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bert58
03-15-2008, 05:49 AM
Hi everyone:

I bought a pair of 2405h slot tweeters. They show nicks and scuffs in the paint. What's the best way to re-finish the front faces and get as close as possible original factory looks? Thanks

scott fitlin
03-15-2008, 08:14 AM
The slot and horn flare itself come apart.

There are two secrws on the front face of the slot that secure it to the nagnitic structure.

IF you need to take the phase plug out as well ( the black triangular block inside the slots mouth ) youll have to take the horn flare off first, then remeove the foilcal on the back of the dtiver to access the screw the holds the phase plug in place.

Once you have the slots horn and phase plug assembly apart, you can paint them yourself IF you have spray equipment, OR take them to someone who does airbrusihing, or spraying, use a nice high quality paint, you can even go beyond what JBL did, and use a fancier custom auto refinish product. OR, you can have them powder coated. whoever does the work wiill need to prep the damamged aliminum parts, sanding, cleaning, priming, then paint, and POSSIBLY a clear coat.

I might tend to lean towards having them really nicely painted, make a deal with obne of your local auto painting places, as if you put these in a home install and they are visible you would want them to look sharp.

Powder coating is the most durable finish, for commercial use I would do this.

scott fitlin
03-15-2008, 08:42 AM
Hi everyone:

I bought a pair of 2405h slot tweeters. They show nicks and scuffs in the paint. What's the best way to re-finish the front faces and get as close as possible original factory looks? ThanksIF YOU want that factory finish, that is a matte finish, I think you will have to have them painted professionaly. Unless you have spray guns and compressors, etc.

Take them apart, be careful when removing the phase plugs, so as NOT to damage the fragile diaphragms.

Mr. Widget
03-15-2008, 10:51 AM
The slot and horn flare itself come apart.They do, but taking out the center wedge requires first removing the outer horn and then removing the rear label which will reduce their value, but more importantly, unless you are very careful you will likely damage the diaphragm and may not be able to once again center it. There are no guide pins for the ring radiators. To remove the outer horn is straight forward and easy enough though.


Widget

edgewound
03-15-2008, 12:24 PM
Later models are powder coated, but...

Removing the label is not a big deal. Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and carefully pry off the label with a thin blade putty knife, careful to not fold or wrinkle the foilcal.

Unscrew the front horn and separate. Unscrew the phase plug screw underneath the foilcal. The diaphragm is centered by a relief in the topplate, so if you don't disturb it you should be fine.

Use a paint stripper from your local paint/hardware store. Scrub off the remaining paint remnants with 0000 steel wool. Clean well with acetone.

Use primer on the horn for a nice smooth finish.

Then spray with matte black Krylon...light coats..two or three.

Might cost 20 bucks and your time. If you mess it up, send it to me.

Mr. Widget
03-15-2008, 12:32 PM
Then spray with matte black Krylon...light coats..two or three.

Might cost 20 bucks and your time. If you mess it up, send it to me.I also endorse the Krylon and that last line especially. :D


Widget

allen mueller
03-15-2008, 01:44 PM
I've had good luck with Rustoleum satin black as a good color match.

I use a dual action palm sander and some fine 220 grit papper makes quick work of taking off the old finish. Make shure you wear good mask, aluminum dust isn't something you want to be breathing.

Allen

subwoof
03-15-2008, 02:03 PM
Instead of steel wool use the 3M color-coded abrasive pads. Green works well. Leave as much of the original finish on as possible so you don't have to re-primer.

For deep scratches on the horn, use a piece of sandpaper (220 or finer ) glued to a scrap plywood and sand in successive straight motions until the scratch is gone. This method also restores the finish to 2403 faces.

Paint stripper WILL loosen the horn wedges and they will fall out. Remember the mike caldwell horn pictures??

sub

BMWCCA
03-15-2008, 02:25 PM
Slightly off-topic, but similar:

How do you all restore the finish on an 044? I bought some spares a while back but they're nowhere near as nice as the ones in-place. It would appear they'd have to be turned, rather than just sanded, to get the original finish. I suppose as a last resort I could do a Krylon semi-flat black finish on them and call them 044Tis! Anyone had any luck restoring the turned-aluminum finish on these? Chuck 'em up in a lathe? ;)

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c378/BMWCCA1/8a4012a4.jpg%5B/IMG%5Dhttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c378/BMWCCA1/8a4012a4.jpg
I've already repaired the screen, just trying to figure out what to do with the body.

SMKSoundPro
03-15-2008, 02:36 PM
Instead of steel wool use the 3M color-coded abrasive pads. Green works well. Leave as much of the original finish on as possible so you don't have to re-primer.

For deep scratches on the horn, use a piece of sandpaper (220 or finer ) glued to a scrap plywood and sand in successive straight motions until the scratch is gone. This method also restores the finish to 2403 faces.

