View Full Version : Securing Ducts

02-01-2004, 02:22 PM
Anybody have suggestions on securing my 5" long, 4" diameter
PVC ducts to a front baffle?

I'm thinking a bead of hot glue from inside the cabinet.

But open to suggestions.


02-02-2004, 04:12 AM

I would put an extra support ring behind the baffle if the duct is very long.

Something like my crude drawing.


02-02-2004, 08:05 AM
I put a healty dose of "Houeshold Goop" in the opening and then swab it around the positioned duct. This stays pliant - does not get brittle. Works great...

Some of this was discussed on the E145 Thread, some time back...

02-02-2004, 08:51 AM
Goop is great stuff, unless you want to remove the port. Once that Goop is dried, you'll destroy the wood getting the port back out. It's one of the most tenacious glues for this purpose I've ever used.

If you want to make the port "semi-removable", I'd be inclined to use a couple screws, driven sideways, "inside-out" through the inside of the port, sideways into the baffle board, and using something like Elmers glue or Mortite (rope caulk) to seal it in. With this, you can remove the screws, then "pop" the port loose, if you want to change it. Once you decide to leave the port in there for good, then you can glue it in permanently as Bo suggested...


Mr. Widget
02-02-2004, 09:40 AM
I've always used silicone glue/caulk like GE silicone seal. Don't put it on the outside as it can't be painted, but it can be considered permanent or if you change your mind you can trim it off with a utility knife and remove the port. It works well for mounting crossover components to a board too.

02-03-2004, 03:00 AM
This is a method I settled on for securing ports made from plastic pipe.

Cut the circular hole with a plunge router and then use a sanding drum to create a "friction fit".
Smear a quantity of car body filler around the tubes end and push it almost flush with the front panel, remove the excess filler and form a fillet on the back of the baffel.
When the filler is hard sand the whole thing smooth, including the sligtly protruding tube, after painting it will look like a moulded piece.
This also solves the problem of how to make that perfect cut on the tube.

With some careful hammering you can remove them.

02-06-2004, 08:56 PM
You could probably pick up a 4" toilet flange.

02-07-2004, 04:48 PM
one could also adjust the router depth to less
than the baffle thickness for a nice look.


02-07-2004, 04:53 PM
view from outside...

Todd W. White
02-07-2004, 09:21 PM
In final tuning, I always like to be able to adjust the tube as needed.

Once I arrive at the "magic" length, I use fish glue and small flat-head tacks to hold the tube in place.

Fish glue is a very old type of glue that is reversable - others are not. So, if you ever want to undo your work, you CAN!

02-18-2004, 07:48 PM
the goops stuff works!!!!!!