hjames
09-30-2007, 04:06 PM
One of the reasons we got a deal on those 4341s was that the UHF Lpad was faulty. For whatever reason the previous owner never got around to fixing that - he just skipped it and wired them up as 3 ways, (and put them back to 4way config for me for the sale).
Anyway, about a month or so back I got the replacement pots from Parts Express (#260-255) - 50watt 8 ohm (probably overkill, but they fit ok) but I'd been putting it off ... until today. I figured I'd get it out of the way before Winter.
Basic tips apply - remove the gills (I have none yet), and remove the lens from the horn.
I used a heat gun to warm the glue that hold the front panel foilcal on, then slip a putty knife under it and slide it down the face to gently peel the foilcal off the baffleboard. This reveals the 8 black countersunk phillips-head screws that hold the Lpad panel in place. Once the screws are removed, you can lay the cabinet face down to access the rear panel.
Tip from Bo - be sure to put something on the floor before you lay the speaker down to give room for handholds when you lift afterwards.
I stack some strips of pink building foam on the floor to "catch" the top edge of the baffleboard, and it'll never scratch the wood.
The 4341s have an upper rear access panel so I remove the long screws that hold it in place, put the panel aside rear. Once thats down I pull out some of the excess sound insulation so I have room to work. I put it in a plastic bag.The panel can lift part of the way out.
Hopefully you printed the crossover schematic before you started (!) - but its pretty much just switch wire for wire and solder neatly.
As you can see, the 50 watt pad did fit just fine.
Anyway, about a month or so back I got the replacement pots from Parts Express (#260-255) - 50watt 8 ohm (probably overkill, but they fit ok) but I'd been putting it off ... until today. I figured I'd get it out of the way before Winter.
Basic tips apply - remove the gills (I have none yet), and remove the lens from the horn.
I used a heat gun to warm the glue that hold the front panel foilcal on, then slip a putty knife under it and slide it down the face to gently peel the foilcal off the baffleboard. This reveals the 8 black countersunk phillips-head screws that hold the Lpad panel in place. Once the screws are removed, you can lay the cabinet face down to access the rear panel.
Tip from Bo - be sure to put something on the floor before you lay the speaker down to give room for handholds when you lift afterwards.
I stack some strips of pink building foam on the floor to "catch" the top edge of the baffleboard, and it'll never scratch the wood.
The 4341s have an upper rear access panel so I remove the long screws that hold it in place, put the panel aside rear. Once thats down I pull out some of the excess sound insulation so I have room to work. I put it in a plastic bag.The panel can lift part of the way out.
Hopefully you printed the crossover schematic before you started (!) - but its pretty much just switch wire for wire and solder neatly.
As you can see, the 50 watt pad did fit just fine.