A wet 2441 !

[jbl_man_uk]

Hi Guys,ok,does anyone know how to take the driver apart,(the iron pot/magnet assembly)as i have one here full of water (dont ask!:banghead: ),and i cant see how to get it out,u can hear some sloshing around inside the iron pot ........any help would be appreciated!
Ian. London.UK

[Robh3606]

I would pop the top, remove the diaphram and invert it. You should be able to get most of it out through the Voice Coil gap. Maybe try some filter paper to wick some more out. What ever's left should evaporate out. I don't know how you would protect the gap from rust?? Unless it's in the space betwen the magnet and the throat??? Is the throat cracked??? Not sure it that will work???

Good Luck

Rob:)

[jbl_man_uk]

yes,thanks Rob,i have taken the diaphramm out and dried all that,but can hear water sloshing inside the pot,behind the pole-plate if i shake it.

[Mr. Widget]

If you can get a vacuum pump, one of these inexpensive desiccant chambers will do the trick. We use one here for our model shop and I once put my cell phone in the chamber after it went swimming... the chamber dried it out thoroughly and quickly and the phone survived beautifully.

http://www.tedpella.com/desiccat_html/vacpoly.htm


Widget

[Thom]

Barring a vacuum chamber, I would suggest alcohol. It will mix with the water and evaporate faster. Also I'd raise the temperature. Unfortunately I'm not sure how warm you can safely raise it. If your stove has a bread proofing compartment that shouldn't be to warm. I wish I knew whether you were safer spraying the inside with WD40 or taking your chances with rust. Myself I'd spray the WD40 all up in it because I think that will be easier to get rid of later than the rust you will probably get if you don't but that's a guess and I don't think I'd call it educated.
If you put alcohol in it, don't put it in a gas stove.
I just looked at those vacuum chambers. They're pretty cheap. Anyone who does AC work will have a vacuum pump.

[subwoof]

Had the same thing happen to a number of 2440's that were outside mounted ( and poorly )...hovever the internal rust flakes might come back to wreck the driver anyways...

The area where the water sits is not vented or easy to access by any of the normal means - you have to actually drill a small hole in the top plate and invert it.

Remove the diaphram and clean + tape over the gap and the entire phase plug with GOOD, NEW electrical tape.

Measuring from the from the center, drill a hole about 1/2 inch outside the 6-32 holes that the dia mounts to - this is important so you don't hit the centering ring which is glued on in about 1/2 of the drivers.

Tap the hoe with a 10-32 tap (rack bolt ) and get every single teeny tiny piece of debris removed before you even think about reinstalling the diaphram.

Be sure to use a good oscillator to get proper alignment.

sub

[jbl_man_uk]

Yes,thanks for the input guys,i found this cutaway photo of a 375 which gives a good clue to where the internal pond would be!..so i think maybe the tiny-hole approach would be the best bet.

http://www.audioheritage.org/images/jbl/photos/drivers/375-xsect-crop.jpg

[Maron Horonzakz]

What ever you do, dont apply WD40 to that driver...That the dumbe,st thing you can do & the dumbe,st thing I ever heard...A hair dryer can be useful in quickly drying things out in the gap...The faster you dry things out the less chance things will corrode/rust..:biting:

[pelly3s]

if all else fails find someone with a degaussing machine and have them take the driver apart so it can be cleaned properly.... just make sure they know what they are doing when putting it back together

[johnaec]

...i have one here full of water (dont ask!:banghead: )'Sorry - now you've got us curious - what happened? :(

John

[jbl_man_uk]

Ok John,here`s the story....this driver belongs to a freind of mine,it was attached to a 2350 radial horn,and left pointing horn-mouth skyward in a leaky bus for a week after new-years eve before it could be retrived(transport difficulties i gather)....in the meantime the 2350 horn had acted a large "funnel" channeling all the rain water nicely into the driver........
http://uk.geocities.com/homers_web_page/dsc00018us9.jpg

[4313B]

Ok John,here`s the story....this driver belongs to a freind of mine,it was attached to a 2350 radial horn,and left pointing horn-mouth skyward in a leaky bus for a week after new-years eve before it could be retrived(transport difficulties i gather)....in the meantime the 2350 horn had acted a large "funnel" channeling all the rain water nicely into the driver........
I'd just stick a Radian diaphragm in it and use it. You aren't going to hear it sloshing around in a fixed installation.

[Maron Horonzakz]

Chuck it & find a clean 2450 driver.;)

[4313B]

Chuck it & find a clean 2450 driver.;)That'd be my first thought. Toss it into the heap destined for the scrap metal recycler. It's 30 pounds.

[Tim Rinkerman]

Back in the day, I used to strech a piece of thin plastic..(Food wrap) over the driver mouth between the driver and the horn,before I bolted the horn on. It's acoustically transparent, and you can fill a monitor horn full of, uh,...liquid..and do no damage. Check them every once and a while just to make sure they hadn't deteriorated...try it, works great! I'm sure I saved hundreds of dollars in monitor diaphragms....

