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lpd
12-13-2003, 01:30 PM
How many JBL pro monitor (43xx-44xx) users here use stands to lift themup. I have my JBL 4333's on top of 3 foot by three foot slabs of 4 inch granite, 3 inches from the ground. I'm just curious what lifting them a few more inches would do and if anyone else here has their speakers off the floor.

4313B
12-13-2003, 02:03 PM
I have my 4430's on 4" stands with spikes.

I always put the JBL bookshelf systems on stands since most of them don't care much for boundary reinforcement.

lpd
12-13-2003, 02:28 PM
I found that by lifting the cabs off of the floor ( I have horrible floors), it took some of the boom out of the bass. I still have some cancellation, but as I experiment I find different placement of furniture makes quite a difference. I might lift the speakers another 4-6 inches and see what happens.

Punch
12-13-2003, 06:31 PM
I have stands on my 4301 (low) and my 4406's (high).

locanti
12-14-2003, 03:19 AM
I have my 4333 on 2" stands with rubber damp(scothfill) between stands and enclosures.Not too boomy foor my taste.

AudioGeek
12-14-2003, 04:05 AM
My 4412 SM's are presently situated on file cabinets 28" high, with the speakers mounted horizontally - natch!

This is a temporary fix until I get the custom Sound Anchors stands built for them, or build stands myself. I'm shooting for a height of probably 31" for the stands, which will put the spot between the midrange and tweeter at approx. 38.25" high.

That should do it!

Ian Mackenzie
12-14-2003, 04:05 AM
I use 2 x 4inch wooden battens to lift the cabinets and more recently 2 inch casters. This seems to de couple the box from the floor and reduce bass overhang.

I aslo found the distance of the box to rear and side wall a major control factor of boundary loading and resulting room gain.

Ian

AudioGeek
12-14-2003, 04:11 AM
Get some spikes under that wood, Ian. Or between the wood risers and the cabs themselves.

locanti
12-14-2003, 04:21 AM
I don't agree with spikes

I lay a carpet in front of the 4333,there's a 3 feet(1meter) space behind and 2.2feet(0.8m) between enclosure and wall side(This wall is damped by 8"(20cm) of fiberglass behind a tight woven).

In this situation,Idon't need to elevate the 4333 too much.The bass is tight but deep and very clean :cool:

Ian Mackenzie
12-14-2003, 04:32 AM
I tried the spikes but it was a problem if I needed to move the cabinet, the casters are much better and box is right height for Tin ear.

Ian

locanti
12-14-2003, 04:37 AM
Is your bass sound better(less boomy) than when you put the enclosure away from the walls?:confused:

AudioGeek
12-14-2003, 04:47 AM
It was just a suggestion. Obviously, spikes don't always work best for everyone. There are a lot of variables...not to mention the convenience of casters, or not spiking at all.

I tried spiking a REL Stentor III once, and it subtracted from the overall response in not such a good way. So I went back to the regular feet.

locanti
12-14-2003, 04:57 AM
I tried spikes with little montors such as L16 or custom cabinet for Fostex driver(LA PETITE if you know it)and it works fine on 2' stands(Greek column in plaster or light concret!!!!!)and onwood stands(1.5 feet)but with big cabinet such as 4333 or ONKEN/JENSEN ,I never heard a difference with our without spikes!!!

4313B
12-14-2003, 05:49 AM
Originally posted by locanti
I don't agree with spikesI don't care! :p They were free, I used them. :) Six of them are mounted between two sheets of 3/4" novaply with steel washers countersunk into the bottom piece for the spikes to bite into. It's hardly anything special, although I will admit that the bass response is less "boomy" and the horns are at the right height for me so whatever...

Ian Mackenzie
12-14-2003, 07:29 PM
Here's maybe another topic for a new thread seeing as we stomped on the L100.

To spike or not to spike,

I see the K2 series used the principle of vibration sinking via the bass, no sure if they use spikes.

I have no idea how this works, but have found some decoupling does help eleviate the mid bass boom , but also attenuates the VLF area.

Any comments?

Ian

AudioGeek
12-14-2003, 09:02 PM
Sure, I'll take a stab at it...

I guess the 'prevailing wisdom' is that spiking helps to keep the cabs from vibrating along with the cones by sending unwanted vibes into the floor below. Ideally, you don't want the box material, or baskets, etc. to add anything to the output of the diaphram's themselves.

Same with a good turntable rig - you need to keep everything as much as possible from getting to that stylus through the platter, motor, plinth, base, and tonearm. Generally, the greater mass for a turntable, the better.

The principle would apply to any transducer (speaker, microphone, cartridge).

When it sounds like the VLF output from a spiked speaker is attenuated from what it was non-spiked, it would seem that the spikes are doing their job. You're just hearing your drivers without as much of the inaccurate enclosure "noise".