LX-10 part

[RetreatWI]

I have a pair of LX-10 dividing networks. The HF on one doesn't work. I took it apart and found this rather foul looking component. I don't know much about electronics, but, I believe it has leaked and is no good.

Does anybody know if this can be repaired or where to get a part that will work?

thank you

[Zilch]

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Network%20Schematics/LX10.pdf

There's nothing in it to leak. It was leaked ON, or environmentally assaulted.... :yes:

Suitable substitutes (Jantzen air core) are available from Parts Express. I'd rebuild completely. You'll have to use the 15W L-Pads for them to fit physically, I believe....

[RetreatWI]

I'll look if I can see if anything could have leaked on it. Do you know if parts are available?

thanks again

[grumpy]

unless it shorted, that component (L1, 0.9mH) probably isn't your (main)
problem... I'd look at the capacitor (C1, 12 uF) and the L-pad (R3) as
more likely candidates if you can verify the driver isn't dead itself.

-grumpy

[RetreatWI]

I'll take a look at the parts you mentioned but I don't know what I am looking for. I assumed that the L1 part was bad since it looked very different that the good one in the other dividing network.

I can verify the driver is not dead.

[Zilch]

I'd rebuild the crossovers completely. Here's a PE parts list:

2 ea. 004-5.1 Resistor, 5.1 Ohms
2 ea. 004-7.5 Resistor, 7.5 Ohms
2 ea. 260-248 L-Pad, 8 Ohms
2 ea. 255-046 Inductor, 0.9 mH
2 ea. 027-430 Capacitor, 12 uF

Disassemble entirely and install new hardware, which is likely corroded. Don't lose the little stepped insulating washers on the terminals.

[Not responsible for accuracy of the above. Confirm all part numbers and dimensions to fit.]

[grumpy]

I'd rebuild the crossovers completely.

heh... yeah, but what fun is that? :D

R3 is the knob thing (variable resistor to make volume changes on tweeter)...
other resistors probably look like little concrete blocks with printed values
(or small cylinders with thin colored bands to indicate value). Capacitor (C1)
might look like a cardboard tube with junk in the end and two wires coming out...
or a fatter cylinder than the resistors... -could- be marked with value like
.012... or 12...

any test equipment? ohm meter? take more pictures and we can point 'em out
(and for posterity)

[Zilch]

My first suspect would be corroded terminal hardware, then the L-Pad, actually, from the condition of the inductor.... :yes:

[azzd]

I know this thread is old. Just want to know whether the one list on https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/l-pads-attenuators/fostex-r80b-100w-l-pad/ is better than the Parts Express one. Any suggestion is appreciated.


http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Network%20Schematics/LX10.pdf

There's nothing in it to leak. It was leaked ON, or environmentally assaulted.... :yes:

Suitable substitutes (Jantzen air core) are available from Parts Express. I'd rebuild completely. You'll have to use the 15W L-Pads for them to fit physically, I believe....

[Joseph Smith Jr]

I know this thread is old. Just want to know whether the one list on https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/l-pads-attenuators/fostex-r80b-100w-l-pad/ is better than the Parts Express one. Any suggestion is appreciated.
Drop Fostex and email and ask them where the pad is manufactured, if it's made in china then the answer is no, if it's made in Japan then the answer is yes, my opinion, or you could ask Madisound

Parts like these are generally supplied by a handful of build to order OES and OEM manufacturers

Many times, on parts like these with specific branding the only thing about it any different from what the other guy is selling is the branding, in this case the face piece with "FOSTEX" written on it and the pr$ce

That being said, Fostex makes some mighty fine stuff and the build quality going by the photo looks to be very good but the hardware screams chinese

Plus, look directly below the one you linked to, the $9 dollar and change one looks suspiciously the same sans the name "FOSTEX" printed on it, huh? Like maybe the identical part other than the knob style and it's a different wattage rating?
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/l-pads-attenuators/yung-lp50-3/4-50w-8-ohm-l-pad/

http://www.california-webbusiness.com/company-yung-international-america_16475

https://www.directory.dnb.com/profiles/en/E-YUNG-ENTERPRISE-CO-LTD-3807.html

Everything to everybody:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Yung+International+America+electroni cs

[azzd]

Thank you so much, Joseph! In this case, I will keep on using the ones from Parts Express I bought years ago.


Drop Fostex and email and ask them where the pad is manufactured, if it's made in china then the answer is no, if it's made in Japan them the answer is yes, my opinion, or you could ask Madisound

Parts like these are generally supplied by a handful of build to order OES and OEM manufacturers

Many times, on parts like these with specific branding the only thing about it any different from what the other guy is selling is the branding, in this case the face piece with "FOSTEX" written on it and the pr$ce

That being said, Fostex makes some mighty fine stuff and the build quality going by the photo looks to be very good but the hardware screams chinese

Plus, look directly below the one you linked to, the $9 dollar and change one looks suspiciously the same sans the name "FOSTEX" printed on it, huh? Like maybe the identical part other than the knob style and it's a different wattage rating?
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/l-pads-attenuators/yung-lp50-3/4-50w-8-ohm-l-pad/

http://www.california-webbusiness.com/company-yung-international-america_16475

https://www.directory.dnb.com/profiles/en/E-YUNG-ENTERPRISE-CO-LTD-3807.html

Everything to everybody:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Yung+International+America+electroni cs

[Joseph Smith Jr]

I know this thread is old. Just want to know whether the one list on https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/l-pads-attenuators/fostex-r80b-100w-l-pad/ is better than the Parts Express one. Any suggestion is appreciated.
I should have asked, better in what way? Sonically or build quality? Not that it matters

As for the later, asked and answered and as for the former, well, I don't think I've yet to read any "which L-pad sounds best" flaming threads like the ones on cables and wire and such, at least not here anyway
As for the former, I think it's sort of one in the same as long as it is what it says it is ratings wise and is well made enough not to have drop outs or the wobbles sort of thing

I do like them to be well made enough and of consistent enough quality to be fairly well matched, from example to example, tracking wise, so you can install pairs that are reasonably close, and even that is a purely cosmetic thing in a lot of rooms

An L-pad is still another device in the signal path that I hate the sometimes necessity of, but sometimes you just need it to solve problems or add flexibility

I doubt there is any (much) difference sonically anyway unless you get into your very specifically made, vintage no longer made wirewound rheostat type stuff, if you get right down to it there should be no sound

Sorry to be over analyzing L-pads

Do the older examples you have look like those in that photo you linked to? I am just curious as to why you selected that particular example, random?