[Thom]

What ever you do, dont apply WD40 to that driver...That the dumbe,st thing you can do & the dumbe,st thing I ever heard...A hair dryer can be useful in quickly drying things out in the gap...The faster you dry things out the less chance things will corrode/rust..:biting:

Chuck it & find a clean 2450 driver.
__________________
Maron Horonzak

Just curious what damage wd40 is going to do to the driver on the junk pile?
I didn't give the advice as expert and it is possible it would have made things more dificult but it had more chance of fixing it than yours and still left your option open.

[edgewound]

Chuck it & find a clean 2450 driver.
__________________
Maron Horonzak

Just curious what damage wd40 is going to do to the driver on the junk pile?
I didn't give the advice as expert and it is possible it would have made things more dificult but it had more chance of fixing it than yours and still left your option open.

It's a flash-fire hazard, you'll never get it completely out without taking the driver apart, and WD40 will attack the adhesives holding the voice coil to the diaphragm...

...but it will stop the rust.

[Maron Horonzakz]

Thanks EDGE...By the looks of his Photo I would have pitched it. Or cut it in half and used it as book ends.:D

[Thom]

I acknowledged from the get that I didn't know what problems it might cause and it looks as if it was a pretty poor choice but my point was in one breath "whatever you do don't put wd40 in it" (by the way wd40 isn't like silicon, it's not that hard to get rid of). And in the next breath "throw it away" I'm saying that using wd 40 gives you at least as much hope as throwing it away and it doesn't get in the way of throwing it away if that's still what you want to do. So under the circumstances that your going to throw it away as Myron says I don't think WD40 is a stupid idea at all. Under other circumstances, Edgewound, I'm certainly not going to say I know as much about the unit as you do. I don't So under other circumstances it may be a horrible choice. I don't know if anybody follows or cares I don't know why I have to chase things like this down to there last detail but I'm probably done with this one. If it had been Oh no don't put wd40 in it that's the dumbest thing I ever heard of followed by a plan to save it that would have been a totally different thing. As far as wd40 attacking the adhesives that hold the vc to the diaphragm, I never envisioned that being in the driver while this was taking place. Perhaps I missed something. I'm sure there are much more suited solvents for the job but I'm sure methylene chloride would easily get rid of the wd40 unless there is something (almost anything) in the driver for it to attack. Sometimes it works good to displace water also as it is heavier than water and you don't have to worry about getting it all out. Actually you have to try to keep the unit warm enough while the methylene chloride is evaporating that it doesn't condense water out of the air.

[Thom]

So if one has rust. Not been under water rust, but been in florida too long rust (it's a 2425) is it easier to wait for the right deal on another one than to try to clean it? (I guess that might be like been in the garage in SF to long)

[edgewound]

Thom...

Allow me to clairfy, please.

WD40 would be a fine substance to use to clean a wet, rusty 2440....or any other alnico pot driver for that matter...as long as the plan was to completely disassemble the unit, clean it thoroughly, get rid of the rust, and then clean it again with acetone or MEK to strip away the remaining WD40, then reassemble, realign the gap, recharge the magnet and install a fresh diaphragm. That would be the thorough restoration process. Is it worth it? Probably so....if you can do it.

WD40 is a penetrant that could conceivably get between the adhesives that hold the diaphragm together if some is left behind.

So...I just gave you the short answer in my previous post about the damage that you asked could occur, by leaving the WD40 in place. It's possible that I read more into it than I should've. I think you meant by stopping the rust with WD40 and leaving it sit...that would be fine....but you'd still have to get the water out, because rust never sleeps.

[Thom]

OK. My last question wasn't rhetorical. I have a pair of 2425's that came from Florida. I haven't opened them yet, but the VC terminals are open and from the looks of the outside I won't be surprised to find the leads eaten off the vc's and much corrosion/rust inside. A view down the horns wasn't real promising. I'll tackle anything I have a chance of winning, but I don't always win and I wondered what I was up against. I know I cant handle the mag part myself. I'm not sure if I could demag it or not but I don't have a chance of regauss. And probably without degauss you never get a gap clean. Had a speaker rebuilder, born in the business, once tell me he can clean the gap in a 130/140 with 300 psi air but this gap is probably a lot harder and I don't have 300psi any way. Thank you. When I get a good view if I see what I expect maybe I can chrome it and put it on the mantel. Just so I know, what would it cost to have what you described done. I'm always sitting down when I'm in front of my computer so it'll be OK. Oh yes. I wasn't putting forth the wd40 as anything but something to keep rust from ruining it while he was getting the watter out. Also said it might be the wrong answer but if it was mine that was the path I would choose. English seems so clumsy sometimes I wish I had the excuse of it being my second language. Or maybe it's just my English.

[Maron Horonzakz]

Maybe you can start back at third grade?;)