sealing particle board front prior to repaint

[lgvenable]

I have a 4312 which I stripped (the speaker front) to the particle board prior to a re-paint with a fast drying satin black (like a fast drying Krylon).

My question is this: what has everyone used to seal the particle board prior to the satin black repaint. It seems like it might take many layers to get the right coverage over the raw particle board; and that a seal coat prior to repainting is advisable.

Can anyone give me a good lead here?

I did a search of course, but did not see any threads addressing this exact issue.

Larry

[SMKSoundPro]

Are you talking about filling in the "pores" of the partticle board?

If so, I use an exterior grade putty or filler for woodwork. You know, the same stuff you fill in the nail holes after putting up casing trim, or crown moulding.

In the pro-speaker cabinet shop I worked in for many years, we used bondo. Mix a batch, trowel it on with a plastic spreader, drink anything alacoholic and watch it dry. Then when thoroughly drunk, sand said bondo'ed cab with a belt sander until all traces of bondo were gone.

As the Admiral tells me, submarine building 101: "measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an ax, hammer to fit, paint to match."

Use any pore-filling stuff, like bondo, sand until smooth, paint to match.

When all else fails...use extravagant grill cloth! A little bit of gold lame' covers a multitude of sins. And if you worked where I do, running sound for drag shows on friday nights, you would completely understand!

Submitted with some tongue in cheek,

Scotty.

[lgvenable]

Followed your advise!

I used the walnut wood filler I have seen used (in other threads to fill the veneer) and I have on hand in large quantities. After using a putty knife to scrape it on and off, I sanded with 320 grit, and got a great surface. I finished with semi-gloss black fast dry from Krylon, and now the 4312 enclosure front is perfect again.

Thanks!