Screws and Fasteners

[porschedpm]

Not that I need another pair but I'm in the process of building up a pair of 120Ti. I've rounded up the cabinets, drivers and crossovers but I'm missing some of the hardware, specifically the screws for fastening the tweeters, midranges, and crossovers. I tried looking at the tech sheet (see below) to get the specs for these screws but the screws' dimensions are not included, only JBL's part numbers. First question:

Does anyone have a cross-reference that would show the specifications for these screws?

I tried going on the JBL's website but apparently these speakers are no longer serviced by JBL. I borrowed screws from another of my 120Ti's and took em down to my local Lowes Hardware store. I could find screws that would work as fas as the same thread dimensions and size but cosmetically the finish and heads are different. Second question:

Does anyone have a source for Screws and Fasteners in the specifications that JBL uses?

Thanks.

Ed

[macaroonie]

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/fixings.htm

Although they are in the UK I'm sure they would mail to you. Have a Google for fasteners etc and see what you get.

[Allanvh5150]

Hi. I aways use McMaster-Carr. They are pretty close to you I think. As for the sizes, from memory, the 044 used a 8x32 and maybe 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" long, the Le5 used a 6x32 3/4" long and the 12" is held in with 10x32 1 1/4"long with a "fillister" head. Phillips head or cap head, the choice is yours.:)

[3dbdown]

Hi..

Did you try running the part numbers on the price list available from jblro's website?? It's likely that , even though they don't still make the speakers, that the hardware is used in other products. They usually give all the physical parameters of the screws, nuts, washers, etc. in the part description.

Rick

[porschedpm]

Hi..

Did you try running the part numbers on the price list available from jbl(P)ro's website??

Thanks mac, allan, and 3db for the suggestions. I went to the JBLPro website and found the following screw dimensions:

Woofer: 10-32 x 1-1/4, FIL, PH, BLK ZINC, LCS

Mid: 6-32 x 1, FLT, PH, BLK ZINC, LCS

Xover: 8 x 3/4, PAN, PH, PB, BLK ZINC, LCS

Still wasn't able to find the specs for the tweeter screws. Near as I can tell they are 8-32 x 1-1/4, PAN, PH, BLK ZINC

[johnaec]

Woofer: 10-32 x 1-1/4, FIL, PH, BLK ZINC, LCSIf you find a source for these, either black or silver, could you let me know? The closest I could easily find were hex drive cap screws, (same head size as filister), but the phillips head would be easier to deal with. I could use a box of 100.

John

[JBLOG]

I can usually get what I need at;

http://www.boltdepot.com/

[duaneage]

i use gun blue to darken screws. Works like a charm and never comes off. Worked pretty good on an old .22 I refinished.

[macaroonie]

That place looks like it has most stuff, I.m gonna order me a hat

[porschedpm]

If you find a source for these, either black or silver, could you let me know? The closest I could easily find were hex drive cap screws, (same head size as filister), but the phillips head would be easier to deal with. I could use a box of 100.

John

JBLPro had the woofer screws listed in their parts list under part #804-01110-20. Don't know if they still have them or not. Last time I tried to get something from JBLPro I had to go thru an authorized dealer.

McMaster-Carr's selection for them stopped at 1". None at Bolt Depot.

[johnaec]

JBLPro had them listed in their parts list under part #804-01110-20.Well, I guess 30 cents each isn't too bad, if they have them, (I'm sure they'd be more locally, if they could even be found). I'll have Zilch's pro-service friend Daniel try to order me some.

John

[edgewound]

I've got lots of packs of JBL woofer screws with T-nuts. I have both black and silver. 10/32 fillster head.

$5/pack of 4 sets.

[johnaec]

I've got lots of packs of JBL woofer screws with T-nuts. I have both black and silver. 10/32 fillster head.

$5/pack of 4 sets.Are those 1-1/4" long? Are the T-nuts those long-barrel ones with the small bases, perfect for fitting in close to speaker holes? PM sent.

John

[3dbdown]

Hi, guys...

Listen....JBL fastener selection was not Rocket Science!! Just find one that works cosmetically with what you want to see, get 'em in a good finish, and flow with it !!

