. It's only that it was in fact done by JBL so is an acceptable way to mount the tweeter. (I sure that 4313B is grinding his teeth about now.)

What confuses me is the recommended hole diameter. :blink:
JBL specs the tweeter hole at 3-3/16" or 81 mm.

I used a 3-1/8" 79 mm hole saw and the tweeter slides right in with space to spare. It would seem to me that that extra 1/16" is all "slop."

This is valuable info to anyone about to drill this hole and wants a good fit.

toddalin
08-01-2008, 12:07 PM
OK, Todd you asked for it. :flamer:

Someone has got to keep things lively. ;)

Robh3606
08-01-2008, 12:10 PM
Call me lazy but I just bring out the 3 1/8 hole saw bit. Just drill a pilot hole to get it started.

Rob:)

4313B
08-01-2008, 01:42 PM
I sure that 4313B is grinding his teeth about now.Nope, I just feel sorry for you is all.

Call me lazy but I just bring out the 3 1/8 hole saw bit. Just drill a pilot hole to get it started.

Rob:)The templates are especially useful on larger baffles and multiple runs. Some of the templates are as big as the baffles themselves and have all the cutouts and bolt holes lined out.

but why are we going on about this anyway?Boredom? Tied to a chair in front of a keyboard?

allen mueller
08-01-2008, 02:41 PM
Call me lazy but I just bring out the 3 1/8 hole saw bit. Just drill a pilot hole to get it started.

Rob:)

Same here, than i use the driver as a template to mark the mounting holes.

robertbartsch
08-04-2008, 07:45 AM
These drivers did not come with mounting brackets, so I made them.

First I removed the factory installed rubber insulation cusion surrounding the magnets. I then fabricated two 5.5 inch square hardwood brackets from 1/2 stock with cutouts sized to fit the magnet.

I then placed one wood bracket in front of the magnet and the other behind. I then bolted the two wooden brackets togeather with threaded rod, washers and nuts to complete the mounting brackets.

Then I used a hole saw to cut the 3 1/8 inch hole in the baffle. The drivers were then secured to the baffle using wood screws from the front.


This seems to work well and I would venture to say they are very secure and are unlikely to budge in a home setting.