Classic Studio Monitor woofer removal? Help!

[slowburn]

How on earth do I remove 12-inchers from 4312 cabinets without trashing either the cabinet face or the driver?

I tried removing the tweeters, reaching inside and tapping on the frame. Dicey, this. A misstep puts my hand through the cone. Done with that.

Tried to pry from the front exterior. Bad idea. Face is too soft.

The driver's outer edge seems almost glued into its cut-out. Is the woofer recessed, as it appears to be? Is there a gasket in there that, after 25 or 30 years, has become one with driver frame and cabinet face?

Do I try to reach one clamp jaw inside through this tweet cut-out, crank against the driver's frame?

What's the trick? Help, por favor. I'm all ears.

Well, half ears, anyway. if I was ALL ears, I'd probably have an Absolute Sound subscription.

[SMKSoundPro]

The woofer sits in a recess on the baffle board.

I have many 4311 and 4312 and L100's and they are all basically the same.

I pry gently with a screwdriver, and you're right the baffle board is relatively soft. Be careful.

I would not use any etreme force to remove the driver. Some of the baffle board might come with it.

When I re-mount the driver, I spread a little baby powder around the hole in the baffle board to keep the driver fom sticking again.

Slow and easy wins the race.

Scotty.

[subwoof]

Use a tiny car jack inside the box with a piece of plywood to protect the magnet.

I snagged a few of these for fifty cents at a gov auction many years ago - they have been REAL handy around the shop and house.

sub

[slowburn]

I've been scheming along the same lines, using the mighty thread to push them out. Lacking such a slick jack--the one in my trunk won't work--I'm currently figuring a way to rig a pony clamp and a chunk of plywood to protect the cone. I figure I may be able to get the stationary jaw into the cabinet through the tweet hole, then align it against the driver's spider. The screwed jaw outside may be set against a block spanning the cabinet edges or even pressed up against the cabinet face. Crank on the clamp and maybe it'll pop.

I've another, kookier idea. What if I place the whole speaker cabinet face down on a flat floor covered in well-padded rug. If I remove the woofer's mounting bolts, then hook up the speaker terminals and blast a Sabbath record, will the woofs jump out and fall that half-inch to the rug? Perhaps plug the port, too. Too crazy? Anyone tried it? Or am I the guinea pig on this one, deserving whatever result may occur?

Thanks for the good suggestion.

[SMKSoundPro]

Slow and easy will win the race, everytime!

BUT...

If you do try your approach, be sure to take a complete photographic series of the project so that others may learn from it!!!

Scotty.

[hjames]

Slow and easy will win the race, everytime!

BUT...

If you do try your approach, be sure to take a complete photographic series of the project so that others may learn from it!!!

Scotty.Yeah, but - do it with the speaker on its BACK so we can see the woofer leap like a dolphin!

[crtstudios76]

Maybe try taking the screws out of the woofer, and finding a phillips head screwdriver that just fits into the mounting holes of the driver. Slide the screwdriver into the mounting hole, and slowly pry a little, and lift as much as you can. That might pop it out. Good luck.

[toddalin]

I've been able to reach in the cabinet and using a long screwdriver wrapped in a towel and block of wood, leverage against the back of the magnet to break a woofer loose.

[jblwolf]

I picked this up trick 30 years ago from a JBL tech,undo the mounting screws just enough so they are loose,than using heavy duty fishing line,work it under the frame until its cuts loose the glue/gasket or the driver comes loose.by keeping the screws in the t-nuts(cabinets)the driver cant fall out of the cabinet once loose.on recessed drivers it may take a little extra effort but it can be done(wont mar the surface).the last thing is not to do is tap or bang on the drivers,some use glue to hold on the magnet.

[johnaec]

...using heavy duty fishing line,work it under the frame until its cuts loose the glue/gasket or the driver comes loose.The problem is his speakers are in recessed mounting holes, so that won't work.

John

[cooky1257]

Have you tried 'carefully' hitting the bolt holes tangentially with the blade of a screwdriver to break the seal? Treating the driver rather like a big seized nut. You get the screwdriver blade flush with the baffle and just locate its tip in the edge of the bolt holes and work your way round the driver. Obviously it needs extra care so as not to slip and damage the surround so is not without its risks and on your head be it etc etc.

[jblwolf]

[quote=johnaec;213893]The problem is his speakers are in recessed mounting holes, so that won't work.:blink:


Worked on my 4311 and L166,as I said "with a little effort,it can be done",I should have added or said-if you possess the skill and patients it can be done........