Paint stripper WILL loosen the horn wedges and they will fall out. Remember the mike caldwell horn pictures??

sub

DITTO!!!

Also works on my bullets. 8 are flat black horns, and 4 with shiny aluminum horns.

Its called a "krylon tuneup" for a reason!

I found that I was able to modify a (I think) a 3-5/8" hole saw and press fit the horn into it and spin it on the drill press and polished them with 220 and then the buffing wheel motor bolted to the drill press table. Super Polished!!!

It sounds SMOOTH!!!!! Lisa likes it! ooh!

SMKSoundPro
03-15-2008, 02:44 PM
Make yourself a buffing wheel!

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.secondchancegarage.com/articles/images/buffingwheel/photo6.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/87.cfm&h=239&w=298&sz=14&hl=en&start=120&um=1&tbnid=j785XadpqbW5PM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbuffing%2Bwheel%26start%3D108%26ndsp% 3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

Take a 1/2 HP 1725rpm electric motor, and get a buffing wheel mandrel and a couple of 6" white cotton buffing and some buffing compund sticks.

You will surprised on how many things you will use it on!!!

Buff that aluminum up to a shine!!!! Like a Boeing 777!

Otherwise, try a green Scotchbrite pad and a LITTLE elbow grease. Not too much.

Scotty.

subwoof
03-15-2008, 03:48 PM
Look in this thread.

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=18401&highlight=sandpaper

Just rotating the tweeter frames by hand worked great..:)

sub

BMWCCA
03-15-2008, 04:55 PM
Subwoof,

Thanks for the link and the "120-grit sandpaper" tip.


Anyways, here is the result. The sandpaper is 120 grit with adhesive backing. The post is the punch section of a greenlee set with some tape to fine-tune it's O.D. It is screwed down with a sheet rock screw thru a 1/4 lock nut to a 1/4 piece of masonite ( you want a little flex in case the tweeter's casting isn't real flat ). Simple but it worked.

When I do the slots and bullets I use the radial arm drill press with another set of jigs. "Gotsa to have dem shiny bullets"Looks like to use your method I'd be taking the diaphragms out of the 044s. I was hoping not to have to, unless they're easier to re-align than I've read.

Given the tools I have to work with, I'm thinking of attaching the body to a round piece of plywood and centering it on my wife's pottery wheel and just holding the 120-grit sandpaper against it! Regardless, the results you managed on the 066s are impressive.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I believe I remember that post now but couldn't find it using "044" to search.

subwoof
03-15-2008, 06:24 PM
And thought I found true love..

It was an 066 - and I used sandpaper on the search. You can remove the 044 shell without doing the diaphram removal.

The search function could use a MAJOR refinement...:)

sub

BMWCCA
03-15-2008, 06:33 PM
You can remove the 044 shell without doing the diaphram removal.Damn! That tidbit is worth the price of admission. I'm pulling one apart tonight!

Edit/Update: Took one apart. Too easy! (Are those screws supposed to be THAT loose?) A bath in the sink after and some Brasso on the screw heads; look like new. Now I'll probably never need them and the $55 I ended up paying for the pair (LH link/story here (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=9952)) will all have been for naught! Just kidding. I got them for back-ups since I have one-each pair of L112 and L150A. Thanks again. Sorry for the hijack.

subwoof
03-15-2008, 07:16 PM
Someday I will document all these tips and processes into a book and sell it. For now donations are gratefully accepted.

I just cleaned a pair of 044's for install in a pair of 18ti's so it was fresh. I also overhauled a pair of 035Ti's and whattabitch it was. That foam under the dome stuck like a mother and just would NOT let go. No wonder they didn't sound "right"...

WHY JBL used that kind of foam INSIDE of components is a mystery. Back in the PA days that foam would go to goo and drop in the gap on the E140 woofs and cause problems.

rant, rant...

There are JBL's all over this house...sooner or later the magnets are gonna suck a cessna out of the sky and there will be some explaining...

sub

scott fitlin
03-15-2008, 09:19 PM
They do, but taking out the center wedge requires first removing the outer horn and then removing the rear label which will reduce their value, but more importantly, unless you are very careful you will likely damage the diaphragm and may not be able to once again center it. There are no guide pins for the ring radiators. To remove the outer horn is straight forward and easy enough though.


Widgetbut, if you want to refinish them, YOU have to take the phase plug off as well.

I have done this, without damaging the diaphragm, BUT, I warn people it is a FRAGILE and CRITICAL piece, one slip, u need a NEW phragm.

IF I were refinishing the slot, I would want the Phase plug and horn flare to be an EXACT match in color tonality.

IF I WERE refinishing, I
and they were for home use, I wouldn't do the exact matte finish JBL did. I would use Dupont hot Hues, or House Of KOLORS custom automotive refinish paints, black, 3 stage paint, and many clear coats and make a TOTALLY DESIGNER and KILLER CUSTOM BLACK SLOT TWEETER.

