What are these boxes

[gkbarnhart]

I just purchased some boxes without components and would like to restore to factory specs. They are stamped 11 on the back and are configured for two 15s, a horn and possibly two horns and two crossovers. The seller thought they were Appollo or Olmpus. Can anyone tell me what the correct components whould be? Thanks, GB

[louped garouv]

it would be an easier job if you were to post a pic or two....

[Zilch]

If they're dual 15s, one of those in each was a passive radiator, and they're not Apollo, rather Sovereign or Olympus, depending upon cabinet style. Fretwork grille would be Olympus. We'll need pics to be certain.

If they are what I assume they are, you will be investing an additional $1800 - $3000 in vintage components (depending upon the driver set) to restore these, but can load them with new components having better performance for about half that.

Where in CA are you?

[hjames]

I just purchased some boxes without components and would like to restore to factory specs. They are stamped 11 on the back and are configured for two 15s, a horn and possibly two horns and two crossovers. The seller thought they were Appollo or Olmpus. Can anyone tell me what the correct components whould be? Thanks, GB

Zilch has good suggestions - the bottom line is - what did you want to do with them?
Did you want to restore them and sell them as collectables?
Or were you interested in fixing them up to keep and listen to them?

No attitude or opinion, just saying that there are different paths to take depending on what your goal is - not everybody wants big old speakers in their music system.

[gkbarnhart]

:)\Hi Zilch The grills are missing but it was the fretwork type. The card inside the box says the model # is C50 does that help. I have quite and inventory of JBLs and was planning on using them in my music studio as playback monitors.



If they're dual 15s, one of those in each was a passive radiator, and they're not Apollo, rather Sovereign or Olympus, depending upon cabinet style. Fretwork grille would be Olympus. We'll need pics to be certain.

If they are what I assume they are, you will be investing an additional $1800 - $3000 in vintage components (depending upon the driver set) to restore these, but can load them with new components having better performance for about half that.

Where in CA are you?

[Zilch]

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17106

In empty 6 cuft cabs with cutouts for dual woofers, I might be considering alternative loads, tho.

Got any 2234s or 2235s? :hmm:

Tell us what a music studio is, please....

[gkbarnhart]

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17106

In empty 6 cuft cabs with cutouts for dual woofers, I might be considering alternative loads, tho.

Got any 2234s or 2235s? :hmm:

Tell us what a music studio is, please....
Hi Zilch:
I read all the info on the bulletin and thank you. I have four D130s, the LE85s,horns and lenses with LX5 crossovers. I looks likethe cabinet was also set up for another crossover and that slot or dome tweeters could also be installed. Don't know if they are really necessary or how to wire it.
My studio is in Ojai and I am a keyboard player. Thanks, GB

[Zilch]

So music studio is a music room in your home, not a commercial studio, as for instruction, and not a recording studio? And by "playback monitor," you mean for listening, not for recording, so you don't necessarily need full studio monitor performance from these, rather, keyboard sound reinforcement?

1) D130s are not going to provide the bass response you need. As you've read, Olympus originally came with LE15A woofers and passive radiators. 2234H or 2235H (more extended bass) would be the contemporary alternative:

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical%20Sheet/S607%20ts.pdf

You'll need to find the PR15 passive radiators, which occasionally show up on eBay, a new equivalent, or fabricate a ported blank to substitute for that position.

Using dual woofers in each is another alternative, but that'll take some expertise and/or experimentation to make work well.

2) LX5's 500 Hz crossover point is now considered too low for LE85 on the HL91 horn/lens. 800 Hz is better, but still not optimum, crossover model 3110 or equivalent.

3) The space for the second crossover allows for the addition of a UHF driver (tweeter) such as a ring radiator. The high-frequency response of LE85 is limited to ~14 kHz, and you'll likely find there is a cutout or pair of cutouts on the baffle to install 075/2402 or 077/2405, using N7000/3105 or N8000 crossover. Here's the frequency response of LE85 on HL91 without UHF augmentation, as I measured it last year:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=135642&postcount=34