PDA

View Full Version : 4311B Troubleshooting - Where should I start?



WifesPissed
06-19-2007, 03:56 PM
SO I picked up a pair of 4311Bs for a song. The drivers look great but only one speaker works and the one working one is obviously not firing on all cylinders.

Any suggestions appreciated!!!

edgewound
06-19-2007, 04:19 PM
SO I picked up a pair of 4311Bs for a song. The drivers look great but only one speaker works and the one working one is obviously not firing on all cylinders.

Any suggestions appreciated!!!

Must've been some song....Listen before you buy...;):p.

Seriously, though. I'd bet all the drivers are blown and need reconing. The cost will be around $850.00 to do all the drivers. That doesn't include new L-pads if they need replacing. 4311's tend to take a pounding in studios....or home systems. You'll still be hard pressed to find such well built speakers for the price of the repairs...and they'd be basically new again. Sometimes you'll luck out and the L-pads sacrificed themselves before the mids and tweeters burned up from an overdriven, underpowered amp.

Depending on your skill level, you'll need to test all the drivers individually....then go from there...then depending on what you discover....refer to your moniker.

jim campbell
06-19-2007, 06:47 PM
check all the simple stuff first..............connections etc.........dont forget to reverse channels on your amps etc as there may be a bad connection there

WifesPissed
06-20-2007, 01:14 PM
Thanks, what are the L Pads? The pots on the front? I was going to take the drivers out and give them a resistance test and hit them with a 1.5V battery. How do I test the L Pads?

edgewound
06-20-2007, 01:18 PM
Thanks, what are the L Pads? The pots on the front? I was going to take the drivers out and give them a resistance test and hit them with a 1.5V battery. How do I test the L Pads?

Yeah...the L-pads are the pots on front. If they're crunchy when you turn the knobs, they're fried(burned) and need to be replaced. Go to Home Depot or Lowes', Radio Shack, etc. and get an inexpensive volt-ohm meter to test the continuity of the components.

You can test the L-pads with an ohm-meter.

Removing the panel for the L-pads is very tricky without damaging it. The mounting screws are underneath the label. You'll need to carefully...repeat carefully... use a heat gun and a thin, wide blade putty knife to lift it off. Some are aluminum foilcals, later models use plastic labels.

Oops....duh...I just read your post again...you must already have an ohm-meter:o::)

WifesPissed
06-20-2007, 05:47 PM
Thanks Edgewound. Just out of curiosity, what is re-coning? Is that where the cone joins the coil and spider? If my battery test gives me a good "pop" on each driver are they OK?

edgewound
06-20-2007, 05:58 PM
Thanks Edgewound. Just out of curiosity, what is re-coning? Is that where the cone joins the coil and spider? If my battery test gives me a good "pop" on each driver are they OK?

You're welcome.:)

Reconing is simply a total rebuild of each driver, ideally with a new factory recone kit. In essence, the driver is new again, because all the moving parts are new. Sort of analogous to rebuilding an engine...only simpler;).

A good pop in each driver indicates that the voice coils are intact. To determine if the drivers are good to go, they should really be sweep tested at test voltage to check for any audible voice rubs, buzzes and compliance "ticks".

You can download a free sweep generator at www.linearteam.dk