Just what I would do, no one has to agree with everything I think.

scott fitlin
03-15-2008, 09:23 PM
Make yourself a buffing wheel!

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.secondchancegarage.com/articles/images/buffingwheel/photo6.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/87.cfm&h=239&w=298&sz=14&hl=en&start=120&um=1&tbnid=j785XadpqbW5PM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbuffing%2Bwheel%26start%3D108%26ndsp% 3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

Take a 1/2 HP 1725rpm electric motor, and get a buffing wheel mandrel and a couple of 6" white cotton buffing and some buffing compund sticks.

You will surprised on how many things you will use it on!!!

Buff that aluminum up to a shine!!!! Like a Boeing 777!

Otherwise, try a green Scotchbrite pad and a LITTLE elbow grease. Not too much.

Scotty.know what else works?

WHEEL MAGIC for Aluminum rims. You take your bullets apart, put em in the sink, spray them, horn flare and phase plug, let them sit for 2 minutes, then rinse them off, towel dry, and then buffing wheel for even better results, AND YOU GOT SHINY NEW BULLETS! And IF you go to the trouble of a buffing wheel, you might as well use some Mothers Aluminum Polish too!



I have done this.
:)

edgewound
03-15-2008, 10:46 PM
IF I WERE refinishing, I
and they were for home use, I wouldn't do the exact matte finish JBL did. I would use Dupont hot Hues, or House Of KOLORS custom automotive refinish paints, black, 3 stage paint, and many clear coats and make a TOTALLY DESIGNER and KILLER CUSTOM BLACK SLOT TWEETER.


Sounds like a case of "pimp my slot":hmm:.

As far as using Scotchbrite pads vs. steelwool...if the magnet is separated from the horn there is no worries about magnetic attraction because you're gonna keep the magnet way away from any debris from the horn cleaning.

If the aim is to make these look like new again, you need to strip all the old finish off and re-primer so you end up with a smooth, scratch and blemish free new finish.

This really isn't rocket science. You disassemble carefully, strip, clean, primer and paint, dry for a day or two...reassemble....listen...admire.

scott fitlin
03-15-2008, 11:24 PM
When you see the pics of my newly repainted bumper cars, PIMP they ain't, class they have. The true blue pearl, Candy Apple red, and Irridescent Posie purple is vibrant, lit up, but not garish like a 1960,s or 70,s cheesey, tacky metal flake was.

I do have this one car, we got in 1982, soli,s pantera model, we only have one, and in Low Rider magazine, I saw a guy with his restored 1970 Buick Riviera, and he painted it Candy Pearl Hot Pink, with White accenting, and I am doing the Pantera in this color, with snow white accenting, OK thats pimp, BLING BLAU!

I am partial to blues, and I think the slot would look good like this. Jus my opinion.

The only thing I just don't agree with, is using spray paints from a consumer store can iof spray paint. The ONLY way to really get TOP FLIGHT RESULTS is with a GOOD spray gun, or airbrush. Granted, most of what makes the difference between an OK paint job, and a GREAT paint job is in the prep, but, then, even at this point, you may as well use better prep products than just scotchbrite. Dupont, and SEM offer cleaning agents to use once the surface has been stripped, to remove any contaminants and leave a completely clean surface ready to be primed, and well, just like a car, the slot is metal, and proper prep does make a big difference.

BTW, I passed NYC Inspection with flying col,ors, and NOW I am past my grueling winter work, OH what a relief, I bought a digital cam, I am goin g to post pics of the place, my system, my shop, etc.

I opened up today, 1st day and went well.


:bouncy:

Oh, now I have to redo lightshow, DAYUM, my work never ends! :banghead:

subwoof
03-16-2008, 10:24 AM
My "simple" non-pimp method assumes that the phase plug didn't get scratched ( they rarely do ) so all the extra work isn't needed. Just wiping them off with some mild cleaner is sufficient.

So leave the foilcal, phaseplug, magnet, worry and just reface the horn fronts.

But on the subject of "pimping", I have a pile of older bullet horns that I will turn into slot horns by adding solid acrylic ( the bug-in-a-paperweight stuff ) and maybe I will embed a handful of surface mount LED's of different colors first.

Then I can have an up-to-date color organ while I hear the 4345 clones stomp the house...:)

ooh ooh ooh ooh stayin' alive

SMKSoundPro
03-16-2008, 01:39 PM
But on the subject of "pimping", I have a pile of older bullet horns that I will turn into slot horns by adding solid acrylic ( the bug-in-a-paperweight stuff ) and maybe I will embed a handful of surface mount LED's of different colors first.
HEY!!!!!!

That was MY idea!!!!!!