Philister head was common, because it worked great with air-supplied installation tools, ( a bit deeper head slot, and even with the frame surface after installation) but never forget.....they had to make them production friendly and Marketing acceptable (ie.cheap!!)

If you, like me, prefer to hear you babies with their grilles off, then just get something that looks good to you as far as head style goes.

Cut to the chase, 'cause if you haven't got 'em mounted yet, then that can only mean you are not listening to them........I, personally, can think of no worse scenario.

With all due respect to the factory original.......

Rick (#12)

[porschedpm]

In the process researching the screw sizes of the 120Ti, I found that I had all the correct screws I needed except those for the tweeters. I found some that would work at my local Lowes Hardware store, but they are stainless steel and have a slotted head instead of phillips. Since I have a pair of 18Ti's in the garage that are rarely used, I opted to "borrow" the original tweeter screws in the 18Ti's to use in the 120Ti's. (I'll switch em back if and when I ever find the correct ones.) Here's my updated list of screw specs for the 120Ti, including the JBLPro part #'s:

Woofer: part# 804-01110-20. 10-32 x 1-1/4, FIL, PH, BLK ZINC, LCS

Midrange: part# 802-11010-16. 6-32 x 1, FLT, PH, BLK ZINC, LCS

Tweeter: part# 803-41010-20. 8-32 x 1-1/4, PAN, PH, BLK ZINK, LCS

Xover: part# 883-41110-12. 8 x 3/4, PAN, PH, PB, BLK ZINC, LCS

Again, thanks for everyones help.

Ed

[John]

Hi, guys...

Listen....JBL fastener selection was not Rocket Science!! Just find one that works cosmetically with what you want to see, get 'em in a good finish, and flow with it !!

Philister head was common, because it worked great with air-supplied installation tools, ( a bit deeper head slot, and even with the frame surface after installation) but never forget.....they had to make them production friendly and Marketing acceptable (ie.cheap!!)

If you, like me, prefer to hear you babies with their grilles off, then just get something that looks good to you as far as head style goes.

Cut to the chase, 'cause if you haven't got 'em mounted yet, then that can only mean you are not listening to them........I, personally, can think of no worse scenario.

With all due respect to the factory original.......

Rick (#12)

I have to agree here, just get on with it.:blink:

[JBLOG]

Hi, guys...

Listen....JBL fastener selection was not Rocket Science!! Just find one that works cosmetically with what you want to see, get 'em in a good finish, and flow with it !!

Philister head was common, because it worked great with air-supplied installation tools, ( a bit deeper head slot, and even with the frame surface after installation) but never forget.....they had to make them production friendly and Marketing acceptable (ie.cheap!!)

If you, like me, prefer to hear you babies with their grilles off, then just get something that looks good to you as far as head style goes.

Cut to the chase, 'cause if you haven't got 'em mounted yet, then that can only mean you are not listening to them........I, personally, can think of no worse scenario.

With all due respect to the factory original.......

Rick (#12)



Amen Rick!

[johnaec]

The reason I want the JBL fasteners is two-fold. First, you really need either filister head or cap screws to correctly mount most JBL drivers, since they go down into the basket mounting holes. And second, the T-nuts JBL supplies have small diameter bases and long barrels - perfect for using near speaker holes. They even have some special ones that have flat edges on the base, for really close mounting, (hoping Edge has some of these). It's almost impossible finding the right combination from fastener supply places.

If this were simply to replace missing screws, I could get by, but I've got a bunch of custom stuff in the works...

John

[3dbdown]

Johnaec........

Sorry, buddy....I didn't get that it was the t-nuts that were the problem. I understood it to be the screws, and as discussed, any fillister head of the correct thread size/pitch would work.

I have, in the past, ground down the "land" of the t-nuts to work nearer the frames, and glued them into place enough to hold while carefully starting the screws. If you've got even one tooth left on the t-nut, it'll seat, and problem solved......at least untill the next time!! I have found a number of t-nuts locally, all sizes, which was not the case 20 years ago. I guess I am blessed to have Joe Factor Sales right close by to me in So.Cal!

I'll do some checking around locally and see if I can maybe help you out on this, OK?

Rick