help on L200

[ngccglp]

Hi,

May I know is there a current woofer that can replace the original woofer of the L200?

Thanks

[subwoof]

There are a number of threads on the L200's - use the search function and read some of them before deciding what to do.

I bought a pair of emptys and have just converted them to L300's but if you really want to keep your's original, then the only factory recommended replacement is the 2234H

sub

[hjames]

I've got a pair currently running with a 2234 15s in place - had run it previously with a pair of 2235s (same basic 15 driver, but the 2235s have "mass rings" under the dome that add more "punch" to the sound.

Mine came with the older
2215s originally.


Hi,

May I know is there a current woofer that can replace the original woofer of the L200?

Thanks

[ngccglp]

Thanks guys.

There is a cut in one of the cone, but the owner assured me that it will not affect the sound.

Also, is there any adhesive I can use to mend the cut?

Thanks

[duaneage]

That is a small tear that looks to be uniform, I would use a small amount of white glue witha tiny piece of paper to bridge it. Try not to add too much weight in the process. Naturally we all love perfect drivers but the cost of replacing the cone or driver in this case is pretty high, this will get you back on the road.

[Mr. Widget]

That is a small tear that looks to be uniform, I would use a small amount of white glue witha tiny piece of paper to bridge it. Try not to add too much weight in the process. Naturally we all love perfect drivers but the cost of replacing the cone or driver in this case is pretty high, this will get you back on the road.I agree. I would make the repair on the backside of the cone with white glue and a small piece of lightweight paper.


Widget

[Mannermusic]

Here's another option I've found - virtually a permanent fix, in my experience. Go to the hardware and pick up some Loctite Quick Set epoxy. Two tubes, clear. Relatively viscous before it kicks in. Mix up a small batch and then with a tooth pick, carefully, gently work just a little of the epoxy onto the edges of the tear - just enough to wet both halves. Position the speaker so the tear is horizontal so the epoxy can flow onto/into the tear - you are creating a "weld" of sorts. Takes very little and there is virtually no weight increase. You will have a small, thin line of visible epoxy when you're done. Best to do it from the back (invisible) as suggested but the front will work as well although leaves a small, shiny spot/line - which ever gets you the best adhesion. Might try a practice on an old cone to get the technique down. I did it on a 2118 that I marked with a "screw driver in the back pocket" episode. Wasn't THAT lovely. But, it will be an excellent, strong repair if you get it right. Mike :)